Finally tracked down my NHK stuff

Finally tracked down my NHK stuff

The English manga that I own were all bought from a store in the mall in 2007-2008, basically as they were sequentially released or shortly after- I stopped being able to find them easily at local anime stores so eventually didn’t finish with all of them collected, to that point.

Also found the light novel at a local anime store; I remember it spent about a quarter at college rattling around in my backpack, so it’s a wonder that it survived at all. I remember thinking it was sort of simple and not well written (or translated), but maybe I should reread it; I also haven’t read it since about 2008.

The DVD ‘S.A.V.E.’ Collection I got fairly recently (which means like 2013 to me), but I possibly never even watched the show that way. Still glad I own it in physical form.

The Japanese eds. I found at Book-Off. Unfortunately one of them has no cover.

u/ksilenced-kid — 24 hours ago
▲ 5 r/Guitar

Removing paint from a guitar case

The good news: 91% isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol works and does not apparently discolor or damage the plastic - as evidenced by the bottom half of the graphic, which I’ve scrubbed at, vs. the top where I have not.

The bad news- the graphics I’m trying to remove are huge and it is taking *an eternity* to scrub the whole thing off this way. It seems like the isopropyl needs to really soak in, but the problem is it typically evaporates quickly.

Edit, the case is plastic (molded).

I am wondering if there is a paste-like substance that is analogous, which I might be able to let sit on the paint and soften it over time? (as opposed to scrubbing with a cloth till the isopropyl evaporates)

Anything else generally non-reactive to case plastic I might try?

u/ksilenced-kid — 11 days ago

006 Elite (2001) arrived

This is my first flame maple top guitar, and my second set neck (after a Les Paul I quickly bought and sold about 20 years ago, right before I switched entirely to Fenders/G&Ls) - though I own neck-through as well.

I always admired the 006; definitely takes a cue from Rickenbacker yet doesn’t really resemble one at all. These were advertised in all the guitar magazines I read as a kid in the early 2000s, when Schecters seemed to be the guitars that all the bands on the radio played; big nostalgia trip.

Arrived in -dire- need of a setup but generally not bad condition for a 25 year old guitar- I think this one’s a winner. Some notes below:

- Later 006 Elite revisions have an ‘ultra access’ neck and string-through, both of which I prefer on paper - but the neck joint here is well executed and tapered so not obtrusive, and the stop tail keeps the strings from resting on the back of the bridge (this irks me when it happens on a string through and you can’t adjust it). During this period Schecter used a Nashville type bridge but with a wire retainer; I remember the wire on my old Omen during that era buzzing like crazy, but this one (stock Sung Il) seems stable.

- The 2001 catalog shows uncovered pickups on this model, but online nearly all of them on sale are covered so I assume this is stock; and a nice touch. Despite how they look the bridge pickup isn’t a Live Wire or Black Out copy but a Duncan Designed HB-103b - which is a copy of the Duncan Distortion SH-6, but with a smaller magnet. And I *really* like this pickup - I’ve been playing a Jackson with an HB-102 (JB copy) lately; basically the HB102 and 103 use the same ~16k coils with the only difference being ceramic vs. alnico. And it shocks me how much crunchier at low gain the 103 is, yet fuller at high gain this pickup is at same settings, as compared to the ‘JB’/102 - and how well the 103 responds to increasing (or backing off) the gain. It’s also brighter which my particular amp likes.

- Didn’t check the exact model of the neck pickup (yet), but it’s also Duncan Designed. I really think HS (or HSS) is the ideal setup, to me the only use neck humbuckers have is playing smoky jazz - and I don’t do that. It’s great to have a single coil to get a nice spanky, crystal clear tone in contrast to the bridge humbucker. Whatever the model is, the bridge and neck pickups are actually balanced in terms of output (unlike my stock Omen 6, where the neck pickups needs to be set way low to balance). Note the neck pickup route has a square baseplate.

- The neck shape is pretty big (by my estimation/taste), similar to my current 2007 Omen 6 but gloss finish (which honestly I prefer gloss to matte, but I know that’s weird.) I prefer a flatter back/thinner neck like an Ibanez Wizard, but I can deal with this fine.

