Got a broken chain stay.
Really want to keep this bike.
Can this be steel welded buy a bike mechanic with welding skills?
Do we do this to older vintage bikes when this happens?
I'll assume that this welding will make it perfectly structurally sound.
What is the history of these actions?
If anyone at Android reads this, make it so it warns you when you come back to your phone after it's idle, not while you are listening to music, I don't need to be forced to turn my volume back up cause you guys feel you need to force me to confirm i like the volume where it is set.
I set it like that cause that's where i want it at, you don't need to remind me like I'm a child.
ALSO: you can set it up where If I want to stop this altogether, for your liability (If this si why you are doing this) you can make sure someone reads the warning potential and they are prepared to skip the warnings, and you are off the hook cause I gave you multiple confirmations I'm ok with the risks associated with listening to my music at the volume I'm comfortable with.
People ridding there bikes for exercise have to pull their phone out of their pocket to confirm then raise the volume back up as they are riding, this is dangerous.
You need to fix this, it's not only extremely annoying and unnecessary, it's dangerous.
I can't stand this safety volume randomly lowering my volume when I'm biking and it randomly lowers the volume.
I searched for how to do it, and one thing said go into developer mode and turn off a Bluetooth control feature, it didn't work.
Is there a way I can disable the safety automatic randomly lowering the volume?
I have Sony headset with mic and pause and answer call button on the headset line (Sony MDREX110AP), I use it biking, i think I sweated in the mic thingy to much, in the last couple months it randomly turns the volume down to random levels stops randomly, this was happening very infrequently. now recently it's happen like every few minutes.
How can i disable the headset from controlling the volume?
And how can i stop the automatic lowering of volume at random times till you give it the ok for safety?
Thank you.
I want to winter ride in Canada, I'm going to re-grease with cold weather grease end of this fall for the winter riding, it gets to -15 sometimes -20.
I use re and tacky in the spring summer fall.
What is a good cheap brand that I can use to have the grease function properly in the cold runs?
Like 20$ish CAD for 16oz or something like this?
I found (WPL Absolute Bike Grease) so far, little concerned from the amazon photos of it looking super think.
Anyone winter ride and pack in winter grease that is not like 125$ for 3oz?
Thank you.
Bought new cones, I think a small flat head screwdriver, lightly pry around open to pop off?
What direction should I pry to, and pry from? (Is there a direction they come off)
Trying not to bend and wreck them for potential future use if need be.
And I think front wheel cones and symmetrical? I can use either on either side, why was one packaged up like this if it's the front and they are interchangeable?
Thank you.
So inner tubes get cut once a monthish, just discovered the 3, 3mm gashes.
AI is saying it can be booted with a boot, but says using galvanized inner tube patches are to weak, can push threw the tire gash (the patch can) over time and is not strong, I guess for support of the casing of the tire also???
Here's the question, can you boot the tire with 3mm gashes perminatly with Parks tool VP-1?
If no is there a perm fix? should I toss the tires?
Road tires Continental Ultra sports, oldish, casing obviously is compromised in said spots, but they are not on the sidewall, on the tread area.
Running at 80PSI.
They are far apart, two are opposite sides.
Lots of life in terms of tread wear indicator. this is why looking in to saving, lots of life left.
So do people boot these and still use them? are they safe with vulcanizing patches?
Boots are like 10$ each from parks tool, might as well consider buying new tires at that point. this tire is not that important for 30$ in boot fixes.
I can buy the galvanized inner tube patch box for 2$ and boot all three gashes with the inner tube patches.
Fill me in on the veterans experiences with perm booting tires on 80 PSI continental ultra sport road tires on the tread.
unsafe? not gonna work over time? or will be fine patching them and riding them till they wear naturally?
Started the BB clean out of the bike I bought recently.
The cup races look great, the axle has 2 corrosion spots, I rode this for the last 2 weeks and didn't feel it.
Can I ride it and the bearings get cooked as I look for a new axle at my local DIY bike shops?
Or throw my other BB-UN300 in there while I look for a clean axle?
It's Shimano 1.37 X 24 T (British) LH
Axle = Shimano 68 113 D-3H
The BB-UN300 is BC1.37 X 24 T, 68 TI, D-NL... This axle is a tiny bit longer.
Think the chain ring and front derailer can fit, but would need to assemble to be certain.
What is the plan guys?
Changed the bartape /chefskiss
Changed the brakes, the old ones the hoods were sliding around.
New pedals, taken apart, de greased re greased. KKT Pro VIC II.
Same saddle, still looking for the white vintage one.
New Shimano Hyperglide chain, with 14-28 Hyper Glide freewheel cassette.
Bio Pace Chain rings, pretty sure 52-42.
New wheels: 700c Tires: Continentals GP5K's.
The BB was BUTTER, had all my tools to do surgery on this BB and after I took the chain off to put on a Shimano Hyperglide chain on, I spin the pedals and they went on FOREVER. the BB is butter. Untouched from 1988.
Took it for a test ride zone 2, this thing is so solid, and it fits me better than my other two bikes, this one is a size bigger. I fit right in the cockpit like I was meant to be in there.
