u/rovmun

I need to record incoming calls on a specific work iPhone 16 (workers phone) . I have all necessary rights/permissions and I’m based in the EU.

I can’t install any apps on the phone, and the iPhone itself doesn’t have call recording available. It also needs to work for incoming calls, so I need to have the recorder ready before answering.

I know about things like the JK Audio CellTap and Daptor Two, but I also noticed the Zoom PodTrak P2 is only around €100 and seems to support phone calls with mix-minus.

Has anyone actually used the P2 for this, or found a better solid solution?

I also was thinking to soler a TRRS spliter cable but im not shure if that will wok.

Right now I’ve basically been taping a lav mic to the phone speaker, which works, but it’s obviously not a great solution.

I do some remote photo and video post production and sometimes need to connect back to my NAS over SMB from my Mac.

So speed is probably the most important thing for me, but it also needs to be stable since I use it for work.

Mainly using macOS but would also be nice if it works good on iPhone/iPad when needed.

I have looked at wireguard and tailscale. wireguard sounds like it should be the fastest and simplest option, but when I looked at the wireguard app in the Mac App Store it seems like it has not been updated for around 3 years. Maybe that doesnt matter and it just works, but it doesnt look that great in my eyes for something I want to rely on.

So what are people actually using for this?

Would you still go with normal WireGuard, Tailscale, open vpn, L2tp or something else?

Most interested in real world speed and stability with SMB, especially when working remotely from hotels, other offices etc. I have the UDM pro SE ( lastes non beta update) and I have two NAS from SYnology.

edit : inhave a fixed IP

Kan någon rekommendera ett bra företag i Stockholm för byte av bergvärmepump?

Jag har kontaktat nästan alla på Nibes lista, men det varit rätt dålig respons. Förutom ett företag har jag knappt fått återkoppling alls vissa har varit här och tittat men sedan aldrig hört av sig igen, andra har sagt saker som inte stämt och då har jag helt enkelt dömt ut de.

Jag har försökt göra det enkelt för dem med all info de behöver (bilder, mått, borrhål, nuvarande pump osv), men det känns ändå som att många inte orkar följa upp.

Så nu letar jag efter seriösa installatörer även utanför Nibes lista. Har ni några bra erfarenheter av företag som är duktiga, tydliga och faktiskt återkopplar och installerar NIBE? Anledningen till NIbe är att de verkar vara de som erbjuder integrering i home assistant ( behöver ingen hjälp me det ) jag har än så länge gått på företag som är lite större och undvikit enskilda företagare men kanske gör bort mig.

Vad gör man?

I already own several Milwaukee M18 tools, including a leaf blower, circular saw, multi-tool, drill, impact wrench and jigsaw. I’m very happy with and want to keep them, but I don’t always want to spend Milwaukee money on tools that I’ll only use occasionally.

More importantly, I want a lighter and more homeownerfriendly system for small garden tools, especially a good lightweight string trimmer and a compact lawn mower.

I’ve narrowed it down to two options:

Ryobi ONE+

• RY18LTX33A brushless string trimmer
• RY18LMX33A / RLM18X33B40 compact 33 cm lawn mower
• One 4.0 Ah battery and charger

Makita LXT

• DUR192LZ brushless string trimmer
• DLM330Z compact 33 cm lawn mower
• Two 3.0 Ah batteries and charger

The total price is almost identical. Makita currently has a free-battery promotion, so the complete Makita package costs around €400, while the equivalent Ryobi package is very similar in price.

Since price is not really a deciding factor, which system would you choose?

Makita seems to offer better overall build quality, while Ryobi has a much wider range of affordable homeowner and garden tools. I already have M18 for heavier work, so this second platform would mainly be for lighter garden tools and occasional-use equipment.

Which one makes more sense as a complement to M18?

I’m trying to make my old 12V AC doorbell smart by using a Philips Hue Wall Switch Module.

My first attempt was a 12V AC relay. The relay works fine by itself, but when I connect it in parallel with the doorbell, it won’t pull in. Measuring across the relay coil shows only about 8V AC while the doorbell is connected.