- The build quality is basically rock solid, and aside from a few scratches from use, there’s not really anything going wrong after over two decades; no cracks in the binding. Plenty of bridge travel/neck angle. Very solid guitar but not too heavy. Big frets (with luckily a lot of life left). Perfect ergonomics; I was worried the bridge is too close to the strap button for me, but playing it feels like an old friend with no learning curve.

u/ksilenced-kid — 12 days ago

All the Schecter 006 Guitars (that I know of)

I have *one of these* arriving soon and am a bit psyched :)

So I did a bit of research on all the materially different 006 models that got released and it’s larger than expected (not counting 007, 004, Stargazer etc. as that would be huge).

Actually, I threw in one 007, for the sake of balance :) Anyway:

- 006 (V1 2001 - 2002) : Bolt on, 22 fret HS hardtail
- 006 Elite (V1 2001 - 2002) : Set neck, 24 fret HS TOM/stop
- Terry Corso (2002 - 2003) : Set neck, 24 fret HH TOM-through body
- 006 (V2 2003 only) : Set neck (now also bound), 22 fret HH TOM-through now with dot inlays
- 006 Deluxe (2003 - 2009) : Bolt on, 22 fret HH TOM-through body
- 006 Elite (V2 2003 - 2004) : Set ultra access, 24 fret HH TOM-through body
- 006 Blackjack (2004 - 2007) : Set ultra access, 24 fret HH TOM-through body (no FMT and SD pickups)
- 007 Blackjack (2004 only) : 26.5 Set ultra access, 24 fret HH TOM-through body (no FMT and SD pickups)
- 006 Elite (V3 2005 - 2007) : Set ultra access, 24 fret HS TOM-through body
- Hellraiser 006 (2008 only) : Set ultra access, 24 fret HH TOM-through body EMG pickups
- Hellraiser 006 FR (2008 only?) : Set ultra access, 24 fret HH Floyd Rose EMG pickups
- 006 Custom (????) : Bolt neck, 24 fret flat top HH hardtail

Schecter really needs to bring this guitar back; interestingly over the years it was produced it’s worn just about every typical guitar bridge possible - but my favorite is probably the HS/string through ultra-access ‘V3’ Elite. That said, the guitar I’m waiting to arrive is something different. But HS layout always makes more sense to me than HH anyway.

Am I missing any? (Apart from 007 Stargazer etc.)

When I got my Omen in 2003 I wished in retrospect I had gotten a 006 - until I realized the ‘cheap’ ones all have 22 fret necks. Still, they all look cool.

EDIT: Pic missing at least two 006s. See below.

u/ksilenced-kid — 13 days ago

[PC/Windows 3.1][1996/1997] Early online adventure game, with Ancient Egyptian references

This was an ‘educational’ type game- The ‘online’ aspect did not include any interaction with other players: It was apparently to access quiz questions or view multimedia experiences within the game.

You would move from screen to screen, think King’s Quest or a Super Solver’s game (maybe more point and click), looking for clues and answering questions. Very bright cartoony graphics, there was a CD and it was very ‘multimedia’ presentation (sound, animation etc.)

There was a room at the end of the level you would go in to type an answer, which I recall was either ‘Abu Simbel’, ‘Temple of Ramses’ or something similarly Egyptian. But somehow the game always crashed here for me and I could never get past that point.

I don’t think this was tied to a specific online service (ex. Prodigy or AOL), but we had those. It was its own CD Rom. During the period of time I played it, we didn’t have Windows 95 so it had to be either 3.1 or DOS based. Played in the US. Does this ring a bell?

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u/ksilenced-kid — 17 days ago

Best Tritip/Santa Maria bbq near OC?

I grew up between both SoCal and NorCal, and would love a closer/more authentic source of Tritip in OC. When I say Tritip, I mean ‘black on the outside, pink on the inside,’ and served sliced - preferably served with pinquito beans etc. but that is not a dealbreaker.

Lots of typical ‘southern’ style bbq places in OC offer Tritip, but don’t seem to know how it’s actually prepared or take significant liberties (not to pick on Wood Ranch because their other stuff is good, but their Tritip - a steak smothered in bbq sauce - is particularly ‘wrong’ for example.)

Meat Up BBQ (Placentia) is the one place I found local that could do it right about 75% of the time, but they closed their physical location and their food truck does not seem to offer tritip. Any other places that know what actual Tritip is here in OC?

u/ksilenced-kid — 19 days ago

SL1X / flat mount Floyd question

I assume that although the SL1X Floyd is flat-mount, there is still a small bit of ‘pull-up’ up-bend (given the bridge posts must be elevated above the guitar top to facilitate adjustment of the action).

