
How do I remove this pin on my bracelet?
I need to keep the signed clasp, and this side isn't quick release, how do I remove the pin and resuse it for another bracelet? Thank you

I need to keep the signed clasp, and this side isn't quick release, how do I remove the pin and resuse it for another bracelet? Thank you
These two characters are way too alike. Do people make mistakes when reading or writing them?
I bought a Casio w800hd and it came with a folded link bracelet. It was my first folded link bracelet, before I had only had solid link bracelets, even for a low price mall brand watch. I at first didn't like the folded link bracelet, but after a week I took a closer look and it is solidly built (but maybe it might stretch a bit in the future, due to the design of the link connections) and I don't mind the lighter weight over a solid link bracelet
I was thinking can a folded link bracelet be good? l recaIl back then Rolex used folded link bracelets and those were decent (or were they not?) and if it was good enough for rolex then perhaps folded links bracelets are not as bad as other people say they are? I have been itching to upgrade my casio to a solid link bracelet, but should I just keep this folded link one instead?
The above is my casio digital watch, and the soldering kit that I have.
As for what I am trying to do, look at point 1, there is a blob of solder, I need to make point 2 look like that. the reason is that a blob of solder at point 2 will change a setting on the watch to what I want.
Do I have all the tools needed in that kit or do I need to buy more stuff?
I have zero soldering experience, will I be able to do the job on the first try?
Or should I buy like a $10 conductive pen and fill in that circle at 2?
Or if I pay someone to solder a blob, how much do you think it would cost in a city like Toronto, Canada?
Thank you
edit. I just checked and it appears my kit doesn't come with any flux, is that important for this job?
To enable the timer, I had to remove a small drop of solder in the top right corner. It took much longer than expected because I didn’t have soldering braid or flux. Instead, I used a razor blade to carefully scrape away the soft solder after I heated it up. It worked, and now my new watch has the hidden timer feature enabled!
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The watch itself looks great, and the size is spot-on, finally something that doesn’t fall into the trend of those oversized, chunky diver watches that just look clumsy on the wrist.
But once you dig a little deeper, the bracelet really lets it down. There are no half links and no proper micro-adjust system, just a basic diver’s extension that’s supposed to act as a workaround for fine sizing. The problem is, it doesn’t do that well at all. Visually, it looks awkward, with that noticeable metal stretch and gap that makes the whole thing feel cheap.
That last photo makes it even worse, you can clearly see how it sits when your wrist is resting, and it’s not a good look.
If you’re going to include a diver’s extension, at least execute it properly, Rolex does this well on the Submariner. Otherwise, just stick with half links like Grand Seiko. There are proven solutions out there.
Instead, what we get is a genuinely nice watch paired with a half-baked bracelet.
Thanks, Seiko. What can be done?