Image 1 — I can't tell - pH too high or too low?
Image 2 — I can't tell - pH too high or too low?

I can't tell - pH too high or too low?

For a month or so my test strips have had this odd, not fully saturated color results. I'm attributing this to the pH being somehow really out of whack. I thought it was low so I added 7oz of "pH up" about 3 hours ago. The test strips looks about the same.

It can be difficult to tell in photos, but I would describe the color as "pale red"

  1. Is my pH off the scale on the high side or low side?
  2. If high side, is muriatic acid the quickest way to adjust?
  3. Is this the correct order of adjustment:
    1. get pH on the scale and close to optimal
    2. Adjust alkalinity (if needed)
    3. Adjust chlorine (if needed)
    4. Repeat in small increments until everything is back in range
u/mabee_steve — 13 days ago

Considering VLAN design change - feedback/advice wanted

I don't want to overdue it, so I'm posting this here before moving forward with the changes.

A few quick facts to set context:

  • Unifi UCG router
  • 2 Home Assistant instances, (house and shop)
  • Almost no cloud anything - Spotify is the only service, I believe
  • Very pessimistic about big tech/cloud. I lean self host and privacy focused
  • No firewall ports open to WAN, I use Tailscale for external access

I'm on V1 of my first network setup with VLANs and it's working pretty well. I have what I think is a pretty vanilla setup:

  • Default - (Secure Zone) important stuff (laptops, mobile phones, NAS)
  • Guest - (Unsecure Zone) Basically just supports our guest WiFi network
  • Cameras - (Unsecure Zone) No internet access, only allowed outbound NTP (port 123) access to NAS
  • IoT - (Unsecure Zone)

I use Home Assistant and as I learn more and add additional devices, I've started to revisit my thinking on my VLAN design and I've identified some concerns:

  1. Everything, including my HA server is on `IoT`. This means they're blocked from `DEFAULT`, but still have internet access (duh)
    1. I consider my HA server "important stuff" and I'm doubting the decision to have it living with the savages of the `IoT` - I'm considering moving HA to `Default`. Home HA is running on rPi, shop HA is a Virtual Box VM running on Linux mint (if any of that matters?)
    2. Most of the devices on `IoT` don't actually need web access (I purchase with this goal in mind). This is making me consider splitting `IoT` and create a new VLAN `IoT_no_web` that would not have internet access
  2. My automation journey is slowing taking on a more industrial/OT flavor. Yes, it still a residential project and shop building, but I'm starting to add Modbus (TCP) and eyeballing some PLC setups for some of my machinery.
    1. It feels weird to put Modbus gear or a PLC on an "IOT" network with Smart toasters and WiFi lightbulbs.
    2. Considering if I need yet another VLAN named `OT` where I put all my trusted automation stuff (Modbus gear, HA server, PLCs, etc.)
      1. Where to dry the line between `IoT` and `OT`? Ugh, I'm going in circles!

I'll stop there and be amazed if anyone reads this whole thing. I'm suffering from analysis-paralysis at the moment. I have a problem in front of me at the moment where this new Modbus module needs to be put on the correct VLAN, but I'm stuck with this bigger redesign concept in my head.

I'm not TRYING to make things overly complicated, but I don't know if what I'm considering is excessive overkill, or reasonable and warranted.

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u/mabee_steve — 1 month ago

12v bluetooth speaker without "light show" or persistent "lights off" setting

I'm trying to find a 12v (or 48v!) permanently installed bluetooth speaker for my cart. I didn't think this would be difficult, but everything I'm finding on Amazon has multi-colored LEDs that try to create some sort of party vibe. OK, I suppose there are some people that may want that, but I certainly do not.

I contacted one manufacturer (Ehaho) to ask if they could be turned off and if the setting would persist power cycles. To my surprise, I received an excellent, detailed response confirmed that in fact the setting would not survive a power cycle. Bummer. I've sent a couple other emails to manufacturers but no other replies yet.

I'm writing this post in hopes someone here as similar requirements and has found a suitable speaker.

