u/snowytheNPC

Emilie Flöge in a reform dress, photographed by Madame d’Ora, 1909.

Source: Ateneum Art Museum

Details in the captions. If the reference image is not provided, the clothing and accessories in the photo are antiques and original artifacts.

Image Sources:

• 盥薇
• 陈小川摄影
• 勿忘_心安
• 金JINNIE妮
• 橙七七
• 鹑衣

via. Hermitage Museum

Photos taken from: https://www.lacma.org/art/exhibition/fashioning-chinese-women-empire-modernity

Jing Gang Yu Ta Yunnan Jasmine. Flower arrangement with aranthera orchid (cat-safe)

Severe corsetting falling at the natural waist, a flaring skirt, and the return of gigot sleeves constituted a fin-de-siècle extremism. The engorgement of sleeves and skirt made this extreme constriction seem even more exaggerated in the context of the bulbous shapes surrounding the ideal, hard, narrow waist. The style was maintained well into the twentieth century as a flattering stage effect by actresses such as Sarah Bernhardt.

Source: https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/85420

Source: https://maggiemayfashions.com/calicoball/fashionhistory/the-victorian-era-first-bustle-and-natural-form-period-1870-1883/

Court Presentation Dress with a distinctive asymmetrically puffed skirt. Bodice and sleeves are in pink silk tulle with sequin embroidery and rhinestone trimming, with a flower ornament at the right waist. The train of silk tulle embroidered with sequins and rhinestones layered over silver lamé taffeta is 263 cm long.

This court dress was worn by Willia Alice Wilson Page (1858-1942) when she was presented to King George V and Princess Mary at St James’s Palace on February 14, 1914 with her husband, Walter Hines Page (1855-1918), who was U.S. Ambassador to the United Kingdom from 1913 to 1918. In line with rules for court dress, she wore this dress with a feather plume in her hair.

Source: Kyoto Costume Institute

This is the male counterpart to my earlier post: https://www.reddit.com/r/CDrama/comments/1v7mwwm/chinese_historical_fashion_at_the_start_and_end/

>I focused on the major periods and some eras are not depicted. The goal was to show how fashion changed dramatically over the course of each dynasty. Chinese history, including Hanfu/ fashion history, typically uses the dynastic model, which habitually overlooks periods of transition. Archetypal (most recognizable) styles tend to reflect what was popular at the midpoint of each dynasty, rather than at the start and end. Do you feel like you’d be able to recognize the time period now? Let me know if you if want to know more about a particular style

The male version is a bit harder to represent because men’s formal wear tends to correspond to a particular rank and profession. For women, ritual wear was codified quite a bit later and there were two levels: ceremonial and formal. Ceremonial likewise had a particular occasion and rank, but formalwear was less rigid. If women accessorize, it indicates wealth and implies rank. But for men, headgear (a form of mandatory dressing) immediately identifies the individual like a receipt. So focus on the form and bear in mind that the specifics of color, headwear, and accessories won’t be universal.

I tried to select the popular fashions for casual clothing of the upper class, otherwise I’d just be showing work uniforms, which were strictly regulated. That said, if people want to learn about court dressing, I can dedicate a separate post for them.

This is the male counterpart to my earlier post: https://www.reddit.com/r/Hanfu/comments/1v7mov8/fashion_at_the_start_and_end_of_each_dynasty/

>I focused on the major periods and some eras are not depicted. The goal was to show how fashion changed dramatically over the course of each dynasty. Chinese history, including fashion history, typically uses the dynastic model, which habitually overlooks periods of transition. Archetypal (most recognizable) styles tend to reflect what was popular at the midpoint of each dynasty, rather than at the start and end. 

The male version is a bit harder to represent because men’s formal wear tends to correspond to a particular rank and profession. For women, ritual wear was codified quite a bit later and there were two levels: ceremonial and formal. Ceremonial likewise had a particular occasion and rank, but formalwear was less rigid. If women accessorize, it indicates wealth and implies rank. But for men, headgear (a form of mandatory dressing) immediately identifies the individual like a receipt. So focus on the form and bear in mind that the specifics of color, headwear, and accessories won’t be universal.

I tried to select the popular fashions for casual clothing of the upper class, otherwise I’d just be showing work uniforms, which were strictly regulated. That said, if people want to learn about court dressing, I can dedicate a separate post for them.