




CE28N Legit Check
Hey all!
Can I get a legit check on these CE28 I’m looking to buy?
They’ve been refurbed. Last 2 pics are before the refurb





Hey all!
Can I get a legit check on these CE28 I’m looking to buy?
They’ve been refurbed. Last 2 pics are before the refurb
Bronze enkei rpf1s or rota g force. Feel free to recommend anything.
Mechanic video of the problem
I recently purchased the car with 27k miles and within 2 months of owning one I had the heat alert alarm go off. I pulled over and found my coolant tank was bone dry. The car is still under warranty so the dealer is not charging me to fix the head gasket but I was wondering if there is significant risk of permanent cylinder damage that will crop up later when the car is no longer covered by warranty?
My preliminary research on reddit shows me that this seems to be an (unfortunately) somewhat common issue. Any advice from those who have experienced a similar problem and managed to avoid permanently costly damage?
I drive only highway, use 93octane fuel, and the car has regular service records prior to my purchase.
Thanks for any advice I can get, I am kind of in shock that this type of failure could happen so early in the car's lifespan =(
First things first. I have permanent traumatic brain injuries. I can’t remember anything like I used to. And it is slow taking in and processing and understanding information. So take that into affect before you call me stupid or make fun of me or the question or the post.
Skip to the paragraph if you don’t care to read this unnecessary information I will mark with an emoji.
Also I’m obsessed with oem fog lights on any vehicle. I have them on my 2000 civic ex. Aftermarket bumper. Cut the holes. Ordered Yellow glass fog lights and oem brackets and 3,000k hids in them. It wasn’t the heat that got them. But rock chips.
I graduated in marketing as part of my bachelor degree as well as advanced vehicle systems. Meaning marketing is not advertising commercials or pictures etc. marketing is finding true 100% facts. We find numbers as information and we make a story for those numbers to be read with letters. Marketing includes supply chain and advertising and finances.
If this were a racing car finance would be the dashboard with all the gauges in the world monitoring numbers of money.
Advertising is the color of the vehicle and stickers from sponsors and the look of the car.
Supply chain is having all the parts we need to race. When exactly expected to replace. Or order with a lead time. And forecasting for parts and services and also finding them.
Marketing is the person behind the wheel. They drive it changes the information on the gauges. They influence advertising and sponsors or the look of the car. They are supply chain speaking up when alignment is wrong and we need to figure out this clutch.
So trust me I have spent hours trying to figure this out.
🔬Okay y’all. Getting my booty kicked and confused. On the 1998-2001 usdm Acura Integra front bumper with oem style fog lights.
Which fog lights are correct for the 1998-2001 Integra? (Even though (I believe true oem are raybrig, correct?? ) oem is not available). The 1994-1997 fog lights in the corner are not designed as the correct fog lights for 1998-2001. They have a similar mount as each other but for the 1998-2001 type R those are for air ductwork to run behind the bumper to cool the front brakes.
Which ones are the correct ones in the way they mount to the bottom of the stock bumper below the license plate?
Or are they supposed to split the distance between the license plate location that is straight down while splitting the distance from that location below the license plate on the bottom bumper lip to the end of the grill of the bumper?
All my body panels have matching vin tags true 1998 Integra bumper.
I am also asking for the best headlight assemblies to replace the cheap ones in my car. As well as fog lights
Please help me. My brain can only handle so much information
I understand the 98-01 Integra and 99-00 civic fog light assembly minus the mounting brackets and locations the fog lamp are the same.
Please help
The photos are of me diagnosing my car for why the inner driver halo ring quit working. The issue is inside the assembly. It is not worth tearing into. I cannot aim these lights by the two screws for left to right and up and down. Even when I loosened all the mounting bolts and two brackets with bolts so I have free movement. They are cheap ones. The lenses are destroyed inside and out. It came with 10k blue hids for the low beams in the projectors and the head has ruined everything.
Tyc or depo are the best behind oem correct? And do I need to get spendy correct wattage for bulbs so they don’t produce too much heat from halogen bulbs and hid kits.
Where I have read high end halogen bulbs or high end hids actually run cool. I have not figured out the brands. I also read to throw in high output in lumens for led bulbs for the three lights
But when I had yellow glass lenses for the fog lights on my 1999-2000 civic with 3k hids I was in love. And it wasn’t the heat that destroyed them it was rock chips chipping away at them and moisture got in and that’s the story.
Otherwise I traditionally run expensive SYLVANIA bulbs in the security locked hard plastic case. And I have extremely high output lumens and colors for my running lights and turn signals and brake and tail lamps. The brake lights and tail lights have fans that turn on when the pedal is touched so I removed the interior body panel cover for those and have them in my hatch so it pulls air in. As I have jdm taillights or at least lenses over usdm housings.
