So I’ve had a noise in the bottom end of my 570 couldn’t figure out what it is decided to take the timing chain cover off and have a look in the Slack in the oil pump chain is crazy. I don’t know how it stayed on the cog.
Hello everyone! First time SxS buyer here. Getting ACL surgery on Wednesday so unfortunately I can’t ride my dirt bike for a while. Soooo I’m getting a side by side in the meantime till I’m fully healed so I can still have fun on the trails. I have no idea what a “fair” price is for one these but I think 9k seems reasonable? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
I currently have 25 in front and 26 in rear mud lites, (got them when I was 16 for the looks) my buddies have stock 2025 570s and make it up all the hills we’ve come across. I usually make it up 8/10 of the hills we’ve come across. I want to keep up as best as I can with what I have which is a 2004 sportsman 600 twin. From what I’ve read the best set up to restore stock power and tires that glide over sand rather than dig in is 25 in (stock size) maxis bighorn 2.0s and 4 identical 12 x 7 in rims preferably aluminum alloy. What do yall think? I included a picture of my bike and the terrain I’m having trouble with. If I’m not riding sand hills I’m riding sandstone and hard packed sand trails with occasional loose sand.
I got this quad for free from my neighbor, and I always had this issue of it shutting off after 20 mins, so I did a compression test and found that I only have 90 lbs of compression. Granted, the engine was cold, but that’s also the only way to know, because it doesn’t really run at the moment.
I’d just like to get it running as cheaply as possible, I don’t need to make 130 lbs of compression or anything like a new motor, I’m not racing it, and I’m not using the quad for work, just as a cheap trail rider. I just would like to know where I should go from here.
It looks like it’s had some pretty bad piston slap, the piston skirts are pretty worn and the block also has some chatter marks but nothing that catches a fingernail. A local shop said that I should just hone it and throw a new piston in, but he didn’t look at the block with a bore gauge. I also noticed some shallow pitting near the bottom in the cylinder.
So should I just get a new 72mm piston, a new jug and piston, or rebore the stock jug and get an overbore piston? I feel like to get it running cheaply a hone and new piston isn’t a bad idea, but I’d like to hear some advice from you guys! Thanks in advance
With Polaris changing the 570 to the 600 for 2027 it seems like the 1000 will be the only full size Ranger available.
So i received this vid from the guy working on my (2020 rzr turbo s) saying that my steering rack is bad and needs to be replaced (i trust what he says , but still want your opinion) and i found this steering rack which is scary cheap , has anyone tried buying something like this ? What are your guys thoughts??
I'm reassembling a '23 Sportsman 570, it's been apart for months and my memory is gone. On the front wiring harness right where the battery is and right where the oval purple block comes out, there's 2 orange wires with single pin connectors. I cannot find any spot where they'd go, they do not reach anything, and I just can't remember if they did go somewhere or not. I don't have any switches on my dash so I'm thinking they are extra power wires in the harness and were not hooked up to anything.
If you have a late model sportsman, can you please pop the hood and see if they go anywhere? Thanks.
2015 rzr 900 idle/starting problems
When its cold, I can start it pretty easily, and itll idle as long as I let it, but once I put it in gear and try to move it, it wont stay idling after i throttle up to move it, without keeping throttle on. Once that happens, I cant start it or idle without added throttle.
Valve lash is good, fuel pressure is 58psi, new plugs, and both have good spark, air filter is clean (same problem with or without air filter, for some more context), new belt on it, timing is good as far as I can tell, good battery, good leads, good injectors, as far as I can tell. The plastic boots between the intake manifold and the cylinder head are fine. Feels like good compression. Throttle body's clean, new gas pedal, no engine codes. What else can I check? I feel like itd be nice to be able to see the fuel delivery and adjust it to just brute force the problem lol.
Its the drive by wire model, so the IAC is in the throttle body, for some additional context.
Genuinely any info is appreciated, if i left it out here but checked the suggestion anyway, ill let you know. I am fuckin STUMPED. Thanks everybody for the help previously.
2007 Polaris Ranger 700 XP
I got this machine used. I was checking the rear brakes out and the rear suspension bushings are completely wasted. I have to get some new ones installed.
I know a search will turn up plenty of results. I don't know a thing about these machines though.
Can anyone give me a link to the exact kit I need? I called a local dealer a few weeks ago and they never called back. It seems like they aren't interested in helping me repair this machine. That can't be the case though. They must be very busy.
Awesome unit and it's be a God send around the house. Now that I have it I need to keep it going.
My quad will not start, does this look like a weak fuel pump? It’ll start with starting fluid. The trickle is the same when I crank it. (i know im an idiot and let it hit the sensors).
Hi all, I picked up a 16 ranger 570 crew 6(full size model with round bar roll cage) for a reasonable price.
Then the work commenced. I had engine rebuilt due to oil burn. And after getting it back and some miles on it, I know this.
Whether it's a 1 way or 2 way bearing in the primary I couldn't tell you, but regardless it appears to be sticking. I know the primary at minimum is pretty worn out. Has about 5k miles, while it runs fine, it's started being hard to shift when the engine is running and I verified while not always, plenty especially after a good ride, the next day the secondary will get stuck engaged sometimes so in park you hear it running the secondary and slipping/ rubbing the belt on primary. And a high pitched squeel when you get it into any forward or reverse gear.
I checked the alignment it does appear to be slightly having the belt pushed towards the engine side sheave on the primary, BUT it looks like the little bushings/washers on either side of the bearing in the center of the primary are gone so I guess that explains. Why sometimes it doesn't seem to do this.
But the primary clutch is clearly worn out, the buttons have worn grooves into the main body of the clutch.
So my assumption is it's best to replace the clutches or at least the primary.
Is this machine worth another 1200 bucks to get an r series dura clutch replacement kit, or should I just grab a 200 dollar primary of the good ol ebay.
All around mechanically the buggy seems to be in pretty decent shape, but still. I'm getting close to having 9k in a 10 year old machine and curious if it's worth it.... Hit me with your thoughts?
it will start but dies off completely right after, one of the times i got it to stay on but kept bogging and only went up to 10mph with throttle pressed all the way. It was working fine till I started to use a tank sprayer treating my lawn, it idled a lot while i was using it. Battery reads 13 Volts when its off.
What's y'all's thoughts on the 2008 polaris 800 EFI? How reliable are they?
I inspect/change everything in this goofy thing every year. I've just never looked at that. Guy I bought it from said he had replaced the first and secondary clutches in 2018....After changing the belt, i test drove it and it started sounding like something was broken. I took the cover off and more belt teeth fell out....like a lot.... cleaned it all out as best as I could, put the cover back on sure enough more sounds....now very frustrated...as i'm disconnecting it from that air pipe jobby i hear a rattle. that thing is FULL of belt pieces. i shake out a full red solo cup full of pieces. clean that out and she's good to go.
not how I thought I'd spend my saturday.
Howdy,
Just purchased a 2017 polaris 450 utility EFI and everything runs and works as it should except the odometer/speedometer does not work at all. no lights, no speed, etc.. I checked the fuses and they all are good. I haven't checked power at the 1 or 2 position on the cable running to the back of the speedometer, thats my goal for tomorrow. Any and all help would be appreciated, am very green to ATVs.
TIA