
Am I sunk
have about 4 cord stacked since April. Reading around 25% on freshly split face. Any chance this will be burnable this year?

have about 4 cord stacked since April. Reading around 25% on freshly split face. Any chance this will be burnable this year?
Hello, I am looking for advice on how to add insulation to my roof. The tricky part of it is I want to do it from the outside when I tear off the shingles for a metal roof, and ideally without tearing off the entire roof deck.
The first image is of the original house plan. It was built in 1978 as a post and beam passive solar. The 4×8 rafters are exposed on the interior. I know the easiest way to add insulation would be to add rigid board between the rafters, but I do not want to cover up the tongue and groove ceiling.
The second image is a picture I took last year when I did some siding repairs and replaced fascia boards. This was where a squirrel must have gotten in at some point and taken up residence. Unfortunately it is the only image I have of the interior of the roof assembly, but there is about 5 inches of space between the fiberglass insulation and the bottom of the solid wood roof sheathing.
My initial thought was when I removed the shingles, I could pry up some sheathing boards and blow in cellulose, but the more I thought about it the more it seemed like there would be not way for me to guarantee an air gap below the sheathing. Even if I was careful with blowing it in, it seems like it could eventually settle into the lower soffit vent.
Am I on the right track with my concerns? Is there anyway to retrofit adding insulation without removing all of the sheathing? It is 32′ x 38′. Climate zone 5.
Some more details. The house is a passive solar so on sunny days it is warm in the house, no matter what the outside temperature is. We don't even need to run the wood stove. But as soon as the sun goes down or on cloudy days, it gets chilly quick. Even with that we only burn about 4 cord a year. On cold cloudy days, we struggle to get above 62 degrees inside. I have replaced some of the old drafty casement windows with failed insulated glass panels this year, so hopefully that helps a bit. So with these details my last question is, would it even be worth the cost to add some insulation?
Thank you for any advice you can offer.
I am looking for some advice and recommendations for optics for my rifles.
16” colt m4 carbine with Aimpoint patrol. I got this set up like 12 years ago when I didn’t know much about guns.
8” 300blk PSA mixtape with mixtape suppressor. this will be a pdw/ home defense set up.
my question is should I move the Aimpoint onto the mixtape and get a lpvo optic for the colt? or is the Aimpoint outdated and oversized for what it is? the dual dot of the EXPS seems nice to be able to switch between subs and supers. does that actually work or is a single dot reticle better? would the front sight get in the way of a scope on the Colt?
I eventually hope to get a suppressed 556 set up.
budget is around $500. appreciate an guidance, thank you.
I just finished watching the suppressor 101 series. On episode 4 it says "“If you don’t see full auto rated or duty rated on a suppressor, typically if you scroll down on the page of the suppressor company, it’ll say something along the lines of no more than one shot every 30 seconds. And these cans are typically better suited for like a DMR style gun that you’re not shooting as often, or maybe a bolt gun, something like that. Full auto rated doesn’t necessarily mean if you have a machine gun you need this or if you don’t have a machine gun don’t worry about it. It just means if you have a higher firing schedule, you’re going to want to go for the full auto or duty rated can”
I see that the mixtape suppressor is not full auto rated, but I do not see what the maximum firing schedule is.