I ran a test load run this weekend. First time with 280AI, so I allowed myself to f*ck up a bit. New Hornady brass, 4831sc, 162 eld match (for now).
I crushed the first couple of shoulders due to tight necks. Eventually got all that sorted, and the new dies dialed in. I’ll see how it shoots next weekend with the new barrel.
A couple of years ago, I got back into reloading after a 30 plus year hiatus. In my teens, I was shooting and reloading a bull-barrel 22-250 along with my over/under 12ga for trap shooting, oddly enough, with little to no parental oversight, but it was different times back then.
Fast forward to my early 50’s, I’m getting some time back, so I stepped back in to the hunting/ shooting world with a 45-70 lever action. I love the history of the cartridge. It was also an easy one to get back into reloading with.
My son bought a 6.5 Creedmoor, so we added that to the lineup. Old memories of my 22-250 bottleneck days helped.
I was back and forth on the next cartridge for me. I wanted something to fill a hole in the lineup. Ideally something that could handle both deer and elk. I also wanted something with a little history behind it so I chose the 280 AI.
In a way, it shares a storyline with the 22-250, a wildcat that became a standard cartridge. So I guess I have come full circle.
If you’ve read this far, I would be happy to hear any tips/ tricks, particularly any differences you’ve seen between loading for the 280AI vs other cartridges.
I picked these up in my local shop as a one off purchase. They measure .459, 405 grains and shoot really well out of my Henry. I used it to take my first deer last year.
I’m starting to cast this summer in prep for this fall and would like to duplicate it. I would be open to a gas checked version, but it’s not a requirement. Does anyone recognize the mold
profile?
Redneck annealing my son’s 6.5 brass. I tested a setup using the drill, socket and torch method. It worked like a charm.
I thought I’d be safe and use what I thought was a fire/ hear resistant wrap for mechanical ducts. Apparently it wasn’t heat resistant. It melted to the brass. I ran it through the steel pins/ tumbler, but I’m pretty sure it’s f’d. Oh well, it’s only 25 brass.
This guy came by our place yesterday. Hopefully I’ll run into his dad this fall.
Hey, I’m coming over from r/reloading and r/castboolits.
I’m looking for a somewhat consistent source of cheap/ free lead for casting bullets. Casters used to be able to use wheel weights, but the alloy has shifted away from lead.
I sift the berms at my local range for range scrap, but thought I’d ask here for anything interesting you guys may have come across.
Thanks!
I usually just buy ammo to shoot to get my brass, but I broke down awhile back and bought new starline brass.
I actually resized it just in case and loaded up a few to test out at the range. I noticed there was a lot of carbon along the case. I’m assuming this is because starline is producing these smaller than the average chamber.
Well, they’re fire formed now. Another reason why once fired brass is coveted I guess.
On this second round of loading, I didn’t resize. I tested a half dozen and they all cycle and chamber nicely, which makes sense given my thought on the starline brass size.
Has anyone else experienced this on new brass?
My daughter’s game camera picked up a pretty good spring dance. We hear them around all the time, but never get to see this display.