I'm using an iO 7 in daily clean mode and 99.9% of my brushing is in the "green" pressure range but the brush heads don't seem to last anywhere close to 3 months. After about a month they are starting to look ragged. I buy the Oral B branded heads at BJs and they come in a 8 pack and believe they are authentic.
The smooth plastic of my iO 7 feels a bit slippery when I'm maneuvering the tool so I designed and made a TPU cover that nicely slides over the body. Did a 3d scan of the body; scan alignment and initial edits in Rhino and then reverse engineered in Fusion. Getting the right fit so it slides over the body just right took some trial and error printing. Printed in Polymaker PolyFlex 90A on a Bambu Lab X1C.
I believe the iO 9 and 10 have a textured body to improve grip, but not the 7. I have no need for even all the brushing features in the iO 7 so couldn't see spending $400 just to have a good grip.
The smooth plastic of my toothbrush feels a bit slippery when I'm maneuvering the tool so I designed and made a TPU cover that nicely slides over the body. Did a 3d scan of the body; scan alignment and initial edits in Rhino and then reverse engineered in Fusion. Getting the right fit so it slides over the body just right took some trial and error printing. Printed in Polymaker PolyFlex 90A on a BL X1C.
Needed to adapt a Zwilling vacuum pump to work with old style FoodSaver vacuum containers and accessories (e.g. wine cork & Ball Jar adapter). Printed in Bambu Lab TPU 95A HF. Works 1000% better than current generation FoodSaver handheld pumps. The TPU doesn't touch any food and since this is sucking air out, no air polluted by it's proximity to 3d print material comes in contact with the food.
A number of years ago FoodSaver made excellent heavy duty vacuum containers that actually maintained vacuum for long periods of time. They also had a plug-in handheld vacuum pump that was excellent. All this good FoodSaver stuff is long gone and replaced with a new style vacuum port going to much less effective containers along with a handheld battery operated pump which barely works. Of course if you have a full sized FoodSaver bag vacuum machine it can still work and be effective on the older containers. Some FoodSaver items like the wine cork and Ball Jar sealer still use the old style port. We move onto the Zwilling vacuum system so adapted their pump to old style FoodSaver made sense.
We have a 55 panel system with Enphase micro-inverters that was installed 13 years ago. It was sold to us as a 20 year lease where we paid up front and got to keep the SRECs. The system vendor was Astrum Solar which later sold to Direct Energy and then after several years it was listed as Astrum again on the Enphase Enlighten portal. Several years ago a company call Omnidian became the service agent for our system when a micro-inverter fails.
Today I got two calls from Sunrun asking if we pay over $1,200/yr to the utility (Eversource). They said if we do, they would do a performance analysis on our system. I suspect the real motive was to sell upgrades but we never got that far. Sunrun knew all about our system and the lease agreement. It's unclear where they got that information. Never before has Sunrun been part of our system and from what I can tell Omnidian is still the servicing agent.
Has anyone else run into this?
This past March I was on a single engine Cessna Air Milford flight from Milford Sound to Queenstown. Was taking some pictures during the flight of the scenery and the Garmin glass cockpit and noticed this cheat sheet taped up. I assume it's heading corrections. I'd assume the Garmin instrumentation already knows this info. Is this for backup in case the electronics become unreliable?
I previously posted a picture of the crazy poor install of a replacement Fios cable entering our house. I designed and 3d printed an elbow to mate with the corrugated conduit using ASA filament with 3 mm wall thicknesses. Today a different technician came out and did an excellent job making this right.
Our FiOS cable had to be replaced and this is how they routed the new one into the house. Rather than remove the old conduit/junction fittings they just routed out of their new conduit coming up from the ground through the old stuff. Seems like the new conduit placed right over a drip edge will just fill with water and freeze in the winter.
FWIW the original install was the old thick cable not placed in conduit buried about 3 inches down.
Went to a Toyota dealership parts department today to buy some replacement inserts for a 2024 Cross Hybrid XSE (USA version vehicle built in USA). They didn't have them and couldn't even tell me the part numbers.
Anyone know the part numbers?
Was moving my bicycle from the indoor trainer to outdoor use so got out my rear wheel. Since this is an old Powertap G3 hub I decided to replace the 2032 battery while the wheel was off the bike and the cassette slid off the other side which had never happened in the 20+ times I've changed this battery in the past. Unlike an official Campy freehub the locknut does not directly screw into the freehub itself. It seems like a spacer might be missing. Any ideas? I couldn't find any spacers that fell off.
Frustrated by how easily the original lift handles seem to break? This is a compatible lift handle that tries to follow the design sense of the original that can be 3d printed with minimal support material. I've printed this in several materials with success. My wife likes the surface feel when using glass fiber and says they are easier to grip. Personal choice but it should work in many different material. Project files at: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2756907-bali-honeycomb-shade-lift-handle
Note: The file at Makerworld does not include PETG-GF because Bambu Lab doesn't allow 3rd party filaments in 3mf print files and they don't have a PETG-GF of their own.
I'm admittedly fairly new to Rhino. I'd like to cut away part of the clip edges to carry forward a fillet-like feature that mimics the handle. I've copied the edge of the handle at the meeting point of the two parts and created some shapes that could serve to used in a boolean operation but I've not been able to make that work. Strictly speaking that curve was not created via FilletSrf (which failed with my geometry) but used BlendSrf (using curvature) that worked.What approach would folks out there suggest? The overall goal is to make this look like one design rather than two pieces stuck together.
Originally I designed the clip in Fusion and brought it over to Rhino as a mesh. I had no luck with that so I duplicated the clip design in Rhino and extruded "planar surfaced" elements from what I would call "sketches" in Fusion. Working in a non-parametric design world is a whole different way of thinking and keeping manual notes on things. The handle is loosely based off a 3d scan trying to capture the broad sense of the original part without being too concerned being all that accurate.
In case anyone is wondering, the part is a 3d printed replacement for Bali pleated shades. With daily use the OEM parts break too often. I'll eventually post the print files on Makerworld and/or Printables.
Wife complained about drawer organizers always sliding to the back every time the drawer was closed. So I made a custom organizer to pad out the back. Was too large to print as a single part. Just used the cut feature in Bambu Studio to add some dovetail joints. I probably would have glued some simple tongue and groove joints instead to avoid needing supports for the dovetail but this worked. Printed in Basic PETG.