Why does the design not include a second point for which a handguard to affix? The OEM handguard had wobble and so does the MI one. I assume the monolithic handguards solve this, but I don’t personally love the look.
So why not a place for one more pin? Surely they could’ve hung one down there?
Why/why not
I had a homeowner hire me to install 16 that’s right, 16 cameras on their 3000 sqft house. They had already purchased the gear, so they hired me purely for labor.
Finished up and was looking at them with the customer going over motion settings and whatnot and they get so hung up on the fact that “why are there 4 cameras looking at the same thing?”
Well mam, you put at least twice as many cameras as necessary so there’s going to be some overlap.
This is why I will not install a single thing without a site plan showing every camera angle. Is this not the craziest shit you’ve ever seen?
Install was right at 8k, but we had to trench and lay conduit to mount a cam on the back shed looking back at the house. Wildness.
So I purchased a as designs safety and a machining “credit” from deez nuts. Finally got the trigger in from g$ and I emailed them asking if I could pay for a second trigger to be cut. They said they were suspending the machining services and couldn’t do a second trigger for me.
I asked them if this was for operational, or engineering/performance and they said “mainly logistical”
Mainly….
I wanted for v2 intentionally bc I’m not ever a v1 guy. Mainly is so lame haha. I’m still going to send it in, but are yall having issues with the as designs v2 ss?
I have 2 super safety’s in my hand (45-90&90 180) and am trying to decide what trigger to send off to be cut. I have an m4 curved SSP , a flat SSP and a ssa 2 stage.
To me a one stage makes significantly more sense, but with the mechanics the single vs double may actually not be the difference I am thinking. Like if the idea is we can bounce our finger for follow ups don’t you want the lightest shortest pull, or is it that it acts different mechanically so the 2 stage is short and light too on follow-ups. I mean at least follow up shots should be easier. Thoughts?
So I think I’m settled on the SSP, but let’s talk shape.
Flat seems to me to be maybe slightly easier just bc you have a flat bar to hold.
Thank you all, I haven’t shot much frt as I always felt the tech needed a little more time but I’m in now.
I let my lgs fix up my new galil gen 1 13”. Plastic delete, kns gas block, ALG trigger, the works.
Well it’s all good except for the trigger is bs imo. It is super mushy (albeit not too long) but just doesn’t feel nice. Is there some chance the lgs messed up the install? The only reason I ask is bc if I depress it, and let it cycle, it doesn’t make the resetting “click”.
I am just very unfamiliar with aks. I could (can/have) put an ar back together blindfolded, but I don’t know anything about aks.
Thanks
You’re supposed to be able to push down on the little pin and slide it back, but I physically cannot make it come off. I want to remove the sight so my optic can be set in the proper spot. So are we 100% sure they are removable? Last thing I want to do is break something. Also this is one of the new gen 1s in 7.62x39 13”.
Thank you for your advice in advance.
I want a G$ trigger so thinking I will get DNT to cut me one. Do folks prefer the 90,45 or 90 180?
Second question is: are light single stage triggers better for FRT? Seems like it would be.
Thanks for the help.
I’d like to make it quiet. What’s the consensus? Milkman? Mob? I didn’t see any recent posts and want to make sure I’m not missing contenders!
Give me your fav can and why. Also do we all use 80° ?
The bolt on my bcm mod 0 keeps bottoming out before it tightens down. Not by a ton, but I’d have to stack like 4-5 washers.
If you look down in the hole, there is a shiny silver piece that looks to be impeding the threads. I did not do the plastic delete myself, but a very good gunsmith did so I would be shocked if they messed something up.
Do I need to cut the bolt down a little bit? I’ve never seen anyone else have this issue.
I’ve accepted it’ll probably be a year before I can get a b&t collapsible, but patience is a virtue, and I wanted both a folder and b&t collapsible so it’s all good.
Is it a sin to not put an hk branded stock with a real hk sp5? I know B&t is great and honestly maybe I should snag their folder while I can?
Are any of these options worth not choosing the HK molded stock? Am I missing any serious contender not listed?
Thanks for your input here.