Is that accurate? How much up-bend range is there compared to a non-recessed Floyd? Or is the Floyd truly ‘decked’ with zero up-bend (and how is that accomplished if so?)

Is the flat mount Floyd generally still set up parallel to the body, or do people usually purposely lean them back with this setup?

u/ksilenced-kid — 22 days ago

Jackson SLX - Kawasabi green, made in India

Had it almost ten years now, but only recently pulled it out for a setup/TLC (including the new trem arm pictured to replace a broken one) and realize it’s almost certainly one of the best guitars I own.

On paper, it is almost certainly my most capable guitar. It’s the only guitar I own (that I know of) with a reinforced neck, and the relief is just rock solid. I am a firm believer that a compound/conical radius is really the only logical way to go, and it’s awesome Jackson offers them across so many guitars across their range (even cheaper than this one). I have a Duncan Distortion set I can install if I want, but honestly the Duncan Designed HB102 (basically JB/Jazz copy) give me nothing to complain about; vocal distortion from the bridge, fairly nice cleans for the neck. I’ve also not been compelled to upgrade from the zinc block or saddles on the Floyd, but that I may be up for trying.

I’m still not sure exactly what the difference between Slime Green and Kawasabi Green is, but love them both. My only real feedback is the neck, it is fine but just feels a lot more ‘regular’ than I prefer for a metal guitar- Ideal would be thinner and flatter for me.

u/ksilenced-kid — 27 days ago

Re-bought my mid-2000s setup: Insane mode on

An identical red-face Spider and very similar Omen 6 are basically what I learned to play guitar on. I let both go for more or less stupid reasons, and still thought about them every so often.

I’m trying to get back into playing after a few years of not playing much, and it’s a weird sort of familiar to get my muscle memory back by using these two - Even though I technically have much ‘better’ gear (USA Fenders, USA G&Ls, several tube amps etc.) I still really enjoy both of these, they fill their niche.

u/ksilenced-kid — 1 month ago
▲ 19 r/tales

Took a deep breath, started Zestiria - And not regretting it, so far

(*Hoping to avoid spoilers, either in what I post or subsequent comments*).

I really wanted to avoid this game- not only because it’s basically bottom-ranked out of the whole series in a lot of people’s lists, but particularly because I finished Berseria not long ago.

And Berseria was the most enjoyable game I’ve played in a long time - particularly in terms of plot/characters. It launched itself straight into my top 5 games, ever. And I really, really did not want to spoil that with a poor continuation of the world/story that might ruin Berseria in retrospect.

Yet my curiosity got the best of me. I couldn’t stop thinking about Berseria’s world building etc. so I finally jumped in. >! I just got to Edna joining the party !< so about 9 hours in, and so far… Well, expectations were rock bottom- But I don’t hate it. And it is not (so far) ruining Berseria for me.

Being less than 10 hours in this could still easily change - and the game isn’t perfect. It’s obvious barring some huge change, Zestiria cannot touch Berseria, which I figured. For one thing the story seems almost ridiculously rote and stereotypical. So far the game/plot/characters is a total cliche (although I definitely expect a twist at some point per Tales usual, the game plays its tropes remarkably straight so far). Where Berseria subverted tropes, Zesteria seems like the -embodyment- of safe JRPG stereotypes:

And that alone isn’t enough for me to hate it, or understand why it’s regarded as the worst Tales game. Ironically that makes it more tolerable somehow:

I know Berseria came out second, but it doesn’t ‘feel’ like Zestiria is even trying to compete in the same league, which somehow makes it more acceptable. I can just think of it like… ‘Berseria awesomely happened, but that world still went on, and other things must have happened after. And even though we know nothing -that cool- could ever happen again, then at least it might be fun to see what became of that world?’

And to me, it doesn’t even do bad job at embracing standard JRPG-ness. As a matter of fact, I think I actually like it better than Vesperia so far (which is ranked as the #1 Tales game on a lot of lists, but I found just middling when I completed it).

I will reiterate I am nowhere near completing the game (so this all could change), but so far Zestiria has given me nothing to hate. The battle system is fine. The characters are rote and standard but fine. The systems don’t seem totally broken or anything. Guess I’ll keep playing, just not as urgently as I was enraptured with Berseria.

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u/ksilenced-kid — 2 months ago

Pickup DCR and Balance - Omen 6 / ‘Diamond Plus’

Has anyone taken DCR readings for their bridge and neck pickup? I’m specifically talking about the Schecter branded humbuckers pictured (specifically G&B baseplate pickups without fillister screw poles, which Schecter markets ‘Diamond Plus.’)

