r/MazdaCX90

Unfortunately, I’ve already leased another Mazda. I downgraded to 70 from a 90 and love the drive train, but the lease end bill $500 or so- not much… It was sent to collections and out of their system. Customer service did nothing to help. Paid the bill through the collections agency because I owe it, but the negative credit remark is so unjust. Anyway, my last Mazda! Buyer beware.

Personally, I didn't get it at first either. But I've come to love having the charge mode button now that I've used it a bit. I'm wondering how others have found gas mileage to be on long trips when charge mode is activated and set to current levels as opposed to starting with an "empty" battery in hybrid mode without activating charge mode.

From my searches on the matter, it seems like people completely misunderstand this function, and the manual doesn't exactly make it clear what the point is.

The way I came to understand it is, based on the fact that it asks you for a charge target every time, the main point is to set the base charge level for hybrid use (generally near current level), NOT to charge the battery per se (unless you want/need to).

If you ignore this button, it simply uses the battery until the charge target is "empty" which is actually 10% as you can see on the gauge. In a standard hybrid model, the battery isn't big enough for you to worry about this and it's all handled automatically. But with such a big battery in a PHEV model, it's actually kind of genius to allow you to set this target anywhere in the battery's charge range, which is why they ask you every time. This annoyed me too at first, like why is it always asking me this BS?!

I've really come to appreciate this little button for several reasons.

1. As a mechanic, I don't like the idea of running the engine for short periods where it never gets hot enough to properly burn off condensation and causes milkshake oil. So this button allows me to make sure the engine stays on until the oil is warm.
   • I really wish I could get a shortcut for the maintenance menu that shows the oil temp.
   • Despite the coolant temp getting warm within only a minute or two, the oil temp takes a VERY long time to come up and never gets above 204. It should be getting to at least 210 to burn off the water, but I've read that anything over 160 should be ok.
2. This button lets YOU be in control of EV/hybrid mode, and you should choose one or the other at the start based on the expected drive. As I just mentioned, the charge target should be set at the current level if you intend to drive in hybrid mode for any length of time, ie using the engine at all. Personally, in my humble opinion...
   • You should either be in EV mode or use the engine, not whatever the car chooses, and this button gives you that power.
   • Letting it automatically run in EV for a short time, then use the last 10% of the battery in hybrid mode with a cold engine turning on and off constantly is not only bad for the engine (see #1), but it's not great for the battery to be charging it back and forth at the minimum.
   • You should choose whether to use hybrid mode when you start the drive based on the nature of the drive if you want to keep a healthy engine, see #1.
   • Don't be afraid to use the engine. It needs to be run sometimes and should be run for the entire drive, not just at the end for a few minutes.
   • You should use the charge button when you do so and set the charge point at the current level as opposed to running it down.
3. When I want to drive spiritedly in sport mode (or normal mode), it doesn't seem to matter what your charge target is. It gives you "boost" power when you want/need it.
   • I wonder if on long uphill grades, if it will drain the battery despite your charge target.
   • Will you lose power if you don't use the charge mode and let it go completely empty on long grades or towing?
4. I can save EV mode for city driving or traffic.
5. I can sacrifice some gas to keep it charged up for later.
   • I get free charging at work, and it's sometimes a pain or I don't have time to charge at home, so it's nice to top it up during errands and save the battery for work drives, especially if I'm resigned to needing to use the engine at some point (and thus want it to run long enough to keep it warm, see #1).
   • This doesn't seem to use much extra gas. I only see 2mpg at worst. Does anyone have numbers on charge mode vs hybrid (without having the EV mode skew the car's calc)?
6. You need to reserve some charge for AC to work. You might notice that there's no AC compressor on the 4cyl motor.
   • It only sorta mentions this in the manual saying that having AC on may prevent charging.
   • I saw one report of someone's AC turning off in hot weather when the battery read empty.
   • Has anyone had their AC stop when the battery is dead?
   • I know it has electric heat, but I would hope that it uses engine heat as a backup. Has anyone had heat stop in the winter with a warm engine and a dead battery?

$625 CAD per month on lease for 3 years for the base model PHEV. Any tips to share?

A month or so ago I was driving on the freeway taking a wide left turn. The turn takes about 30 seconds or so to complete. As I was in the middle of the turn, the steering wheel became locked or stiff. Caught me by surprise but I tried to compensate to maintain my lane. That’s when the steering wheel went back to normal, but resulted in a jerk of the car. Then a second or so later, it locked up again. This happened a total of three times. Fairly scary incident but I haven’t tried taking that route since. Has anyone had any thing similar happen?

So i just got my 2024 Mazda Cx-60 from mazda alabang for the installation of the Autoexe suspension kit as well as the front and rear stablinks. My take are as follows, namely:

1. The stiffness and harsh ride is completely gone.
2. The double bounce of the rear shocks whenever the car is driven over speed bumps is completely gone.
3. AUTOEXE perfected the ride quality AT NO EXPENSE to the sportiness of the car!

