It's wild how much impact the ambient temp has on power output. I need a bigger intercooler to combat the hot summer days! What intercoolers are you guys running? I'm having a hard time finding anything other than the Forge kit for $1k
(Pic just for attention)
My car is on H&R lowering springs and I'm getting tired of the super harsh, stiff & bouncy ride. My fun-money budget is somewhat tight right now so I'm wondering where I should start to get the best value for improving ride comfort.
Do 18" wheels with more tire sidewall really help that much? It would be cheaper than suspension & also have the benefit of reducing unsprung weight depending on what wheels I got. Plus who doesn't love getting new wheels? I'm just a bit skeptical it can make a huge difference.
Coilovers are probably going to have a bigger effect on ride comfort I imagine, and I will likely get a set later even if I get new wheels & tires first, just further in the future. Are they a huge pain to install? I do most of my own work but the only suspension work I have ever done was swapping OEM struts & springs. What kits do you guys recommend? I don't want to go too cheap but I also don't want to spend $3k on KW & a canceller module.
Third option, the Mando ECS module: I have read that it improves comfort marginally but is not a huge improvement. Anyone here have experience with one?
TL;DR: do 18" wheels & tires make a big difference in comfort?
What coilover kits do you recommend around $2kish?
What foaming soaps, coatings, wheel cleaners, leather cleaners, etc is everyone using?
The closest spray paint I could find isn't an exact color match in direct sun, but when it's overcast or in shadow, the color is actually super close! Not bad for the cost of some PETG and a couple rattle cans.
Stage 2 tune from N75. Also changed oil to 5w40, put in colder NGK spark plugs, and did a single resonator delete while the car was already up. Took it on a short test drive and she rips!
Question in the title is the short version
Long version: I purchased NGK plugs for my Kona N as one of the supporting mods for a N75 stage 2 tune. NGK specs say the plugs are .028 from the factory while N75 recommends .025 gap. I bought a gap tool and feeler gauges for iridium plugs and found that all of the plugs were .025 or .026 right out of the box. At this point I can't be sure if my feeler gauges are off by a few thousandths or if the plugs are actually at the recommended .025 gap from the factory, which leads me to 2 questions:
If the plugs are truly .028 like NGK says, is that .003 difference likely to cause spark blowout or other issues?
If that .003" is significant and needs to be corrected, what set of gauges do you recommend that can be trusted for accuracy?
EDIT: I bought one of the wire gap tools to check against my cheap feeler gauges and also borrowed some more precise digital calipers, and both of the gap tools measured .025, so that makes me assume the NGK plugs are actually gapped from factory a hair tighter than their advertised .028 right where N75 wants them.
I saw an old thread where someone asked if anyone had tried this cheap 3-piece lip, and a few commenters debated buying it to try it out but no one ever updated with photos or thoughts on the quality so I gave it a shot. It's listed on AliEx for $25 but the shipping is about $70 so it was $105 USD total shipped to the states.
Quality: Not bad, the plastic (ABS) is fairly thick, not too flimsy and feels solid when all 3 pieces are screwed together. It comes finished In gloss black so you don't have to paint it, I used a ceramic spray coating to hopefully keep it glossy longer.
Fit & Mounting: Fitment is kinda buttcheeks, but it's not terrible. It mounts with double sided tape & some screws which go straight into the bumper plastic. It lines up along the front fairly well, but on the sides close to the fenders the lip does not fit the curvature of the underside of the bumper perfectly, so there are some small gaps, which aren't too noticeable, but you see them if you're looking for them.
The biggest issue is that the side pats/flares that are supposed to go over the lower edge of the fender are too short, so they sit under the fender instead. The photos on the main listing on AliEx show better fitment, and they only disclose the wonky side pats under "specifications" section which is not open by default so it's very easy to miss their disclosure about the fit.
Overall I'm fairly satisfied for $100 shipped, and I would recommend it if you're on a budget, but in my opinion it's probably worth spending another $100 for a more premium lip from a known brand.
I think I'm going to go with N75 stage 2 but still haven't made a final decision on what tune I'm going to buy. If you're running an ECU tune, share your setup & experience in the comments!
I just purchased a spare ECU for my 22 KN and I intended on sending it in to N75 for a stage 2 tune, but while I was reading about & comparing tunes from N75, Lap3, UpperMotorsports, and Cherry I came across RyansViews. Their prices are pretty attractive and from what I read in the Hyundai N Facebook groups they are using/working with a tuner from SXTH. It seems like they're pretty new to the scene though and so I haven't been able to find anyone talking about their experience with the tune, reliability, etc.
