u/boompwdhaha

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**Honda K-Line (ISO9141) ECU won't respond — hardware confirmed good, protocol/wakeup still failing**

**Setup:**
- ESP32 + SIT1027QT K-Line transceiver (SLP_N tied HIGH for Normal mode, TXD/RXD direct to ESP32 3.3V GPIO, RXD pull-up added)
- SCS diagnostic jumper connected on the car's 2-pin connector
- Target: Honda ECU from the 90s–2000s era (K-Line/ISO9141), reading via a request frame format `{0x72, 0x05, 0x71, <TableID>, <Checksum>}` where checksum = `0x100 - sum(bytes)`

**What's confirmed working:**
- TX/RX loopback is clean — every byte I send comes back exactly as sent (verified byte-for-byte across a full Table ID sweep 0x00–0x30 at both 10400 and 9600 baud). This rules out wiring, level compatibility, and the transceiver sleep-mode issue (SIT1027QT needs SLP_N held HIGH or it silently drops into sleep — that was an earlier gotcha, now resolved).
- No more brownout/reset loops after fixing SLP_N.

**What's NOT working:**
- Zero response from the ECU beyond my own echo — no sync byte, no extra bytes, nothing, at any Table ID, at either baud rate.
- Tried a proper ISO9141 5-baud init (200ms/bit, address byte 0x33, full start/stop bit timing) before requests — still nothing.
- Currently testing whether this ECU/protocol even needs the 5-baud wakeup at all, since a lot of Honda OBD0/OBD1 SCS-jumper implementations skip ISO9141 wakeup entirely and just expect direct request/response once SCS is grounded and ignition is ON.

**Questions for the community:**

1. For Honda K-Line via SCS jumper (not full OBD-II), does the ECU actually require a 5-baud ISO9141 wakeup, or does grounding SCS + key-ON put it straight into a listen state?
2. Is address byte 0x33 correct for this era of Honda ECU, or do some use a different address?
3. Any known fixed baud rate for this generation (I've tried 10400 and 9600)?
4. Could the SCS jumper need to be grounded *while cranking/starting* rather than before key-ON, depending on ECU generation?

Hi all, I have an old HKS PFC F-CON ECU that's been sitting around at home
for a while. I'm planning to finally install it on my Honda EK with a D16Y8
engine, but I'm missing the wiring diagram and pinout information.

Does anyone here have experience with this ECU or know where I can find:
- Complete pinout diagram for the main connectors
- Wiring schematic for D16Y8 installation
- Sensor input/output pin assignments

Any help would be really appreciated! Thanks in advance.

(Image reference from internet)

After a long struggle with the InfoLITHIUM battery handshake, I finally managed to power up my old Sony Handycam using a 18650 battery hack! The camera is now fully functional, and I’m getting a great vintage look on the flip-out screen.
Now, my goal is to stream/record this footage directly onto my iPhone (15 Pro with USB-C).
Here is my current setup:
Sony Handycam (using S-Video/AV out)
Generic "EasyCap" USB capture card (the black stick one)
USB-C to USB-A adapter
Power source: 18650 batteries (as seen in the photo)
I’ve tried plugging the EasyCap directly into my iPhone, but it’s not being recognized. Has anyone here successfully pulled video feeds from these old camcorders into an iPhone for recording?
Is there a specific app that supports these generic capture cards? Or do I need to switch to a different hardware setup (like an AV-to-HDMI converter)? Any advice for a smooth workflow would be appreciated!
[Attach your best photo showing the camera, the 18650 setup, and the EasyCap]

Hi everyone,
I’m working on a project to convert an old Sony Handycam (which uses NP-F / NP-FM series batteries) to run on a custom external battery pack using two 18650 cells in series (yielding around 8.4V fully charged). My main goal is to power it up long enough to digitize some old tapes via an EasyCap capture card.
However, I am heavily stuck on Sony’s "InfoLITHIUM" protection logic. Here is what I’ve tried so far today:
1 The Battery Board Attempt: I salvaged the original BMS/battery circuit board from an old dead Sony battery. At first, I soldered the 8.4V power directly to the output terminals. The camera turned on but instantly showed the blue screen error: FOR "InfoLITHIUM" BATTERY ONLY.
2 The Voltage Divider Attempt: I realized the center pin (Data/C-terminal) needed voltage. I built a voltage divider circuit to split the 8.4V in half, successfully getting 8.4V on [ + / - ] and 4.2V on the center Data pin.
3 The Result: This actually gave the camera a heartbeat! The screen turned on, showed the clock set menu, and displayed "CALCULATING BATTERY INFO..." with a green progress bar. But after 2 seconds, the camera realized it wasn't getting real digital data packets from the locked/dead original chip, and threw the InfoLITHIUM error screen again.
Some local tech groups told me that modifying the battery terminal like this is impossible because the camera requires a specific serial data handshake from the chip, not just a reference voltage.
My Questions for the Experts Here:
Is there any known way to fully spoof or bypass the InfoLITHIUM data check on the battery terminal using basic components?
Regarding the DC-IN port (the yellow rectangular/square jack on the back/side): If I bypass the battery terminal entirely and solder my 8.4V (from the 18650 pack) directly into the DC-IN pins, will the camera still look for the InfoLITHIUM chip? Or does plugging into the DC-IN automatically disable the battery check logic?
Has anyone successfully wired a custom power source directly into the DC-IN port of these early 2000s Handycams?
Any schematics, logic explanations, or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance! My camera is CCD-TRV218E PAL

I’m a vintage tech enthusiast and currently on a mission to complete my collection—I just found some original BB boxes and am now hunting for the devices to match them.
As I was looking at these phones, an idea popped into my head. We live in an era where AI is incredibly advanced, yet many of us feel "screen fatigue" from modern smartphones. I truly miss the tactile feel of a physical QWERTY keyboard.
Here’s my thought: Would it be possible to revive that "BBM feeling" by creating a dedicated, lightweight live chat application specifically for legacy BlackBerry devices?
The concept is simple:
• Minimalist: The device doesn't need many apps—just this one "Live Chat" app.
• Tactile Community: If you want to join this circle, you get a BlackBerry, install this app, and we all chat in a dedicated ecosystem.
• Back to Basics: Focus on the joy of typing and real-time connection without the distractions of modern social media.
I feel like if someone could pull this off, the community would grow incredibly fast. People are craving that authentic, tactile experience again.
Has anyone ever tried building something like this recently? Or is there an existing project that allows legacy BBOS/BB10 devices to communicate on a private modern server (like an XMPP bridge or a custom API)?

I'm looking to buy a used MacBook Pro 2018 locally. The seller mentioned that it was left unused for a long time and now it won't turn on.
The key symptom: When plugged in with a Type-C cable that has a built-in wattage display, it shows exactly 0W constantly. There is absolutely no power draw.
My question is: Since it's drawing 0W, does this mean the USB-C PD handshake isn't happening at all (which points to a logic board issue like a bad CD3215 or a short)? Or is it possible that a completely deep-discharged battery could cause a 0W reading on this specific model?
I'm trying to figure out if it's just a dead battery that needs replacing, or if the logic board is totally fried. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!

Hi /everyone, I just got my iPhone 4 and 5 running on iOS 6. Besides YouTube, what apps or games are still functional today? I'm looking for anything useful like weather fixes, social media, or even simple tools.

Any specific tweaks or alternative App Stores (like Veteris) you'd recommend to get more apps? Thanks!