![[Xbox Series X] is this serious damage? How much could it cost to repair?](https://preview.redd.it/5b3l45kw8hbh1.jpeg?auto=webp&s=6c815e782c1bd2c0afc5c222f33f7c4ddbe61d93)
It happened an hour ago, when i tried to pick up my Xbox and it fell onto the HDMI cable which I haven't unplugged from the console port. The Xbox has turned on, but isn't displaying any imagery.
It seems I can't find the right place for this little guy inside my ps2 slim. Could somebody help me out? No matter how I try, it always ends up being loose or skewed. Thanks in advance!
I took a batch of GameCube Game Boy Players (DOL-017, the base attachment that plays Game Boy / Color / Advance carts) to the bench for a recap. These stood out for one reason: they are the first units I have ever handled that genuinely had leaking caps, judging by the smell the moment I lifted them off the boards.
They are all SMD electrolytics, so it was a straightforward desolder-and-replace with a Console5 GameCube GB Player cap kit. I tested afterwards, and everything works fine.
One of the units had a second problem: it would not boot games, and instead kept throwing up the Nintendo logo with corrupted graphics. That turned out to be the cartridge slot, oxidised and dirty. Once I cleaned the slot out, the carts booted and the logo rendered correctly. Tested with Minish Cap and Game Boy Tetris running through the player.
Has anyone else found leaking caps on these, or did I just get an unlucky batch? Curious how common it actually is on the GB Player.
Bought used ps recently and had issues with green areolas at the last of us 2 played 30 minutes and it started happening. Then played world of tanks modern armour and all screen was in black shimmering squares
Hello everyone,
I recently bought a used PS5 with a known defect. I was already aware of the issue before buying it because the price was much lower than usual.
Before purchasing it, I asked the seller some questions. He told me the console had only about one month of use and that the problem was that it would turn on and then shut off. He said he tried to use the warranty but wasn't able to, so he took it to a repair technician. According to him, the technician couldn't find the problem, so he decided to sell it instead of spending more time and money on it.
When the console arrived, I turned it on and it worked for about 2 minutes. After that, the image froze and I had to force it off. It kept behaving like that: sometimes it would boot, but after a short time the image would freeze.
I decided to open it and clean it. The inside was 100% clean and looked practically brand new. I kept testing it a few more times and the same thing happened. Eventually, one time it lasted about 5 minutes before freezing again. After that, it stopped displaying any video at all. Now it only turns on and the blue light flashes forever.
After researching the issue, I found that it could be related to the liquid metal or overheating. So I decided to completely disassemble the console and clean off the old liquid metal. However, since I didn't have new liquid metal yet, I temporarily applied high-quality thermal paste instead. I know this probably wasn't the best decision, but it's the same thermal paste I use on my Intel i9-14900KF, which is a very hot CPU. My idea was simply to see whether it would allow the console to stay on for longer.
I carefully reassembled everything, making sure to avoid static electricity and double-checking all the connections. However, now when I power it on, it only flashes the blue light indefinitely. It's been two days, and every time I try to turn it on, it just keeps blinking blue forever.
Today I connected it to a smart TV, and the TV recognizes it as a PlayStation 5, and selecting the HDMI input automatically powers the console on.
I've already ordered new liquid metal, which should arrive tomorrow. Until then, I've decided not to power the console on anymore. I'll wait for the liquid metal, open it again, remove the thermal paste, and reapply liquid metal properly.
Has anyone experienced something similar or have any idea what the issue could be? Also, could temporarily using thermal paste instead of liquid metal have made the problem worse?
The console is a 2025 PS5 Slim (new model).
Also, the inside of the console didn't look repaired or damaged in any way. There were no signs of burned components, corrosion, or previous work. It genuinely looked like a brand-new console with what could be a factory defect. Of course, it's also possible that the previous owner accidentally caused the problem, but he insists he never did anything to it.
Hi everyone,
I'm looking for some help with a DualSense controller after replacing both analog sticks with Hall effect joysticks.
Here are the symptoms:
The controller is detected by the PS5 and works over USB.
The orange charging LED turns on when connected to USB.
Without the battery connected, there is no charging animation.
With the battery connected, the charging animation appears.
