r/ECU_Tuning

I have a carbureted NA engine that lost fuel in the bowls at nearly redline more than once, I saw 26:1 on the AFR gauge. I’m under the impression that with nearly zero fuel in the comb chamber the temperature shouldn’t be high enough to cause damage. Is this correct? Engine still runs fine and doesn’t appear to have any issues.

Cast pistons, iron block, aluminum heads, steel valves.

Hi everyone,

I have an original Alientech KESS3 and today I worked on a 2017 Ford Focus 1.6 Ti-VCT 125 HP (manual transmission) with a Continental EMS2204 ECU.

KESS3 identifies the ECU successfully via OBD.

ECU details:

ECU: Continental EMS2204

KESS3 Protocol: 3212

Engine: IQDB 1.6 Ti-VCT 125 HP

HW: AV61-12B684-CA

SW: F1FA-12A650-FUA

Upgrade SW: F1FA-14C204-FUA

Ford ECU P/N: F1FA-12A650-FUA

The ID operation works perfectly and the HW/SW information returned by KESS3 matches the physical ECU label.

However, under OBD operations KESS3 only gives me:

ID

Write

Recovery

There is no Read option.

KESS3 also doesn't show a Bench protocol for this EMS2204 application.

My question for other KESS3 users:

Is this normal for KESS3 Protocol 3212 / EMS2204? Does KESS3 only support OBD writing on this ECU, or should a Read/Virtual Read option normally be available?

If anyone with an original KESS3 can check the same EMS2204 / Protocol 3212 in their vehicle list and tell me what operations they have available, that would be very helpful.

I didn't attempt to write anything because I don't have an original read/backup from this ECU.

Thanks!

I'm trying to log data through the EGR using PCM Hammer and PCM Logger, but realized EGR is disabled in the ECU. I found B1301 in TunerPro that enables it which does work, but now the car runs worse and has check engine lights. I assume the ECU is using the none existing EGR to adjust timing. How do I prevent the ECU from reading the EGR while I tune it?

How much money you think i would need or is goodd to have to buy a good car that I can tune and keep. (I am from Germany)

I have a 2025 Genesis G 70 and I’m the first owner so I have the 10 year 100,000 mile warranty still active. I would really love to tune it but I’m scared to avoiding my warranty. I understand that with JB4 even if you remove it or flash it back to stock, they can still see the boost and other effects in your ECU logs. But lap3 provides a spare ECU for a fee and I’m wondering how will that look if I need #Warranty work done and I swap out my lap 3 ECU with the OEM stock one how will that look when the logs and information on the stock ECU gets read by the dealership. Has anyone had an experience with #Warranty work and having the lap3 spare ECU?

Question in the title is the short version

Long version: I purchased NGK plugs for my Kona N as one of the supporting mods for a N75 stage 2 tune. NGK specs say the plugs are .028 from the factory while N75 recommends .025 gap. I bought a gap tool and feeler gauges for iridium plugs and found that all of the plugs were .025 or .026 right out of the box. At this point I can't be sure if my feeler gauges are off by a few thousandths or if the plugs are actually at the recommended .025 gap from the factory, which leads me to 2 questions:

1. If the plugs are truly .028 like NGK says, is that .003 difference likely to cause spark blowout or other issues?

2. If that .003" is significant and needs to be corrected, what set of gauges do you recommend that can be trusted for accuracy?

EDIT: I bought one of the wire gap tools to check against my cheap feeler gauges and also borrowed some more precise digital calipers, and both of the gap tools measured .025, so that makes me assume the NGK plugs are actually gapped from factory a hair tighter than their advertised .028 right where N75 wants them.

