It looks like I got a tear in my FEP and resin leaked onto the screen. Looks like it is damaged. I see a replacement for $90 on the website. It was purchased on 3/30/26. What are the recommendations? Reading Phrozen’s warranty info I doubt if it is covered. Should I try to clean it? Should I order a new screen and try to install it? Should I buy a new printer?
I’m printing miniature components for a book nook and could use some help troubleshooting recent failures.
My setup:
Printer: Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K S
Resin: Phrozen Aqua 8K Grey
Slicer: Lychee
Layer height: 30 microns
Normal exposure: 1.9 seconds
Wait before print: 2 seconds
Heated enclosure
temp remained between 77 and 81F
I recently had a smaller miniature print come out clean and square with these settings, but my latest job with two larger pieces failed. One was a tall rectangular control-panel back, and the other was a galley cabinet. The galley was printed solid and was fairly heavy. The control-panel back failed in a similar area. I retried with just the control panel last night and it failed in a similar spot and way.
There was plenty of resin remaining—the vat was full when I started.
I’m attaching photos of the failed pieces, their orientation/supports, and my settings. I’m trying to figure out whether the main issue is:
Too much cross-sectional area or peel force
Orientation or insufficient supports
Printing the galley solid
Exposure or lift settings
A possible FEP or screen issue
Would you start by printing the control-panel back alone with a different orientation/support layout? For a tall rectangular piece, would you orient its long dimension more horizontally or vertically, with an appropriate tilt?
I’d appreciate suggestions on what to change first so I can troubleshoot systematically. Thanks!
I was inspired by some of the booknook masters in the community that use custom lighting to really upgrade their kits. I wanted to add illuminated 3D lanterns. Here’s the process I used:
I had already designed a smaller scale 3D paper lantern for my Whispering Hollow - Bilbo’s birthday. However, it was a solid print with no LEDs.
Created a hollow center for 3D lantern STL I had created.
In order to light the lanterns I needed a hollow center for an LED. Using MeshMixer, I positioned a cylinder through the center of each lantern about 1/2 way down and used Boolean Difference to subtract it from the model. This created a channel through the top for the LED and wiring.
Printed the lanterns in clear resin
Clear resin allows the light to glow through the lantern body. I painted the roof, trim, lettering, and other structural parts black to block the light while leaving the main lantern section translucent and painted that with a watered down coat or two of vallejo dead white and citadel evil sunz red. You can use any color you want, just keep it very thin.
Link to Amazon for the lights I used: https://a.co/d/0ciVzQba
Installed the lighting
I used 3 mm, 3V warm-white LEDs. After testing each LED, I inserted it into the lantern and secured it with a small amount of Aleene’s Tacky Glue. It holds well but is easier to control than superglue around clear resin.
Mounted the lanterns
I cut small holes in the roof where each lantern would hang, fed the wires through, and glued the lanterns into position. Inside the roof, I glued and taped the wiring down so it wouldn’t pull on the lanterns or interfere with the rest of the build.
Connected them to the lighting harness
I spliced the new LED wires into the book nook’s existing wiring harness. I used heat-shrink wire connectors and a heat gun to secure and insulate each connection. Refer to PlucktheBunny’s Youtube videos on how to do this, it is excellent.
My biggest tips are to test every light before gluing anything, leave more wire than you think you’ll need, confirm the polarity before making the final connections, and test the entire lighting system again before closing up the walls or roof.
The clear resin made a huge difference—the lanterns look good unlit, but they really come alive when the book nook is switched on.
I hope this helps anyone thinking about adding custom illuminated lanterns to their build. I’m happy to answer questions about the modeling, printing, painting, or wiring process!
Thanks to r/PlucktheBunny for agreeing to post these STL to ThingyVerse for those want to 3D print and deal with the mess and smells! For those that just want the 3D printed objects, Pluck can support your needs. He has the lantern, octopus, and yakitori cook just reach out to him.
This CuteBee Osaka Ichiban Street kit was my favorite build so far. The kit itself is gorgeous, well engineered, high quality and very customizable. I couldn’t resist making it my own along the way. I have been to Japan twice and this nook really inspired me. I designed/3D printed and painted several custom pieces that were a lot of fun.
