r/Jeepwj

I use my 04 4.0 as a work (she's gross I know) my rear suspension is begging me for help every time it sees a speed bump. I go through shocks every three months or so. I have close to 700lbs of tools between the box and what's stored in the tire well. What heavy duty brand of shocks can I use? Could I use coilovers and keep my springs just in the rear? Please any suggestions would be helpful just tired of throwing money at it so often

Hi all!

I bought a '99 Grand Cherokee WJ 4.7 and I'm having a problem with water in the cabin. The floor is wet on both the driver's and passenger's sides. There is water under the carpet, and from the passenger seat there is also dripping from under the glove box.

I checked the sunroof drainage tubes, the floor drainage, and the drainage under the cowl — everything looks fine. What else should I check?

Bought it for cheap, and the problems are minimal too. Just had some vacuum leaks, a torn axle shaft ujoint boot, brakes, and a collapsed seat. Managed to knock everything out this weekend :)

I’ve been debating on downsizing for awhile and my trucks transmission died so I decided to make the jump!

Ive always been an XJ guy but have always liked the the look of the WJ, now this is a daily and it’s got a few issues as it’s 20 years old. The main one is the AC does not blow cold, the lines going to the firewall are cool not cold, the compressor turns on and off. But the air blows hot and only hot. Looking for any advice before I put down the phone and pickup the tools to diagnose!

It’s not dual climate control so that makes things much simpler, any insight is appreciated. Thanks in advance!

We are having one hell of a time , getting this thing to start.

Here’s the rundown. Battery died after it sat a while recharged and it drove . Ignition switch was replaced . And it ran once after that then died won’t start.

It cranks but won’t start. Code reader cannot communicate with pcm (I have checked all obd2 pins and they are reading correctly)

PCM battery and grounds check out good while back probing

Asd relay dosent click on but is getting appropriate voltage to all of its pins. (Swapped with known good relay same deal)

Crank sensor is getting proper voltage as well

This is not my car so I don’t know everything done to it I’m helping out a family member.

Ignition switch was replaced right before its final drive. (Since I have power to pcm , and asd relay and pcm fuze) I’m assuming it’s working correctly.

With key in run all dash lights turn on, but gauges don’t move even the battery voltage gauge.

It cranks but no start, we cannot hear fuel pump prime.

We have hooked up jump pack to rule out weak battery still nothing.

If it’s an immobilizer issue. I wouldn’t expect it to crank which it does

What could cause the no start issue from a dead battery and new ignition switch?

While we cannot connect the reader we were able to read the pcm stored data or something and we have a “JTEC message not received” code in the bcm file

This is leading me to a software issue . I just don’t wanna have him order a new pcm or something without more input.

We are determined to get it running as it holds sentimental value .

Please offer advice all is welcome

Thanks

If you have replaced your fuel filter and found that the new one makes a loud whining vibrating noise from the fuel flow, I just encountered this issue replacing mine today and did a writeup on what causes it and how to solve it on Jeep Forum, here. I am copying it to this post also so people can hopefully find the solution when they need it. That entire thread is people speculating and not really declaring they found a definitive cause and solution they are sure of, so I think this will help people understand this problem better.

The post:

This issue is caused by the o-ring in one (or both) of the larger quick connect fittings. It is most likely going to be the return port which is the female quick connect fitting on the side of the filter with two ports, where the male line is just a tube that pushes into the female connector in the center.

As you know fuel generally dissolves lubrication oil, so the people saying lube your o-rings are on the right track. If you look at all the past posts of people swapping for different brands of filters, and they solved their problem, other people have reported the same brands did not, including the Mopar. I think this is just luck of the draw with what the underlying issue is here.

The return port connector has an internal and external o-ring, and when you push the male end of that line into the connector, it is going to roll the loosely placed outer o-ring out of its position and in with it if it is not lubricated. Sometimes, like in my case, it ends up just a little twisted, and sometimes it gets pushed all the way in. There is a picture on page 2 of the forum post with that o-ring sucked completely inside of the filter. When you get the new filter, that outer o-ring is just loosely sitting in there behind the new white snap clip that is in the port.

So the internal o-ring is the main seal inside the connector, which seals the connection for pressure deeper down the "socket" that the tube goes into. The external, outer o-ring is a secondary seal and serves to prevent dirt, crap, and moisture from entering the rest of the connection. This is why the outer o-ring can dislodge and the connection still does not leak but makes noise. Once you have pulled the dislodged o-ring out with some tweezers, you should be able to look into the connector on the filter and see the internal o-ring protruding around the inside of the socket, as well as the outer edge of a white plastic spacer that separates the two o-rings. The external o-ring needs to press up against that white spacer. Don't try to stick it in the filter side where it needs to go because it won't stay and will keep falling out. Follow my 500 step process below to get it to sit in there right:

If you have encountered this issue and have noise, the fix is pretty easy. Do it now while the connections are still easy to get off. Here is the process:

1. Take the connections off again and remove the filter. Use a light to look into the return port and you will likely see an o-ring in there that looks a little twisted or is completely shoved/sucked in. Mine was barely noticable, but remember it should look absolutely symmetrical. Use some tweezers to pull that outer o-ring out, wherever it may be. DO NOT pull out the internal o-ring that is sitting in a groove deep in the connector, you will never get it back in place.
2. Take the white snap clip, if it did not stay on the return tube, and put it onto the tube end instead of in the filter's connector.
3. Lube the outside of the tube and that o-ring you took out with something like WD-40 or whatever makes things slippery. It wouldn't hurt to lube the outside of the male feed connector on the other side too.
4. Put the o-ring onto the tube and push it flush up against the white snap clip, making sure it does not look twisted at all.
5. Put the filter back on the car and plug everything back in, and make sure you push that return tube in STRAIGHT in and that both sides of the clip latch on both connectors.

You should now have no noise. I had a very loud noise and did not return and get a different filter. I did this and the noise is completely gone. Remember that this could also happen on the female fuel send connector and that outer o-ring could get rolled too far in the fuel line and cause the same problem, so check both sides.

I have marked up a diagram of the SAE-J2044 connector to illustrate this. The diagram differs slightly in that our white clip is not internal to the connector housing but has tabs that stick out the end to help for removal. The function is the same.

Trying to figure out this whistle was told it’s a Intake Gasket from a Shop but kinda hoping for a prayer that it isn’t so is there any other things that could make this whistle (It whistles off the gas and sometimes the whistle just vanishes and comes back later)

I have a 2004 WJ and for quite sometime the ABS light likes to come and go away. The two codes have been 9 and 13. Is anyone here familiar with this ABS system and can give me a bone where to start troubleshooting?
From my understanding the ABS ECU’s solder likes to break.

What tires do you have on your WJ? Mine are getting worn out and I’d love some suggestions from the community!