I think I'm going to go with N75 stage 2 but still haven't made a final decision on what tune I'm going to buy. If you're running an ECU tune, share your setup & experience in the comments!
I just purchased a spare ECU for my 22 KN and I intended on sending it in to N75 for a stage 2 tune, but while I was reading about & comparing tunes from N75, Lap3, UpperMotorsports, and Cherry I came across RyansViews. Their prices are pretty attractive and from what I read in the Hyundai N Facebook groups they are using/working with a tuner from SXTH. It seems like they're pretty new to the scene though and so I haven't been able to find anyone talking about their experience with the tune, reliability, etc.
Anyone have experience with them?
I ordered the TriCut brush for my Mova P10 Pro but the vacuum pauses once or twice in every room due to "main brush wrapped" error. When I pull the brushroll off, there's little to no hair wrapped around the roll itself & the side bearings, but when I spin the small piece sticking out of the brush bearing it will spin freely for a few turns and then suddenly have a lot of resistance. When I use the brush roll that the vacuum came with, this does not happen.
Is this typical for the TriCut brush? I was simply going to return it for a refund but I'm wondering if I got a defective unit and should instead exchange it for a replacement.
Sorry for the dog-water quality photos, I was really struggling to get my camera to focus on the glass.
I've had this lamp for years but never noticed the imperfection until cleaning the glass today, I don't know if it's new or if it's been there since I got the lamp. I can't tell if this is a surface scratch, a defect from manufacturing, or a crack. It definitely catches my fingernail, and I think it looks like it's only on the surface. It's a few inches long starting just above the curved part of the base/bottom and stopping at the shoulder on the side of the globe (The red arrows in pic 3 show where the ends are)
The glass looks almost "puckered" next to the line which makes me think it's a defect in the mold, but I'm not sure how to tell.
I'm thinking about running it to full temp a few times in a bucket so if it shatters it doesn't ruin my shelf. Would you retire this lamp or keep running it?
My home is about 1700ft², single story, wood laminate & hardwood floors, no carpet other than a few rugs. I have 3 dogs so there's always hair/dust bunnies on the floor even though we vacuum twice a week. Never owned a robot vacuum before but I think it's time. Mopping is not very important to me, but would be a nice bonus if it mops well. I'd like to be able to control how much water is used during mopping or manually disable mopping since my floors are wood, and lifting the mop pads over rugs would be nice.
Hard floor performance, reliable object avoidance, and good cleaning in corners/along walls are most important to me, so is the ability to set no-go zones/virtual walls to avoid certain rooms or areas.
I'm leaning toward the Roborock QX revo from Costco since it gets decent reviews and Costco has an awesome return policy, but there's also the Dreame Govac 400 around the same price from Costco. Also considering the Mova P10 Pro, Roborock Q7 M5+, and open to any other recommendations around this price point.
If you own any of these, what has your experience been? If you bought something else in this price range & love it, what did you get?
I hope I'm just doing something wrong or there's a setting to change to make these graphs easier to read, because the alternative is that Hyundai just designed a poor UI for this. I can't view max values or select a specific chosen point on the graph for boost, HP, etc. Sliding back & forth or using the left/right arrows just jumps to a mostly random point on the graph. Zooming in/out isn't really helpful for precise selection either.
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Is this just how it is, or is there a better way?
Should I look into PDR for this door skin or just save up for a new door + paint? It seems to me that this might be too large for PDR as it's like a foot long line of dents, but even if it's not 100% gone, I'd be happy with like 80% better. I already checked junk yards/pick & pull places but this is not a very common car or color in my area so I've not had luck finding any door replacements.
What would you do?
(Sorry for posting so many pics, I was having a hard time getting the angle right for the camera to pick up the depth of the dents)
I bought a used 22 Kona N about two weeks ago. Love the car so far but it kind of rides like shit, especially in the backseat. I was looking at posts here about improving the comfort of the ride with 18" wheel & tire combos when I noticed a lot of the images I'm seeing look like they have a larger wheel arch gap. Poked my head under the car and saw my springs are blue.
Are these H&R, something else? I assume the stock springs are black.
I'm a casual racer coming from the g923 wheel/pedals/shifter. I just picked up a playseat challenge so I can finally stop racing from an office chair at my desk, and also got a fanatec CSW 2.5 for a good price so now I'm shopping for wheels (I'm aware i need a qr1 to qr2 adapter, looking at the one from simube).
I'm leaning toward the CSL P1 V2 mostly because it's the cheapest and I imagine any of these will be a big upgrade over the 923, but I have seen some reviews say it feels cheap and they ended up replacing it sooner rather than later, so I'm considering paying more for the R300 V2 or R330 V2 (or other recommendations). Is the difference in quality, more buttons/button layout, worth the $100 increase?
I don't do any competitive racing, and I mostly play dirt rally 2.0, EA WRC, Assetto corsa, Beamng.Drive, and Forza horizon when Im feeling more arcadey.
What would you recommend?