I'm installing an ATI Super Damper (ATI 918476) on my b18c short block. My car has power steering but no a/c. What are the correct belt lengths for the alternator and power steering belts? Thanks.
Does the same year civic or accord have brake calipers that would fit my 96 LS? I’m a broke college student who realized the boot on my caliper had a tear in it and rust colored water came out when I changed the brakes so now I gotta replace them.
So I wanted to keep this one to myself till they were done but wanted to show progression for my fans, friends and followers. The Billet DC2/ EG front knuckles are in Machining. Almost done for the first official fit test and function performance.
DC2 Billet front knuckles in Manufacturing!
These knuckles feature 1.5" LCA roll center correction and upper ball joint 1.5" Drop for geometry correction. Made from 6061-T6 Billet Aluminum these Knuckles allow a stronger design, with more capability and corrected geometry for racing with better surface area for bonded strain gauge placement. 40% the weight of OEM they are 10 times stronger than the OEM design with all the attributes of Aerospace build into the design.
Way overpriced in my opinion.
https://www.drivermotorsports.com/inventory/1122/1998-acura-integra-gsr
1st time put this year: my 96 JDM-inspired boosted GS-R
I am 99.999% certain the answers will be to upgrade to S300. But for the purpose of just getting my DC2 to a semi driveable state, just putting the question out there as to whether there is anyway of getting hold of the S200 software in 2026?
The email and computer I had the files in are long gone unfortunately and any questions to Hondata or reps go straight selling the S300, so just wondering if anyone out has an alternative response?
Any help is so greatly appreciated.
Top right corner of the first picture is the Driver’s side door jam for context on the location.
Looks like i made the worst decision in my life ever. I imported a JDM Integra Type R DC5 my dream car of my life. Everything looked find and i waited patiently..... It arrived and it was a big disapointment. We found a lot of rust. The rust was hidden away mostly by paint. 2 different mechanics inspected the car both of them said the entire frame needs to be replaced. An impossible task to find a frame in europe. It could also maybe be repaiered, they already did the calculation and it was close to the same price i paid for everything already.
Also the mechanics are completly confused, because technical the car is completly fine. A lot things are new and got recently changed and everything technical is very well cared for. The interior is in perfect condition without almost any scratched. All the painted panels like the bumpers are in perfect condition with no rust without any scratches. The paint looks new. Almost no paint chips. at the front. The car looks like new very well cared car if you look at it. Engine gearbox are perfect with a long list of parts just recently changed
He never have seen a car that was in such a good condition in and outside with perfect technical maintanance. Just to have a compelty rusted away frame. He literally doesn't know how that happend. His opinion is that the car was part way under water for a time.
The car was bought from a dealership with grade 4.5 and marked rust free.
With 91.000km
I paid 20.000€ for the car with customs and shipping. The estimated repair cost to fix the frame are close to the price i already paid. The car is a financial desaster.
I dont know really know what i should do. This car financially ruined me.
Some friends told me to put engine and everything in an Civic EJ9, it would be cool but i wanted an Integra not an Civic...
But probably i will completly gut out the car and sell all parts on ebay to get the lost money back somehow.
Somebody has any ideas what to do with the car? Currently its just scrap iron....
I will also try to do legal action against the dealership to get some money back, because they clearly lied but my hopes are low.
Who is interested seeing the rust picture i can send it via dm.
Hello everyone, im restoring a 1996 RHD DC2 SiR and i am in need of a left side quarter glass since i already bought a right side glass from MITA Motorsport. If you've got one for sale in good condition (rubber in good condition) and willing to ship at my expense, please leave a comment or message me!
Not sure if anyone is interested in these. ASA printed clock gauge pods. Withstand heat up to 200 F and doesn’t fade in UV. Can also give the face a fuzzy look. Fits two gauges and can run wires through the back. Attaches using OEM hardware. Only $25 shipped to anywhere in continental U.S.
So my DC2 Teggy has had this issue since I bought it about 3 months ago. Once I hit around 70mph, the steering wheel begins to shimmy quite a bit making the car feel unsafe to drive over ~85mph. I’ve had all new wheels and tires (balanced properly) put on the car since then and this did not resolve my issue. So I peaked under the car using a lift and found a majority of my suspension bushings shot (not surprising the car is 30 years old) so now I’m looking to replace my bushings with polyurethane or rubber ones along with steering inner and out tie rods. I use the car as a weekend toy for spirited drives around the TX hill country. Has anyone gone with poly bushings and regretted it? How rough does the ride get? And should I put myself through the hell of replacing the bushings individually or just buy upper/lower control arms with the bushings pre installed?
94 Integra B18B1, 2 step typa misfire when im under 3k rpm and do half-WOT. Above 3k, its perfectly normal no matter what I do. CEL shows code 9. Distributor is a A premium, I know theres fuel cause when it stops misfiring theres a loud pop from my exhaust.
The car when i bought it was having a startup idle of 3k then as it warmed up, it would lower to about 1k to 1.5k. After replacing the iacv, it is now shooting up to 4k and even 5k rpm. The engine is a b20b
I printed the second version, and found a slight interference with the start button, so I clearanced the 3D print slightly. Also made the hex holes for the nuts to hold the top M8 bolts a hair too small, and I got a crack when pressing the nut into place. No matter, I glued it, and installed it on the car anyway. Made a couple tweaks to the 3D file, shown here.
Haven't tried printing this 3rd version just yet, might do it later. Printing takes about 10 hours on the printer we have at my office. But for now, the 2nd version is installed on the car and works brilliantly. The steering column trim is fully secure, just as it was when the original key cylinder was installed. Hopefully heat won't be an issue. I've had PETG parts deform in the car in direct sunlight (phone holder bracket), but this won't be in direct sunlight. So we'll see.
Hey guys, I’ve heard mixed opinions on setting timing for the dizzy. Do I need to get a timing light/set engine to TDC? Or can I just mark the cap and rotor and install in the same position?
I am trying to find a replacement part for my 99 acura integra and i just pulled up a picture but its those lines that im trying to find because mines have a leak in them and i cannot find anything showing up at autozone, O’reily, and junk yards dont have the integra in stock. I went into the acura warehouse and i believe i got the part numbers but again, all that pops up are the lines for the compressor, Does anybody know what these lines are called? Or what would be a way of for searching for them?
