r/consolerepair

Hello I have been trying to loosen the HDMI port since it broke a couple of days ago. No matter what I do it doesn't seem to come out although its moving over to the side a little not sure if it was because I keep moving it or the heat. I have been watching a few YouTube videos on it. It said to use a heat gun which i did and its not loosening as it should. I have used flux, solder, tried to remove the solder.

Is this copy of Pokémon Ruby something I can repair or is this way too far gone? Friend gave this to me for testing purposes and I popped it open to find tons of rust.

I bought a set of replacement parts years ago and now came the time to replace the stick of my controller. Both of the analogue sticks from the set get stuck like that despite being unused, I thought it wouldn't bother me so I already installed one of the sticks into the controller but it turns out it does bother me.

I can't seem to figure out what causes the issue and what to do to fix it

Hi, i was wondering if this is a cap or not as it's shorted. Was should i do? Can i just remove it?

The switch was left uncharged and no power for a long period of time. Upon pressing power button, i got a little red icon battery that mean discharged. Plugged charger and nothing for 4 hours.

already took it apart and cleaned the rollers and rubber band with isopropyl alcohol and removed dust. Now it at least ejects the game, but still can't fully load it in. What should I do? Replace the rollers or am I missing something

Hello everbody!

Been having issues with my ps5 lately where my console shuts off in the middle of sessions. I fixed it for a bit by opening my ps5 and cleaning all the way down to the heatsink which fixed the problem for a week.

Now a week has passed and I'm getting the same crashes again so i decided to take a look at my liquid metal and there's this dry looking spot. Is this bad or is that how it's supposed to look.

Any help is appreciated!

Hey everyone,

Wanted to share my experience with my PS5 Slim. The console has been used for about a year, kept horizontal, and used purely for casual gaming (played 2-3 times a week for 3-4 hours of game sessions).

I decided to open it up to check the state of the liquid metal, and I was genuinely shocked by what I found.

The liquid metal had migrated heavily, pooling around the edges and leaving a significant dry, oxidized spot right in the center of the die. The heatsink had the exact mirror image of this pooling.

I cleaned everything up thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol but there is still a weird burn mark left on the APU and Heatsink. I applied the PTM7950 pad after.

Results: After playing Resident Evil 4 remake for about 3 hours in resolution mode with ray tracing enabled, the APU temp is completely under control. The fan is quiet and idle, and the exhaust heat feels perfect.

In theory, I'll never have to worry about the liquid metal pooling or leaking out on the motherboard again and I won't have to replace the PTM7950 again too, unless I unmount the heatsink for any future repairs that may arise (hopefully not).

If you're using your PS5 for a while, it might be worth checking the thermal state! I bought my PTM7950 from MODDIY to ensure its authenticity. I don't know how PTM from other sources would work but this one works like a charm.

I disassembled the quest 2 trying no fix the charging port (i failed) now I'm trying to put it back but i can't figure out what skrew goes where.

I searched online on guides and shit but none of them say what size/type of skrew goes where

I bought two broken down PS4s some time ago, with parts from both I made one "working one" which I managed to jailbreak since it had been unused for a long time.

Yesterday, I tried for the first time to insert a disk in the disk drive, but not only did it not pull it in but it also scratched the hell out of a brand new disk, deep scratches.

I opened the drive and found a spring which had its end pointing towards the disk, that solved the scratching issue. I also cleaned the rollers which solved the pulling issue.

When I plugged it in again, I noticed it made weird noises and didn't spin the disk, so I found a YouTube video that suggested to replace the magnet in the drive lid, so I simply took out and placed it again.

After all that, the issue persists, I found some comments that said that some taps on the ps4 case could fix it but didn't work.

I assume it's not locking in the disk properly but I'm not sure. The spinning sounds weak too.

I will attach a video, the first half of it is from when I had cleaned the rollers and fixed the spring. The second half is after I had replaced the magnet and cleaned the lens.

If you have any ideas on what it could be, I would really appreciate if you shared them.

PS: sorry if my grammar is not perfect, it's been some time since I last spoke English

My PS5 had overheating issues so I opened it up & changed the Liquid Metal. Now when playing games the fan goes full power all the time. The console is cool & the air coming out isn’t hot like it was before. Any ideas?

So as you can see in the video when I try to turn on the controller it flashes maybe once or twice then switches off. It says charge the controller but it is charged. Im using the original cable, swapped the battery and cleaned the usb port.

The cable works fine with my other controller.

Also when the cables not connected, the controller does nothing. No flashing light. Any suggestions?

Doing a USB-C mod on a DSi and ripped the mounting/grounding pad off the board while removing the old port.

Current wiring: VBUS to the left side of F1, GND to the big square pad (photos attached). F1 has continuity, wires have continuity, using a dumb USB-A to C cable. But I'm reading 0V at the breakout board pins with the cable plugged in, and the console does nothing — no orange light.

What's the fix here? Is that square pad actually a valid ground point, and if not, where should I run the ground instead? Anything else I should be checking?

Thanks!

Hello to all, I am here seeking advice. I believe I botched my first picofly attempt on a switch lite. I had already done around eight v1 and v2 switches and have not had a problem yet. this was my first attempt on a lite. it was all working fine before the picofly but when I was done with it the screen looked very dim and flickering. so I decided to rewind my steps and removed the mod chip carefully. but the error still persisted. I thought maybe you could provide some advice on what the problem might be? video attached.

I was doing a routine check up on all my 3ds games and one of them came up with this error code but the opening movie for the game still played out all the way but when it's time for the menu to pop up this happens is there a way to fix it?