My requirements:

  1. Pitch black mode - I want zero light coming from my speaker (is that so strange?)
    1. exception would be LED power indicator or very small screen or display that I can cover with tape
    2. If it has lights, fine, but I want to be able to turn off with a physical switch or persistent (i.e., stored in non volatile memory) setting
  2. $250 max budget, less would be nice
  3. Hardwired to 12v or 48v source
  4. Permanent install - (i.e., I don't want a portable bluetooth speaker - doing that now with my Makita speaker on the floor)
  5. Decent sound, like typical bluetooth speakers, maybe a little better considering the larger size
  6. Bonus - If left on when power disconnected will turn back on when power restored. E.g., music was on when I turned key off, music resumes when key turned back on. Likewise, if music is off, music does not resume when key turned on

I don't want a typical automotive stereo with external speakers and all that. I'm trying to keep it clean and simple.

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u/mabee_steve — 1 month ago

2012 Yamaha Adventurer 1 (YTF1X2) wiring diagram needed

I just had a super minor short on the 12v light circuit and everything is dead. :|

I've looked online but can't manage to find the wiring diagram for this cart. I'm hoping there is a fuse somewhere, but I can't find it after a couple hours of tracing loom and wires around.

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u/mabee_steve — 2 months ago

Considering a Gas Yamaha Cart

I'm not a golf cart enthusiast and know very little about golf carts. What I do know is that 15+ years ago I had a friend with a Yamaha gas golf cart that you could jump in, hit the gas and it would start up and go. It was great, I really liked it.

I live on a bit of land and I do a lot of work all over the place. I'm sick of constantly jumping in my F150 to drive 200yds, park, get out, open/close doors, etc. I want an "easier" way to run around and take care of smaller tasks. Quick in and out, I mean like stepping out while it's still rolling that final .5MPH before it stops.

I'm leaning towards the gas option because I have a distant, limited positive experience with them. Batteries for electrics seem so darn expensive and I worry about how often I'll need to charge them. I will sometimes leave the cart at my house overnight and sometimes at my shop, but I don't want to have a charger at each. Gas I can just swing by the shop and top it off.

Maybe my logic is flawed, my assumptions wrong and that's part of why I'm posting here. Before I go on the hunt for a used cart, I wanted to share the above to see if there are strong opposing opinions and also ask a few gas Yamaha specific questions:

  1. Are parts readily available for the Yamaha gas carts? Are there certain parts that are very difficult to find and cause headaches for owners? For example, I don't worry about getting parts for my Kubota tractor. I don't like the price, but I know my local dealer can get what I need. Is it like that for the Yamaha gas carts?
  2. I know electric is superior for torque, but how do the gas carts do on fairly steep gravel driveways? For example, my F150 with an empty box is almost impossible to not break a tire loose and I often have to switch into 4HI to avoid tearing up my road. Can the Yamaha gas carts scoot right up steep, short drives or do they tend to struggle in this situation? Do they stall out or just go really slow when dealing with steep grades?
  3. What are the most common failure points of Yamaha gas carts?
  4. I live in the US PNW and we get around 100" of rain where I live. This cart would be in that rain much of the time. Are they well designed when it comes to shedding water and keeping water out of areas that could be harmed if constantly wet?
  5. Anything else you think I should know before I go shopping?
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u/mabee_steve — 2 months ago

Arguing with Claude about check valve and pressure differential

I'm adding a pool heater to my 15' Intex pool. My pump moves far more GPH than the heater is rated for. I thought I'd ask Claude ("AI") how most people handle this without downsizing the pump. The plan it provided seemed correct and I've ordered (and received) the parts. But just before I started cutting and gluing it occurred to me: Check valves need pressure differential to function correctly and this plumbing circuit will have equal pressure!

Here's a basic diagram of the plan:

https://preview.redd.it/eo18rdezisih1.png?width=687&format=png&auto=webp&s=a2dde9426943ebfa1d8fac2454f1968d9c7e7a49

The idea is that I'll partially open the ball valve to permit partial flow through the heater. I'm adding a flow meter to dial it in to the 700GPH it wants. What I see as a problem is that the remainder and majority of the flow will take the bypass line, hit the Tee marked in red and effectively present the same or similar pressure on the back side of the check valve.

As stupid as this sounds, I've been arguing this point with Claude trying to get it to admin "Oh, you're right, good catch!" but it won't. This is making me doubt myself, which is the silliest thing ever, but here I am! LOL...

Anyway, am I correct or will this just somehow work?

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u/mabee_steve — 2 months ago

RJ45 jack intended to be used as a cable end?

