r/Generator

Hi,

I'm looking to install a transfer switch so I can run some specific circuits using an Ecoflow Delta Pro 3 with a 30A inlet. Battery is charged from solar panels, this is not a grid-tied system. I already have an interlock with a 50A breaker to use with a gas generator with an inlet outside. The idea is that this transfer switch would be pretty much "permanently" getting its power from the DP3 so they're using energy generated from solar panels. I have an EATON panel that takes CH breakers.

I got a Reliance 510C transfer switch and an electrician is coming to install it on Saturday, he says that having both main grid power and the circuits on the transfer switch with the DP3 at the same time should not be an issue since both sources would be effectively isolated. When I asked him about AFCI/GFCI protected breakers he stated that my circuits will still be protected with the AFCI breakers from the main panel so it's not necessary to get AFCI breakers for the transfer switch. The 510C installation manual has a section for wiring of extra neutrals and replacing breakers on the transfer switch with AFCI breakers.

If the circuits would indeed still be protected, how would that work? I see the wiring diagrams but to me, the transfer switch would bypass the breakers on main panel. I just cannot grasp how the protection from the breakers in the main panel would be possible without those breakers being powered from main at the same time.

Your insights are appreciated, thank you!

3 days without power in a heatwave - I’m finally pulling the trigger and getting a generator. I’ve had it.

Price is paramount - I’m not interested in one of those expensive “standby” generators. Portable is absolutely fine.

I’m hoping to get a portable generator that can tap into my giant buried propane tank used to heat the house.

Thing is- I don’t know how to calculate the size generator I need. It’s a 2400 sq ft house. I’d want to power the whole house including heat / ac, and water (i have a well / pump).

How do I calculate what I need?

Edit: wow, this is an awesome community. Thank you to everyone that’s replied so far. I’m working a double today - tomorrow night I’m going to reply to some comments with specifics as to what’s in my house that needs powering

Just venting because it’s hot and I’ve spent way too much time down this rabbit hole.

My Predator 6500 runs a hair dryer and a mini fridge just fine, but my 10k BTU TCL window unit runs for about 2 minutes and then pops the generator’s GFCI (not the breaker). The generator keeps running.

I’ve gone from thinking it was the extension cord, to wondering if I fried the A/C, to learning about LCDI plugs, GFCIs, neutral bonding, and now I’m picking up an L14-30 to 5-20 adapter with a 20A breaker to see if the 30A outlet behaves differently.

I had no idea running a window A/C on a generator had become this complicated. Is this actually a common problem with newer window units, or did I just hit the unlucky generator/A/C combination?

UPDATE: Getting the L14-30 adapter solved the problem, AC has been running for 45 minutes now. Hopefully this helps the next poor bastard who thought they were prepared like me

I need some troubleshooting help with a lightly used Westinghouse WGen15000 that has been sitting in storage for 2 years.

When I push the start button, absolutely nothing happens—no crank, no relay click, no lights on the button, the orange battery light is on as it should be when I have the run switch set to on, and no error messages. I used to remember that when it would go through a startup, you'd hit the button, there was a delay while the button light flashed, then it would crank a couple of times. But the button does not flash at all.

Setup Details:

• Fuel: Converted to Natural Gas (tank is completely empty, which has never been an issue before).
• Load: Completely disconnected.
• Starting mechanism: Electric start only (no recoil/pull cord option on this model).
• Stored: in my garage

What I’ve Tested So Far:

• Battery: The onboard battery was replaced last year and is good. I also tried jumping it directly with a car battery and jumper cables—still zero response.
• Starter Fuse: Checked the 20A inline starter fuse; it is intact.
• Oil Sensor: Disconnected the low-oil shutdown sensor just in case (oil level is verified full).

Because there isn't even a relay click, I am suspecting a failed start switch/button, or a safety interlock I'm missing?

Before I haul this massive unit to a shop, what should my next diagnostic steps be?

Thanks in advance!

