u/ashbringerer

Shell is done and ready for anyone to print. I did my best to sand and polish mine. I might try to get someone with a better 3D printer to make one for me. It is designed to use the 32X cartridge doors but that needs some modification for clearance for capacitors on the COSAM board. Even still, the doors don't line up flat with the top. It will need new doors designed to be thicker to match, but I'm going to take a break from using Fusion 360 for a while. I may make a version that uses the Mega Drive Model 2 cartridge doors if people care for it?

https://www.printables.com/model/1837188-sega-neptune-replica

Excuse my air conditioner running and my phones dirty lens.
https://youtu.be/Bl8hC9PGXFE?si=g1Q1P3IGMFxRNtHO

Learning a lot by 3D printing this because it's been a nightmare. Still printing another top of the shell which is going to take two days. The problems are mostly getting things not to break easily when putting it together, so I make parts thicker which isn't 100% like the Mega Drive 2 dimensions but still works.

A lot of slicer changes I've made to boost quality and reduce time. For example, OrscaSlicer with Wave Overhangs is great at reducing the need for support but does increase print time, but also reduces the need for filament. https://github.com/dennisklappe/OrcaSlicer-WaveOverhangs

I also set the Support Base Pattern Spacing to 2mm from the default 0.2mm which not only drastically reduces the amount of filament but also reduces the time need to print. I also set the Wave overhangs line spacing to 0.25 because the default 0.35 would cause hanging.

The TECBEARS BLACK PLA Classic filament is trash. It needs to be printed at 220C because otherwise the 0.4mm nozzle would clog, and I do recommend 0.4mm. For the price of $10 it was fine for test prints, but not something I'd ever use for a real print. The layer adhesion for this is junk. https://a.co/d/00ye7sUU

The IEMAI Carbon Fiber PETG is fantastic for $18. Makes great prints that hide the layer lines, and the holes I made for the screws will actually be there, unlike TECBEARS. https://a.co/d/0ioA00Ij

I'm trying to match what I see on my AEM X-Series 30-0300NS using a LSU 4.9 Lambda on my 2002 Corvette. I'm using PCM Logger with these math values.

<Parameter

id="114B"

name="EGR Wideband A/F Ratio"

description="AEM X-Series 30-0300 via EGR"

type="PID"storageType="uint8"

bitMapped="False">

<Conversion units=":1" expression="(x/200) +10.00" format="0.00" />

</Parameter>

I found these values from watching this YouTube video. Anyone know what I should change it to match what I see on the gauge?

https://youtu.be/bgtXXMo6KNo?t=277

The cylinder like studs in my model look like foam and break very easily. One of them broke off while I was removing it from the bed. I didn't clean much of the support yet. I'm using an AnyCubic i3 Mega X with a 0.6mm nozzle with TECBEARS Matte PLA. I used OrcaSlicer. What can I do to improve this? I was thinking I could increase the radius since there's no reason for it to be that small. The print speed was set to 40-60 depending on the location. I also enabled wait for 20 seconds on layer before continuing.

I tried printing this with PETG and it was horrible due to all the stringiness, so I switched to PLA and it's also stringy. I had to make changes due to fitting, like the circuit board sat too high for the Sega CD. Also, support is the ban of my 3D printing experience. The PETG print would rip off some of the shell with the support. You can see that the letting in the front isn't well preserved either, but that maybe because I'm using a 0.6mm nozzle? This might be fine assuming everything still lines up. This took around 16 hours to print, and that's nothing compared to the estimated time for the top which is over 2 days.

My AnyCubic i3 Mega X had it's thermistor die just as it started to print this. I do have my Creality Ender 3 Pro but that's too small for this. Gotta wait for the part to come in and fix the AnyCubic. I plan to print this with PETG using a 0.6 mm nozzle and OcraSlicer, but I don't know of anything better. I'm not a 3D printing expert to know what's the best settings to print this with.

I could upload what I have but I'm almost certain something isn't going to line up properly, which is why I want to print it first. I also haven't figured where to upload the model. There are buttons, Sega CD cover, and LED diffuse to go with this.

I'm trying to find the font for this so I can use it in Fusion 360. It's from the front of a Sega Genesis Model 2.

I took out my inverter to replace the thermal paste and I can't figure out where this goes?

**EDIT**

Figured it out. Goes on top of the ECU to hold the beauty cover one.

I'm trying to extrude the highlighted part to make a grove around the cartridge area but it's not giving me that option. I've uploaded the .f3d file on GBATemp if anyone wants to download it and look at it. My guess is that curved surfaces can't be extruded?

https://gbatemp.net/threads/sega-neptune-building-a-sega-neptune.635447/page-2#post-10883333

I can't seem to extrude most of this model, with the exception of the bottom. The only reason I can think of is because most of the model is using Fit Point Spline? The bottom of the model I did use some Lines as they didn't need to be curved. I included an image of what I'm trying to replicate.

Here's a link to GBATemp where the .f3d file can be downloaded.

https://gbatemp.net/threads/sega-neptune-building-a-sega-neptune.635447/page-2#post-10883333

I used stitch to put it together but I want it solid so I can cut it in half and do things like Fillet and Extrude? My goal is to make a top and bottom shell and use Shell to make it hollow.

Trying to fix this for my nephew and it only lasts for 3 minutes before the screen turns off. I know it's not the PC because the PC I tested already has a RX 470 4GB and that works fine. This was a miners card so I figured I'd test some capacitors and the eight towards the GPU core are shorted and shorting to ground. The pins underneath are reading zero ohms. Is that the problem?

I'm trying to 3D model the housing and I need some good side and rear photos of the Neptune. A better front photo would be good too. It has to be direct and not tilted in any direction. You can't view any other sides of the Neptune.

Been a while but I finally got it working and stable. Main issue was crystal oscillator was bad, because I originally installed it backwards. That got me a black screen where there wasn't any picture before. I ended swapped all the Genesis parts with another one I bought off Ebay and still no difference. I did swap the other Genesis parts and got it working with a new crystal oscillator, so no Genesis's were harmed in the making of this Neptune. Turns out, I didn't put enough solder on the 6800 chip. The pins on it are kinda vertical and hard to tell if there's a proper connection. Also there was a bad connection for the resistor packs that go to the Genesis VDP.

The 32X didn't work initially either as I found a number of bad connections for the 32X parts as well. Eventually I got it working but not stable. 32X would freeze after 5-7 minutes of use. The 32X ram chips are also vertical style and I just flooded it with solder to make sure they had a proper connection too. Also, I put a much larger capacitor for C525 because I only had a large one laying around. I ended up putting a proper sized capacitor just to make sure.

Here's a link to a video of it working. Next step is to create to Neptune housing because I ain't paying $300. Also I can share it for others to print as well. Gonna take me a while since my experience with 3D printing is making car parts.
https://imgur.com/a/v3LTzzN