Hey yall, had to share. I purchased this 1991 GT 5.0 from the second owner. Car fax, auto check, and DMV records show accuracy on milage 77k. All vins match and everything in the car works! I mean everything. It has a V1 supercharger since 1994. Boost I imagine is 5lbs.
I live how clean it is and its original state never been re-painted. Here’s a few pics.
I’ve posted this car before when I first got it sometime in 2025, and since then there hasn’t really been anything good to post about it. It had constant issues from sitting for probably about 8 years. I’ve checked off almost every terrible job from removing the dashboard for a heater core to completely replacing the fuel tank and components and lots of other stuff. But now it’s finally running about 85%-90%. I’m finally throwing in the towel and bringing it to reputable shop that can get the last few kinks worked out, vacuum leaks, rough idle, etc. But it feels good know this now runs and drives and doesn’t have a colony of mice living in it anymore. Once it’s a complete I’ll post more pics inside and out as it really is in nice shape for a car that got neglected for quite a while. Just wanted to make a post so I can keep my motivation to finish this thing and finally start enjoying it lol
I was driving my car and the next morning I went to Beckett out of the driveway and noticed that the tire was rubbing on the front bumper. I look at my castor camber plates and it seems like the caster plate had slid all the way forward.
Just wanting to know if there is anything other than that that I would need to look at and if pushing it back to match the passenger side wood correct this issue. I have included a photo of both the passenger and driver side.
Recently bought foxbody with a power steering delete. Plan to reinstall it back but I’ve been hearing that I should install a SN95. I also have listed parts I will need to get the power steering back. Let me know if I’m missing something from my list
As the title states. I bought this car when I was 18 and over the years in my mid 30s I had to let the car go. I gave it to my friend in south Jersey and he sold it for a few bucks to someone. I don’t know if the car still exists as it was pretty rough after a while. I figured since the most distinctive part was the cage I made with the spider web that maybe someone may recognize it. I am not looking to buy it but just curious to see if anyone got it roadworthy again. Thanks!!
Going to buy some interior paint from lmr to repaint some interior pieces. I have a different center console arm rest I'm thinking about using but its a different color and am debating painting it.
Top one is the one I'm thinking of painting and bottom is the one I have now. If I paint the top one titanium think it would turn out OK?
Changed spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor, computer, injectors, fuel pump, fuel pump relay, alternator. Battery was installed in reverse so some of this needed to be replaced but car still wont start. Started up on starting fluid and with starting fluid the inital start gets you all 8 cylinders to fire and then she slowly dies. I feathered the gas and only the passenger side is firing and not all cylinders in that bank. (the only spark plug i replaced prior to replacing ALL the spark plugs was for cylinder 3 which was the only cylinder firing and led me to believe all the spark plugs needed to be changed) but i get 40psi through the fuel rail and everything else is new or cleaned. I dont know what to do now, my friend is a self proclaimed mustang expert and hes got no idea. It was a track car before i got it but its still mostly stock if that helps.
I'm trying to accomplish a specific goal with my 1985 GT Convertible. When I was a kid, my older cousin had an 86 5.0 hatchback that I just thought was the coolest car in the world. It definitely shaped my perception of cars in general and made me fall in love with muscle cars. What I remember the most about it was how violent and snappy it felt. The car was a 306 with GT40 top end, 3.55 gears, and was generally pretty mild by the standards of some of the cars that we see today. I think it may have been a high 12, low 13 sec car on slicks. It's the way the power was delivered that I found addictive. It accelerated with drama.
Since then I've had a pretty heavily modified 2000 GT, with a vortech blower, cams, built motor, 3.73s, etc. It was way faster on paper and on the track than my cousin's car but it didn't have the same "feel." At its peak it dynoed 450rwhp. But that car was a bit too much for the street. Even with 315 drag radials, traction was non existent in 1st and 2nd gear and the complexity of the blower meant that there was always a gremlin or funny smell that freaked me out.
For my 85, my goal is a weekend cruiser that I can take my family for ice cream with the top down, but I also want to be able to scare them a little. The car will never see a track, I don't care about peak numbers or gas mileage. I want it to be reliable with a fat powerband and a similar feel to my cousin's 86.
