5040 via Cobalt or ridge up/down?
I'd like to take one route up and the other down, any recommendations on which to go with?
I'd like to take one route up and the other down, any recommendations on which to go with?
My partner and I will be moving out of our current place in a couple of months, but we will not be moving in to a new place for a few months. Instead, we plan to travel for a few months and stay with friends when we return until we find a suitable place to move into.
Our plan has been to move all of our stuff into storage, and then move it again once we find a place to live. This essentially means moving twice. And idea that has come up is using one of those container storage services where they drop off a container on your street, you pack it up, and then they take it away to storage and/or your new place once you're ready to move in.
Can anyone recommend one of these places that they have personally used? What was your experience like?
All suggestions or warnings welcome!
At most we will have from Sunday late morning until Friday afternoon. A few options I'm considering are Della Falls, Century Sam, and 5040. We haven't done any of these, but I'm wondering whether there is anything else we should consider. South Island would be ideal since we want to end up in Pachena Bay, but open to anything that isn't too far off. North Island is unfortunately out of the question this time.
Strenuous but rewarding is absolutely welcome!
Those of you who know, how much does your multi-day motocamping load weigh?
My suited up base weight is 212 lbs (96 kg) and my gear, including all bags, weighs in at 42 lbs (19 kg) for a total of about 255 lbs (115 kg).
I go pretty minimal and have some light gear, but I was surprised that it still added up to that much. Something interesting to note, this weight doesn't fluctuate all that much depending on length of trip. I've done multi-week trips and single nighters, and it's pretty much the same.
I only carry the tools required for the jobs I know how to do. The most important for me is being able to deal with flats. I have used these exact tools to change tires at home and to repair one flat on a trip. I used the patch kit that time and I’m still riding on the same tube a year later. No problem.
More detail: The Motion Pro metric tool (black case next to Leatherman) can be used to remove 8, 10, 12 & 14 mm bolts, #2 & #3 Phillips screws, small & medium straight-slot screws and 5 & 6 mm hex bolts. I plan on ordering an additional 3 & 4 mm combo hex bit for it now that I have a need for those sizes. It also includes a 1/4" and 3/8" socket driver and 10 mm & 12 mm 1/4" drive sockets. I've added a 16 mm socket and 14-16 mm hex adapter for the front axel.
The round blue thing is a 3/8"-drive adapter for the 24 mm combo lever. I really wish the other combo lever had a 17 mm box wrench instead of the 12/13 mm. If it did, I wouldn't need the adjustable wrench.
Besides pliers and a blade, the Leatherman has a couple of smaller Phillips and flathead bits…and a bottle opener, which the Motion Pro tool also has.
If you don’t mind sharing the type of aircraft you operate, where and how it’s stored, and how many hours you average annually, it’d be really helpful. I have considered getting a PPL for many years, and am finally in the position where that might be possible.
This is one of my biggest annoyances about my bike. The plastics on the left side of my bike are generally mangled and being held in place by…I don't know what, to be honest. The side cover is one of the few spots that has all of its mounting points intact, but anytime I have my Mosko R40 mounted, it leverages it away from the bike. It looks and feels very janky. I hate it.
These AS luggage support racks seem like overkill and are totally unnecessary on the right side of the bike where the exhaust does a perfect job of supporting the bag. They're also hideous.
I'm thinking one of those tool tubes mounted opposite of the muffler would be perfect, but I'm not sure how they mount. Has anyone pulled this off successfully? Has it provided enough support to keep the bag from pressing into the side cover?
I just learned this is a thing Is it something that’s possible/necessary to do in the stock exhaust?
Every time I get to roam this province I’m reminded how lucky I am to have ended up here. ❤️ BC
Apologies for hammering this sub with all the Rally Raid suspension questions lately. I realize this one is a little dumb, because I installed the shock myself, but in my excitement I didn't really take a lot of time to inspect it…I just wanted to go ride!