However, the controller will not power on from the battery alone.
I left it charging for over 2 hours with no change.
Haptic feedback/vibration does not work.
I inspected both sides of the motherboard. I don't see any missing SMD components, lifted pads, or obvious solder bridges.
I also reflowed several solder joints to make sure they were making good contact.
The problem started immediately after replacing the joysticks.
Has anyone experienced this before?
So my ps5 disc unit wont accept my discs; if I try to insert one it just wont go in, like there's already a disc in it.
What happens is that when I attempt this, the software thinks that the disc got "sucked" and display the error "unreadable disc" (but no disk is in it!!)
So I just opened the unit and was looking for the problem. I find that this mechanism is stucked and wont move. Im usare about it, but shouldnt it be moving freely?
https://snescentral.com/pcbboards.php?chip=SHVC-1A3B-13
So this is the board from Final Fantasy Mystic quest. If anyone could help me identify the resistor next to D1 or D2, it's the short one near the button battery. On my actual board, one of the leads is broken and even Chatgpt can't identify it because of it discoloration. Its basicially a single yellow or orange band.
thanks in advance.
What do I do to the gold circles?
can any of y’all help me with this? I’ll just explain it. My dad a couple years ago he bought a PS3 superslim from a garage sale. I don’t know if he was gonna play on it or use it for parts. It was really cheap though so I don’t know.
A couple days ago, I decided to hook up his PS3 fat, one of the first models and while doing that I saw his super slim and I wanted to plug that up
I found the figure 8 cord plugged it into the TV with HDMI. The red light was on. I tapped it and it just turned green, but it wasn’t sending any signal to my TV. Nothing happened on my TV screen, but the fan was going turned green. it was clearly plugged in and I also tried a whole different figure 8 cord but nothing happened
Do you think y’all could help me with this please do I would be so happy 🥹
Hello everyone,
I’m an electronics repair technician, and I’d like to share a case involving an Xbox Series X that may help others dealing with a similar issue.
The problem started after routine maintenance. I decided to replace the thermal paste and the thermal interface material on the memory chips. I used MX-7 thermal paste and UPSIREN U6 PRO thermal putty. The console was disassembled very carefully according to the service procedure. While I had it apart, I also cleaned all dust from the console, including the cooling system and the power supply unit (PSU).
After reassembly, the Xbox powered on and appeared to work normally. However, after about 10–15 minutes of playing Cyberpunk 2077, the console suddenly shut down. There was no overheating warning, no error message, and the fan never ramped up to maximum speed. The console simply lost power as if it had been unplugged from the wall.
What made the situation even stranger was that after the shutdown, the power button became completely unresponsive. The only way to turn the console back on was to disconnect it from AC power for a few seconds and then reconnect it. After that, it would start normally again and run until the next shutdown.
My first assumption was that I had made a mistake during reassembly. I took the console apart again and carefully inspected everything: heatsink installation, thermal paste coverage, memory contact, connectors, cables, and overall assembly. Everything was exactly as it should be.
At that point, I started researching the issue. Many forum posts and repair discussions pointed toward the power supply as a possible cause, so I decided to investigate the PSU in detail.
After disassembling the PSU, I noticed that the lower side of the board was attached to the plastic housing. I carefully separated it and found a thin metal heatsink attached to the underside of the PCB. To properly inspect the board, I removed this heatsink. Underneath was a factory-applied compound that felt like a mixture of silicone and plaster.
I then powered the PSU outside of the console and measured the output voltage with a multimeter that I had previously verified against a laboratory power supply.
The output voltage measured approximately 11.20 V instead of the expected 12 V.
This immediately caught my attention because, according to repair videos and diagnostic information available online, a healthy Xbox Series X PSU should output a voltage very close to 12 V, with only minor variation.
Next, I started examining the thermal behavior of the components. After removing part of the factory compound from the back side of the PCB, I noticed that one of the power devices became noticeably warm even with no load connected. Its temperature reached approximately 60–65 °C while the PSU was simply connected to AC power.
At that point, I was almost convinced that the PSU itself was faulty and would need replacement.
However, before ordering a new PSU, I decided to perform a proper load test.
