Hello tout le monde,
J’ai eu le malheur de mal fermer ma fenêtre en PVC et depuis, le haut droit de ma fenêtre ne ferme plus. Elle est en oscillo battant permanent…
J’ai épluché le net pour savoir quoi faire et voici ce que j’en ai compris : ma fenêtre est en drapeau. Il y a un mécanisme anti fausse manœuvre à utiliser pour réparer la fenêtre. Or, pas moyen de trouver le mécanisme. Voici les photos que j’ai…
À l’aide 🥲
I have a very old house. These basement windows need to be replaced. I am wondering how involved this will be? Will the framing need to be ripped out and replaced? Is this something worth DIYing?
I am moderately handy and have a pretty good number of tools available to me.
Any resources/ videos that you would suggest would be helpful.
The outside pane has a crack, curtesy of a baseball. Anyway to seal the crack to prevent moisture build up in the window?
A few windows in our new home have snapped cords so the sashes don't stay up. Thought it might be an easy fix, but these are not your old fashioned sash cord with a counterweight in the frame type of windows apparently. The white track that the sashes ride in is a vinyl piece over wood frame. It is held in with a couple of screws on one side, but mostly pressure fit. I was able to remove the upper portion on one side, and the header but found no clues as to where to go next. I removed the trim around the window frame, but I cannot see any counterweight system nor is there space for one. I am beginning to think that the metal plates at the top of the frame are housing some sort of friction/spring-based resistance mechanism, but I have no idea how to access that without destroying the window frame. They seem to be held in by the jambs on the outside edge, and a single staple on the inside.
Any tips on how to access the mechanism, or how to go about this repair safely, and without having to completely disassemble and rebuild the window? Are these even serviceable?
These brown marks have been there since these windows were installed several years ago. Tried many things to get it off, except a razor blade because I’m afraid of scratching it. Any ideas what this could be and what would take it off?
Hi! We recently acquired an older house, and we're having a hard time removing dried packaging tape that the previous owners used to cover the windows. The tape has been there for years and has become extremely brittle and stuck to the glass.
We've already tried several methods, including:
\- Warm water with vinegar and dish soap, combined with a heat gun/hot air blower
\-Thinner
\-Goo Gone adhesive remover
\-Scraping with a blade
While we've managed to remove some of it, a lot of the residue is still firmly attached, and scraping harder doesn't seem to help.
Has anyone dealt with old, dried packaging tape on glass before? What method or product worked best for you? We have multiple windows to clean, so we're hoping to find an effective solution.
Thank you!
Our grand parents house from 1970's has these glass layers that sit outside the window frame, they replace them with mess layers during summer and use glass ones during winter. I believe they are called storm window! It's just one layer glass fitted into a thin aluminum frame. The glass is cracked, I am thinking to replace them with something durable, lighter than glass but withstand Midwest weather.
Any recommendations on best alternatives and where to get them? Should be clear and transparent like glass but stronger and light in weight so grand parents can handle it without breaking the storm window or their back.
Thanks!
this old window popped out in the middle of a storm during a near 100 degree heatwave in nyc on the eve of the 4th of July.
I’ve contacted my landlord but is there anything I can do in the meantime?
The window frame is now covered by a garbage bag. It’s freaking hot and the AC was already working hard before this.
I tried taking out the window at my rental and it got “stuck” - the plastic piece broke off and now I’m worried!
Is this a common issue and fairly reasonable in cost to fix?
Thank you!
Hi everyone I am looking for some advice on this window installation that we just had done in our basement, does this look like it was done correctly or should there have been a wooden frame installed between the window and the foundation of the house?
After washing (dish soap/water/squeegee) my double pane picture window, I somehow either disturbed the glazing/seal and moisture got between the panes, or the moisture from the rain over the last week was able to penetrate. Can anything be done about this DIY? I’m guessing it will eventually evaporate, but will leave water marks and likely happen again. Thanks for any advice.
I own a 5000 sq ft home built in 1890. Probably 70% of the windows are original, with triple track storms. Bit by bit I plan to rebuild the original windows, and I will install new storms of a better quality than what is currently on the house. The triple tracks probably date to the 1970’s.
