Has anybody with a c5-c6 experienced low engine vacuum after installing an upgraded cam? My brakes have sucked since I put a cam in my c6 and I was told it’s most likely low vacuum. Which I had no idea about I figured my base model brakes just couldn’t keep up ( which is probably still true ). Is this somewhat common or is it probably something else wrong?
I’m removing the rear hatch to replace it right now but I don’t know what to do with the wire harness back here. Do I have to disconnect it from everything and pull it through or is there a main connected I can unplug behind a panel?
2011 Chevy corvette 3lt auto
I’ve recently been having a problem where when it rains my car will not turn on. It was pouring rain and I went to start it and it would start and immediately stall out. Eventually it threw a MAF sensor code. Come a week later when it was dry I immediately put a new MAF sensor in and it starts right up. Then yesterday I went to start it while raining, and it did the same thing. So now I know it’s not the MAF sensor this time yet I still got another one just to make sure. Then today it’s been hot and dry and I went to start it and it started right up no issues. Then literally 2 hours later it was raining and after it stopped I went out and it was stalling again. My floor boards are dry and the only water I noticed is water dripping from the windshield cowl to the battery area. Which I dried everything off and it still stalled. I’m pretty stumped here and have no idea what to do. Thought it might be my corsa intake getting wet so I bought a vararam intake but I’m missing the MAF and pvc pipe tubing so that will have to wait. Don’t know if it’s just the corvette gods trying to stop me from driving in the rain or what. If this has happened to anybody or anybody has ideas please let me know. Thanks
Does anybody with a narrow body c6 with 20 inch wheels in the back run a 305/35/20 tire? Everything says to run a 305/30/20 but I’d like a meatier sidewall and to match the front wheels 265/35/19. I’m on coilovers too so I was worried about rubbing but I can adjust.
So I made a post yesterday about my trans overheating and losing control of being able to shift gears and all that good stuff. Yesterday my speedometer and my heads up display stopped working when it overheated and apparently that sensor is near the trans. I also got a check engine light saying transmission control module. Today I started it up and that light was gone, I took it for a ride down the road and it goes through all 6 gears normally and didn’t act weird. The temps stayed pretty solid too. Highest it got to on my 10ish minutes of driving and several minutes of idling was right when I got home at 170°F. I’m a little confused of what to think I should do. I still think I should take the pan off and put new fluid in but that is quite the task for me right now. But then again if I was put in the same situation as yesterday( 90° weather and stop and go traffic ) idk if it would do it again. I wish there was an easier way to check fluid level to make sure I’m not running low but gotta love GM.
Was in stop and go traffic today In 90° weather when I got the warning my transmission was overheating. I stopped to let it cool for a bit but when I started going it went right back up and I lost control of being able to change gears. It also threw a transmission control module that didn’t go away when I cleared it. I’m getting worried because of the light and seeing posts saying 250°+ is cooked. Also a buddy with one said he’s never seen his above 210° and mine definitely got above 280°. Advice?
So the weird vacuum leak or whatever it was randomly went away yesterday. Then today when I left work, it started again but much worse. I stopped at the gas station to see if I saw anything but didn’t. Luckily I was about 5 minutes from my house when the car was driving terribly. It was bogging down and the throttle had very little response and was puttering and not wanting to accelerate. It also threw a code this time.
P0131 - 02 Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1
Sensor 1)
• P0151 - 02 Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2
Sensor 1)
I recently got this same code but only for bank 2. And I recently had that o2 sensor out so I figured it was just loose. So I went under and tightened it the best I could and it actually went away. But now it’s back and in both banks. And it was terrible to drive. I said in the last post that my car is driving on an unfinished tune but I don’t think that’s the problem as it went away yesterday. But I did install my wideband yesterday in my old after cat o2 that was plugged. I’m not sure if this could’ve made this happen or what. The wideband isn’t actually working yet cause I couldn’t get it to power, but it is in that o2 sensor bung. ( my remote tuner said I need a wideband hooked up and connected to hp tuners for the last 5% of the tune ) I’m kind of stumped right now dk if I should take the wideband out and get the tune finished at a shop or what. But I would like to not have to pay for a full tune but I’d also like to drive my car.
2011 Chevrolet corvette 6.2 ls3 auto. My cammed vette was running fine yesterday today when I drove it was idling weird and the throttle as weird under light application. Any ideas?
Really like the Mortimoto clear lights with the dark smoke center but don’t like the big price difference just for the tint. Wondeirng if I could just spray or wrap tint the middle and save some money? Thoughts ?