Finding a 12V AC relay was already difficult and expensive, and I can’t find an 8V AC version. The Hue module only needs a momentary dry contact, so the current required on the output side is practically zero.

Should I forget the relay idea and build something else instead? Has anyone solved a similar problem? I don’t have to much space About the size of two matchbox Stacked on top .

I really like the idea behind the Power for All Alliance one battery that works across multiple brands. On paper, it sounds like exactly what the tool industry needs.

But after looking into it, I’m starting to wonder if it’s actually that great in practice.

According to the Power for All website, there are around 150 tools across the alliance. That sounds impressive until you realise many of the brands aren’t available where I live, and several of them I’ve never even seen in a local shop (Sweden). So while there may be a lot of tools on paper, the number you can actually buy is much smaller.

When I compare it to ecosystems like Ryobi ONE+ or Makita, they seem to offer far more tools and much better availability.

I know Power for All is a newer platform, so maybe it just needs more time to grow. But then Bosch also has another 18V ecosystem for professional tools (AMPShare). From a consumer’s point of view it just creates yet another battery ecosystem. Also why not make them compatible they have the same voltage. Makita and ryobi has both simple and highend tools with same platform.

Another thing I’ve been wondering about is why more manufacturers haven’t adopted Power for All. From what I’ve read, it’s a closed, licensed platform rather than an open standard. You can’t just build a compatible tool and sell it. Is that one of the reasons it hasn’t gained more traction?

I also noticed that many manufacturers now have separate 36- 80V battery platforms. Why don’t we see more companies simply using two 18V batteries for higher-powered tools in p4a? Some do, but not many.

The tool range also feels incomplete. Unless I’ve missed something, there’s no full-size chainsaw, no mitre saw, and several other larger tools you’d expect in a mature ecosystem even if it aimed to DIY.

I also wonder how many of the brands are connected through ownership. For example, Husqvarna, flymo and Gardena are both part of the same company, so that’s an obvious partnership. Are there similar relationships behind some of the other brands in the alliance?

I still think the concept is excellent, and I’d love to see it succeed. But right now it feels like a great idea that hasn’t really reached its potential.

So what do you think?

Is Power for All likely to grow into a serious competitor to Ryobi, Makita, etc.?

Or will it always remain a relatively small ecosystem?

What do you think is holding it back?

or is it doomed?

Which battery ecosystem would you recommend to complement M18, and why? I’m mainly interested in tools that Milwaukee doesn’t excel at, better value, or a wider range of homeowner/garden tools.

I ’m using an ESP32 with a TXS0108E 3.3V to 5V bidirectional logic level converter to control four 4-pin PWM PC fans and read their RPM signals.

Everything worked well during testing on my bench with short cables. However, after mounting everything together, one of the fans became unstable and the RPM reading started jumping around.

After troubleshooting, it seems that the cable length is the main problem. With short cables, everything works, but when the cable is around 1.5 metres long, the PWM control and RPM readings bec ome unstable or stop working properly.

Is there a way to make the TXS0108E work reliably with longer cables, or is it the wrong type of level shifter for this application?

I need the cables to be at least 1 metre long, and preferably closer to 1.5-2 metres?

I’m thinking about switching to the Ryobi ONE+ system for my garden tools and I’m trying to decide which string trimmer to buy.

I’m in Europe. I have a fairly small, A large part of it is a slope with uneven ground, so the trimmer will get used quite a lot. I also have some flat lawn, but it’s not a large area. I want to stay with the 18V ONE+ platform and don’t want to move to 36V since that would mean buying into another battery system. also most of the tools are to big and heavy for my small garden.

The three models I’m looking at are:

OLT1832A ( cheapest only one string

RY18LT33A same as above but with a gimock wheel?

RY18LTX33A (brushless) mor power full same price as the above

Has anyone used two or all three of these?

Is the brushless RY18LTX33A worth the extra for a typical homeowner, or is the OLT1832A enough?

