u/alexgorzelak

Thanks to the community here at RepTime I decided to order this beautiful watch. However, this is the first movement that arrived with a mechanical problem. I throw it on a timegrapher and only in the dial-down position I get an abnormal beat error of around 3.0ms that sometimes jumps even into 6.0ms territory. In every other position the watch gives an OK reading. Have you ever run into such issue? I immediately left it with a local watchsmith for a diagnosis for which I need to wait for 4 weeks due to a long queue. An example reading attached.

Is it common to receive this watch with potential hairspring/pivot/jewel issue in such a thin movement?

The cardboard box had a sign of strong hit in the corner so it was handled roughly in transit.

Thanks to the community here at RepTime I decided to order this beautiful watch. However, this is the first movement that arrived with a mechanical problem. I throw it on a timegrapher and only in the dial-down position I get an abnormal beat error of around 3.0ms that sometimes jumps even into 6.0ms territory. In every other position the watch gives an OK reading. Have you ever run into such issue? I immediately left it with a local watchsmith for a diagnosis for which I need to wait for 4 weeks due to a long queue. An example reading attached.

Is it common to receive this watch with potential hairspring/pivot/jewel issue in such a thin movement?

The cardboard box had a sign of strong hit in the corner so it was handled roughly in transit.

I noticed my Seamaster getting fast around +34s/day to max +90s/day when on the wrist after full wind. As soon as I put it down it normalises and gets back to measuring time accurately. I suspected rebounding from kinetic energy of the wrist while fully wound in the post I wrote after noticing this issue HERE [LINK]

I throw it on the timegrapher and my readings from 6 positions indicate abnormally high amplitude. What are my next steps in diagnosing the issue? Could it be the A8800 movement coming bare dry from factory or should I also look elsewhere for a conclusion?

(attaching the timegrapher readings, to indicate watch position on each picture I used a little bronze figure in the bottom of the timegrapher)

POSITION	RATE [s/d]	AMPL [°]	B.E. [ms]
CH (DU)	3,7	345	0,0
CB (DD)	3,6	330	0,0
3H (CU) 9 Down	-2,6	312	0,3
9H (CD)	0,8	321	0,1
12H (CL) 6 Down	-4,0	329	0,1
6H (CR) 12 Down	6,7	305	0,0
average	1,4	324	0,1
delta	10,7	40	0,3

I noticed my Seamaster getting fast around +34s/day to max +90s/day when on the wrist after full wind. As soon as I put it down it normalises and gets back to measuring time accurately. I suspected rebounding from kinetic energy of the wrist while fully wound in the post I wrote after noticing this issue HERE [LINK]

I throw it on the timegrapher and my readings from 6 positions indicate abnormally high amplitude. What are my next steps in diagnosing the issue? Could it be the A8800 movement coming bare dry from factory or should I also look elsewhere for a conclusion?

(attaching the timegrapher readings, to indicate watch position on each picture I used a little bronze figure in the bottom of the timegrapher)

POSITION	RATE [s/d]	AMPL [°]	B.E. [ms]
CH (DU)	3,7	345	0,0
CB (DD)	3,6	330	0,0
3H (CU) 9 Down	-2,6	312	0,3
9H (CD)	0,8	321	0,1
12H (CL) 6 Down	-4,0	329	0,1
6H (CR) 12 Down	6,7	305	0,0
average	1,4	324	0,1
delta	10,7	40	0,3

After 6 months of rather infrequent wear of my VSF Submariner 126610LV I gave it a shake and heard metallic clanking inside. Pulled the crown immediately to stop the otherwise accurate movement. Suspecting loose rotor I opened it up and used that special triangle screwdriver to remove the rotor screw to find its flange had already separated. Removed both sections of the screw and the rotor to prevent any further damage. Ordered replacement rotor screw on AliExpress. It should arrive within 2 weeks.

As I researched this topic, it came to my attention it might be caused by overtightening the rotor screw. Would you recommend screwing lightly and putting a dab of purple low-strenght Loctite on the rotor screw instead?

