u/sassane

I naturally use the pictured grip when finger boarding and for most of my climbing and it is also my strongest grip type.

Sometimes when climbing, certain moves such as those where the hold is close to my body, at a particular angle, or type of hold, my body can't seem to generate pulling power with the above grip and naturally slips into using a full crimp which I am very weak on. I can't seem to fingerboard with a full crimp as it feels very unnatural and weak alongside generating some slight sideways pressure on my joints as my grip rotates inwards. This causes me to fall off a lot of hard routes as the full crimp move will usually deplete my overall finger strength.

I would like to try to improve on this issue, either by changing my grip type in training or by body movement to allow me to use my natural grip.

Is this just a type of muscle imbalance and I need to work on full crimping when finger boarding, or is it possibly some biomechanic limitation where I'll never be able to use this more open grip in more compressed pull type moves.

Alexa handhold gets stuck on v25 slab