I'm curious how well these work: https://www.stahlbus.com/products/en/oil-drain-valve/index.php
I imagine it'd be pretty sketchy to use this on any off-road bike without a bash plate to protect it.
Last week I installed the full L2 kit on my bike. My initial impression was very positive, but that was only after ripping around back alleys, hitting a couple of bumps and little jumps/drops.
Then I took it off-road onto some beginner level easy single track. Overall the bike still felt more capable, but the front tops out with a knock quite often when going over harsh bumps and ledges, especially while going uphill.
After the single track I took the bike to an authorized TracTive suspension shop to check things out and help me dial things in. The guy wasn’t impressed. He told me that the shock spring I got is too heavy, despite following the weigh guidelines on RR’s site, and that I should ride with the preload wide open to get it “close to where it should be”. This was while I was fully loaded for a multi-day trip.
I had the fork kit installed by a different suspension shop earlier that week. Some of you might remember me asking about the “clicking” in the first few mms of compression (only while not installed). Well, the second shop took a look at the video I had of that and confirmed that this definitely wasn’t good. They took the forks apart…and found nothing wrong except for the internal preload being very unequal between the two legs. One had loads the other almost none. This is preload set using washers/shims in the fork, not the external clicker.
After the second shop tuned things for me, things were definitely better, but still not what I expected for this kit. I honestly regret not going with K-Tech, which has individual compression and rebound adjustments on the fork. The combined adjustment on the RR kit doesn’t make sense to me. You can’t increase the fork’s rebound dampening without increasing compression dampening x 4. The shock is the other way around.
I’d love to hear from those of you who have this kit and weigh around 225 lbs fully kitted up. Have you dialled it to where you’re very happy with it? Do you experience the fork topping out? Does it clang? Is this normal and to be expected?
Last night after doing a bunch of maintenance, I took my bike out and noticed that the front right indicator wasn’t on as it should be for daytime running lights. Flicking the right turn signal on it flashed fine. Same with hazard mode. I parked my bike for a few minutes and when I started it back up both of the indicators were on.
Any idea what I could check? I’m worried I have an electrical gremlin developing.
I had a local pro suspension shop install the Rally Raid L2 fork kit in my CRF300L forks. Picked them up this morning and this is what both of them sound and feel like. The tech told me about this before I had a chance to discover it on my own. He reassured me that he followed the instructions to the letter and even watched a few videos to make certain. This isn’t some sketchy shop. These guys have been around for decades and are very highly regarded. Their reviews reflect this. I spoke to them again and they reassured me that it’s OK. They explained that springs are mass manufactured and they are not all created equal. Apparently the click is the springs catching on a clip or something. The tech offered for me to bring it in so he could show me. I would rather just get these back in and ride, but…I’m feeling a little disappointed by the perceived quality here. While crazy soft, the OEM forks were smooth (and soft) as butter and didn’t make any sounds…until they bottomed out.
Thoughts?
I had a very reputable, long-standing local suspension shop install the RR fork kit for me. When I picked it up today the tech told me he couldn’t figure out why it clicks in the first few mm of the stroke. He said he swapped the springs around end for end and side to side and it persisted. Also, when I hit the fork with my palm from the side, the springs rattle inside. Is this normal? I’ll try to get a video to show you guys when I’m back from work, but I’m a little bit concerned / disappointed considering how much I have spent on this upgrade.
Have any of you done any of the hardware mods without a flashed ECU? What were the results? I'm just curious…
I'm looking at the invoice for installing a Rally Raid fork kit and it shows SKF Fork Seal SHOWA 43mm (Per Side) $55.00, but when I look up that exact kit it looks like there are two in there…do I need a total of four?
I don’t work on a tug, but I work as a launch captain for a marine transport company that is first and foremost a tug company. This is my first job in the industry and first blue collar job in general.
I want to quit and go travel for an indefinite period of time. It might be 1-3 months, or could be more like a year with shorts stints home. I’d be happy to pick up work during those stints.
Is it normal or appreciated to provide a letter of resignation? Or is the norm just a verbal over versatile and a handshake / GTFO?