Takoyaki/octopus and sign
Sailing ship
yakitori cook and grill
Japanese chochin paper lanterns
I love how the real paper lanterns glow at night. The 2D lanterns judt did not do it justice. I designed and printed these ones using a clear resin with a hollow center for an led light and painted them white and red. I also spliced the wiring into the kit using r/pluckthebunny technique. I am really pleased with these and the shrine style lantern as well. The extra warm light really helps bring the Osaka street scene to life.
A lot of the fun for me was trying to make the additions look like they belonged in the original kit rather than just adding more stuff for the sake of it.
Really happy with how this one turned out. Hope you enjoy the finished pictures!
I am having trouble printing some mini objects with phrozen aqua clear plus. Printed great with Aqua 8k grey.
Here are my settings.
Normal exposure: 2.0 s
Layer height: 50 µm
Bottom: 5 layers × 25 s
Transition: 6
Wait Before Print: 1.5s
Lift: 6 mm @ 60 mm/min
Retract: 150 mm/min
It may be I need more supports.
Finally calling this one finished! Here are my experiences with this Viendor kit, that I really enjoyed building.
The good
Very detailed with lots of great colors and details for the buildings.
Good instructions and wiring kit.
I liked that you put a building together at a time and most of the parts are in order. I was able to plan like a building or 2 per sitting and that was motivating for me to get something done each sitting.
Signs and artwork are high quality and beautiful.
Opportunities to customize.
The not so good
The wood is thin and brittle in my opinion, easy to break or crack. I broke at least 15 pieces. I was able to fix most of them.
The lighting is too bright in areas and dim in others.
I wanted to give the street a little more life and depth, so I replaced/added several of the flatter kit details with 3D pieces that I printed and painted. I added the blue bicycle on the front, two Vespas, the porter carrying his load, and the rickshaw.
I tried to keep everything weathered and a little worn so it felt like it belonged in the scene rather than looking newly added. It was a fun challenge to match the scale and print and paint these tiny things.
This was a really fun build and an even more fun one to customize.
Calling it done… although with book nooks, I’m learning that “done” is a dangerous word. 😂
Would love to hear what you think!
First off I love it, didn’t have it, and it looks beautiful. Thanks to u/pluckthebunny for making this possible and we helped people in need. I am thinking about customizing with some edge painting, 3D Japanese characters (maybe some geishas and samurai), and some of those Japanese paper lanterns. This will be an easier project which I need.
Pedro is a 13 week old long coat chihuahua we brought home 2 weeks ago. He is very spunky and sweet. We have a 5 year old F mini dachshund as his big sister. Anyway, wanted to say hello to the community!
I’ve been customizing the Anavrin Old Shanghai book nook, and one thing that bothered me is how much empty space is hidden behind the storefronts.
Instead of leaving it hollow, I built some shallow inserts that slide into the unused cavities. I was going to use foam board but instead I 3D printed it. You can use foam board, thick poster board, coffee stirrers or whatever. They have a flange around the front so they glue in cleanly, plus a slot in the top for the LED wiring.
For this build I looked up the sign meaning and it said it was a photo studio so I put the following into it:
Wainscoting inside the insert
A vintage photography studio display
Miniature camera, framed photos, and props
Extra lighting behind the window to create depth
I also replaced the rickshaw with an antique bike I printed since it was blocking my jazz scene.
From the front it looks like there’s an actual business inside the building instead of just a printed backdrop.
The inserts only use about 10 mm of depth, so they fit in spaces that would otherwise go unused.
A few tips if anyone wants to try this:
Measure the available cavity first—mine varied from building to building.
Add a small front flange so alignment during gluing is easy.
Leave a channel or slot for LED wires before printing.
Interior wall details (like wainscoting) catch washes and dry brushing really well, even though they’re barely visible.
Light the insert separately if possible—it makes a huge difference at night.
This is still a work in progress, but it’s becoming one of my favorite parts of the build because it rewards people who stop and really look.
I’d love to see what other people have done with the hidden spaces inside their book nooks.
About three weeks ago I shared my work-in-progress Whispering Hollow build. I felt it needed something else, so I added some more elements and now I am done-done..
Since then I’ve added Bilbos party stuff, more water effects, foliage, and rocks:
Table with beer kegs and mugs,
Sam and Rosie, Took brothers on the bank.
I flattened this area some and made it slightly bigger with Vallejo Earth FX.
Bilbo’s birthday cake on a table.
Water effects with Mod Podge, Vallejo foam, water gel fx.
Added vines and shrubs and fish tank rocks i painted.
