Hi guys, I wanna restore these wheels of my Porsche 924. Ive painted a steelies before, but completely new to a bi-color aluminium wheel. Its black on the inside, silver on the outside. Rim should be black as well. How would you approach it?
I have the option to get two 924 for 3500€ (price for both) not far from me.
First one '79, 4-Speed, rebuilt engine but not running, completely apart, no good interior, red, needs paintjob but with new brakes and exhaust. Former owner (before current) had to abandon the project, current thought hed get a easy project, now its been just stand due to the engine not running. Pretty sure its fuel.
Second one '76, 4 speed, gold, pretty rusty, engine bay looks flood damaged, pretty complete in terms of motor, interior is rotten, pretty beat up, paint job non existing, lots of filler peeling over rusted metal - this car is more like a bonus/parts car/later project.
I wanna get a running car in like half a year, I dont mind a project, I just dont like red 924. What you guys think?
Where can I get it? Its sold out in most of the shops (located in Vienna). Is there any trick/work around in how to renew this trim on a budget? Not a huge fan of replacing everyhting with aftermarket stuff. I can see there is a metal piece worked in it. Happy for every hint!
Hello, my MK2 with a 1.3L NZ engine runs very rough when it's cold. I've read that a heated lambda sensor helps. Does anyone have any experience with this? Can you recommend a specific sensor? Thanks in advance!
Servus, ich bin 30 und würde mich gerne mit der Reparatur von Geräten selbstständig machen. Das Problem: In Österreich ist das ein geschütztes Gewerbe und laut Wirtschaftskammer müsste ich dafür einen Mechatroniker-Meister machen.
Ich war bereits zur Beratung dort und es gibt neben dem klassischen Weg noch ein paar andere Möglichkeiten, aber grundsätzlich läuft alles darauf hinaus zumindest mal auf 4-5 Jahre mit Abendschulen und Kursen beschäftigt zu sein.
Ich habe nebenher eine Selbstständigkeit als Musiker (von der ich lebe), außerdem ein Diplom in Grafikdesign. Ich arbeite bereits in einer Reparaturwerkstätte und habe auch viel Erfahrung im Bereich KfZ, was ich als Hobby betreibe.
Grundsätzlich finde ich den Bereich der Mechatronik sehr interessant, aber ich habe echt null Bock auf 3 Jahre Abendschule nur um dann meine Lehrabschlussprüfung zu haben. Ich habe mir bisher alles was ich weiß selber beigebracht und habe eine relativ schnelle Auffassungsgabe.
Was würdet ihr mir raten? Gibts evtl Erfahrungsberichte für den Meister im zweiten Bildungsweg? Bin für jeden Hinweis dankbar :-)
I recently stumbled upon this 924 Turbo 1 and took a look at it. Cosmetically its in really rough condition but nothing I cant handle and sooner or later it will need a repaint anyway.
What concerns me is the motor, I only owned a "normal" 924 before and never dealt with a turbo engine. From what I've heard parts a rare and expensive.
When I gave the thing a look it had oil drips on the motor pan and oil on (!!!!) the motor block. Im talking just below the oval intake pipe next to spark plugs. Also quite a bit of smoke (looked white tbh) coming after cold start. Also I couldnt test drive the car. Idle was pretty high and a bit rough.
The price is pretty fair, I think I wanna go for it but Im just really scared to open up a can of worms with this one, as I only want a 924 as a daily again.
Any turbo related advice is appreciated!!!! Location is middle europe.
Hallo Leute, habe einen 1.3 NZ restauriert und jetzt ist als letztes der Motor dran. Wie ihr hört sägt er leicht und läuft nicht wirklich rund im Leerlauf.
Dazu habe ich dieses schleifende Geräusch dass ich nicht richtig zuordnen kann und natürlich dieses sehr laute klackern. Ist das ein hängender Stößel?
Habe die Drosselklappe schon gereinigt, abgedichtet und die offensichtlichen Unterdruckschläuche ersetzt. Wenn ich den Stecker an der Drosselklappe abziehe, bleibt der Motorlauf gleich. Habe dort 5V anliegen.
Freue mich über jeden Tipp!!!
Ich höre nach wie vor sehr gerne CDs, besonders seit dem der Vinyl Markt so teuer geworden ist.
Denn das ist das was ich an der CD so liebe: Sie ist billig.
Habt ihr Tipps für Läden mit guter Auswahl und fairen Preisen? 💿
Hi guys! After I brought back a broken CD50 as well as my Beogram 5005, I wanted to overhaul my Beomaster 5000.
What are the usual restauration steps? Which parts should I swap/check?
I will do filter caps for sure and also heard that the relais for audio muting and power supply wear out. When the Beomaster is in stand by I still have hum on some speakers.