In the basement are some of the original storm windows, the kind that people used to put up and take down yearly. They are in excellent shape. They are also taking up a whole lot of room. They are never going back up onto this house. I hate to just take them to the landfill. Does anyone have any suggestions of what might be done with them? I guess they could be great for someone who wanted to create a cold frame for gardening, or…?
I’ve got a number of UPVC windows, some are beginning to be a bit tight and squeaky when locking, both the locking mechanism and the hinges as well. What’s the best thing to use to lubricate these? Should I use White Lithium Grease Spray, or is there a better recommended lubricant?
Hi all,
I’m in a bit of a pickle. We are renovating our kitchen and we are replacing our window and patio door. We had a family member who runs a window business do the work for us. they installed both.
Our contractor saw the work and indicated they did not put any tyvek and tape flashing. When he asked them about it they said that the foam was enough and not to worry. Now we are hesitant…more research indicates flashing is required. Our contractor will put tyvek on the outside but wondering your thoughts on the tape flashing?
We would need to bring it up and it might be an awkward convo but at the end of the day we are here to prevent future problems.
Thank you!
To start, this is my first post ever, and I was halfway through writing when I realized that I am writing way too much.. tldr at bottom😅
This may not be my last post… as the ‘flipper’ who had the audacity to work on this house before me where either cheap or absolute morons
Noticed some warping in the bead board in the breakfast area and decided to investigate… and found mold.
After more investigating, I figured that most of the water was coming from an exterior outlet that was poorly installed, and in addition to the mold the sill plate was rotted out underneath it.
Cue a montage of planning, cutting, cleaning, cutting more, cursing, more cleaning, placing fans to dry the area, buying a new tool (oscillating multitool, Diablo blades cut like a dream) cutting even more, replacing and rewiring.
I ended putting in a decent bubbly box for the exterior outlet, with a gfci like it should have had in the first place, and properly sealing and putting some flashing underneath to ensure no water leaks back into the house.
At last, the problem was fixed, and I grabbed my garden hose to test everything. Sprayed down the outlet for five minutes, checked inside, and **success!!** No more water in the house!
But, I sadly just can’t leave well enough alone, and decided I would spray down the window that is right next to it as well (I figure it could possible be the issue at first until I investigated the outlet). And here is where my new problem come into play, I went back inside and found water leaking into the wall all under the window.
Some important background: the house was made in the 60s and does not have your typical siding… the exterior painted and sealed boards are 1in thick and nailed directly to the studs of the house. The window ,I’m fairly sure, does infact have flashing which drains behind the siding, but as the siding is the same as the exterior wall it means that the water goes directly into the house. There are weep holes under the house siding at the bottom (it’s basically open to outside), which is why I assume the boards are not rotted at all.
The window is behind the roof line, but still gets wet from wind during rain. The windows have no weep holes, and the sill builds up enough water to pull back towards the house.
What do I do from here?? I’m trying not to demo the whole wall (pulling the siding would be the same as removing the entire exterior). Can I drill weep holes into the sill under the window? Even though I know it’s considered a bad idea… could I just caulk the bottom of the window to prevent the water from getting under it? It’s already sitting almost flush on the sill, and other windows on the house have obviously been caulked. Please help🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Tl;dr: Noticed mold in wall, cut open and found rot and possible source, fixed first issue, discover water coming in under window. How do I fix this?
I'm looking for advice on how to restore / fix the massive drafts, rattling, etc.
I'm near Albany, NY if anyone has any ideas of any classes, handymans, etc in the area.
Recently had 8 windows and a sliding door replaced. Is this satisfactory workmanship? Or am I being a little nitpicky.
does any one know what this strip of plastic around the window is called to seal gaps between the window frame and wall? it has an adhesive backing from what i can see. previous owners used silicone caulk to secure it and now it’s peeling up and i want to replace is
I’ve what I believe to be a tilt and turn window in my daughters bedroom but it will only tilt. Locks and tilts perfectly fine however as the handle is lifted up to open fully, it feels like it’s restricted at the bottom of the window almost like it’s dropped. Can’t seem to find any guides that reference it not functioning properly, just what to do if it’s stuck open.