I recommend the installation of both the suspension kot and the front and rear stablinks to prevent wear and accidents. One of my groupmates from cx-60 owners PH only installed the suspension kit, and it seems that his rear stablinks already broke. I recommend installing both.

Worth the price!

Hey guys, I am thinking about joining the club, currently I drive a mazda 3 which I love, but family is getting a new member and me being 6,4 I want to get something more spacious, I test drove the car already and it felt the same smooth ride as the Mazda3, there is a premium plus 24 phev going for around 32k with 26k miles that I am ready to pull the trigger, what’s y’all’s experience with the 24 PHEV in terms of reliability?

Did any of you bought extended warranty from Mazda as original bumper to bumper is only for 3 years .

I am thinking about regular CX90 and want to keep it last 100,000 miles ..

Hey everyone,

I want to get the OEM Mazda tow hitch receiver installed on my 2024 CX-90. Right now, I only plan on using it for a hitch-mounted bike rack, so I have zero need for trailer wiring right now, might change in the future, not sure.

To save on parts and dealer labor, I’m thinking about having them install just the receiver and skipping the wire harness entirely.

Is it fairly easy to have the harness added later on if I ever actually need to tow a trailer? I know the rear parking sensors will probably scream at me when the bikes are loaded, but I figure I can just turn those off manually.

Would love to hear your thoughts or if there's a reason I should just do it all at once!

I have a CPO and my factory warranty is expired I think. Where to purchase additional warranty afterwards or is it too late?

I wanted to share my purchasing journey for anyone who might benefit from seeing some actual OTD numbers I was offered along the way. I feel like I got a pretty good deal after shopping around at multiple dealerships. I personally would have benefitted from seeing something like this as this is my first time purchasing a new vehicle and was desperately searching for recent OTD numbers to guide me to the best deal. I hope this ends up being helpful for someone!

If you don’t want to read any further, I’ll give a quick breakdown of my recent purchase (May 2026):
New 2026 Mazda CX-90 Preferred MHEV
MSRP listed: $44,830
Selling price: $40,828 (9% off MSRP)
Total Savings (all dealer, no customer cash): $4,002
OTD: $44,000

For added context, I was primarily shopping for deals via email and text with dealers in South-Central PA and Northern MD. In total, I believe I got pricing from 9 dealers.

The dealer, who is local, also threw in some service incentives like free oil changes, tire rotations, and inspections to sweeten the deal. This is what put me over the edge in choosing them over a dealer further away that they were matching at $44k.

I elected not to take the customer cash after crunching the numbers with the rate I was pre-qualified for through Bank of America (5.24% for 60 months). I qualified for the 0.9% for 60 months so it was a no-brainer.

As far as getting my offers goes, I pretty much just followed the general guidelines of many YouTubers and car-buying experts and just got multiple offers and shopped them around until I felt like I couldn’t go any lower. My first “best offers” were around $45.5k OTD and I just kept working myself down from there. I think my best offers all the way down to purchasing were $45.5k > $44.6k > $44.3 > $44k

For this region, I had two offers at $44,000, and two at $44,300 who wouldn’t go any lower. That was a good indication to me that I probably wasn’t getting a much better deal anywhere else.

I also did my best to cut down on back and forth with salespeople by just coming right out and explaining that I planned on financing through Mazda so they didn’t throw that $2000 customer cash into the pricing. Maybe that’s obvious, but it took me the first two offers to get the hang of what to say.

If anyone has any questions, I would be more than happy to answer them as best as I can!

Update to this post:

https://www.reddit.com/r/MazdaCX90/s/HP4TEe9TXv

The car never produced a code (as expected). After 5 weeks of waiting, we asked Mazda to make a decision. Their decision was to offer no support for the fix. I contacted a lemon law agency in our state who informed us they didn't think it case was strong (they said since the only time we complained about this issue inside 12k miles and 12 months was when we brought it in for a recall, then our state's lemon law would not apply). They did agree that we had a strong case for breach of warranty under Magnuson-Moss. We instructed them to move forward with it. We then picked up our car from the dealer at which it was being held to take it to a different one to be fixed (at our expense; the dealer we had it at was the one we bought it from, but the service department is pretty bad). The day after we made an appointment at the other dealership, they informed us that corporate says they were not allowed to work on our vehicle not will any Mazda dealer. So now we can't even pay to make it safe to drive.

Any time the car gets exposed to water (rain, wash, etc) after I park it for a while, next time it gets used, the parking brake let's go kind of violently. I'm assuming it's rust forming. Is there a fix for this?

I am unable to decide between metallic grey or polymetal grey both with black interior .

One is dark color and other is light blue ..