How can I prevent this from re-occuring?

After 6 months of rather infrequent wear of my VSF Submariner 126610LV I gave it a shake and heard metallic clanking inside. Pulled the crown immediately to stop the otherwise accurate movement. Suspecting loose rotor I opened it up and used that special triangle screwdriver to remove the rotor screw to find its flange had already separated. Removed both sections of the screw and the rotor to prevent any further damage. Ordered replacement rotor screw on AliExpress. It should arrive within 2 weeks.

As I researched this topic, it came to my attention it might be caused by overtightening the rotor screw. Would you recommend screwing lightly and putting a dab of purple low-strenght Loctite on the rotor screw instead?

How can I prevent this from re-occuring?

1. Dealer name: Ora Watch

2. Factory name: PPF

3. Model name (& version number): Historiques 222 4200H/222A 37mm SS/SS Blue Dial PPF A2455

4. Price Paid: $500 shipped

5. Album Links: https://a202312252005321242001419.wgstores.com/weshop/goods/_dnRqfRKlCQnCwaBBUqm613RnVgXsENon6rPO-yw/_dsxqf9-O-ZwWpxirTOjdg_O8FWZC0AiBsTD0PdQ

6. ⁠Index alignment: After rotating the original image -1.2° and applying the QC tool they look acceptable to me

7. ⁠Dial Printing: Dial printings are crisp and even and the Maltese cross looks perfect

8. Date Wheel alignment/printing: date “15” seems slightly shifted up and it is visibly off-center, however it is not a big enough issue to RL

9. Hand Alignment: Seems good to me

10. ⁠Bezel: Brushing is OK and the outside gears are machined well

11. Solid End Links (SELs): N/A

12. ⁠Timegrapher numbers: +0 s/d, 292 Amp, 0.1ms beat err at 52 lift angle. All within range as per
guide. The trace line is straight with no outlier dots. Well-regulated movement.

13.  ⁠Anything else you notice: Everything else seems fine, the Maltese cross in the bottom of the case looks great without any glue on it, bracelet and caseback without any visible damage

This watch looks great and this particular piece seems a GL to me however your point of view about this is highly welcome.

Yesterday I started a lawn mower and after 10-15 minutes max I noticed a watch on my wrist so put it aside for the rest of the job. Left it dial-up for the night. Checked the accuracy today mid-day and it was already running +36s/day even though it had been perfect zero before. Gave it 15 winds and a few shakes and palm-slaps. Measured accuracy after another two hours and it was running even faster at the average +84s/day. Fearing that I fucked-up a healthy movement, I immediately hacked seconds and left it stopped.

Tried to make a few photos from every angle. I am at the summer house so do not have tools to dig deeper. Bombardment of photos attached. The watch is still left stopped and idle.

Is there anything I could do before running to a rep-friendly watchmaker?

EDIT: I left it dial-down for the night and today measured the accuracy. It's +8.5s/day that looks like getting back to normal. I don't think the regulator arm was moved. Maybe something temporary happened to the hairspring that is now getting back to normal?

Yesterday I started a lawn mower and after 10-15 minutes max I noticed a watch on my wrist so put it aside for the rest of the job. Left it dial-up for the night. Checked the accuracy today mid-day and it was already running +36s/day even though it had been perfect zero before. Gave it 15 winds and a few shakes and palm-slaps. Measured accuracy after another two hours and it was running even faster at the average +84s/day. Fearing that I fucked-up a healthy movement, I immediately hacked seconds and left it stopped.

Tried to make a few photos from every angle. I am at the summer house so do not have tools to dig deeper. Bombardment of photos attached. The watch is still left stopped and idle.

Is there anything I could do before running to a rep-friendly watchmaker?

After trying numerous TDs I gave Ethan Watches a go and I am positively surprised by the quality of service. At this price point, Ethan delivers the best QC providing high quality photos and resolving all issues raised. Communication is top notch, responding quickly and comprehensively. Immediate shipment after payment ensures timely delivery. My watch arrived in 2 weeks after completing the transaction.

