I have a very old house. These basement windows need to be replaced. I am wondering how involved this will be? Will the framing need to be ripped out and replaced? Is this something worth DIYing?
I am moderately handy and have a pretty good number of tools available to me.
Any resources/ videos that you would suggest would be helpful.
I have a very old house. These basement windows need to be replaced. I am wondering how involved this will be? Will the framing need to be ripped out and replaced? Is this something worth DIYing?
I am moderately handy and have a pretty good number of tools available to me.
Any resources/ videos that you would suggest would be helpful.
I’ve seen quite a few posts on here with people struggling to get plants going, so I thought I’d share a presentation I put together a while ago for something that worked for me. Hope it helps someone.
I made a post asking for pruning guidance and didn’t get much response, so I’ve done some more reading and wanted to ask some more specific questions. I’m in New York (Hudson Valley area) and the tree is a young semi-dwarf apple tree.
When a heading cut is made on the leader and multiple upright shoots develop below the cut, if I want to select one as the continuation of the central leader, should the competing shoots be removed during summer pruning or is it better to wait until dormancy?
For potential scaffold branches that are becoming excessively long, is it generally better to head them back during the growing season or during dormant pruning?
If I have lateral branches coming off the leader that I expect to remove entirely during dormant pruning, does it make sense to make a small heading cut on them during the summer to reduce their vigor and direct growth elsewhere, or is it better to leave them alone until removal?
How much vertical space should I allow for scaffold selection? My tree was about 4 feet tall before the leader was headed. At what height should I make sure I’ve selected all of my primary scaffolds?
My current thought is to use four main scaffolds spaced roughly toward the four compass directions and train the tree into something between a modified central leader and a delayed open-center form.
If it helps, I’m trying to balance good structure with keeping the tree at a manageable size for backyard fruit production. I’d appreciate any advice from growers who have trained semi-dwarf apples from the beginning, particularly in climates similar to New York.
I made a post asking for pruning guidance and didn’t get much response, so I’ve done some more reading and wanted to ask some more specific questions. I’m in New York (Hudson Valley area) and the tree is a young semi-dwarf apple tree.
When a heading cut is made on the leader and multiple upright shoots develop below the cut, if I want to select one as the continuation of the central leader, should the competing shoots be removed during summer pruning or is it better to wait until dormancy?
For potential scaffold branches that are becoming excessively long, is it generally better to head them back during the growing season or during dormant pruning?
If I have lateral branches coming off the leader that I expect to remove entirely during dormant pruning, does it make sense to make a small heading cut on them during the summer to reduce their vigor and direct growth elsewhere, or is it better to leave them alone until removal?
How much vertical space should I allow for scaffold selection? My tree was about 4 feet tall before the leader was headed. At what height should I make sure I’ve selected all of my primary scaffolds?
My current thought is to use four main scaffolds spaced roughly toward the four compass directions and train the tree into something between a modified central leader and a delayed open-center form.
If it helps, I’m trying to balance good structure with keeping the tree at a manageable size for backyard fruit production. I’d appreciate any advice from growers who have trained semi-dwarf apples from the beginning, particularly in climates similar to New York.
I made a post asking for pruning guidance and didn’t get much response, so I’ve done some more reading and wanted to ask some more specific questions. I’m in New York (Hudson Valley area) and the tree is a young semi-dwarf apple tree.
When a heading cut is made on the leader and multiple upright shoots develop below the cut, if I want to select one as the continuation of the central leader, should the competing shoots be removed during summer pruning or is it better to wait until dormancy?
For potential scaffold branches that are becoming excessively long, is it generally better to head them back during the growing season or during dormant pruning?
If I have lateral branches coming off the leader that I expect to remove entirely during dormant pruning, does it make sense to make a small heading cut on them during the summer to reduce their vigor and direct growth elsewhere, or is it better to leave them alone until removal?
How much vertical space should I allow for scaffold selection? My tree was about 4 feet tall before the leader was headed. At what height should I make sure I’ve selected all of my primary scaffolds?
My current thought is to use four main scaffolds spaced roughly toward the four compass directions and train the tree into something between a modified central leader and a delayed open-center form.
If it helps, I’m trying to balance good structure with keeping the tree at a manageable size for backyard fruit production. I’d appreciate any advice from growers who have trained semi-dwarf apples from the beginning, particularly in climates similar to New York.
I made a post asking for pruning guidance a while back and didn’t get much response, so I’ve done some more reading and wanted to ask some more specific questions. I’m in New York (Hudson Valley area) and the tree is a young semi-dwarf apple tree.
When a heading cut is made on the leader and multiple upright shoots develop below the cut, if I want to select one as the continuation of the central leader, should the competing shoots be removed during summer pruning or is it better to wait until dormancy?
For potential scaffold branches that are becoming excessively long, is it generally better to head them back during the growing season or during dormant pruning?
If I have lateral branches coming off the leader that I expect to remove entirely during dormant pruning, does it make sense to make a small heading cut on them during the summer to reduce their vigor and direct growth elsewhere, or is it better to leave them alone until removal?
How much vertical space should I allow for scaffold selection? My tree was about 4 feet tall before the leader was headed. At what height should I make sure I’ve selected all of my primary scaffolds?
My current thought is to use four main scaffolds spaced roughly toward the four compass directions and train the tree into something between a modified central leader and a delayed open-center form.
If it helps, I’m trying to balance good structure with keeping the tree at a manageable size for backyard fruit production. I’d appreciate any advice from growers who have trained semi-dwarf apples from the beginning, particularly in climates similar to New York.
Newly planted semi dwarf apple tree. I’m trying to determine whether the circled knob is the original heading cut and the doglegged stem became a replacement leader, or whether the leader simply changed direction there. My original plan was a delayed open-center system, but I’m wondering if it would make more sense to switch to an open-center tree and remove the doglegged leader entirely. Which structure would you build from this starting point, and why?
Large piece of aquarium, driftwood tied to a piece of slate. I had this submerged in my 75 gallon for a couple of years but it’s been sitting outside for a while.
75 gallon tank in background for scale. It’s nearly 4 feet long and about 20” tall. About 10” wide give or take.
This was an aquarium stand built from red oak with a laminated top. I’m including photos of the build for background on how it was built.
After about 10 years of supporting a 75-gallon aquarium, including two house moves and some water exposure over time, the top has now split.
I’m trying to figure out if this is something that can realistically be repaired or stabilized. The piece has a lot of sentimental value, so I’m open to more involved restoration if it’s feasible.
Comes with everything. In good shape. Works perfect. Missing some suction cups for intake and outlet.
No leaks. Was just dismantled so I’m sure it holds water. Some minor scratches on glass. Black background is removable. Comes with glass lids.
First 3 photos are the 3 pieces. Photos after that show different angles.
Removed the car seats and took the opportunity to clear the collection of snacks left behind.
I recently got this evergreen (for free on FB Marketplace) and noticed it has a clear graft union near the base of the trunk. Does that usually mean it’s some kind of named cultivar of something like Colorado Blue Spruce for example, rather than a standard seed-grown tree?
The growth is very dense and compact, so I’m wondering if it’s likely a dwarf or slower-growing variety.
I’ve since transplanted it into the ground and removed the green tape shown in the photo.
Any guesses on the cultivar or mature size?
This is a ginger gold semi dwarf apple tree. I planted it two days ago. I have uncovered it a bit after some comments from folks on Reddit. I’m looking for guidance on where I should bury this in if you can see where the stem connects to the bulb area is the graft?
811 came out and marked my yard utilities so I could plant my first 3 fruit trees. They were 15 feet off from marking my internet cable correctly. I severed it when edging my mulch ring.