Hi everyone, I would really appreciate if someone could help me! I swapped RB25DET from STAGEA into s13. I wanted to use STOCK ECU. I connected +,- pins to ecu, some of them are relay switched some are constant (actually i think only 1 pin is always 12V). Then before starting it with the fuel I wanted to make sure that all the coils/spark plugs work. I started to test each of 6 coil connectors with the same coil. When I crancked the engine I couldnt see any sparkplug fire. Then I thought maybe it is a CAS problem. I noticed that stagea engine has CAS with black plastic on it, but I also noticed that some engines have metal one. I remembered that I have s13 metal CAS laying around so I thought lets connect this one and spin it by hand to see if it would spark. I left the original CAS in the engine but it was not connected. I did this because I did not want to mess with its position. So I started connecting coil from 1st to 6th. Coil 1 would not fire, 2,3,4,6 would fire, coil 5 would also not fire. I put a little checkmark on each connector that worked. Then i measured voltage and compared working ones and non working ones. The thing I notice that voltage spikes on working coils would climb up to 12V but as multimeter avergaes it it sometimes shows lots of different values between 0 and 12V. The non working coils would climb up to maximum 0.1V. Ok so I thought this is the issue. I was thinking is it the problem with the wires or the ECU. I come up with idea how should I know if it is wire related or ECU. I swapped coil 1 IB with coil 2 IB pin on the ECU, so lets see if the working coil pin would run if I use IB wire of non working one and it did work. I also noticed that my coil 6 would constantly running hot (really hot, you couldnt touch it with a hand). I measure voltage with CAS sensor not spining and I noticed that coil 6 would give 1.5V all the time and climb up if I spin the CAS. I was sure it is ECU problem and I ordered an ECU from a guy who told me that he goes bigger HP and he went standalone ECU. Other ECU arrived and I connected it. I noticed that coil 6 is not getting hot anymore and it stands at 0.01V when cas is not spinning- that is how it should be. But I also noticed that still coil 1 and coil 5 would not fire. It is wierd to me that both ecu have faulty pins for those 2 coils. Does someone have some kind of Idea how to diagnose it and find out what is wrong here?

I used this guide to make the skyline engine harness connected to S13 body harness https://www.scribd.com/document/510930145/RB25-S13-Jan-10

I tested all the ECU pin voltages and all of them seems fine but only those 2 IGN pins are giving me a troubles

First choice is the Panasonic Toughbook CF-33 MK1 @ $524.00 with a 12 inch touchscreen with 1200 nits. 2 core 2.6ghz processor with 16gb ram at 1866hz.

Second choice is the Panasonic Toughbook CF-31 MK5 @ $441.00 with a 13 inch touchscreen at 1200 nits. 2 core 2.3ghz processor with 16gb ram at 1600hz.

Final choice is the Panasonic Toughbook CF-54 MK3 @ $400.00 with a 14 inch touchscreen with 1000 nits. 2 core 2.6ghz processor with 8gb ram at 1600hz.

I am open to any ideas and different choices. Is brightness the most important feature or is screen size? Any other things to consider? Am I correct in that touchscreen is not that important or useful for tuning?

Car - 2007 e60 530xi 6 speed manual n52.

I have been wanting to enjoy my car more recently, and want a burble tune for my car. It is by no means fast nor do I think it’s a race car but my primitive brain just skyrockets my dopamine when I hear burbles and decided I want them has anyone tried tuning their cars themselves here and can push me in the right direction I don’t mind doing it myself I just want to get told the easiest way to accomplish my goal right now. (Before anyone says it’s a bad idea or this and that save it Ik the consequences of burbles Ik the cats can get clogged this and that idc I just like burbles to each their own)

Hello everyone, I’m looking for a Winols course or one-on-one tutoring. If you’re a Winols expert, I need your help. DM me.

I need a laptop for tuning my car. It is running Tuner Studios. Requirements are 1.5ghtz processor. 1gb ram and a low end video card. Thats all this computer will be doing. A bigger screen would be nice but not needed

Mainly a bright screen when tuning during the daytime.

How do I test ECU on bench?

ok, I was going to say like test for ignition coil pulse but that seemed dumb.

Anyway, lets say I bought an ECU from junkyard, how do I test it before I install in a real car?

Hi I want to buy myself a BMW maybe and tune it ofc (ECU/HARDWARE) anyways I am looking for something for maybe 4000€/4200€ (I am in Germany)

I want to get a Petrol one but I am not very well in the BMW World and wanted to ask you guys for advice like

- Wich Car Modell is good

- Wich engine should I look for

- Dose it has potential for Tuning

I would appreciate it very much for every help 👍

Hi everyone I want to buy myself a car and Tune it myself (ECU/Engine stuff not ryl Outside stuff), the only thing is I dont have the biggest budget and only about 4.000€ (Germany).

I wanted to ask some of you guys with experience what cars you can recomend me and maybe help me out, I am open to any brand but i need like a 4 door and I like Petrol not Disel.

I have my eyes on maybe a Audi A6 C5 2.7T Biturbo but I am not sure.

If you guys have some Ideas or Tipps I would love to hear them

Thanks in advance