Thanks to Ethan I have obtained a very rare timepiece I wouldn't be able to get elsewhere. This is one of the best experiences I ever had. Thoroughly recommend!

LINK TO QC

1. Dealer name: Ethan Watch

2. Factory name: APSF final remaining stock clearance

3. Model name (& version number): Royal Oak Chrono 26240 41mm White Ceramic/Cer Blue Dial APS SH4401 (fantasy piece inspired by INA&Co. aftermarket mods)

4. Price Paid: $810 shipped

5. Album Links: https://a202503121108564432002981.szwego.com/weshop/goods/_diBqfB_6K0Fni6Viqy3qjRnYcVlHlv_RP68U2bQ/_dvjqfSvIiWMosYPaowfUhELmgoWnz-SYJLkO9WA

6. ⁠Index alignment: After rotating the original image +1.0° and applying the QC tool they look acceptable to me

7. ⁠Dial Printing: Dial and sub-dial printings look perfect on this midnight navy / deep blue dial

8. Date Wheel alignment/printing: date 25 seems slightly shifted to the right so “5” borders the date window, however it is barely visible but still technically minimally off-center

9. Hand Alignment: Chronograph hand in the starting position is not shifted clockwise and perfectly vertical therefore the most common issue of this model is not present in this piece

10. ⁠Bezel: Screws are properly rotated and sit tight

11. Solid End Links (SELs): N/A

12. ⁠Timegrapher numbers: +0 s/d, 270 Amp, 0.1ms beat err at 52 lift angle. All within range as per
guide. The line is straight with no outlier dots. Well-regulated movement.

13.  ⁠Anything else you notice: Two small black dots on the crown reported to seller who claims it is a shooting issue. Even if a permanent scratch, it would be barely visible without magnification.

I have a last-batch APSF black ceramic 26240CE secured shortly before the factory shutdown, therefore this model seems captivating to me even though there is no gen of this, only INA&Co. mods can relate to this. The watch looks a solid final chapter of the APSF production. Your point of view about this is highly welcome.

I understand this is a cosmetic NOT mechanical issue however I would like to ask for a risk assessment. The watch came with one hair lint at the tip of the minute hand. Is it worth taking a DDF 324+330(decorated) out just to remove it? RWI teardown states this is a highly delicate movement and I am worried that a local watchmaker might damage the keyless works when releasing the stem.

Is it an easy job for a watchmaker to remove the entire mechanism?

Fix it or leave it?

(I am sure experienced watchmakers here can assess if it is worth the risk)

Ever since I ordered my first "real" rep I remembered somewhere in the drawer something interesting has been slowly dying, all forgotten... Absolute dog shit from vacations in Turkey many many years ago. All such shitters had the same dials, only brand text changed so you would get the same "A. Lange & Söhne" as this "Patek". Broke down quicker than lightning so I took it to a watchmaker who laughted at this absolute shit. I am not sure if this rotor was ever winding this thing as it rotates like a fidget spinner. This even has subdials to remind there are days in the week and months in the year, all operated manually through pushers: grand fuc**** complication.

So that was the state of the game some 20 years ago. Seems we are making progress here in the contemporary rep industry.

Have you ever seen something that bad and ugly?

Hi guys! I was working with my reps giving their rotors an isopropyl alcohol wash and lubricating the bearings with Moebius 9010. DD4131 landed on my bench last and I need your advise.

I removed the three screws from the central rotor plate but still the rotor doesn't budge. How to remove it safely?

Hello! After receiving my RCF Bluesy I noticed unusual 66h31min power reserve: https://www.reddit.com/r/RepTime/s/XbvUf0wLHu

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Some redditors questioned the movement so I took off the caseback and removed the rotor. Can you confirm it is a VR3235 movement?

Hello! After receiving my RCF Bluesy I noticed unusual 66h31min power reserve: https://www.reddit.com/r/RepTime/s/XbvUf0wLHu

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Some redditors questioned the movement so I took off the caseback and removed the rotor. Can you confirm it is a VR3235 movement?