This car is an AOD with CFI. I picked it up because it had no rust and only 35k miles on the odo (no one who has seen the car suspects the odo rolled over). So my first step is to swap to manual and the car is getting a performer rpm intake and conversion to holley 4barrel carb in the next week or 2 (will also include HEI and fuel system mods). Then the manual swap and I already purchased an 8.8 rear that I'm going to rebuild with 3.73s and a fresh set of clutches/bearings etc. Beyond that, a set of aluminum heads (I'm thinking the SVE 170s), a roller cam, and exhaust work should wrap it up. Is this a good plan for my intended goal? I'm not interested in any power adders. What would you do different?
Thanks, just sitting here planning out the build and hoping to achieve the outcome I'm after.
Having brake fluid leak from the rear passenger tire. Went around the block and heard a rhythmic sound with the rotation of the tire. Pulled back around, tire weights fell off and the paint/material rubbed to metal. Assuming these two issues are related, as they started at the same time. Any idea if it is a smaller fix or would just be better off to swap with a kit
I’ve been thinking about pulling the trigger on the conversion kit. May just do that to have peace of mind for new parts. Anyone ever use the kit, how is it, how long did it take you
I swear, every dang day come across posts and ads where clapped out Foxbody cars have “35k original miles”.
Anyone else find this?
Thinking of selling this car how much is a good asking price runs and drives painted a year ago original exhaust 5.0 5 spd car clean title now is on welds
I didnt expect to see this.
Hey guys. I recently picked up a 93 mustang lx for a steal of a deal. It was sitting in my neighbors backyard for years until he finally caved and sold it to me.
I’ve never owned a mustang and am not very mechanically inclined.
The issue it is having is that it won’t go into gear. I was able to get it into first after trying for a good 20 minutes and then was able to go on a long drive and get it thru all the gears. I just made sure to rev match to downshift otherwise it won’t go into gear again.
The previous owner says it was originally a 4 banger auto and he had the 5.0 and manual swap with a rebuilt trans done years ago and drove it 5000km before it stopped going into gear.
From my research it might be the clutch cable or the slave cylinder pin popped out? It won’t grind in any gear except reverse but takes some serious effort to get it into first at stand still.
Where should I start to pin point the issue? Or is there any tutorials for this as I have no idea how to adjust the clutch cable or to diagnose the slave. It could possibly be low on trans fluid as well but there’s no dipstick.
The car is leaking power steering fluid bad and I can see that the oil pan is dented as well so I’m hoping there wasn’t some damage done underneath possibly to the cable or trans. The trans is caked with fluid underneath as well but it looks like PS fluid. The engine oil is not leaking as the dipstick is always at full but the drain plug is jb welded so somethings going on down there lol.
I am currently working to finish up my 81 302 build. I got headman headers, they look generic and don’t exit appropriately at all. I was able to get a pace setter non catted h-pipe. Two issues I want to address.
1: headman headers face the totally wrong way to connect to an h-pipe. Passenger points out even. I am a competent fabricator and can make the needed piping and weld it up to get to the h-pipe. I was hoping for a bolt in install. Would bbk long tubes and h-pipe address this and be a “true bolt in” I know catted is my only option for the h-pipe.
2: the pacesetter h-pipe seems long. It sits nicely on the trans crossmember hanger mounts. The SLP Loudmouth catback is not fitting exactly right. The rear hangers on the tailpipes are horizontal rather than hanging. Seems it’s all pushed back.
My capacity in life right now is more the, buy it over modify it. Would BBK long tubes and h-pipe address this? Thanks
SVE just dropped 2 new wheels for 94-04 Mustangs, so those with SN95 5 lug swaps now have more options!
89 vert 84ish front end. I didn’t build this car,I bought it. My dad and mom each had one when I was a kid, my father and I completely restored an 84 1/2 gt350. I learned how to use tools and eventually got to weld in the new floor pans. That took 15 years. He sold it when it came back from paint. Now I have my own!
This was built very stupid,but it works