I don’t know if this is normal behavior:
I’ve noticed that sometimes, when I brake hard, the car gets “launched forward” after downshifting.
Let me explain: I brake at around 90%, the speed drops quickly, it does the fake/virtual gear downshift, then it stops braking or at least it feels like it only brakes at 30–40%.
It’s a bit like I had pressed the clutch.
Has this ever happened to you? What could it be?
My question is pretty simple and probably a bit noob, lol.
Every VR headset I’ve tried so far, including the Meta Quest, had the same issue for me: I could still notice the pixels, and the image never felt truly sharp.
It always felt like: “This could be amazing, but it still doesn’t compare to watching my TV or monitor.”
Given the huge price jump, I’m wondering if this actually delivers a proper “real TV” experience.
If the answer is yes, I’m sold even just for the home cinema experience
As title, I exchanged my old empty cylinder with new one but it’s already like 70%, I can understand it by how weak is the co2 push….what should I do?
Let’s say I’m interested in spending 5-7K to buy a “ready to use” bot: where should I look for?
Clearly with backlog and proofs
Hi!
I’m new to this community, owner of a beautiful Tycan since just 2 weeks.
I noticed that collision avoidance works only when I activate regen mode, otherwise it simply won’t pop sound or show alert.
It is supposed to work that way? Am I doing something wrong?
I honestly hate the audio quality when using wireless CarPlay/Bluetooth, so would love to use CarPlay only via USB as I was doing with my previous cars
The issue is that the car automatically connects through Bluetooth, and if I disable Bluetooth/Wi-Fi on my iPhone and plug it in via USB, the car doesn’t recognize it anymore.
Am I missing something, or doing something wrong?
Come lo calcolate? Che strumenti usate?
Da tabella ACI vedo un costo proporzionale al KM e uno complessivo per percorrenza annua (es 5000KM).
Posta una singola trasferta di 250KM, cosa calcolo?