Lost fuel at 5k rpm under load NA engine

I have a carbureted NA engine that lost fuel in the bowls at nearly redline more than once, I saw 26:1 on the AFR gauge. I’m under the impression that with nearly zero fuel in the comb chamber the temperature shouldn’t be high enough to cause damage. Is this correct? Engine still runs fine and doesn’t appear to have any issues.

Cast pistons, iron block, aluminum heads, steel valves.

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u/ForeskinForeman — 1 day ago

In my attempt at unc maxxing I bought a pair of old dye pants that are way too big in the waist, and have this type of belt. Do I have any options to use a different belt? This one is not small or strong enough.

u/ForeskinForeman — 12 days ago

[wtb] IN HYDRO tank with or w/o regulator and elbow pads

Recently got back into the sport and needing a tank, I have a regulator so open to tank only but will purchase either. Also looking for elbow pads with thumb hole.

Also need podpack!

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u/ForeskinForeman — 18 days ago

Opinions on halo too

I need a tank and loader for my glory day setup as I get back into the sport. I want a halo too, I don’t care for the new loaders that all look exactly the same as each other. But I am weary of the halo being outdated or something? I’m assuming it’s heavier and I know it’s harder to clean because of the shell design.

Is it a perfectly fine loader to use at 12bps or less? It’s significantly cheaper than the other options.

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u/ForeskinForeman — 28 days ago

Classic car has two spots with this, is there any remedy that doesn’t involve a respray?

u/ForeskinForeman — 2 months ago

What is the most reliable and serviceable 2005-10 era marker an old man can get?

I am wanting to relive the NPPL days of my youth and get back out there. Every new gun looks like a version it’s competitor, boring. No macroline, luxe-ish shape. Very lame. I’m seeing older egos have issues with solenoids, Timmy’s are astronomical in price, dm7’s still look great. And apparently sft/nxt shockers are $800 now?

I was told modern guns are super reliable which is great because the ones I played with weren’t exactly reliable but they ripped 25bps all day. I love my marq and halo b. But the new shit is mad boring. There is a few luxe’s for $500 or less on eBay that I actually like. I always wanted to try one when they came out.

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u/ForeskinForeman — 2 months ago

I’m on ep8s4

Every single person is an incredible piece of shit. Except Willa who is some sort of aloof, dipshit??? I have no idea. Very attractive woman.

10/10 show.

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u/ForeskinForeman — 2 months ago

But of a strange over-cooling scenario I am dealing with

I have a Pantera with a large fluidyne radiator up front, 427 Windsor in the back. Car runs absolutely tits, stays cool in warm weather etc. however, when driving to work at 45-50°f the coolant will not get above 160° at highway speeds and will even drop down to 140°f. I am concerned about damaging piston ring and bore seal with coolant that low.

I am replacing the ac compressor this weekend so I will have the firewall out and thus have access to the thermostat. I am planning to put a 180° thermostat in. I have to assume that there is a 160° with large holes drilled in it that is allowing excessive coolant to bypass it. If it had a 160 in it with no holes, shouldn’t the coolant hover closer to 160 rather than dipping down to 140? Am I wrong to be concerned about damage that may have occurred already with driving it several times to work under these conditions?

To clarify with anyone (Wyatt, before you come in here screeching like a lunatic) who may be curious, I was having issues with the water temperature gauge reading higher than usual when the headlights were on, which I have very recently fixed. So I had previously been seeing 160-180° in early morning highway drives. When in reality it was more like 160-140°.

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u/ForeskinForeman — 2 months ago

Qft fast idle cam increases rpm too high after choke plate opens

I have a low idle vacuum 427 Windsor that is a bit of a hassle to cold start under 50°f. Makes about 10” of vacuum at idle, warm idle speed is 1000rpm.

It will cold start extremely well and stay at 1500rpm, but as the choke plate opens and the engine begins to warm the rpm increases to ~2000rpm which is too high for me on a cold engine. It’s also incredibly loud at 4:30 in the morning so I feel a bit bad when I take it to work. I was under the impression the fast idle rpm should begin to decrease when warming up. But it seems that the as the air speed increases from the home plate opening the rpm increases alongside it. And if I bump the fast idle off via the pedal then the idle rpm drops to about 600 and the car is incredibly unhappy. What am I doing wrong?

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u/ForeskinForeman — 3 months ago
▲ 2 r/tires

I know I need different tires, but what are my chances of getting this hole plugged/patched?

u/ForeskinForeman — 3 months ago
▲ 8 r/Exhaust+1 crossposts

I have a Pantera, it is extremely loud. The exhaust is about 2.5’ long and it sounds kinda like a boat, which I do not like. There is no room for an x pipe because I intend to keep the trunk functional. The exhaust is a glorified straight pipe. I am planning to use either magnaflow or stainless bros mufflers, with acerace tubing and bellows. I need the quietest mufflers I can get that are 18-20” in length, 3” inlet and ideally dual 2.5” outlet. Any insight is appreciated.

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u/ForeskinForeman — 4 months ago