Mine is an older model (2007) pictured. I’m a bit shocked the pickups are so close in DC resistance (15.2 bridge, vs. 14.6 neck). I would nearly assume I erroneously got two bridge pickups, but the wiring sheath is colored differently (if that means anything).

Of course DC Resistance is not everything - there might still be different magnets used or other differences that could change the tone. Yet if the height of the pickups is set equally, the neck pickup is significantly louder; I have to set the bridge pickup a bit higher and neck a bit lower to balance. Most guitars do use lower DCR neck pickups for that reason, so the pickups can be more balanced at the same height.

Though honestly at this price point it makes sense if they just didn’t bother to produce a separate bridge and neck pickup - but it’s odd there is in fact a small difference in DCR. So wondering if others get similar DC readings to mine?

(Also not surprised if this changed in more recent models, as there seem to have been several visibly different pickup types marketed as ‘Diamond Plus’).

u/ksilenced-kid — 2 months ago
▲ 4 r/Guitar

Lace Sensors: Hot Gold (bridge) vs. Red differences?

I have a set of Hot Golds in one of my Strats- wondering how different the Red Sensor is?

The Hot Gold bridge (13.2K DCR) is only a little less than the Red (14.5k). Lace website describes the Red as a ‘fat humbucker’ while the Hot Golds are basically a ‘modern Strat’ or something to that effect.

In practice, the bridge Hot Gold is something I can basically treat like a humbucker- but with a bit more clarity, and a bit less honk (which makes me like the Hot Gold).

But years ago, I tried a Red in the bridge of a Strat Plus and loved it - So I want to try a Red again out of curiosity, but if it’s understood to be fairly close to the Hot Gold Bridge anyway, then I probably won’t need to bother.

Curious if anyone has tried both, and find a significant difference?

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u/ksilenced-kid — 2 months ago

Left is the photo from Guitar Center I nearly drove to, until ‘calculate shipping’ got an almost ridiculously low fee about 1/10th the cost of gas. So without playing it or knowing why it looked so gross, I bought it.

I owned this exact style Omen 6 between from 2003 - 2006 ; more on that later. I wanted another for two reasons- 1) Nostalgia, 2) I had not bought an HH hardtail guitar in some time. Unfortunately while my first Omen was bargain basement in price, new Omens (which are very similar but nicer visually) are more expensive by a notch - and they dragged the old ones with them. Finding a decent price seemed impossible till i found this initially gross one.

But in hand, it barely seems played; more like it was a wall decoration. The core guitar is very nice and the gunk (sticker residue?) shielded its still very nice finish. The two weirdest things are the nut (functional yet poorly shaped piece of tusq to replace the original plastic) and pickup rings (painted black, to cover at some point being painted red).

I remembered what I liked and didn’t like about my last Omen 6. And still this shocks me a bit; it doesn’t at all feel ‘bargain basement’ as I once thought:

- The neck is great; substantial without feeling huge, incredibly smooth satin finish, and extra large frets (almost no wear on mine). The neck joint is a tilted block, which fits my hand perfectly. I remember disliking the ‘volute’ on my original Omen 6, but I’m not picky about that now and concede the neck is just fine.

- The body is surprisingly heavy and substantial, for basswood. It is a thick full sized slab, not like a thinned down Squier Bullet/Affinity body. A bit noticeable on the forearm, but feels very quality with the carve, even without the binding.

- The stock pickups (though cheap looking) are very hot and full; using my typical ‘moderate’ gain channel settings, this thing saturates up a level even my Jackson SLX doesn’t do (equipped with Duncan Designed version of the JB). The Omen pickups are correspondingly a bit more dark and maybe slightly muddy/fuzzy, but the strength and compression of their output really makes playing fun, especially when I mostly have lower output pickup guitars.

TLDR - I expected a bargain basement stripped down guitar, but this feels and sounds a lot nicer than I remember. Maybe it is worth the cost of one of the new Omens.

Background: At college in 2003, I needed a cheap ‘dorm guitar’ (better than the Jay Turser I had with terrible honky sounding pickups). Tried a dozen at Guitar Center barely looking at headstocks or brands; Ibanez, Squier, whatever. The Schecter immediately stood out among those as best sounding and feeling; I paid about $150 for it with some sort of deal I think (MSRP meant nothing at that time for guitars).