For the load, I used automotive headlight bulbs (H4 and H11). The total load was approximately 225 watts, which is very close to the rated output capability of the Xbox Series X PSU. To simulate realistic operating conditions, I added a small cooling fan to provide airflow similar to what the PSU receives inside the console.
To my surprise, the PSU handled the 225 W load without any issues. It ran for more than 30 minutes continuously and never shut down or entered protection mode. Output voltage under load remained stable at approximately 11.8 V.
Afterward, I checked the temperatures of the power components again.
Interestingly, the component that had previously reached 60–65 °C without load no longer appeared to be the main source of heat. Instead, I discovered four 8-pin power MOSFETs located near the edge of the PCB that were running significantly hotter than everything else.
Their temperatures reached approximately 90–95 °C.
That was the moment I began to suspect that the issue might not be an electrical failure of the PSU, but rather a thermal management problem. The construction of the underside of the board and the factory heat-transfer compound made me question whether heat was being removed efficiently from those components.
As an experiment, I decided to improve the cooling of the PSU's underside.
I thoroughly cleaned all contact surfaces, replaced the original heat-transfer material with quality thermal pads, ensured proper contact with the components, and reinstalled the original thin metal heatsink. I was careful to preserve the factory design while significantly improving thermal transfer.
After reassembling both the PSU and the console, I launched Cyberpunk 2077 again.
Before this modification, the Xbox would shut down consistently after 10–15 minutes.
After improving the PSU cooling, I played Cyberpunk 2077 for more than three hours straight with ray tracing enabled. The console was connected to a 120 Hz display and running at 1440p resolution.
There was not a single shutdown, restart, or stability issue during the entire test.
The exhaust air temperature from the console remained around 53 °C.
As of now, the issue appears to be completely resolved.
I am not claiming that this is a universal fix for every Xbox Series X shutdown problem. However, in my specific case, the root cause appears to have been insufficient heat dissipation from several power MOSFETs on the underside of the PSU.
If your Xbox Series X:
Shuts down only under heavy gaming loads,
Does not display an overheating warning,
Requires complete power removal before it can be turned back on,
then I would recommend checking not only the console’s cooling system, but also the PSU itself, including output voltage, thermal interfaces, and heat dissipation on both sides of the board.
Of course, working on a power supply requires proper knowledge and experience. An incorrect repair can damage the PSU, the motherboard, or the entire console. Everything described above is simply my personal experience and the solution that worked in my particular case.
I hope this helps someone else avoid hours of troubleshooting.
Additional Information
Here are the YouTube videos that helped me diagnose the PSU and that I recommend watching before attempting to disassemble or work on an Xbox Series X power supply.
Video 1:
https://youtu.be/U7yh91AcWZg?is=gTVTbtfx\_FdQITnL
Video 2:
https://youtu.be/p46xclMmMb0?is=KSz5dOVe4XzWoLsK
If anyone is interested, my power supply was the same model shown in the second video.
Warning: Even after disconnecting the PSU from the wall outlet, dangerous voltage can remain stored inside its capacitors. The power supply can still deliver an electric shock even when it is unplugged. If you do not have experience working with power electronics, do not attempt to disassemble or repair the PSU yourself.
Hi guys, my ps4 is stuck in safe mode, I’ve tried everything. And what is a usb storage device going to do? I’ve tried initializing it and nothing works it just stays stuck in safe mode. I would appreciate any advice or help.
EDIT: I FUCKING GOT IT YALL! LETS GOOOOOOOOOOOO. THANK YOU EVERYBODY!
I have a small project today and would like to fix it. So far both DS Lite wont turn on the other on has loos power button. I already tried the AC adapter and still wont turn on what would be the problem ?.
For the GBA tried putting fresh batteries and it wont turn on.
Both of the console we're kept away for years in a drawer.
im getting this massage every time when i turn ps on, i restart it multiple times but this pop up again.Disc drive is empty.i take off disc drive from my ps slim and put it back AND AGAIN THIS…im going crazy
Hi everyone, I’m looking at a lot of consoles with this description and I was wondering if anyone has any ideas or theories about the causes and fixes for these issues (mostly the slim as they say very few words about the fat). I haven’t purchased them yet but I plan to do a syscon read.