u/java_dude1

Hi all, I've got a question regarding the Garmin load focus and how it assigns specific rides. It consistently says Low Aerobic shortage. Today I went out with the intention to do a solid Z2 ride and try to get a base ride. 1.5h with my HR in Z1 - Z2, power between Z2 - Z3 and once again a Tempo ride instead of a base ride. I think the only time I've seen base is when I go out with my wife and sit most of the time in Z1 or below. Is this normal? I know I shouldn't really care that much but just wondering what the logic behind this is.

I'm a long time user of a garmin edge 530 and just got a forerunner 265. I'm using the 265 for mostly recovery and health metrics but also found huge benefit from tracking walks, yoga, and weight lifting. Finally everything in a single app. I've got 2 questions regarding the synchronization between these 2 devices. How do I get the daily suggested workout off the forerunner onto my edge, or even just the raw file to upload to zwift for example? Today the forerunner suggested a 2x15 threshold workout that actually fit within my current training plan. I can't find this workout anywhere in garmin connect or on the forerunner at all to sync to my edge. 2nd, what's up with the recovery time? So far it's been pretty consistent but today went wild after my ride. Woke up with a green status, after my ride my edge said 3 days recovery and now I have 1 training readiness score. I mean a 2x15 is pretty hard in a sense but basically the ride was a warmup plus that. Will that number normalize some through the day? Do I need to sync the edge before the ride or something?

I just purchased a forerunner 265. Wearing it 2nd day now. Been a long time user of a edge 530. Twice today my watch threw up some notification about training. I did not have time to read these at that moment. 1st happened while I was on my bike ride today. Took a quick glance and then focused on what I was doing. 2nd was a similar situation while driving. How to go find these messages?

Ive been using a whoop for about 2 months now. Had some general success getting my sleep schedule in order which is nice. I'm a 4 year cyclist coming off of a slight dip in training after some laziness this year. Probably I just had some burn out. Coming back from an FTP of around 300w last summer to working back up from a dismal 250w and quit a bit heavier. I am thoroughly convinced that if you took what this AI says word for word nobody would see any fitness gains and would spend all their time in bed 'protecting HRV' instead of getting any training done. It can't remember basic goals. It suggests worthless workouts half the time. Like really, what is a 30min z1 spin supposed to do for somebody who's averaging 8+ hours a week on a green recovery day. Sometimes it does come up with good stuff, but then forgets it the next day. And when confronted with that, goes completely the opposite direction to suggest an interval session the day after a hard session. Unless you have some background in training and can argue with this AI you'll get nowhere.

Has anyone used this device and gained any fitness? Am I wasting my time and should move on to garmin or something else more training focused?

So I got my motorcycle license around 2000. Rode many years, many of those the bike was my only transport. Just coming back from a short time off the bike (around 6 years) because I was fully remote, life, kids.... I was always taught that you slow before a corner, get off the brakes, lean and accelerate out. It was always said that using the brakes mid corner would result in an insta wreck so never tried it. Lately I've been getting lots of youtube suggestions about bike stuff and trail braking has come up. Is this something that's mostly used for the track or are we doing this on the road too? I generally understand the principle, to keep the front tire and suspension loaded to avoid abrupt change and unsettle the bike. (I do a lot of simracing and use it extensively there) Is there some advantage to trail braking on the road vs using the old taught method of doing all your braking before lean in? Genuinely curious if I should be practicing this skill or am I introducing some unneeded risk. Are there any really good vids explaining this, already seen a few but who knows if they were good or not.

What would cause a bike to use excess fuel? All info i can find on my bike says it should achieve between 4.5 to 5.5 l/100km. Last few tanks are sitting around 6.3 l/100km. This is a 60hp '88 Honda NTV Revere.

I have an '88 Honda 650 ntv that's sat for a few years. Almost got everything in good order again and took it for a longer ride. 30 or so km on the highway and 10 in city traffic plus the return. Bike started to get warm in traffic. Normal from previous experience. What wasn't normal was the fan never turned on... fast forward to yesterday while I was trying to figure out if it's the fan or the temp sensor. I checked all the fuses and let the bike get to just below the hot portion of the temp gauge. Fan never turned on. Switched the bike off and figured I'd put power directly to the fan to see if it was working. Switched the bike back on and like magic the fan came on. I'm pretty sure that fan used to come on a 1/2 the temp gauge before. I'm gonna do a coolant flush this weekend and see if that helps. But if not, does that mean the temp gauge is bad?

Hi, I need to replace the fork seals on my bike. What size hex tool do I need for this? Pretty sure this is the original part number 51455-MN5-003 but can't find anywhere the size wrench needed. I measured the inside diameter of the cap with some calipers and came to ~18mm. 18 isn't a common size here and was told it must be 19mm. The 19mm was too big.

Hi all, I've got a question about how this car works the transmission. It's been a long time since I've driven an automatic and I've found that under some conditions the car shifts into 6th gear a bit ambitiously. Wondering anyone else has the same or similar. Sometimes, at around 75 - 80kph it will shift into that top gear if I'm not actively accelerating. I can hear the engine kind of produce a vibration and rumbling noise. Hitting the gas or using the paddles I can get it to shift back to 5th where the noise goes away. Is this a problem? Is there a reason it does this shift? Otherwise, loving the car. Just don't want to ignore something that could be a problem.

I've got this '88 Honda 650 NTV I've had for probably 25 years or so. When I first got it I rode it a lot, was my only transportation. Then it got parked for 6 years because I went to the US. Came back, did some maintenance and started riding it again when possible. Honestly, I didn't ride it a whole lot but did oil changes every year and took it for short day trips around the villages. Just didn't have a bunch of time to go riding.

This year, for whatever reason, I decided I wanted to ride it again. Did a bunch of maintenance again to get it going (changed an air filter that was 20 years old but had only 20,000km, plugs, ran some carb cleaner through it...) . Still have some to do like fork seals, maybe flush the coolant and brake fluid. Today I finally took it on the highway and let it rip. Got it up to 140kph no prob and hit 150 by the next exit. Took the exit and went back and pegged it at 150kph the whole way. Probably a 15 - 20 km round trip. Bike felt great. I slow rolled it into town at around 60 -70kph and stopped at the shop. Noticed the oil light was flickering at idle. The bike was still kinda hot, sitting mid range in the gauge where normally it's at about 1/4. Oil light would disappear if I gave it any gas. Did my shopping, and checked the oil level. It's lower than when I filled it but still within spec. Started the bike, still pretty warm and oil light still flickering. Fueled up and took it easy back home. By the time I got home, the temps were back down into the 1/4 range and oil light no longer flickering. What is this? Top speed on this bike is around 170 - 180kph, am I messing up the bike by going 150? Thinking hard I was only sitting around 6500 - 7000rpm, bike has a red line of 8500 which I've probably never seen.

I remember way back when I first got that bike I ended up needing a crank shaft after a long trip at around 140kph with a passenger. I was convinced that I had put the wrong fuel in the tank. Back then there was still leaded gas and me being a foreigner put the wrong gas in the tank. Mechanic thought I had for sure been ripping it up the only high speed highway in the country.

Thanks for any input, don't want to ruin this bike. It's still as great as I remember (and my wife won't let me get a new because this still works 😄)

I just bought a 2022 sportage. The place I bought it from said the next service is in June. Car suddenly showing in the display that it's required in 700km. I checked the book and that's accurate. June or 130,000km. I'm calling the nearest dealership to try to get an appointment but what happens if I can't get in? I planned a trip in the new car for Thursday that will for sure put me over the km limit.