r/Fios

I'm on a 300Mbps plan with Verizon Fios. I bought this TPlink router when i moved to my new apartment two months ago and everything was working just fine. However, i have been having micro lagging in games the last few days. Eight out of ten times i run the 3 minute test on packetlosstest, there is more than 10% packet loss. It seems like packets just stop transfering around the 2:30 mark on most of the tests. I tried to plug the ethernet cable from the ONT directly to my Mac mini and the test show only under 0.5% packet loss consistently.

Did my router just broke randomly? I did not change any settings on it? I tried factory resetting the router but that didn't help. Any input would be appreciated.

https://preview.redd.it/h5u8690xxdkh1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=035d46203af99c279c53ae0d5d6ae3811d7f384a

A few weeks ago I lost service and it took a week for someone to come swap out my fau;ty ONT. Now in Muskegon, Mi we are down again and I'm on day 2 without service - why does it take so long to fix this, and why does Giga spend the entire session trying to sell me faster fiber when they can't keep my existing connection up? Very frustrating, regretting leaving Xfinity - they were slow and terrible, but at least their support fixed outages in a few hours or less.

I've spent a bit of time testing different scenarios with the new CHR30A routers/extenders, as they are pretty much brand new, and there is very little information out there so far.

If you have anything you'd like me to test or take a look at, or if you have any information you think might fit here, leave a comment!

Datasheet
User Manual
Mounting Bracket User Manual (Uses same mounting bracket as the CR1000 routers)

General Information

• CHR30A routers and extenders are the same physical device. They decide which device they are acting as when you first connect them. This can be changed later on with a factory reset if needed.
• Any CHR30A acting as an extender will automatically clone the Wi-Fi configuration (SSID, Password, Radio Config, etc.) from the router. If you change any of this on the router, all extenders will automatically begin to use the updated settings. This cannot be changed, there is no manual configuration for these settings on the extenders.
• For the above reason, all CHR30A units come with a blank sticker covering the default Wi-Fi information. The idea is you peel off the one on the router, and leave it in place on any device acting as an extender, since the information under the sticker will be irrelevant for a device acting as an extender.
• They also come with stickers in the box that say Router and Extender if you wish to further label them.
• The extenders can be connected over Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Coax (Coax requires MoCA Expansion Modules for the router and each extender).

MoCA Expansion Modules

https://verizon.com/mocaexpansionmodule

• Part Number: EXPM10A
• User Guide
• Slots into back of the CHR30A under the cover labeled Expansion Port (Cover must be removed).
• This port and the module are SFP, however they are not compatible with other SFP/SFP+ devices. Attempting to insert another SFP module into the CHR30A results in it getting power, but otherwise not being recognized. Attempting to insert the MoCA Expansion Module into another device like a router or switch results in it not being recognized.
• Supports MoCA 2.5, 2.0, 1.1, and 1.0
• Required for some FiOS TV products, though this will be changing in the future as everything moves to IPTV and old equipment ages out.

Extender Compatibility

CE1000A / CME1000

• I don't have either of these to test, if you have tried one please let me know your results. The official guidance from Verizon is that they are not compatible.

E3200

• DOES NOT work.
• Coax connects @ 2.5Gbps
• Coax status lights on back of both the CHR30A and E3200 are green
• Status Light on E3200 changes between dim white and yellow
• When Status Light is dim white, LAN is bridged and Ethernet works but E3200 Wi-Fi stops broadcasting and admin page becomes inaccessible
• Light occasionally goes yellow and connection drops for about 5-10 seconds, so even though Ethernet LAN does kind of work, the connection is never stable.
• Does not work over Ethernet backhaul either
• Does not work using MoCA Ethernet Adapter instead of MoCA Expansion Module
• CHR30A never recognizes the E3200 as another network device

ASK-MAE340 (MoCA Ethernet Adapter)

• Works without any issue

WCB6200Q (FNE / FiOS Network Extender)

• DOES NOT work.
• No coax link at all

ECB5240M (FNA / FiOS Network Adapter)

• I don't have one of these to test, if you have tried one please let me know your results.

G1100 (FiOS Quantum Gateway)

• If you are using one of these repurposed as a MoCA adapter, this does still work with the CHR30A without issue

Actiontec MI424WR

• If you are using one of these repurposed as a MoCA adapter, this does still work with the CHR30A without issue

 

I'll do my best to answer any other questions people may have, and keep this post updated with any additional relevant information as it's discovered. Hope someone finds this helpful!

Their tech support is advertised as being available 24/7, but every time I actually call after hours, I get stuck in this ridiculous loop:

First, I spend a few minutes talking to an AI chatbot. Then I'm told “your call is being transferred to an agent.”

Great, finally getting a real person.

Except no agent answers and I'm told that I'm calling outside of their support hours and that I need to schedule a callback.

So... how exactly is that 24/7 tech support?