Anyone have experience with them?
I ordered the TriCut brush for my Mova P10 Pro but the vacuum pauses once or twice in every room due to "main brush wrapped" error. When I pull the brushroll off, there's little to no hair wrapped around the roll itself & the side bearings, but when I spin the small piece sticking out of the brush bearing it will spin freely for a few turns and then suddenly have a lot of resistance. When I use the brush roll that the vacuum came with, this does not happen.
Is this typical for the TriCut brush? I was simply going to return it for a refund but I'm wondering if I got a defective unit and should instead exchange it for a replacement.
Sorry for the dog-water quality photos, I was really struggling to get my camera to focus on the glass.
I've had this lamp for years but never noticed the imperfection until cleaning the glass today, I don't know if it's new or if it's been there since I got the lamp. I can't tell if this is a surface scratch, a defect from manufacturing, or a crack. It definitely catches my fingernail, and I think it looks like it's only on the surface. It's a few inches long starting just above the curved part of the base/bottom and stopping at the shoulder on the side of the globe (The red arrows in pic 3 show where the ends are)
The glass looks almost "puckered" next to the line which makes me think it's a defect in the mold, but I'm not sure how to tell.
I'm thinking about running it to full temp a few times in a bucket so if it shatters it doesn't ruin my shelf. Would you retire this lamp or keep running it?
My home is about 1700ft², single story, wood laminate & hardwood floors, no carpet other than a few rugs. I have 3 dogs so there's always hair/dust bunnies on the floor even though we vacuum twice a week. Never owned a robot vacuum before but I think it's time. Mopping is not very important to me, but would be a nice bonus if it mops well. I'd like to be able to control how much water is used during mopping or manually disable mopping since my floors are wood, and lifting the mop pads over rugs would be nice.
Hard floor performance, reliable object avoidance, and good cleaning in corners/along walls are most important to me, so is the ability to set no-go zones/virtual walls to avoid certain rooms or areas.
I'm leaning toward the Roborock QX revo from Costco since it gets decent reviews and Costco has an awesome return policy, but there's also the Dreame Govac 400 around the same price from Costco. Also considering the Mova P10 Pro, Roborock Q7 M5+, and open to any other recommendations around this price point.
If you own any of these, what has your experience been? If you bought something else in this price range & love it, what did you get?
I hope I'm just doing something wrong or there's a setting to change to make these graphs easier to read, because the alternative is that Hyundai just designed a poor UI for this. I can't view max values or select a specific chosen point on the graph for boost, HP, etc. Sliding back & forth or using the left/right arrows just jumps to a mostly random point on the graph. Zooming in/out isn't really helpful for precise selection either.
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Is this just how it is, or is there a better way?
Should I look into PDR for this door skin or just save up for a new door + paint? It seems to me that this might be too large for PDR as it's like a foot long line of dents, but even if it's not 100% gone, I'd be happy with like 80% better. I already checked junk yards/pick & pull places but this is not a very common car or color in my area so I've not had luck finding any door replacements.
What would you do?
(Sorry for posting so many pics, I was having a hard time getting the angle right for the camera to pick up the depth of the dents)
I bought a used 22 Kona N about two weeks ago. Love the car so far but it kind of rides like shit, especially in the backseat. I was looking at posts here about improving the comfort of the ride with 18" wheel & tire combos when I noticed a lot of the images I'm seeing look like they have a larger wheel arch gap. Poked my head under the car and saw my springs are blue.
Are these H&R, something else? I assume the stock springs are black.
I'm a casual racer coming from the g923 wheel/pedals/shifter. I just picked up a playseat challenge so I can finally stop racing from an office chair at my desk, and also got a fanatec CSW 2.5 for a good price so now I'm shopping for wheels (I'm aware i need a qr1 to qr2 adapter, looking at the one from simube).
I'm leaning toward the CSL P1 V2 mostly because it's the cheapest and I imagine any of these will be a big upgrade over the 923, but I have seen some reviews say it feels cheap and they ended up replacing it sooner rather than later, so I'm considering paying more for the R300 V2 or R330 V2 (or other recommendations). Is the difference in quality, more buttons/button layout, worth the $100 increase?
I don't do any competitive racing, and I mostly play dirt rally 2.0, EA WRC, Assetto corsa, Beamng.Drive, and Forza horizon when Im feeling more arcadey.
What would you recommend?