Please help I’d love to know what you guys have to share of your knowledge and experience. I can help with atvs and three wheelers and other things. But this Integra hatchback. Gs. Headlamps and fog lamps is kicking me around
I got the clip out just fine and disconnected it from the caliper but I must be misunderstanding how these are supposed to be backed out of the little bracket after? Trying to drop my trailing arm to take it to a shop but every video I watch skips this step
I feel like 47k is the craziest ask. I know good examples go for a good amount but seems to be about 20ishk out of the loop. You buying?
I’ve got play in my shifter in gear it’ll play like it’s in neutral, I did the bushing front and rear in the linkage, is replacing the ball seat the only thing left? Cause the bushing didn’t do anything.
If I want to run this wheel which is an 18x8.5 +30 and also lower the car with possibly skunk2 springs which is a decent drop what tire size can I go for on a dc5 which won’t rub? Will a 215/40/18 work? I do NOT want to roll the fenders but want pretty much visually quite low
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what are you opinion on rep body parts? are they looked down upon? i have a opportunity to buy jdm front end WITHOUT the bumper and thinking going mugen on the bumper
Hi everyone, I am very new to owning a DC5/RSX and was wondering if the Type R headers for the K20A2 will bolt up to the base model K20A3? I've seen a few other posts in this community about this and have seen a lot of people talking about sway bar clearance. Are there any sway bars that would fit on a base model but also give the Type R headers the clearance they need?
I have a dc4 b20b integra that I plan to convert to vtec and boost. With that being said I have a p75 ecu and was confused if I can install hondata and be good or have to buy a different ecu like a p06 that can support vtec because I believe the p75 can’t. Plz lmk if I’m wrong or what’s the best way for going the lsvtec & boost route, also here’s a pic of it :0
It’s a hard decision. Reason being I’m pretty over the 1-2 grind at high rpm in this car and I don’t want to damage it further. I’ve done everything (RMM,cdc delete, braided clutch line acuity shifter cable bushings clutch adjustment) BUT amsoil fluid which is getting done next week.
So if that fixes it I’ll probably keep it but if not I’m ngl the dc5 is tempting. I love the fk8 but I’ve always wanted an integra since I was a teen and there are no dc2 type r’s that are worth buying in my country but this could turn into a seriously awesome car putting that kind of money into it. (Finished product pictured near the end would be intake exhaust tune headers coilovers wheels etc) am I going to make a bad decision please talk me out of it if so 😂
I’m choosing between purchasing a new si or slightly used integra for around the same price.
People like to say the integra is an si in a suit, but can people feel the difference in the performance of the vehicle?
For those who have driven both, how would you compare all aspects of these two cars?
I know they share much of the same platform, but can you tell a genuine difference between them?
Ok.
This is a hard decision.
Been offered a very nice dc5 type r plus cash my way for my fk8 and I just can’t decide.
I love the fk8 it’s amazing I wouldn’t trade it up easily but I’ve had it for 3 years and I’m just after something new and getting older and harder to find in good stock form I don’t know how many dc5’s are going to come up like this at the price it is.
I have a cl9 accord type s for a daily and the family stuff so I don’t need two four doors. My wife have agreed that one fun car is fine 😂
I get cash on top for the trade in at least 8k USD which is more than enough to do all the old rubber and consumables, maybe header exhaust intake and leave it be, even could source a second lower km engine if it’s an option.
The dc5 has done 158,000km and my fk8 has done 63,000km
They want 28k nzd for it so I’d walk away with around 15k nzd cash (usd 9k ish)
It’s the age of the car that is causing me to worry more than anything but then again it’s a fucking dc5 they are amazing. More fun to drive than the fk8? From everyone I’ve spoke. To yes they are and pure hp isn’t everything. There are things the fk8 does well and things the dc5 just does better. It’s a lot of money to part with but for some reason I just think that 6-9km rpm vtec singing on a night road listening to some 80s classic rock is just going to remind me of being a teenager again 😂
Sorry for the huge post but yeah decisions!!
So I’ve bought 3 belts and all of them fit loose I’m at my max adjustment and still loose what belts are you guys running
I was set to pick up a lightly used white on red Type S. And then this blue beauty appeared. I had doubts looking at pictures, but they do not do this color justice. And the creature comforts of the A Spec tech were worth the sacrifice of power and visual flair for me. Glad to be with the Teggy community again. 20 years since the GSR days.
I’ve recently bought my uncles built b18c1 engine that’s been in storage. It’s been setting for well over 10 years and I plan to run it boosted. The only thing he said he regret not doing was sleeving the block. And I was wondering what would be a good sleeve to go with for 600hp and what shop in CA would be able to do it for a reasonable price.
The stock b18c1 that’s in the car right now is also up for grabs if anyone wants to buy it. It’s completely stock and healthy, and is what is in my car rn. I daily it, so the miles will continue to go up until I sleeve my uncles engine. I plan to use the money I get from the stock motor to build a k series in the side. If interested please lmk. I’m located in CA.