If the phone system is going to tell me an agent is available and transfer me to one, only to talk to another chat bot saying they're closed, that's not 24/7 support. That's an automated system pretending support is available.

Really frustrating when you're dealing with an internet problem and need actual technical support, not an AI chatbot and a callback appointment.

I live in a 3 story townhouse and we're currently using the CR1000B with 1 extender (which I feel barely works). I have a Sony TV mounted in the dining room no more than 12 feet from the router and it buffers all the time. The townhouse is actually on the smaller side, so I can't figure out the weak signal. We have 6 TVs, multiple laptops, tablets, phones and gaming systems. I am looking at the TP-Link BE6500 Dual-Band WiFi 7 Router. Would this be sufficient? Should I also purchase a different beacon for the basement and hard wire it to the router? TIA

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Does anyone know if the Milford,NJ (908) 995 exchange is currently being upgraded for FIOS we are seeing new wires being run in most the exchange. They are not connected yet that just hanging down from the poles. Zip 08848

Do I keep waiting or cancel the order? I've never seen it take this long.

My fios is out. Im in Bergen county near Hackensack. Anyone else having issues?

Edit #1 - Followed guidance from sdrawkcab25 and everything came up perfectly without the Verizon router. I will update this post with any issues or continued success so others can benefit. Must say, the interface lag and picture seems much better.

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For 16+ months, I've successfully run the CR1000A behind my UDM set-up on QAM. I wrote a detailed post in 2025 which basically put the VZ equipment on seperate VLAN, Bridge Mode, and no WAN, only a LAN connection to my UDM switch. Using FIOS VZ SSID-TV on TV+ and coax from router to VMS worked great until we had a 2 day power failure which forced me to reset the TV+ boxes and reconnet again. This triggered the 7-8 day need to reset TV+.

I noticed I was converted to QAM-Less (IPTV) so would like to figure out how to move forward instead of backwards. I think the IPTV picture looks better, response time is snappier and my Bravia 9 85" TV can handle the few bugs like Dolby Vision with really good picture quality.

I'd like to find a way to run pure IPTV for the better picture quality and future benefits. I'm on 1G plan, so my ONT still has the coax.

Here's what I done so far ...

1. I did nothing else but remove the Coax from VMS unit and keep TV+ connected to VZ SSID-TV it still runs fine, in fact maybe better. But this only lasted 8 days.
2. Reset again. Tried running in pure IPTV mode. Connected the TV+ with special VZ power/ethernet adapter to my UDM switch (with port set to VZ VLAN in settings) and ethernet into the back of the VMS4100. It would not allow me to activate the DVR ... tried rebooting and multiple attempts with no success.
3. My VMS will not activate unless TV+ is connected to VZ SSID-TV regardless of coax or ethernet. Either I'm doing something wrong or have an out of date VMS unit or firmware. For 2 years the green light has been blinking on the VMS and VZ support said don't worry about it if everthing is working.
4. Reset again. Set-up TV+ with VZ SSID-TV wifi and Coax from CR1000A in bridge mode into VMS 4100ATV. Everything activated (account/DVR). I then manually connected the ethernet back into both the TV+ and VMS units.

Everything is working fine for now ... time will tell. See attached screen shots which shows my TV+ unit is up to date 2.1.16 with firmware 14.06.15.08.17.

The VMS is not reachable, but shows activated. I can still pause and rewind TV shows so something must be working?

5. For those with UDM equipment as your main router, I have enabled IGMP proxy and specifically UPnP only for the VZ VLAN, (with Secure mode and NAT Port Mapping Protocol enabled by default).

6. As an aside, I skip / don't sign into all the android set-up, uncheck the android apps and decline the questions. This gets me through the final set-up process. I use a Shield TV Pro instead.

Appreciate any thoughts from those that have successfully eliminated the VZ router for TV+ with DVR on a 1 Gig or lower plan with IPTV? I know the 2G and 5G plans have a newer ONT without coax?

VMS4100ATV Status Screen connected to UDM ethernet.

TV+ Status Screen connect via ethernet to UDM ethernet

I've been dealing with a frustrating situation since few weeks ago. Internet works fine for one day and then suddenly the speed drops to under 10mbps and sometimes it fixes itself but most of the time I need to reboot the router.

Tech support is unreachable so I can't get anyone to come look at it. It's infuriating they charge so much yet have a crappy automated system that is not that useful. How can I get to speak to someone?

(Note: I worked through this troubleshooting with Claude and had it help draft this write-up from my notes — wanted to be upfront about that.)

Sharing this in case it saves someone else a support call. Had degraded speeds on a Fios 1 Gig plan for a while — noticeable both over Wi-Fi and wired ethernet — and the root cause turned out to be something a full factory reset wasn't even necessary to fix.