I know it’s a lot in a small space, but I love it! On to the next one.
A hobbit party scene with kegs, tables, and figures
Additional moss, vines, flowers, and landscaping
More lighting and detail work throughout the scene
The goal was to capture the feeling of Bilbo’s birthday celebration just as Gandalf arrives in the Shire.
Most of the added figures and props were custom 3D printed and hand painted. This was my first major book nook customization project and I learned a ton along the way.
Here is the finished result. Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions on the original post!
My bathroom ceiling looks like it has some light mold. I plan to wash it with some bleach, prime it and paint it. Any feedback from the experts?
I think I need a new floating cable, and is likely source of my E-0010 error. Is this something DIY?
Finally finished customizing my Whispering Hollow book nook, Bilbo’s birthday party, a tiny Hobbit-inspired scene.
Added the Gandalf cart, shrub enhanced tree, custom waterfall effects with mod podge, terrain/path work and natural materials for rocks, Bilbo’s birthday banner, and paper lanterns. This was the most customizing I have ever done on a nook. I really enjoyed it and learned a lot. I looked forward to working on this one, when I was able to make the time. To me that is success, when I enjoy the process, even when it is challenging or frustrating. The small scale on the one was very different than other kits, and challenged me. I leveraged a lot of ideas I saw on this reddit, like the shrubs for the tree, waterfall effects, real stones and even the Gandalf fireworks. I really appreciate everyone sharing how they do it. I am not completely done, but I am very happy with this one. I am a big LOTR fan and this is one of my fav scenes.
Tried to make it feel like a quiet arrival into Hobbiton!
Just wrapped up Tonecheer’s Candy Workshop, it is very unique and colorful. I had moments I wanted to quit, but overall had a blast with it. I built it for my 2 year old granddaughter and she loves it! My goal was to create a Lisa Frank vibe as my daughter was into that when she was a kid.
All the gears and moving machines are so cool, but were a big challenge for me to get them smoothly working together. My advice for anyone building this is to take your time and make sure your gears are tight, smooth, lubed, and with minimal gapping on the orange o-rings. I had a couple of them too loose, and later in the build they locked up. I had to take it all apart to tighten them down and put it all back together, that took hours. I almost gave up and that point when I broke a couple pieces taking it apart.
Customizations:
3D printed 2 piece rainbow sign
“Suttons Candies” painted in fluorescent Lisa Frank blended rainbow style and covered with gloss varnish. This was a challenge to create, but I learned some new modeling tools and paint techniques. I love how it came out!
Colored led lights
I used some colored cellophane to ‘wrap’ LEDs in green, yellow, purple, and pink. Some look better than others but now I know the how to.
Edge painting
I did my best but I want to get better. I use posca markers and they don’t reach the small gaps very well. For the pros out there please help!
This was a fun build and I love the outcome! I am going to take a break from transmission models for a while and go back to good old book nooks.
Huge shoutout to Pluck the Bunny for creating this model for me—I finally got it painted, and brought to life.
Going for a 1930s jazz club vibe in the Anavrin book nook, so I kept her in an emerald green dress and him in a muted grey suit with a fedora. Tried to keep it simple and let the pose do most of the work.
Still learning with faces and small details at this scale, but really happy with how the overall feel came together.
Would love any feedback.
I’m working on customizing the Whispering Hollow booknook (still in the box) and ambitiously tried adding a small Gandalf & Frodo cart scene at 1:60-ish scale. I am a newbie to 3D resin printing, so I am thrilled I was able to get something printed I like! I’m also new to painting, and it was quite a challenge, (4 hours). I tried to keep it simple and just make it readable from a normal viewing distance. The fireworks in the back are my fav idea to give it some color, but now I’m second guessing if it’s too much for the space.
I haven’t glued anything down yet, so I can still adjust.
I plan to place it at the front going from left to right toward the house path on the right. I may need to take out the box with the pumpkins on the front left.
Would you:
keep the cart loaded like this
simplify it a bit, like Cart only parked to the side.
I am leaning toward keeping it right now if it fits the scale even remotely.
Appreciate any thoughts.
Looks like this one is a quasi book nook and a lot closer to historical pricing than what we have seen lately. A good move I think on there part. It looks cool, but not motivated to buy just yet. Too much in the back log including whispering hollow.
1st time 3D printing. Does this test print read that my settings in Lychee slicer are optimized for printing some minis?