



Some photos i took, the camera is a sony alpha a6400
my clutch pedal position switch went bad a lil bit ago and I was trying to figure out why my car kept having no crank no turnover problems and it turned out to be this switch and ever since then I’ve had a paperclip bypassing it so I can keep using my car but I’m trying to replace the switch and cant find it ANYWHERE Ive tried carparts . com, 3swarehouse, and 3sx performance and NOTHING if anyone knows where to find one pleeeeeease let me know🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Eventually I do want to get the car repainted,
But what I'm asking about right now is...
For sure the top and bottom metal trims I'm painting black, they were rusty but I sanded it off.
But what about that gray area?
It's been that grayish color since I bought the car, and since the car is currently running pretty well I want to start cosmetic things
So thoughts, do I paint that Black? Red? Or repaint it Gray?
Thank you
I have a 93 3kgt SL, and im looking at exhausts. I want to keep the quad tip look, with no big fart cans out the back, nice quad tip sleek look like oem. And mostly what I see online is dual exit fart can looking stuff. Anyone have any quad tip styles they like? My budget is 700$-1700$.
Trying to remove the fuel pump. Of course the connection is not budging. My thought is to cut the line between the blue painters tape and just get a rubber line to reconnect. Has anyone tried this before?
Been dying for a Mitsubishi whether it was a Starion, 3000GT, Galant, Evo or Eclipse and I finally came across the perfect deal. Absolutely in love with her!!
So I just turned 16 and for a year have been wrenching on another 1991 3000gt VR4 that I got for 10k paid half with my Dad and it’s been a shit show frames bent no front aero or active exhaust seller lied on many parts and very hard to know what’s true when rebuilding the whole engine and bringing close to stock my dad and I have been more of talking over the car debating selling and buying another then was surprised at 16 to get a fully original one for 16,900 my question is I know I’m spoiled but how bad I know a civic for 2026 is like 25,000 should I keep both as one for a project and one to drive or sell the project and pay off the new one overall I just want to ask how spoiled is it or paying it off is okay over the summer for one or both?
95 Mitsubishi 3000GT non turbo DOHC Auto factory yellow.
She needs a block. But she'll be running by the end of the year.
I recently got a laser scanner and am going to start scanning as many parts as I can and uploading them so everyone can download them. Id like to know what things everyone wants scanned most and i will prioritize those things.
As of now, I have scaned the 1g vr4 caliper, the vr4 knuckle, and the sl knuckle with the hub installed. Unfortunately I do not have a laptop, so anything you want scaned has to fit inside my door lol and be light enough to bring up a flight of stairs, but other than that even big things are okay..., door cards, center consol, anything you guys want, just let me know.... I also need to own the item ofc, though I have a lot of spare parts and 3 3000gts. This includes engine parts, I have four 2 bolt NA engines and one 4 bolt tt engine.
As of now, im just going to post everything on thingiverse. That may change though, we will see.
Photo taken by me at south oc cars and coffee
Nice to see a clean stealth :)
I think Buy a 3000gt sl for my first car, the price aré 2900, looks nice but idk how much time o experience need them
So many people are telling me they dont want the brake kit on the sl knuckles and they want a version for vr4 knuckles, i understand the wheel hub is easier to replace on the vr4, but the ears are much larger and its just not possible with these calipers.... because the wheel hub bolts on. I thought, maybe that could be used to tie into for an adapter, cut one ear off, and use the other. What do you all think? Is this jank? It would require two longer hub bolts, but i cant see any reason immediately why this wouldent work.... youd just have to cut your knuckles unfortunately.
This also gives the option to mount a lower or higher caliper, so whichever one you think is cooler (not center tho)
Lmk what you all think, thanks again :)
*The example images i made are in the higher position, it should be easy to imagine what a lower position would look like*
Hi brains trust
I’m based in Australia and recently took delivery of the JDM spec 1994 twin turbo.
It’s in very good condition inside and out, but there are a few gremlins I’d like to fix and I need help sourcing parts.
Many thanks in advance if you can help.