Setup: CR1000A router, Fios 1 Gig plan. Speeds had felt slow generally, on both Wi-Fi and any wired devices, for some time before I isolated it. Bought a Cat 6 cable and a USB-C-to-ethernet adapter specifically to rule out Wi-Fi as a factor and test wired throughput directly.

What I found, step by step:

1. First wired test (plugged into a standard LAN port on the router): ~83 Mbps down/up. Low, but I initially chased the wrong lead — turned out iCloud Private Relay was on and routing the test through a relay server three states away, adding latency and skewing the number.
2. Turned off Private Relay, retested on the same port: ~90 Mbps down/up. Confirmed the link itself was negotiating full Gigabit (checked in OS network settings — 1000baseT full duplex), so it wasn't a cable/adapter/link-speed issue. Just a flat ~90 Mbps ceiling on a connection that should do 900+ — matching what I'd also been seeing on Wi-Fi.
3. Plugged the same cable/adapter directly into the ONT instead of the router (bypassing it entirely): ~924 Mbps down, ~850 Mbps up. Same cable, same computer, same test server. That ruled out the ISP/provisioning side completely — the fiber line itself was delivering full speed. The router was the bottleneck, for both wired and Wi-Fi clients.
4. Looked into a known CR1000A firmware bug where the 10Gb LAN port specifically caps upload speed — but I'd tested on a standard Gigabit port, not the 10Gb one, so that didn't match (also that bug reportedly only affects upload; mine was capped symmetrically on both directions).
5. Was about to do a full factory reset. As prep, I just moved the WAN cable from the ONT back into the router (no reset button pressed, no reboot) — and retested: ~908 Mbps down, ~818 Mbps up wired, and Wi-Fi came back up to a healthy ~727 Mbps down/~189 Mbps up. Both fixed just from cycling the physical WAN link.

Takeaway: the router wasn't hard-capped at 90 Mbps — it had drifted into some kind of degraded state that throttled throughput across the board (wired and wireless both), and simply disconnecting/reconnecting the WAN cable cleared it. No factory reset needed. I'd also had intermittent connection drops for a few weeks before this that a router-only reboot (not the ONT) would temporarily fix — in hindsight I think it's the same underlying issue, just showing up as a speed cap instead of a full drop this time.

If you're seeing degraded speeds — wired or Wi-Fi — on a CR1000A:

• Rule out Private Relay / VPN on your test device first.
• Check your OS network settings to confirm the ethernet link actually negotiated Gigabit (not just plugged in).
• If you have access to the ONT, testing directly into it (temporarily swap the router's WAN cable for your laptop) is the cleanest way to isolate router vs. ISP.
• Before a full factory reset, try just unplugging/replugging the WAN cable between the ONT and router. Cheap thing to try, and it fixed it for me — both wired and Wi-Fi.

Still monitoring in case it recurs — will update if a factory reset ends up necessary down the line.

Just showed up on my account for me, I live in southern Worcester county- $120mo. Very tempted but I think at this point I'll just wait for Black Friday deals to lock in another $10-$20mo savings.

Have any current customers successfully gotten CS to lower the price on 5gig a bit?

I have gigabit service. My current setup is a CR1000a with 2 CE1000a extenders connected via coax. The MoCA LAN performs beautifully, but the only LAN connection that can get than 200 Mbps upload is an ethernet connection to the router itself. Any other point on my LAN will choke around 200 Mbps upload.

From what I looked at, it seems that the CE1000a is compatible with the CHR30a, but I'm wondering if replacing the router and leaving the extenders in place would improve the whole thing via better handing on the CHR30a's end as a main router.

My 15-year-old owns a Windows workstation, but we do not have the Windows login credentials. I have the passwords for all of the other devices in the house.

We have Verizon Fios, but the parental controls available through the Fios app are fairly limited. There used to be options to create rules to restrict internet access on specific devices during certain days or hours, but the controls are not as granular as I would like.

Is there a way to set up something on my home network that would allow me to monitor the traffic going through the network without needing direct access to his computer? Ideally, I would like to be able to:

• Block specific websites or categories of websites
• See reports of websites/domains accessed
• Set time-based internet access restrictions for specific devices
• Monitor or control network access without logging into or installing anything directly on his Windows computer

If so, could you please recommend the best approach or type of network solution that would provide these capabilities? We have a G3100 and a E3200 and have both internet and TV through Verizon.

Thank you!

I had Fios internet and home phone installed this last Monday. Internet is working great. But the technician said it was too late in the day to get the phone number ported over and activated , but it would be done by 12 noon Tuesday. When it wasn’t done by end of day Tuesday, I called support and 2 different reps told me it would be done by Thursday. Which of course it wasn’t. Of course, the phone is showing up on my account and probably being billed for it. Not sure what my next course of action is: don’t feel like waiting another 45 minutes on hold for support just to have them tell me something that’s not true. Any ideas? Thx.