Picked up this DOL-101 as “for parts/repair” off FleaBay a while back to help with development and testing of my USB-C power mod. Finally got around to replacing the caps, and it’s running great and reading games just fine! The best part is that it only took about $2.50 worth of capacitors to bring it back to life.
I have a couple games I bought that have less than stellar contact pins. I started working on a couple replacement boards to fix the damaged carts. does anyone else have old carts needing replacement boards?
Kicad 10. How do I prevent the zone knockout on the non-connected side? The top terminal on the cr2032 is behaving how I want but the bottom terminal is excluding the zone for the top GND layer. I just want pads on the bottom layer.
Your N64 has been adventuring for nearly 30 years. It deserves a proper drink. 🍺⚡
N64PWR replaces the aging factory power supply with a modern internal USB-C Power Delivery solution, serving up clean, stable 3.3V and 12V power.
Think of it as pulling up a stool at a fine old tavern—your N64 gets to sip a finely brewed ale instead of choking down questionable grog from the bargain barrel.
But N64PWR isn’t just another USB-C adapter. It’s a purpose-built power supply designed specifically for the Nintendo 64, using high-efficiency switching regulators, dedicated 3.3V and 12V rails, output filtering, reverse-polarity and input protection, and a fault indicator for incompatible power adapters. No generic converter modules cobbled together—just a compact, professionally manufactured board engineered to replace the original power supply from the ground up.
✨ Clean, stable power
⚡ USB-C Power Delivery Standard Voltage
🔥 Efficient, low-heat design
🛡️ Integrated protection circuitry
🚨 Incompatible power adapter warning
🎮 Purpose-built for the Nintendo 64
N64PWR — serve your console the good stuff.
Fairybottleproductions.com
Previous post: https://www.reddit.com/r/n64/s/ua8q0urPL4
I did find a power supply with a five wire connection from the plug to the main pcb. Another difference is the hole for the cable is larger. 11.25x8.5mm vs 9x7mm on my other two. Are there any other shell variants besides these three? I’m working on the faceplates and how to cleanly integrate the usbc with the shell.
I was trying to find a decent solution for replacing the brick internals and adding a usb c port where the original cable was. This is what I have come up with. It’s a fairly easy install and fits the shell perfectly. It utilized the original plug for the console and the smaller portion snaps off and is soldered so that the usb plug fits in the correct spot for the shell.
I have worked through all the bugs and the internal version is getting pretty close to perfect. I also want to make a version that replaces the power brick internals and one that just plugs in the back and fills the cavity that is normally occupied by the brick. Which version would you prefer? Completely internal to the console? Replace the brick internals? Or a plug and play version that requires no soldering?
I have two versions of the power supply. It seems both I have use six wires between the console plug and the main board of the power supply. I believe there is a variation out there that uses just five wires between the two board portions. Does anyone know the size, spacing and arrangement of which wire is 12, 3.3, and gnd on the five wire boards?
Can anyone identify the pin socket type on the bottom right?
Finally got all the bugs worked out! The power rails now activate with the power switch and are no longer hot all the time. I had to isolate one set of contacts on the power switch to control the board though. I was hoping to find a solotion that didn’t involve any other modifications than removeing and replacing the power connector. The buck converts stay under 40 C and the power is very clean compare to the stock power supply. I have made several improvements to the next revision optimizing traces and the ground plane as well as organizing the components and slightly reducing the size.
So I just got my boards in and the idea is when the system is turned on and current is being drawn, it activates a 12v fan. Then when the system turns off the fan turns off. For some reason this only works if I touch the test point with a metal wire or a probe from a dmm. Any idea what I got wrong?
Are there any Bluetooth mods? I have seen some people working on them but I have not actually seen one available. Is this something you would be interested in? I’m considering working on one myself.
USB C power supply replacement. Replaces the stock power plug and maintains all original screw holes. It is tight to the case. It has a 12v fan header and solder pads for accessory or mod expansion.
Is this a mod people would be interested in? There are several out there right now that are very basic and have little to no circuit protection. Would you be interested in a usbc mod that removes the power supply and adds easy expansion ability for other mods?
Does this look like it will work? I’m trying to have this fan start when the device draws power and turn off when it is no longer in use. If the circuit is correct, do the component choices look like they will do the job? LMV331 and 2N7002A
I’m working on a usb c power supply. It requests 15v at 2a and then I have two buck converters down stream that supply 12v at 800ma and 3.3v at 3 amps. I’m trying to add a fan header that activates and supplies 12v when there is load on the 3.3v rail. I originally had the fan header directly connected to the 12v rail but I believe the fan would just run indefinitely even when the device is off. Not sure how to get this to work and my google fu is weak on this one. I’m a beginner.
Thanks in advance!
This is a tough install. I ended up having to desolder the ribbon cable twice due to bridging on the underside. Third time is a charm! I went with the full size HDMI and you have to remove the multi out. I have an active cooling fan running on the 5v and ground pins from the multi out location.
Fun little mod. Games load much faster and controls feel snappier. The countdown in SW: EP1 racer is sped up though but the gameplay feels normal. Can’t wait for my pixelfx hdmi kit to come in so I can ditch the Amazon video converter!
