
2465
Love it, just gotta figure out how to not break my tools when sizing this strap down. Paid a little extra to get the vintage Casio band, have a ton of them and this is the only one that’s ever pulled hair out of my arm. 9/10

Love it, just gotta figure out how to not break my tools when sizing this strap down. Paid a little extra to get the vintage Casio band, have a ton of them and this is the only one that’s ever pulled hair out of my arm. 9/10
Mine is my GMW-B5000D-1C that’s had some mods to look like the Porter (GMW-B5000TFC). Close second is my GW-5000-1jf
I’m a big fan of the a155. I’ve got one that’s in very good condition but I snagged this one off eBay for about $15. The chrome on the case is in rough shape, and since I had an a158 I wasn’t wearing, I figured I’d give a go at swapping the crystal, module, and band onto the a158 case
Aside from the a155 case cover not fitting on the a158 case (screw holes don’t line up properly) everything else went extremely well! The crystal is a tad convex now—the heat needed to loosen the 40 year-old glue and the pressure from my thumbs warped it a tad but it’s not super noticeable.
Overall, a pretty easy swap!
Module: B5000, Case: B5000D, Clothes: B5000MB. Really like that the hardware is chrome to match the bezel’s face
Looks better on her anyway
Also you could just go the store yourself
I guess I’m too good at this doctoring thing
Neither of the watches pictured are Skmeis but with how comparable Skmei and Sanda watches are in their emulation of Casio and how (thankfully) lax the mod team is here, I figured I’d be okay to share my thoughts.
The video included on the Sanda 2216 page caught my eye for having an essentially identical look in the top right complication (top left on the Casio since they’re mirrored), having 10 “pizza slice” segments which coordinate their on/off periods with the seconds when viewing time keeping mode as well as the stopwatch. I own a Skmei 2347 (2nd pic) which I attempted to black-out the top right complication because it randomly flashes incoherent shapes which annoys me to no end. Makes it look cheap.
Like Skmei, Sanda nailed the module emulation: when pressing the “mode” button on the Casio you are cycled through (in order): world time, alarm, countdown timer, and the stopwatch. This is emulated exactly in the Sanda. They even copied the counter-clockwise rotation of segments in the top right complication as well as the higher-pitched beep to signal you’ve circled back to the time keeping mode.
Even setting up the watch is identical—the sequence begging with the seconds, DST, home time zone, hours, minutes, 12/24hr, year, month, day, and backlight duration are identical. I’m very impressed! You can even go up/down when adjusting rather than cycling through in one direction (same as Skmei also).
The band is worse, the display is a tad faint. It doesn’t keep time as well but it’s only 2 seconds slow after 2.5 days and it’s easy to adjust.
The back light is green and SUPER bright, even having a bit of a fade out at the end. The chirp/beep is very similar to Casios, and honestly unless you’re looking at it closely no one would be able to tell it’s a knock-off. MOSTLY BECAUSE OF THE NORMAL COMPLICATION lol
Anyway, thanks for reading. And Skmei—PLEASE—stop making your useless complications flash. Leave them static or just straight-up copy Casio like Sanda did with this one! You’re already 95% there, just go all the way.
I picked this watch up from eBay and I’m very happy with it. However, it’s been running about 2 seconds fast per day—not a huge issue but I’d prefer to not be a full minute fast each month
My Google-Fu turned up nothing except for the operation manual which was in Japanese, and based on the photos, it does not appear to address time adjustment
I (stupidly) asked ChatGPT “what is this” with no additional info and the first sentence was that it was NOT the time adjustment. It claimed it’s actually the AC reset, despite the fact that the AC reset is clearly labeled on the other side of the module. When I pointed this out it said “oh yeah that’s the time adjustment screw but Casio doesn’t post adjustment instructions.”
I gave the screw a counter-clockwise 1/4 turn last night and ~15 hours later it’s just shy of 3 seconds fast, on pace to be worse than before
Anyone have any experience and/or knowledge on these? I can’t imagine I’d need to turn it clockwise to slow it down but that seems to be the case. Any info on how much to turn it?
Thanks in advance
Pretty sure it came with the factory BR2016 battery too
Somehow I have never seen this model before and I can’t find anything online about it. It’s got the same crystal and 1071 module as an F-94 but in a chrome-plated resin case. I thought it was a mod but even the rear case looks legit.
I picked this TS-100 up on eBay recently. Seems to be working fine but there’s some obvious ghosting at all angles, wondering if anyone has any ideas.
It takes a CR1620 but I only had a CR1616 on hand (same diameter and voltage just a tad thinner)
Could it be an issue with the zebra strip? It was pretty dirty around the gasket but the module itself looks clean. Hoping but fully expecting to have to disassemble the whole thing and hit it with some rubbing alcohol
Pretty nice homage! I have 3 a700s and this wears pretty much indentically. Mine can’t keep time—gained about 1.5 minutes in a couple of weeks, no biggie to adjust. Had to ditch the Milanese band that came with it, not my style.
I’ve got this a153 showing up today. As much as I’d like to leave it as-is I’m awfully tempted to swap the crystal onto a gold AliExpress stainless case, mostly because of the wear on the case but also to increase water resistance due to this guy having a snap-on rear cover.
I’m fairly confident in my ability to remove these crystals using a little heat and a press, but I’m worried I’ll cause some delamination or break it due to its advanced age.
Does anyone have any tips/tricks for loosening the adhesive with some sort of solvent that wouldn’t damage the printing?
This watch was non-working when I got it. Put a new battery in and it came to life but the screen was a garbled mess and the digits were faded.
I cleaned the zebra strip and replaced the front polarizer (second pic). I then replaced the brittle/cracking gasket and polished the crystal to like-new condition.
The band had to be taken off and deep cleaned—it was so loaded with dust and dirt the clasp wouldn’t close once opened.
I felt a bit like the old man that restored Woody in the second Toy Story movie