Also if you see me out and about in Adelaide come say hi.
Cheers
Almost done with a keyless entry mod in my ’92, but I bought a 94 receiver which only accepts a 2 button key fob. Model number G8D-281M-A and FCC ID E4EG8DA.
Some pictures from when I purchased it a year ago in Japan to now. Full build on Instagram @vadr_gto cheers! May the force be with you.
hey guys I’ve been thinking about selling my VR4 recently since I have been getting busy in life, drives great! She’s sitting at 150kmiles and recently had some engine maintenance to keep her healthy such as
- Mitsubishi oem service kit with water pump
- oem valve stem seals
-gasket valve covers from 3sx
- 3sx tune up kit w/ platinum plugs
- head cam caps from 3sx
- walbro fuel pump kit from 3sx ( including Hotwire kit and fuel filter )
- 3sx side mount intercooler kit ( full kit with all metal piping )
THESE WERE DONE 2 MONTHS AGO ^^^^
some previous works includes
- borla exhaust from previous owner ( have videos of wanna hear )
- 3rd gen lifters
I do love this car a lot, I drive her on the weekends so I’m just trying to see what I can get! If nothing seems appealing I’m gonna hold on to her
I am getting very close the the point where I will start ordering CNC parts and testing them on the car. before I do that, I need to get some information from anyone who would be interested in a kit like this:
how much would you realistically want to spend? I know cars are expensive to work on, and my goal with this was to make an affordable kit, But I also need to make sure im making a kit that is sensible for the people who want it, im not gonna cut 50 dollars on a feature everyone would be willing to pay for; regardless, i am rather confident I can make this kit cost less than other big brake kits, ESPECIALY compared with ones that are equivalently sized, etc.
how important is it for there to be an option for this to fit oem wheels (with a smaller rotor; this one is 15in)?
If I sold this as a kit, how much would you want it to come with. do you want to source your own calipers and rotors and only receive the bracket, mounting hardware, centering ring, etc. the reason I ask this is because there are many different caliper and rotor options. you can buy rebuilt calipers for like 150, and new ones anywhere from 350 to 500. you can buy decent normal rotors for 50 dollars each, or Brembo ones for 130, or fully floating for about 500. do you want it to include brake proportioning valves? brake lines? brake pads????
do you want this to be fully open so anyone can see all of the files, cnc their own bracket, etc? originally that was the plan, so anyone who needs to save money can. Then, id also offer it as a kit for anyone who wants to support me or just doesn't wanna source everything individually, but someone mentioned to me that it would be pretty easy for another company or person to just start selling them, which isnt be the intention of opening this project up. Ive spent a lot of money and especially time on this; it would be very frustrating if someone just made a copy and started selling it.
is anyone interested in testing? I cant promise this means a working kit right away; however, if the bracket changes, most of the parts should still transfer over to the final version. I have already tried the adapter on two different knuckles and the casting varies enough to where it doesn't fit on one but it does on the other. its an easy fix, just give more clearance over the casting, but these are only things I can know with testing.
general info for anyone who hasn't seen my posts before and wants details - this is a 15in brake kit using CTSV 6 piston calipers, and 2014 mustang gt500 rotors. because the kit is so large, you must use FWD knuckles with the kit. If you have an AWD car, it is possible to swap FWD knuckles on, and this would be a good time to do wheel bearings and CV axels too. you will also need aftermarket wheels, to my knowledge no stock wheels will fit this kit; some flow formed/forged 18in wheels will fit, most 19in wheels will probably fit. (the kit requires an INNER wheel barrel >=17in)
Ive made the kit in a way that no modification will be required; however, casting marks may need to be removed, I know for sure there is a letter mark on the 1991 and 1992 SL knuckle, but it is very very easy to remove. I filed it down, with the knuckle still on the car in less than five minutes with an old hand file from Walmart
Im sorry this is so long. Given its nature, I wanted to make sure anyone reading wouldn't have to go through all of my old posts to understand what is going on and I also need this information before I make some fundamental design decisions.
if you want more details or have questions don't hesitate to DM me.