Is my accelerator pump working correctly? (VIDEO)
Cant figure out my carburetor settings. Pump seems to work but i don't know for sure.
Car: 1984 Mazda 323 BD Automatic, 1.3 E3 engine.
Engine off video: https://youtube.com/shorts/ympNuPjhbDU
Cant figure out my carburetor settings. Pump seems to work but i don't know for sure.
Car: 1984 Mazda 323 BD Automatic, 1.3 E3 engine.
Engine off video: https://youtube.com/shorts/ympNuPjhbDU
I installed the head from a different block on my Mazda 323 E3 1.3 Automatic from 1985, its a pre-september model so its easier to say its from 1984 in many online searches i do to solve problems.
The car is running good now when the engine is warm. Performance is very good as well when the engine is warm, just like i knew it from before the head change. Here in the Netherlands ambient in the morning is around 12-15 degrees C (summer). Overnight it stays out and in the morning when i start it, it fires up easily with choke, this is normal behaviour. Carburetor is clean and i dont have any vacuum leaks.
I face 3 problems now:
Im not sure if this is normal, because i know this also from my older motorcycles. When they are cold they need a few minutes to get up to temperature. But before the head change it was different with the Mazda, now it really needs 2 minutes before i can apply throttle a significant amount. When in winter (ambient 0 degrees C), before the change, it was sensitive when cold for stalling, but i always managed to drive off easily when the choke was engaged.
The idle is not consistent. When i start it, it tends to stall if i dont keep the choke or throttle engaged well enough, it comes very precise, i am basically keeping it running with minimum engagement of throttle or choke. My assumption is that my idle is set too low because of this. Before the head change i was able to keep it idling on its own. When i drive it and i stop at a redlight, i put the gear in N when i know i have to wait too long for it to leave it in D. So when in N, the revs shoot up to around 1400 rpm, way too high.
Hopefully i am missing something very obvious. The performance with a warm engine is excellent, so it feels like i am very close to the right setting.
I am rebuilding an engine of a 1985 Mazda 323 BD 1.3 Automatic. The intake manifold gasket that comes with the set, blocks off one channel (see photo).
All the gasket options seem to be designed this way. What is the purpose of it? Is it correct? I don't know what it looked like as the parts came all separate. So basically there are 6 channels, but one is blocked by the new gasket. The Haynes book doesn't give clarity on this unfortunately.