Hard to describe... but I'm trying to find out if there are RJ45 jacks that are designed to be used in a manner similar to how an RJ45 male end is used. What I mean is, clamped to the cable outer sheath, maybe a strain relief, maybe an overmold or cover that makes it all appear clean. Like the female end of a "Cat6 extension code"

I know about female/female couplers, I know about keystone jacks - that's not what I'm asking about.

My use case is that I have an exterior run to a small junction box. This is all pretty temporary stuff, maybe 1-2 years, but I still try to do a quality job with my work. Inside the box I connected a keystone jack the home-run line. Then I have an AP on a post 20' away with a direct bury cat6 line from the AP to this junction box. Inside the junction box I connect these two. I could also use the aforementioned female/female coupler, but that adds 2 more connection points.

I just found myself wondering (and wanting) a solution that was designed to be used in this manner.

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u/mabee_steve — 2 months ago

Clover "lawn" suddenly developed a large problem - need ideas

See my comment below for additional, close-up images. And here's a youtube video I just made: https://youtu.be/E5bi5Nmr5us

We have a 2 year old clover/mix "lawn" that we started from seed. It's been a champ and 3 weeks ago when we left for vacation it was absolutely thriving. Standing up, white flowers everywhere and covered in bumble bees. Great.

We came back 8 days later and noticed a large unhealthy looking area. Flowers are dead, clover is laying down and generally it looks sickly. While we were gone we did get a few inches of rain, but that's isn't unusual. We had a few hot days, but nothing extreme our atypical for our region.

Additional Details

  1. No septic, oil or other subterranean infrastructure or services in that area
  2. Not a low-spot in the yard. In heavy rains, water does not pool in that area

Anyway, I'm at a complete loss of what to do or even what the issue is. Has anyone experienced anything like this? Any ideas?

u/mabee_steve — 3 months ago

Help with images in this sub please

I'll delete this after I get an answer, but I can't figure out how to make a post here and my images appear in the main list of posts. I can see the images when I view my post, but when I'm looking at the list of all of them mine is just text. I also see some people manage to get a gallery of images.

How in the world do you do this? Please help. Here's what I see when creating a post:

https://preview.redd.it/o6j8qzzjsxah1.png?width=1178&format=png&auto=webp&s=30a1c7e28128c12101805b6dee270253d1ccf240

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u/mabee_steve — 3 months ago

SW WA Plant ID - Pearly Everlasting?

https://preview.redd.it/yfi11g488rah1.jpg?width=1871&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d1c381e46aa498d613280869b83d17009caab58c

underside showing fine, white hairs

I was walking my property with a knowledgeable friend today and was told this plant is Pearly Everlasting. I'm not so sure, in fact I don't think it is, but I also don't have any idea WHAT it is!

Anyone know?

edit: trying to figure out why my post doesn't show the image

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u/mabee_steve — 4 months ago

Billing/cost question

I've read this page and a couple others and I still can't understand our billing/subscription situation.

My little company has a Team account. I'm not the one that signed up so I don't know anymore than that, but I'm assuming we pay a flat, predictable monthly subscription that includes some quantity of tokens.

Lately I've been using Claude Code and I just ran /usage to see where I was at and noticed monetary values displayed.

https://preview.redd.it/0jz8nq4jpbah1.png?width=929&format=png&auto=webp&s=bce6e4fbe7822723fba48f13286dc2b416c8421c

Putting aside the fact I'm probably being very inefficient with my context length, etc.

  1. What does the $33.93 value mean?
    1. Is that showing additional charges on top of the subscription?
  2. If it IS additional charges, why? My usage is low (12%) so it would seem I've not exhausted my included tokens.

I'm completely confused how the billing and fees work and how to interpret what I'm seeing in this screen shot. If anyone can explain to me like I'm 5, OK 10, I'd really appreciate it.

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u/mabee_steve — 4 months ago

SW WA - Which Phacelia? Is it Phacelia?!

I'm in Southwest Washington, West of the cascades.

I've been using the PlantNet app to try and identify plants on my property, but it feels like it's never the right match. I review the proposed matches and usually I find myself thinking it's the one with a 1% probability rather than the higher rated one. Point is, I have no confidence in my identification attempts.

I then checked in my "Plants of the Pacific Northwest Coast" and none of the Phacelia pictured match what I have - maybe it's NOT a phacelia? Oh man...