Thank you guys!
Hi guys, my Dynacord Twen II has a pretty bad (what I think) 50Hz hum in the preamp section.
When I short the input jack, the hum goes away completely. When I switch V1 and V2 the hum stays consistent (they are both ECC83s). The hum is reduced when there is a jack plugged in. Of course it does respond to Volume knob and goes away completely when turned all the way down.
What I already did: Changed caps, tried another input jack, got rid of input no2, resoldered all the connections around V1 and preamp, resoldered ground connections, measured between tip and mass (2,8 kOhm), unsoldered input cable on pin 7 of V1 (noise gets louder), poked around with a stick (only pin 6 and 7 respond to ma poking - grid and anode).
Im a beginner at repairing this stuff and chasing down hum, happy for every hint. It seems to me that there is a problem with the grid. I dont want to throw in new tubes unless Im not certain mine are blown. Thank you guys in advance!
Hi guys, me again, with my Dynacord Twen II which has a pretty bad (what I think) 50Hz hum in the preamp section.
When I short the input jack, the hum goes away completely. When I switch V1 and V2 the hum stays consistent (they are both ECC83s). The hum is reduced when there is a jack plugged in. Of course it does respond to Volume knob and goes away completely when turned all the way down.
What I already did: Changed caps, tried another input jack, got rid of input no2, resoldered all the connections around V1 and preamp, resoldered ground connections, measured between tip and mass (2,8 kOhm), unsoldered input cable on pin 7 of V1 (noise gets louder), poked around with a stick (only pin 6 and 7 respond to ma poking - grid and anode).
Im a beginner at repairing this stuff and chasing down hum, happy for every hint. It seems to me that there is a problem with the grid. I dont want to throw in new tubes unless Im not certain mine are blown. Thank you guys in advance!
Hello friends! I picked up this broken SK-15 and wanted to get a shot in fixing it.
First of all volume is super low, from the three voices I can only play the organ, the other two are just static noise. Organ seems to shine throuh no matter what I select. Voice control barely works. The keyboard is behaving in a way, which is hard to describe. Pitch is somewhat right but it seems to play two tones at a time, limited polyphony, some keys create only noise.
I already changed cabs in the power supply section. The chips get the voltage they need. I have never went further than basic stuff like recapping ob synths. Where should I go? Is this a Master Clock problem? Luckily the manual has documentation about the chips. Happy about any help I can get!
Hello friends! I picked up this broken SK-15 and wanted to get a shot in fixing it.
First of all volume is super low, from the three voices I can only play the organ, the other two are just static noise. Organ seems to shine throuh no matter what I select. Voice control barely works. The keyboard is behaving in a way, which is hard to describe. Pitch is somewhat right but it seems to play two tones at a time, limited polyphony, some keys create only noise.
I already changed cabs in the power supply section. The chips get the voltage they need. I have never went further than basic stuff like recapping ob synths. Where should I go? Is this a Master Clock problem? Luckily the manual has documentation about the chips. Happy about any help I can get!
Hi there! Me again! I replaced the big caps, all the small ones I left untouched. The humming is still crazy and hasnt changed a bit since my recap. Should I also go for the small ones? Can sb identify this kind of hum? Thank you guys, Im new to amp repair 😩🤙
Hi everyone, I'm working on the brakes for the first time and have a question. I’ve completely replaced the rear drum brakes, including the shoes and cylinder. Up front, I replaced the discs and put a new seal, boot, and guides in the caliper. I must have ordered brake pads that are too thick, because I couldn’t get the caliper to fit anymore, so I put the old ones back on (they still have 1 cm left). But what really puzzles me: I was just about to bleed the brakes and was pumping the pedal properly. Then, after the 4th or 5th pump, the pedal went all the way through. The engine was off, and I could do it over and over again. The pedal felt really weak then and had almost a “scratchy” feel to it. After that, back to normal pumping. What is that? Master cylinder? Drum brake adjuster? The car is a '88 Golf Mk2 with a 1.3L NZ engine.
Can anyone tell me the correct part number/link for that brake caliper?
I ordered the "correct" one twice and both of them weren't right (came with different mounting). Starting to loose my mind over this. Golf 2 1.3l NZ '88.
Hi there! Im not that experienced with tube amps, but I got this Dynacord Twen II which had a corroded tube and some cold solder joints. Now that its singing again I still need to change the caps and a volume potentiometer.
But I got this weird noise in the amp which almost sounds like a snare drum net, a vibrating hum responding to the frequency im playing. I stabbed all my tubes with a stick, I couldnt hear any response from the speaker.
Sorry if this is a beginner questions, just getting into it. Can provide schematic if needed!