u/ajw2285

Out of warranty keyboard for RAZR. I dropped my phone and the keyboard came apart. Looks like heat inserts were used with screws under the texture back but the plastic recesses for the heat inserts are all damaged, and one heat insert is gone all together. Any suggestions for reassembling? Super glue and jam it together?

Hi Nissan Frontier friends,

I have a 2011 SV 4x4 with 150k miles. It has lived in the midwest it's whole life and it would be an understatement to say I have some rust on the bottom of my truck.

I was was driving the other day and my brake pedal started to get soft, but it would still maintain pressure and brake. I added fluid thinking it was low and then noticed small drops of brake fluid on the ground.

I spent 15 minutes inspecting the truck and found that the passenger side hard brake line, the smaller one, was leaking and spraying / dribbling out brake fluid. It appears that the brake line had corroded apart at the upstream joint.

I researched online and found OEM pre fabricated brake hard lines 46240-EA001 for passenger side and also 46242-EA001 for drivers side. I thought it would be a good idea to replace both at the same time. They were both $8.70 ea from nissan parts deal . com + shipping; total ~$29.

The parts showed up and I began the process of replacing the brake lines. I put my hand on the passenger side brake line and it basically snapped apart at the upper fitting. I messed around with trying to remove the corroded upper fitting, but it eventually required hitting it with a 10 mm impact socket and my Ryobi 18v 1/2" impact on max speed. The other fitting I was able to do with a 10 mm wrench (I have open end wrenches but they are standard size and I needed metric oh well.) The passneger side took me about an hour after messing around, trying to figure out what to do, trips to the toolbox, etc. The drivers side took me 10 minutes after knowing what to do.

If you live in a corrosion area, I would suggest you inspect your hard brake lines for corrosion and replace these as preventative maintenance so you aren't all of a sudden without your brakes.

Sorry, I don't have a great picture of the corroded fitting but it looks like a brake line with a 10 mm fitting and is rusty.

Moved into a new house. Slowly chipping away at extreme energy usage. Finally got around to cleaning the AC condensers outside and found years and years of dirt + buildup. If you haven't cleaned your condensers in a while, here is your reminder to do it.

Hi All,

I am not an HVAC or Refrigeration tech, just a regular non-technical person.

I bought a house and the previous owners left a 3 door Everest ESR3 commercial grade refrigerator in the garage.

I didn't pay much attention to it during showings, inspection, walkthrough as figured they would take it but they asked us if we wanted it at the last minute and i figured why not, could be useful for parties etc.

After moving in I noticed that the left side evaporator was frozen solid, to the point that it had popped the evaporator cover off. Fans/motors frozen.

I left the unit completely defrost in the 100F heat in the past month.

Did some troubleshooting and figured out that the evap fans had both died and thus not getting air across the evap and thus the freezing over.

I then started it back up but with a battery fan on the evap and the refrigerator performed great.

I started looking online for parts; Replacement evap motors could be found online from various retailers for $150 - $200, each, and I needed two and was going to buy an extra to keep as spare.

After researching the part number and trying to cross reference parts to less expensive variants, I learned these are just small AC motors and are *somewhat* generic. Ghe OEM motor part is listed as AC 110v, reversable rotation and 3000 rpm

In my research, I found a 'Universal' evap fan motor kit for sale on Lowes website: The SUPCO Universal Evaporator Fan Motor Kit SM999. The dimensions seemed to be close enough.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/SUPCO-Universal-Evaporator-Fan-Motor-Black/1002465322

It was for sale for $13 ea and if I bought 2 I would get free shipping, so for $26 i figured what the heck.

Long story short, they work great. I had to perform some modifications like drilling the fans a bit, drilling through the protective cover because i wasn't too confident trimming the shafts even though the instructions tell you do do so.

I cut the wires, removed the old motors, I switched over the mounting brackets, reinstalled motors, wire nutted the wire connections and tucked away wires with zip ties, reinstalled all the other things and fired up the refrigerator and everything worked great!

I immediately bought 3 more evaporator motor kits for $13 ea, again, as spares.

So, i guess a lot of these evaporator motors are interchangeable you just need to pay attention to voltage, rpm, direction and shaft size

I hope that this helps someone else out there.

Went to power the robot up today and just getting the 3 blue LEDs blinking rapidly and the power button or select button doesnt do anything. PN 9995672. I can't post videos but I'd say the 3 LEDs blink 5 times per second. Anyone ever seen this before?

This was sitting in my draft folder for 4+ years so finally getting around to sending it.

I'm getting into Sim Racing & Sim Drifting

I purchased a Logitech G920 setup to try to use with Assetto Corsa for racing and drifting. Using a steam link to use huge TV.

For whatever reason, Assetto wouldn't support passing through USB game controllers from the client to the server.

I investigated VirtualHere and did get it working between a W10 client and my W10 Steam server, but VirtualHere is limited to 1 USB device, so if you just want to use a steering wheel / pedals / shifter, use VirtualHere, but if you want to use a usb hand brake, you either need to pony up the $50 (per client I believe) or find another solution.

I went down the 'find another solution' path, as I'd like to get a folding stand set up that I can just plug in around the house at my various Steam clients for fun.

I found USBIP, a piece of software that has been floating around for a while with developers hopping in and out to support it over the past decade+. It essentialy does the same thing as VirtualHere, just with a bit more DIY flair. It is built into linux and 'just works' in linux, but there is a windows implementation of it here: https://github.com/cezanne/usbip-win It requires some janky rigging and is what I ended up using in my solution.

The windows implementation has both a client and a server (USBIP server configuration goes on your Steam client, USBIP client configuration goes on your Steam server)

For whatever reason, I could not get the Ghub drivers to recognize the G920 on my Steam client with testsigning on. I spent a good amount of time playing around with this and eventually came up with a different idea. This different idea also supports playing the game on my Steam Links at TVs versus just the one Windows based Steam client.

I dug out a Rock64 I had laying around and started playing with it. It had a 4.2 kernel based Ubuntu distro on it. I configured the distro supplied USBIP software and the distro couldn't recognize the steering wheel outside of XBOX mode; it needed to be 'switched' to PC mode.

To switch the usb mode, you need to install the usb-modeswitch package and configure a few things.

I then followed this page: https://www.draisberghof.de/usb_modeswitch/bb/viewtopic.php?t=2510 as to what to change.

It all worked great together. You could power the Rock64 with a battery and use wifi for network communications and have a truly 'portable' sim racing setup.

Thanks for coming to my ted talk.

Yes, your secondary packaging looks like shit. Yes a 1/4" variation at the flap seam is within spec because that is what you agreed to with your coproducer and no there is nothing you can do about it. Thank you for your attention to this matter.