▲ 2 r/R53
Follow up to the injector swap..
Did some pulls and got som data, i posted it in the original thread. But since i suspect no one reads that, i decided to put it in the feed as well.
Forgive me for spamming :).
u/wackawonka — 4 days ago
u/wackawonka
▲ 2 r/ECU_Tuning
R53 Cooper S tuning
Hello!
I have an r53 Cooper S, 1,6l supercharged petrol engine with 330cc port injection, knock sensor and two o2 sensors, pre and post cat.
A common way to get more performance is to reduce the size of the supercharger pulley. Anywhere up to about 17% reduction is widley regarded as ”safe” within the mini community. The rationale for this seems to be that the ECU will compensate for the larger air volume at moderate throttle by adjusting pulse width with data from the o2 sensors, and pull timing if needed with data from the knock sensor. However, at WOT the ECU operates from a fixed map and will use prederermined values, which the overall consensus seem to be that theese are rich form start, and the larger air volume will not cause a Lean condition.
Now, by the same rationale one could think that adding, lets say 15% more air with a smaller pulley could be compensated by sizing up injectors accordingly, lets say swap the 330’s for 360’s. The ECU will still moderate fueling based off the o2 sensors. When driven hard the car would, or course, use the fixed map, in which it assumes a standard pulley and standard injectors. In theory, this would moderate the risk for running lean with the fixed map, right?
I understand that getting a tune to properly account for modifications is the proper way to go about things. But would the above make sense, that is scale both air and fuel. Do scaling one or the other introduce risk? Are engines better suited to handle lean than rich conditions?
Thank you for your input!
//N
u/wackawonka — 4 days ago
▲ 11 r/R53
Injector swap success
G’day fellas!
Wonderful day to work in the car. Swapped out the old 330’s for some 367cc bosch ones. Slightly higher flow and a four hole spray nozzle instead of two. Ev1 connectors so no pigtails needed.
Car started up and ran rough for 20sec untill the ECU adapted, after that; silky smooth.
ECU works as expected, pulling fuel at moderate load to conpensate for the larger injectors.
A sucessful mod on a nice day! Hope your day is as good as mine 🤗.
Cheers
//N
u/wackawonka — 5 days ago
Surely it won't be expensive to remove just this one branch?
Not my tree, actually. Seen in Snoqualmie, Washington, USA.
Edit: This is not my tree, I just saw it and took a picture. No one is planning on cutting off this branch.
It was a joke for arborists, about quoting jobs and customer expectations.
Also: this is not AI.
u/IKnewThisYearsAgo — 8 days ago
▲ 6 r/R53
Piston kissing the head?
Hello dudes…
Pulled out the boroscope and looked down the spark plug holes… three cylinders looked identical, but cylinder no 3 had a slightly different look.
Could this be cyl 3 ever so slightly nudging the head? First image is one of the other cylinders…
Thanks!
u/wackawonka — 12 days ago
▲ 0 r/MechanicAdvice
Normal or sus?
What story, if any, do theese cylinders tell you?
Additional information: found 4-5 small fragments of metal in the oil, decided to check out the Pistons with my boroscope. Also might have heard faint sounds of knocking on my way home from work the other day. The car is a 05 mini Cooper S with the supercharged, camchain driven, tritec engine, so there is plenty of other noises present…
u/wackawonka — 12 days ago
How cooked…
The car in question is a 2005 Mini Cooper S, 1,6k supercharged petroleum engine, 136000kms, 6-spd manual.
So, i pulled the oil filter today and found some stuff… not much, like 5-6 1-2mm pieces of metal, non magnetic.The oil does not look bad per se, no heaps of metal in it, or grey sludge… just a faint trace when stirred. See attached image for example of a metal piece and stirred oil.
Engine runs fine. Naturally its an old engine with a bit more mechanical sounds than a modern car. No heat issues, no knocking or wierd behaviour or sounds. Good oil pressure.
Can this be leftover residue from a failed, and replaced, camchain tensioner? Early bearing fuzz?
What would you do in my situation?
u/wackawonka — 12 days ago
▲ 5 r/R53
Follow up to previous noise post…
So, i pulled the filter, and found some stuff. Not very much, but some stuff nevertheless… there was three small pieces of metal, maybe 1/2mm squared, and of course some finer, dustlike material. Maybe some paper stuff off the filter, but definatly some which appeared metal based as well. The oil looked pristine at last oil change in december, as did the filter.
How the hell do i proceed? The engine runs fine, no foul sounds or heavy knocking suggesting horrific damage, i guess the filter did its job.
It feels like a Rod bearing job is on the menu? Am i overthinking this? What do you guys filters look like?
Thanks in advance for all input!
//N
u/wackawonka — 13 days ago
▲ 6 r/R53
Guess that sound!
So, the car has been great for a couple of weeks straight. However, on my way home from work i heard a faint knocking noise, mostly audiable around 2,7k rpm.
I will try to rule out any bottom end/rod stuff by running it with the belt off later tonight.
What do you guys make of it? Its mostly hearable when i shut the car off near the end of the video.
Thanks in advance!
//N
u/wackawonka — 15 days ago
▲ 2 r/R53
Hello fellas’
Changed the old crusty and moist high pressure lines, both the one from the tank to the rack, and the one from the pump to the rack. I have a hard time getting them to Seal properly.
I’m using copper washers on either side of the fitting, and applying 35nm and 40nm torque to the pump line and resorvoir line respectivly.
When i run the engine and use the steering for a bit, i can feel some oily moisture forming on the fittings. Topside resorvoir hoses are bone dry.
Is there any magic trick to get them to seal? Do they ”seat” with some use and heat? More torque to crush the washers? What am i missing…
Thanks!
//N
u/wackawonka — 20 days ago
As the title says. I have a little mini R53 (1300kg) as a hobby car. I enjoy driving it as Well as maintaining it.
I do all the work myself in our driveway, which unfortunatly slopes slightly. So far I’ve only been doing jobs which require jacking the car up, but not getting under it in any significant way. Now i have exhaust work coming up, and the fact that the driveway isnt fully level causes some concern. The car is fairly light, and the chassis is fairly stiff… each jack takes 2 tonnes each, but has a fairly nimble base, about 25x20cm.
How would you approach the situation? How can i improve safety beyond chugging a tire or two under the car?
The level tool is about 120cm/4ft long.
Any advice apriciated!
u/wackawonka — 27 days ago