The center of gravity feels higher so I can sway a bit more than my other two bikes, but this is a none issue. bit it was interesting to feel that vs the lower center of gravity on the other two, definitely noticeable on turns, need to get use to it.
And will lower the neck to the reflective tape, forgot to do that, get that tomorrow.
There it is boys and girls, all gorgeous and ready to ride the shit out of it.
Do you think I should put a strip of tape on the end of the bar tape, like red?
Red orange yellow white could all work?
I was thinking a red strip would work? what say you?
Master link or rivet?
Is one more prone to separating at that link?
Is there one that is more locked in than the other under normal race cycling high watt bombs etc.
the Rivet seems like it would have less of a chance of separating, vs master link is just a easy more consumer market, ease of use for mass consumer base?
Is this the ticket? Rivet is perfectly fine and master link is for mass consumer ease of use for the avg cyclist? Stay with rivets for watt bombing racing?
What you all say?
So the tires are Bianchi labeled 27 1 1/8th tires.
Wheels are Ambrosia high pressure wheels (Brev N. 25791) with 1984 Suzue Sealed Bearing Hubs.
I think these hubs are sought after in NOS form?
And the Bianchi tire is a collectors item for someone wanting to display a vintage Binachi.
Anyone have insight on these 1984 Suzue LPF (Low profile flange) sealed bearings hubs?
(I FULLY clean my cases and the game disks after getting them home, they look brand new when I'm done cleaning them)
TTT, NFS-UG, and now these bad boys.
(I FULLY clean my cases and the game disks after getting them home, they look brand new when I'm done cleaning them)
So I finished up my PS3 Xbox 360 collections.
Discovered how great CRT's are for retro gaming.
Going to hunt a 20 inch down and I started collection games.
This is the first two to start the baby off.
Wish me luck, and chime in if you have advice for PS2 era games, connections to CRT's etc.
I got more games then this like COD series and Need for Speed series and many more.
But I think it's on to the CRT PS2 collecting now. the PS3 is done unless I rediscover something that comes up and I get interested in.
Congrats me. took a year, all games have manuals if they came with one, all disks scratch free, all games were 10$ CAD unless Premium game, and NFS HP 2005 was 10$ CAD, yes I know.
Good luck guys with your collections, hope this inspires you.
What glue melts the plastic together, or creates an equal plastic strength merge?
Or call it?
Google is giving me mix messages.
Super interested in finding these at any chain hardware box store. (Red washer)
Anyone know if these are common? colored washers in traditional bike washer/bolt/nut sizes?
Ok so my other older Aztec pad bolt broke out of the pad, swapped from my other bike I just got.
Those Aztec pads are so aggressive they can stop the back tire or endo from he front wheel. I lower the pressure of the front wheel (BRAKES) to avoid endos accidentally in an emergency.
So this new Shimano (low profile 60) pads are like i just added ABS to my wheels, I can't lose control of the back tire or the front won't endo when making full force contact.
You guys REALLY need to help me figure out this material and how to get brake pads like this, these things are so insane. absolutely incredible braking system with these pads.
Google says they were designed like this to lower wear on the rims, and not made since 1980's?
But little does google know there is an ABS system with them preventing tires from skidding or endoing* from your front wheel.
Let me know if you know the martial these pads use to create the brake from not locking up the tire on the road at max pressure.
Or where I can buy pads just like this.
I'm all over google and just looking for others to pop in and help if you can, and I think this information might be important to others to discover as I did, this ABS system adds so much safety from lose of control skidding, rim wear etc. get on this ^^^ kids.
This is HUGE!!!
Thank you.
Ok so my other older Aztec pad bolt broke out of the pad, swapped from my other bike I just got.
Those Aztec pads are so aggressive they can stop the back tire or endo from he front wheel. I lower the pressure of the front wheel to avoid endos accidentally in an emergency.
So this new Shimano (low profile 60) pads are like i just added ABS to my wheels, I can't lose control of the back tire or the front won't endo when making full force contact.
You guys REALLY need to help me figure out this material and how to get brake pads like this, these things are so insane. absolutely incredible braking system with these pads.
Google says they were designed like this to lower wear on the rims, and not made since 1980's?
But little does google know there is an ABS system with them preventing tires from skidding or endoing* from your front wheel.
Let me know if you know the martial these pads use to create the brake from not locking up the tire on the road at max pressure.
Or where I can buy pads just like this.
I'm all over google and just looking for others to pop in and help if you can, and I think this information might be important to others to discover as I did, this ABS system adds so much safety from lose of control skidding, rim wear etc. get on this ^^^ kids.
This is HUGE!!!
Thank you.
Someone post pictures of their CRT on an angle in a dark room close up of a video game to demonstrate the vibrant colors, white, black contrast and scanlines.
Where are all these super good CRT scanline p0rn pics?
I ride hard and fast and want Nylon based liner, no one makes them of course.
So what is the alternative for a 27 Inch wheel?
Trying to avoid electric and dict tape, and PVC cause it's more malleable.
Chime in and let me know your picks and can I get the 27 inch nylon liner?