I’m interested in hearing about real-world differences in Power, Battery life, Weight and balance, Vibration, Line feed, Overall build quality and durability

I don’t use my tools professionally, but I’d rather buy the right trimmer the first time than wish I’d spent a little more later.

I’d really appreciate any advice or long-term experiences with these models.

I’m replacing my old corded lawn mower and string trimmer with battery-powered tools, and it got me thinking: do I even need a lawn mower?

My yard has:

About 30 m² (320 sq ft) of flat lawn in the front.

About 15 m² (160 sq ft) of flat lawn in the back.

Around 40 m² (430 sq ft) of uneven, rocky, sloped ground that can only be maintained with a string trimmer anyway.

So in reality, there’s only about 45 m² (480 sq ft) that can actually be mowed.

I’m not super picky I don’t need perfect stripes or a golf course look. I just want it to look neat and be reasonably quick to maintain.

Has anyone with a similarly small yard completely replaced their lawn mower with a good battery-powered string trimmer? Did you regret it, or was it actually the better solution?

I’d love to hear your experiences.

Jag har anlitat hantverkare i Stockholm i över tretton år. Alla möjliga kategorier. Jag har dessutom haft kontakt med hantverkare genom andra projekt och hört samma sak från vänner. Jag kanske haft otur men alltid är det något.

Och jag har landat i en ganska enkel slutsats.

Jag hatar hantverkare.

Inte för att alla är dåliga. Det finns undantag. Det finns folk som är noggranna, yrkesstolta och faktiskt bryr sig om vad de lämnar efter sig. Men de är så få att man nästan blir förvånad när någon gör sitt jobb ordentligt från början till slut.

Problemet är inte att saker ibland blir fel. Fel kan hända. Alla kan missa något. Problemet är att så många hantverkare verkar tycka att slarv, chansningar och dålig kommunikation är en del av jobbet. Man beställer en viss produkt. Det kan vara ett kakel, en NCS färgkod, ett eluttag, en fläkt eller bara hur något ska monteras. Det står i mejl. Det står i sms, Finns ritningar. Man har pratat om det. Ändå gör någon något annat för man orkar inte dubbelkolla eller fråga.

Sedan börjar teatern. Det gick inte. Det fanns inte. Det blev bättre så här. Det var nästan samma. Någon annan sa något. Eller den mest provocerande varianten där hantverkaren försöker få det att låta som att kunden borde ha förstått att beställningen inte betydde det som faktiskt stod i beställningen.

Jag brukar vara väldigt tydlig med vad jag vill ha. Jag skickar bilder, mått, artikelnummer och instruktioner. Jag skriver hellre för mycket än för lite just för att undvika missförstånd. Ändå lyckas folk göra fel och sedan låtsas som att det är en tolkningsfråga.

Har kunden beställt en sak ska man inte ta en annan och hoppas att ingen märker det.

Många andra kanske inte bryr sig om köket får fel NCS färgkod, om kaklet inte riktigt blev det som var beställt eller om uttaget hamnar på fel ställe. Men jag bryr mig. Och framför allt bryr jag mig om principen. Jag har oftast nogra tänkt ut saker mät analyserat etc visst jag kan också ha fel och det är jag öppen för att någon har bättre lösningar och det har hänt. Man betalar inte hantverkare för att de ska improvisera bort beställningen.

Hade de ringt och sagt att produkten inte fungerar, att måttet inte stämmer eller att det finns ett bättre alternativ, då hade det varit en annan sak. Då hade man kunnat ta ett beslut. Då hade man kunnat diskutera.

Men att bara köra på utan att fråga är korkat.

Samma sak när något ser fel ut på plats. Någon har mätt fel. Någon har borrat fel. Någon har monterat fel. Då verkar många ändå fortsätta. Inte stanna upp. Inte ringa. Inte tänka. Bara vidare. Som om nästa moment på något magiskt sätt ska rädda det första misstaget.

Det gör det aldrig. Det blir bara ännu dyrare, ännu fulare och ännu mer irriterande.