I'd also appreciate if any PNW users have an app or field guide that they find very effective for identification. A tool that uses the process of elimination to narrow options until ultimately you've successfully identified a specimen.

u/mabee_steve — 4 months ago

Nag/Snooze Recurring Tasks/Chores App?

My family keeps missing really important things, like REALLY important things (check chickens water, close up shop doors at night, install hose bib freeze protection, etc.) I hate it because I know this is the type of problem that a well designed app could handle well.

Requirements:

  1. Available on iOS
  2. Create recurring tasks (hourly, daily, weekly, monthly, annually, etc)
  3. Snooze a task for a set period of time - My wife may be late getting back from dropping kids at school when "Check chicken water" pops up - she needs to snooze for 30 minutes so it nags her again and it's not just lost and we have unplanned chicken dinner
  4. Multiple users/family support (this may be a tough one) - Assigning tasks/chores to different family members

Nice to Have:

  1. Web interface
  2. Import/Export everything for backup or migration to another solution
  3. One off assign a task to another member (wife has migraine and can't TCB so she assigns her chores to me for the day(s))
  4. Set away/vacation period for all tasks or categories of tasks. If we go on vacation for 10 days and have animals under separate control, we don't want to get alerts everyday. The ability to silence/suspend everything for a period of time would be great.
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u/mabee_steve — 5 months ago

PNW - Carpenter and Velvety Tree Ants - Help Needed

I'm in SW Washington State (US) and live in a rural, heavily forested property. We have velvety tree ants (Liometopum spp.) in many area on our property and only when they're near structures do I worry about them. Historically, I've used Advance bait and poison (Abamectin 0.011%) with great success - the tree ants LOVE it and dutifully carry it away to the nest, the next day no signs of ants, at least for a months/year.

But that's not my problem at the moment. Today I noticed my kids clubhouse is infested with Carpenter Ants (Camponotus spp.) They're everywhere, outside on the walls, inside on the floor, walls and on the beds. No way I can let the kids sleep out tonight. I went for my bottle of Advance and sprinkled a few small piles of granules near ants to see how they would respond and they've completely ignored it.

Advance is primarily marketed as "Carpenter ant bait", but the carpenter ants don't seem at all interested. This is making me doubt my identification of the ants, though only barely... really, I think I have it correct, but I'm confused why the bait isn't working.

I'm posting this all here for a few reasons;

  1. Do you concur with my identification based on the basic photos I've supplied?
  2. Any idea why the Advance works so well with Velvety Tree Ants and not the Carpenters?
  3. Anyone have successful Carpenter and management tips? (the typical advice online doesn't apply; I can't "remove the forest" - there is literally acres of dead and decaying woods all around us, everywhere.) I need a solution that will let me knock them back a bit for a while, but I know I won't be able to eliminate them long-term (nor do I really want to)

Please let me know if any additional info would be helpful.

u/mabee_steve — 5 months ago

Hi,

I'm pretty new to Linux and never had or worked with a Micro SD card before. I have an Amazon Basics 128GB card that was formatted as exFat usign the Disks graphical utility that comes with Mint. My Son has been having a lot of problems with the device he's using the card with and I figured maybe the card was corrupted or had an issue. No big deal, I thought, I'll just reformat it, I thought....

WELL, holy-Hell! I've been at it for over an hour and I can't manage to do ANYTHING to this card. It's kind of incredible! Using the Disks utility I've tried reformatting and tried deleting the Partition. I receive errors like:

>Error synchronizing after initial wipe: Timed out waiting for object (udisks-error-quark, 0)

Using Thunar (file manager) I can't even delete files from the darn thing. They appear to be deleted, but when I unmount and mount the card they're all back.

I've tried GParted and it acts as if it's working, that is there aren't any errors and when I apply the tasks it reports success, but sure enough nothing is actually DONE to the card. For example, tried to re-format to FAT32 and it completed with a success message, however the same partition is still there as well as the files.

(This would be a lot easier if I could paste screen shots).

Anyway, I'm wondering a few things:

  1. Is it likely I just have a busted SD card? I mean... it's Amazon Basics, it's not exactly high quality. When a card goes bad would I be likely to experience the types of things I'm describing?
  2. Is there another approach, a more robust approach I can take to try to get this card formatted? I've tried running Disks and GParted as sudo but that made no difference.

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u/mabee_steve — 6 months ago