Within a year I made stupid choices with that guitar. Despite picking the guitar in large part because of the pickups, I decided to try a few pickup changes without knowing what I truly wanted- All of which actually sort of disappointed me on first listen, because they weren’t as hot as the stock pickup (which is a dumb reason honestly). But I eventually landed on a Duncan Distortion, which at least wasn’t a bad pickup.

More stupidity; I changed directions and decided what I really wanted was a single coil guitar, so drilled a hole for a coil split/parallel toggle for the bridge pickup. Then added a phase switch. Of course I still was unsatisfied that it didn’t sound like a ‘real’ single coil. And I was a teenager, so wasn’t too careful about how I did this. I made the outside of the guitar uglier with some questionable paint of my own, threw on chrome humbucker rings (that weren’t quite high enough) - ugh. Eventually I sold the guitar to a friend so I could get the (single coil) guitar I wanted at that time.

But recently, I just also re-bought my first amp (of course a 1999 red Line 6 Spider) and found that it wasn’t nearly as bad as I thought back when I had it the first time. So my mind had been returning to my regrets for butchering the Schecter, and whether it was ever actually that bad - Well, now I can say it isn’t, and it is a pretty great guitar. Glad I could redeem it in my mind, and finally appreciate what I once had.

u/ksilenced-kid — 2 months ago

I just rebought my first ‘real’ electric from 2003, a used Omen 6. As the same model is still produced almost 25 years after I first bought mine (and the new one is almost identical minus a few details), I went down the rabbit hole of recent/currently available low-priced Schecter offerings:

(With one exception these guitars are 90% similar so only touching on ‘differences’ below, for the most part)

- **C6 Deluxe** ($399) : All dot inlays, X-jumbo frets, graphite nut, round neck heel, flat-top body (though with beveled edge), no binding. The Schecter website description indicates: “The Deluxe & Plus models are the first ‘entry level’ guitar to bear the Schecter Diamond Series name.” This weirdly implies that my 2003 Diamond Series Omen was something more than an ‘entry level,’ though it almost certainly was basic for the era (being even lower spec than the current Omen).

- **C1 Standard** ($399) : All dot inlays, jumbo frets, graphite nut, round neck heel, Roasted Maple/Purpleheart Multi-ply with Carbon Fiber Reinforcement Rods, flat top body (no carve, mahogany/maple), binding. ‘Diamond Standard’ (vs. Diamond Plus on the others) pickups with screw poles, and a Strat style hardtail. Definitely the outlier of the group. Amazing this has the same MSRP as above C6.

- **C1 SGR** (discontinued, apparently $450 in ‘18) : One fancy 12th fret inlay, medium frets, graphite nut, square neck heel, arched body, no binding. Sure these are discontinued, and with the C1 Standard now existing I can sort of see why. Visually it looks the most like my old Omen. There’s also a warning on the FAQ page that using strings above 9s voids your warranty, for some reason.

- **Omen 6** ($499) : ‘Gothic’ inlays, X Jumbo frets, graphtech/tusq nut, square neck heel, arched body, binding. Again note my 2003 Omen had no binding/dot inlays and a plastic nut (before I replaced it), but was otherwise similar to the current Omen in all other specs. Pre-2003 the Omen had a stop tail though.

Some final comments looking at those specs: The C-1 Standard seems to be a crazy good deal, though I’ve never played one. I can only assume that not carving the body top at all frees up a lot of cash for other, more materially important things like the neck construction (and arguably nicer body materials?) I hardly see how the same price C6 exists alongside this guitar. But I’m sure somewhere someone is picking up a C6 and loving it for what it is.

For being the most expensive, the Omen gives you the fanciest inlays, slightly upgraded nut, carved top, and the same X-Jumbo frets as the C6 has. I don’t necessarily fault the old neck joint, it’s still slanted for comfort and feels fine. The Omen looks nice, but the C1 still looks arguably much fancier (despite the flat top), and it’d be hard to pull myself from the C1 just based on specs.

The SGR (discontinued) seems to have been designed for the gap made, when the older style Omen got upgraded with nicer inlays etc. but I guess the new models made it obsolete. Honestly I’m in no market for any of these because the 2003 Omen (as I learned from almost 20 years not having one) fills its niche quite well.

But pretty weird to see how Schecter sees its most inexpensive price bracket now. While my 2003 actually doesn’t materially differ from the new Omen by much at all, that was back when MSRP (which was $450 in 2003) didn’t factor into real world guitar pricing - I definitely didn’t pay more than $200 for it, and at the time acknowledged it as one of the the most basic playable guitars you could buy (that wasn’t a total POS, plywood etc.)