Många gånger kommer det stressade underentreprenörer, praktikanter eller personer som uppenbart saknar allt intresse för hantverket. De ska in, göra klart, åka vidare. Kunden får upptäcka resten själv. Medans man skickar någon som är kunnit för att räkna på jobbet.

Det är där föraktet växer. För det handlar inte bara om ett enskilt fel. Det handlar om en kultur där det verkar vara normalt att inte läsa beställningar, inte dubbelkolla, inte fråga och inte ta ansvar förrän kunden står där förbannad med bevis i handen.

Det som stör mig mest är ändå tystnaden. Den totala bristen på kommunikation.

Nästan allt hade kunnat lösas tidigare. Ett samtal. En fråga. En bild. Ett meddelande. Fem minuter innan man spikar igen, borrar hål, sågar upp eller målar över något som inte borde målas över. Visst kan man inte kan kolla allt men när man blir osäker och om det är större saker.

Men nej. I stället chansar man.

Sedan blir det fel. Sedan blir det tjafs. Sedan ska det förklaras, försvaras, rivas upp och göras om. Det kostar tid, pengar och energi för alla inblandade.

Jag förstår faktiskt inte hur den här branschen fungerar. Att bara köra på, hoppas på det bästa och ta smällen efteråt måste vara vansinnigt dyrt. Men framför allt förstör det förtroendet totalt.

För en firma blir inte bara bortvald av en kund. Den blir ihågkommen. Den nämns för grannar, vänner, kollegor, bostadsrättsföreningar och villaägare i området. Någonstans undrar man hur mycket bråk, pengar och ilska som hade sparats om fler hantverkare bara gjorde det mest grundläggande.

Läste beställningen.

Stannade upp när något inte stämde.

Ringde kunden innan de chansade.

Tog ansvar för det de faktiskt får betalt för.

Det borde inte vara för mycket begärt.

Men i hantverkarvärlden verkar det ibland vara en nästan orimlig nivå av professionalism.

EDIT:
Det handlar alltså inte om att jag har jagat billigaste möjliga hantverkare och sedan blivit förvånad när det gått dåligt. Om något var felet i början snarare att jag inte kollade runt tillräckligt mycket, utan litade på att folk som sålde en tjänst också kunde utföra den. Efter några erfarenheter har jag valt dem som verkat mest seriösa och mest lämpade för jobbet. De som varit orimligt dyra eller tydligt ointresserade har jag valt bort.

EDIT2:
Jag har gjort mycket själv som målat, rivit, byggt luckor och snickerier. Men el, vatten, fasad, tak och bärande konstruktioner är inget jag chansar med.

Why do some developers make a whole custom firmware for the Flipper Zero instead of just releasing apps for common firmware like Momentum, Unleashed, or official firmware?

Are there things that can only be changed at the firmware level, not with an app? For example, deeper system changes, UI changes, hardware access, or changes to built-in tools?

the Example could be the car firmware etc

Something I’ve wondered for years.

I’m only talking about power connectors here, not video or data.

Over the years I’ve ended up dealing with LEMO, Fischer, XLR 4-pin, D-Tap, Hirose, various DC barrel connectors, USB-C, Micro USB, and even USB-A being used for power Out.

If you’re mostly working with ARRI or similar high end equment cameras, you can almost get away with only knowing LEMO and Fischer.

If you’re in lighting, D-Tap seems to be everywhere.

If you’re in audio, it’s often Hirose.

And now USBc is showing up in more and more gear as well.

As a solo operator who rigs cameras differently depending on the project, this gets frustrating. Every kit ends up full of adapter cables, custom power cables, splitters, converters and backup solutions just to power everything. And maybe you have some high end gear and some Lower end gear.

I understand that some connectors are better than others. A Fischer connector is obviously a much more robust and expensive solution than a cheap D-Tap connector. Different connectors have different locking mechanisms, current ratings, sizes, and costs.

But still, how did we end up with so many standards?