I'm a noob when it comes to generators. My house has a three prong NEMA-L5-20-R, 20 A, 120 V power inlet connector with the prongs in a circle pattern. If I'm understanding correctly, this is extremely small and most generators have a 30 A power outlet that you can plug into your house. So I need a generator that has a 120 V 20 A power outlet which most don't have?

Assuming I find a generator, I assume if I try and run more than 20 A what will happen? I fear that my fridge and AC would likely already be pushing it.

A bit confused with most generators having a 120 V 30 A power outlet but my house has a 120 V 20 A power inlet, what am I supposed to do? Sorry if this is a stupid question.

Thank you!

I've had my Generac 26kw whole house generator for 2 years. The longest it's ever been used was maybe 2 hours. We had a zombie storm hit yesterday that resulted in massive power outages. How often do I need to check the oil levels? I'm hesitant to turn the thing off to check it because I got a good thing going and worry something will go wrong.

I’ve probably overthought this, but I’m down to these two generators and would appreciate some input from people who have actually done this.

I’m having a 50A inlet and interlock installed and will be connecting a tri-fuel inverter generator. The plan is to run primarily on natural gas, with propane available if needed.

My house has a 3.5-ton Carrier (42,000 BTU). I just had a Micro-Air EasyStart Flex 398 installed.

The HVAC tech measured:
Before EasyStart: 17.1A
Startup after EasyStart: 11.8A
Running: 10.8A

First question: Do those numbers look right? I’ve read enough to know measuring startup amps isn’t always straightforward. Does it sound like the EasyStart is doing what it’s should?

My goal isn’t to run my entire house.

Summer outage:
Central A/C
Refrigerator
Router/Internet
TV
Lights
A ceiling fan

I’ll manage loads if I need to. I’m not trying to run the microwave and coffee maker while the A/C is on.

Winter outage:
Gas furnace
Refrigerator
Router
TV
Lights

I also have a Rinnai RL94 tankless water heater, a gas cooktop, and a 275 CFH gas meter. I have a plumber coming out to install a quick connect off the gas main next week and look at everything, but I’ve noticed several posts from people saying they’re running an iGen12000TFc on a 275 CFH meter without issues.

I’m trying to decide between:
Westinghouse iGen8200TFc, 5,280W running on natural gas and about 135 lbs or a
Westinghouse iGen12000TFc 7,200W running on natural gas and about 190 lbs. I would be rolling them out of my garage and across 50’ of grass to the NG connection. On propane or gas they would sit on the back porch.

The 8200 seems like it would be easier to move during an outage, but the 12000 gives me a lot more headroom on natural gas.

I asked about generator weight a few days ago and got a lot of helpful feedback. Since then I’ve had the EasyStart installed, so now I’m trying to figure out if the 8200 is enough or if I should go with the 12000.

For those of you with a similar-sized A/C and an EasyStart, would the 8200 reliably start and run it, or would you spend the extra money and live with the extra weight of the 12000?

Thanks in advance.

It ran for 2 hours in the rain and shut off. Brought it in to our sun room to troubleshoot and still won’t start.

Has gas, gas valve is open, and has oil. The spark plug wire/plug is dry. So is the air filter. Any other suggestions are appreciated. Thank you.

I have a 26kw Generac currently supporting my house that has. 150 service line. I’m in process of adding a detached garage with a separate 200 amp service. Is there a way that one generator can monitor both service line in case of power outage ?

I purchased and have been running a Firman generator on natural gas. I finally got to start and it’s working fine. My problem is that the on off switch doesn’t seem to stop the motor from running. I flip the switch to off but everything continues to run for an extended period of time. I can shut it off by removing the natural gas from the system by way of the shut off valve. The Power light stays on for a bit. I really wish it would just power off when I hit the off switch any suggestions?

I'm wanting to convert my gas only Generac GP 5500 (389CC Generac motor) into an LP capable generator. So far, the only acceptable option I'm seeing is the "Nashfuel" conversion kit with the Venturi sandwich style adapter, which is $200 before my labor. This seems like a big investment (almost 40% of generator cost). Is there an acceptable, cost-effective option available that I'm not seeing?