
Flow calibration??
I just download a 3mf project and printed…didn’t check the parameters. Is this due to some settings in the 3mf or something odd with the flow calibration of the printer

I just download a 3mf project and printed…didn’t check the parameters. Is this due to some settings in the 3mf or something odd with the flow calibration of the printer
what propellers do you suggest for a long range flights and for a more fast/acrobatic flight with a 8" drone with 6S and 2810 1190KV motors?
I know it is better to build your own pack but i dont have a spot welder and all the other small things (wrapping, balance lead, capton tape, isolation tabs etc etc)
so i'm looking for my first long range battery 6S.
My ESC is rated for 60amps but the motor should not exceed 50amp max and i would like to have 15-20min flight time.
Delivery in EU
just received one of their discounted (no official DJI box) unit.
Confirmed shitty gyro.
I'll put the unit on the Pavo20Pro hoping the dampening is enough.
i normally work with 3d model or stl file. Now that i have the U1, i see a lot of model with colors which i like and i would like to import.
Before destroying the bed or other hardware due to g-code which is not compatible with the U1, how do you deal with 3MF file? (in particular the one from makersworld)
how come 99% of electronics (FC, ESC, full stacks) are not available?
I’m preparing the shopping list for my first 8” long range drone and I have the following doubt.
I want to use a true diversity ELRS receiver and, as I have a GX12 radio, using the Gemini Xband (2.4GHz and 915MHz) option should be a good idea.
As far as I understood the gemini protocol will use one receiver for high frequency and the other for low frequency.
The question is: during the flight, is the protocol also changing the frequencies?
Example: at the start of the flight receiver A is used for the 2.4GHz and B for the 915MHz. The signal or drone position make the radio link becoming weaker. The protocol assigns to receiver A the 915MHz band and to the B the 2.4GHz.
Why I’m asking is that I would like to install a better 915MHz antenna for long range and I hope the system will not try to use 2.4GHz as it will made it useless
I started to bring my drone with me during weekends.
As normally I travel by car i have my isdt Q6+ plugged to the cigarette lighter socket and with 1 parallel charging board I can do everything.
However this time we were travelling by train and I decided to bring my isdt k2 zip.
It was good as I was able to charge batteries at the top of the mountains in a small restaurant but I found it too bulky and heavy.
What is the best portable setup for you?
Maybe I should buy a huge 10000mah lipo battery and use only a small DC charger?
But eventually I will still have to charge this lipo
but in Northridge is still snowing.
I like the map but can we at least have some rotation?
Really wondering why they had to do a new design of the modular head
https://www.speedybee.com/speedybee-bee25-master-3x-o4-pro-aluminum-alloy-head-new-version/