Links to the above specs:

https://www.schecterguitars.com/C-6-Deluxe?quantity=1&custitem_color_master_list=236

https://www.schecterguitars.com/product/17488

https://www.schecterguitars.com/C-1-Sgr-By-Schecter?quantity=1&custitem_color_master_list=421

https://www.schecterguitars.com/Omen-6?quantity=1&custitem_color_master_list=212

u/ksilenced-kid — 2 months ago
▲ 19 r/line6

My current main amp (Marshall TSL60) blew up a few days ago, and will be stuck in the shop for a while- I took that as a sign to finally jump on this, which was for sale locally and had been tempting me for the last week or so.

An identical Spider was my first amp around 2001, but I eventually got frustrated, basically gave it away and got a Vox AD30VT (which I liked quite a bit more at the time). My main complaints were that the Spider could sound really muddy/undefined, and pretty much lacked dynamic sensitivity to pickups/guitar volume, in a way that made all my guitars sound the same (whether single coil or humbucker); even if they didn’t necessarily *sound bad* through it.

But I sort of regretted ditching the Spider ever since - Frankly I was a dumb kid who had no clue how to adjust an amp, and my guitars had various points of being equally wonky. It’s haunted me in a dumb way- For years I wanted to revisit the Spider I, but they rarely come up in decent condition and are usually unreasonably priced.

But I found the one pictured and have been playing it today, a few observations:

- I am not sure what I was doing that I thought it was so muddy/undefined back then. If I’m optimistic about my 19 year old self, maybe there was a firmware update my old amp didn’t get - or otherwise it was user error on my part in the settings. At any rate the amp sounds fine in that respect.

- Yes the amp models color the guitar tone a lot, but it’s unfair to say they lack dynamics or make ‘everything sound the same’ - Different output pickups, or different positions/settings on the guitar definitely sound different, you can clean up with volume etc. All the amp models seem to have a bit of compression to the sound that one could say makes things seem a bit ‘same-y‘ but not horribly so. It’s not necessarily an amazing sounding amp, but it’s hard to make it sound terrible.

- One thing that I only remembered when I plugged this one in: It is *loud*, and does not like being played quiet; even with the Master at 1 and the channel volume low, it is hard to set a quiet ‘practice’ volume - Even my TSL can do this fairly well, but the Spider demands at least slightly higher volumes than I am comfortable practicing at. Weird considering it’s still basically marketed as a ‘practice amp,’ (but not a consideration if you are actively playing with others).

I don’t plan on using the amp much and although it’s lasted this long, I don’t know how reliably a 25+ year old modeling amp would hold up under regular use - though apparently this amp had been getting regular use for years before I picked it up. If I was to use it, a foot-switch would pretty much be a requirement as fiddling with all the on-board buttons etc. does not lend itself toward active performance, especially if you want to use the effects (of which, the flange is notably better than I remember- even if I almost never want to use flange).

But it was an interesting experiment to revisit it, and find that it was a lot more competent than I gave it credit for at the time. I remember people claiming the Spider II and III were ‘way better’ than this amp when they came out, and basically everyone considered the OG red Spider to be trash. But I’m happy to have this one back in my stable and somewhat redeemed in my eyes.

u/ksilenced-kid — 2 months ago

I was just playing at a pretty quiet ‘practice’ volume for about 15 mins, and suddenly heard a loud ‘POP’ from the amp. I was still able to continue playing, and could still hear the guitar coming through the amp.

My immediate reaction was to flip it to standby- on doing so I got another loud POP. Tried to toggle standby a few times, and got more pops.

I looked at the tubes- Power tubes glowing, but do not seem to be red plating. I could tell that three of the preamp tubes were still lit (but V1 is shielded, and could not see that one directly). Turned the amp off at that point.

A few weeks ago, I did change the tubes - four 12AX7s , two new EL34s - I adjusted the bias to 80mV, as specified in the Marshall Service bulletins.

Pulled those tubes out despite them seeming visually fine, and swapped back in the old ones (which were removed functional). But that did not solve the issue:

It still pops when I flip it off standby. Actually, everything else still seems functional - but I am hesitant to turn it up or fully test it in this condition.

…At this point I’ve realized it needs to go to the shop, I will not be opening the amp to check anything. But wondering if anyone has any thoughts what might cause this problem.

reddit.com
u/ksilenced-kid — 2 months ago