u/l337g0g0

Bought new cones, I think a small flat head screwdriver, lightly pry around open to pop off?

What direction should I pry to, and pry from? (Is there a direction they come off)
Trying not to bend and wreck them for potential future use if need be.

And I think front wheel cones and symmetrical? I can use either on either side, why was one packaged up like this if it's the front and they are interchangeable?

Thank you.

Started the BB clean out of the bike I bought recently.

The cup races look great, the axle has 2 corrosion spots, I rode this for the last 2 weeks and didn't feel it.
Can I ride it and the bearings get cooked as I look for a new axle at my local DIY bike shops?

Or throw my other BB-UN300 in there while I look for a clean axle?

It's Shimano 1.37 X 24 T (British) LH
Axle = Shimano 68 113 D-3H

The BB-UN300 is BC1.37 X 24 T, 68 TI, D-NL... This axle is a tiny bit longer.
Think the chain ring and front derailer can fit, but would need to assemble to be certain.

What is the plan guys?

Changed the bartape /chefskiss
Changed the brakes, the old ones the hoods were sliding around.
New pedals, taken apart, de greased re greased. KKT Pro VIC II.
Same saddle, still looking for the white vintage one.
New Shimano Hyperglide chain, with 14-28 Hyper Glide freewheel cassette.
Bio Pace Chain rings, pretty sure 52-42.
New wheels: 700c Tires: Continentals GP5K's.
The BB was BUTTER, had all my tools to do surgery on this BB and after I took the chain off to put on a Shimano Hyperglide chain on, I spin the pedals and they went on FOREVER. the BB is butter. Untouched from 1988.

Took it for a test ride zone 2, this thing is so solid, and it fits me better than my other two bikes, this one is a size bigger. I fit right in the cockpit like I was meant to be in there.
The center of gravity feels higher so I can sway a bit more than my other two bikes, but this is a none issue. bit it was interesting to feel that vs the lower center of gravity on the other two, definitely noticeable on turns, need to get use to it.

And will lower the neck to the reflective tape, forgot to do that, get that tomorrow.

There it is boys and girls, all gorgeous and ready to ride the shit out of it.

Do you think I should put a strip of tape on the end of the bar tape, like red?
Red orange yellow white could all work?
I was thinking a red strip would work? what say you?

Master link or rivet?

Is one more prone to separating at that link?

Is there one that is more locked in than the other under normal race cycling high watt bombs etc.

the Rivet seems like it would have less of a chance of separating, vs master link is just a easy more consumer market, ease of use for mass consumer base?

Is this the ticket? Rivet is perfectly fine and master link is for mass consumer ease of use for the avg cyclist? Stay with rivets for watt bombing racing?

What you all say?

So the tires are Bianchi labeled 27 1 1/8th tires.
Wheels are Ambrosia high pressure wheels (Brev N. 25791) with 1984 Suzue Sealed Bearing Hubs.

I think these hubs are sought after in NOS form?
And the Bianchi tire is a collectors item for someone wanting to display a vintage Binachi.

Anyone have insight on these 1984 Suzue LPF (Low profile flange) sealed bearings hubs?

(I FULLY clean my cases and the game disks after getting them home, they look brand new when I'm done cleaning them)

TTT, NFS-UG, and now these bad boys.

(I FULLY clean my cases and the game disks after getting them home, they look brand new when I'm done cleaning them)

So I finished up my PS3 Xbox 360 collections.
Discovered how great CRT's are for retro gaming.
Going to hunt a 20 inch down and I started collection games.

This is the first two to start the baby off.

Wish me luck, and chime in if you have advice for PS2 era games, connections to CRT's etc.

I got more games then this like COD series and Need for Speed series and many more.

But I think it's on to the CRT PS2 collecting now. the PS3 is done unless I rediscover something that comes up and I get interested in.

Congrats me. took a year, all games have manuals if they came with one, all disks scratch free, all games were 10$ CAD unless Premium game, and NFS HP 2005 was 10$ CAD, yes I know.