Were there actual technical reasons for all these different connector types, or is it mostly because the camera, lighting, and audio industries evolved separately and each settled on their own preferred connector?

I’m having a problem when creating subtitles. Sometimes, after a longer silence in the video, the subtitles appear a few seconds too early, before the words are actually spoken but stat untils its done.

Is there a way to fix without manually moving each subtitle line?

How can I reanalyze after changing a model, without closing and reopening the file and clicking Make Transcription again?

I watched apples WWDC today, and I couldn’t stop thinking about the audio.

Whenever people are outside walking around, it doesn’t sound natural at all. It almost sounds like every line has been heavily processed with maxed out AI, replaced, or rerecorded in a studio. The voices are so clean and isolated that it feels like the speaker is standing in front of a high-end studio microphone instead of outdoors. 2:50 around in the presentation you ca n hear what I mean. no environment sound no fottstep

What’s interesting is that in film and TV production we’re often taught that good audio is the most important thing because bad audio distracts the audience. But with Apple’s presentations, I sometimes feel they’ve gone so far in the opposite direction that the audio becomes distracting because it’s too perfect.

Am I the only one who notices this, or does anyone else feel the same way?

I’m goding to be on a remote podcast about once a month. I record my audio and video separately, and the studio is on the other side of the world.

The problem is that my shure sm7b doesn’t fit the look. The podcast has a vintage/tuxedo/old-world beer-and-whisky vibe, and my setup includes old oil paintings and a classic-looking background. The sm7b sticks out visually.

I’m looking for a microphone with a more 1940s–1950s aesthetic that still sounds decent for podcasting and doesn’t cost a fortune. My room isn’t acoustically perfect (it’s a photo studio with high ceilings, windows, and hard surfaces), so a dynamic mic would probably be safest.

I already own an SM7B. The RE20 looks better but lot perfect IMp but it’s still pretty expensive here in Europe.

Budget is around $200–300 max, preferably less. I think maybe some old used, retro.

Any suggestions?

I’m shooting with multiple Pocket cameras ( 6K and 6K Pro), and a few times I’ve thought a camera was recording when it actually wasn’t.

The thing that confuses me is that the record indicator stays red even when the camera is idle. The only clear indication that it’s not recording seems to be the timecode, which is easy to miss when you’re working quickly with multiple cameras + outdoor in sun.

Is there any way to change the record button/indicator color when the camera is not recording? White, gray, or something else would make much more sense to me.

Does anyone know if there’s a setting for this, or is it just how Blackmagic designed it?

It’s becoming pretty annoying and has already caused a few scares on shoots.

When I shoot 360 panoramas with my drone or with my camera using a 12mm lens, then stitch them together in Lightroom, I get a bent/fisheye-looking horizon and thats fine for many usage.

What I want is to take a 360 pano and crop out and straight-lines/normal-looking image.

I know this can be done in PTGui or Autopano (which i used before) , a but I only need this a few times per year. I don’t really want to pay around €200/year just for that.

Is there any way to do this directly in Photoshop or any other software?

In Lightroom, I can only choose the panorama projection when creating the pano, but Cylindrical and Perspective never seem to work well for a standard DJI drone pano.

Any tips for a Photoshop workflow, free/cheaper alternatives, or settings I might be missing?

I’ve never understood why some people planning weddings, birthdays, and other big parties become obsessed with details that barely matter once the party starts.

They spend months choosing flowers, tablecloths, chair covers, desserts, and decorations. Everything looks perfect for photos.

Then you arrive and realize the drinks are heavily limited, the bar prices are outrageous, or the alcohol runs out halfway through the night. The reality is that most guests won’t remember what color the napkins were. They’ll remember the atmosphere, the conversations, the music, and whether the party actually felt like a celebration.

I’ve been to beautiful weddings that died early because few wanted to pay ridiculous prices for drinks after the small free allocation was gone or they run out of alcohol early . I’ve also been to much simpler events where the drinks kept flowing, everyone relaxed, and people talked about how great the party was for years afterward.