I have a history of ordering with many different TDs and have had my eyes on Easy Watch u/Koi-288862 since he created his Telegram channel. It was a good decision to give this new seller a try. Communication was excellent and Easy Watch was accommodating of my requests, especially changing an order from a promotional sale watch with no ETA from VSF to a Seamaster that he actually had in stock. Very good quality QC photos (LINK to QC) and fast triangular shipment: watch is on my wrist within 2 weeks of giving it a GL. Easy Watch definitely earned my trust and I recommend him for combination of good price and excellent communication. Keep up the good work!

1. Dealer name: Phoenix Watches

2. Factory name: DDF

3. Model name (& version number): Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G-010 42mm SS DDF Green Dial on Green Rubber Strap DD324 (330 decorated)

4. Price Paid: CNY 3650 + CNY 190 shipping

5. Album Links: WhatsApp images attached

6. ⁠Index alignment: After rotating the original image and applying the QC overlay tool they look acceptable to me, only 12 o’clock bar is slightly CCW rotated but within acceptable range, all Arabic numerals are well positioned including problematic 10, 11 and 12 (all checked with horizontal and vertical lines)

7. ⁠Dial Printing: writings are crisp, it’s a phenomenal dial to my liking

8. Date Wheel alignment/printing: date 3 is centrally positioned and the font is bold

9. Hand Alignment: Looks good to me

10. ⁠Bezel: Bezel shape looks correct to me

11. Solid End Links (SELs): N/A

12. ⁠Timegrapher numbers: +5 s/d, 265 Amp, 0.2ms beat err at 52 lift angle. All within range as per guide. The line slopes slightly upwards without outlier dots.

13.  ⁠Anything else you notice: Dirt in red is already addressed and no longer a concern. Not visible anymore in additional pictures provided by the seller, likely was just hair on the crystal.

DD Caliber 324 movement is a major concern raised in both RepTime and in the RWI movement teardown. We have a DD 26-330 decorated plate on top. Two different pictures with the movement visible in two different rotor positions depending on angle show that the rotor moves freely, therefore on-wrist winding should not be an issue. Rotor is unobstructed by screws that sit tightly. Furthermore, the timegrapher reading indicates a healthy movement. Therefore, I would give this DD324+330 a leap of faith.

1. Dealer name: Easy Watch

2. Factory name: VSF

3. Model name (& version number): Seamaster Diver 300M Black Ceramic Bezel V4 VSF White Dial On SS Bracelet Super Clone Asian 8800, Omega 210.30.42.20.04.001

4. Price Paid: $343 insured&shipped

5. Album Links: all photos attached

6. ⁠Index alignment: 12 hour marker’s right bar minimally CCW canted, 3 and 9 are OK, 6 slightly off center shifted to the right. Nonetheless seems like an above-average alignment for this model.

7. ⁠Dial Printing: writings are crisp and centered well & not too thick, Seamaster is tad orangy which is a common issue and OK with me

8. Date Wheel alignment/printing: 10 is well centered inside date window, everything OK

9. Hand Alignment: All hands are good and following the hour and minute track. No issues here.

10. ⁠Bezel: My biggest concern here. Hour 3 and 9 bezel index bars are not perfectly in line creating slight misalignment among the entire bezel. Could be due to picture angle but seems way off still. Could be convexity of the crystal creating misalignment effect as it seems better on non-magnified photos without alignment lines. Colour is fine. Bezel pip at 12 centered well, however the entire bezel needs one click to be properly rotated versus dial.

11. Solid End Links (SELs): Seems tight, all OK.

12. ⁠Timegrapher numbers: -1 s/d, 301 Amp, 0.2ms beat err at 52 lift angle. All within range as per
guide. The line is straight with no jumps and signal from watch is present.

13.  ⁠Anything else you notice: No dirt or scratches or other concerns noticed.

This is a very hard QC for me since these Seamasters have widely-known misalignment issues and I need a compromise, especially looking at the bezel. A second pair of eyes with more experience is much welcomed.