Good luck guys with your collections, hope this inspires you.

What glue melts the plastic together, or creates an equal plastic strength merge?

Or call it?

Google is giving me mix messages.

Super interested in finding these at any chain hardware box store. (Red washer)

Anyone know if these are common? colored washers in traditional bike washer/bolt/nut sizes?

Ok so my other older Aztec pad bolt broke out of the pad, swapped from my other bike I just got.
Those Aztec pads are so aggressive they can stop the back tire or endo from he front wheel. I lower the pressure of the front wheel (BRAKES) to avoid endos accidentally in an emergency.

So this new Shimano (low profile 60) pads are like i just added ABS to my wheels, I can't lose control of the back tire or the front won't endo when making full force contact.

You guys REALLY need to help me figure out this material and how to get brake pads like this, these things are so insane. absolutely incredible braking system with these pads.

Google says they were designed like this to lower wear on the rims, and not made since 1980's?
But little does google know there is an ABS system with them preventing tires from skidding or endoing* from your front wheel.

Let me know if you know the martial these pads use to create the brake from not locking up the tire on the road at max pressure.
Or where I can buy pads just like this.
I'm all over google and just looking for others to pop in and help if you can, and I think this information might be important to others to discover as I did, this ABS system adds so much safety from lose of control skidding, rim wear etc. get on this ^^^ kids.
This is HUGE!!!

Thank you.

Ok so my other older Aztec pad bolt broke out of the pad, swapped from my other bike I just got.
Those Aztec pads are so aggressive they can stop the back tire or endo from he front wheel. I lower the pressure of the front wheel to avoid endos accidentally in an emergency.

So this new Shimano (low profile 60) pads are like i just added ABS to my wheels, I can't lose control of the back tire or the front won't endo when making full force contact.

You guys REALLY need to help me figure out this material and how to get brake pads like this, these things are so insane. absolutely incredible braking system with these pads.

Google says they were designed like this to lower wear on the rims, and not made since 1980's?
But little does google know there is an ABS system with them preventing tires from skidding or endoing* from your front wheel.

Let me know if you know the martial these pads use to create the brake from not locking up the tire on the road at max pressure.
Or where I can buy pads just like this.
I'm all over google and just looking for others to pop in and help if you can, and I think this information might be important to others to discover as I did, this ABS system adds so much safety from lose of control skidding, rim wear etc. get on this ^^^ kids.
This is HUGE!!!

Thank you.

So grease the bearings BUT use oil on the Pawls?
Someone said that grease is to think and can lock them up or make them not fall back into place as fast etc.

And I have 5 washers, they get thicker each one.
I assume you put them in order of thickness, but what direction does the thickest one go?

Tearing the bike down to clean it up and get it road worthy.
De taping the handle bars these two plastic things on either side were on the brake lines.

Those brake line plastic thingys?

What are they called and what is there purpose?

Thank you.

EDIT:
I think I solved it thinking about it after I posted it.
It's so you can move the cable under the tape, the tape will trap the brake line, so this allows it to move so you can do maintenance and not have to remove the tape just to move the brake line around to maneuver brakes etc?

So this valve worked to home from he train station (lucky me) (didn't go fast, new purchase)
But I needed to add some air pressure both tires and the thing sprung a leak, probably rubbing as inflating?
But how is this a thing? it was bulging and sprung a leak just trying to inflate them.
Back inflated fine but still need new tubes as you see, and front sprung inflating is now not inflatable.

And what is this tire size, google says 1970's tire.
Do I just throw a 27 1 1/4 inner-tube in it? << do tubes matter at these sizes? as long as you have the right MM size?
Can it use 700C tubes that are 25+MM designed for?
And info on this tire wheel tubes etc feel free to enlighten me plz and ty.

EDIT: and how are these 1970's tires and wheels and look like this???? this wasn't used more than a few rides?!?!?
Look at the rim lines. O.o