u/Mogusman748

I got this quad for free from my neighbor, and I always had this issue of it shutting off after 20 mins, so I did a compression test and found that I only have 90 lbs of compression. Granted, the engine was cold, but that’s also the only way to know, because it doesn’t really run at the moment.

I’d just like to get it running as cheaply as possible, I don’t need to make 130 lbs of compression or anything like a new motor, I’m not racing it, and I’m not using the quad for work, just as a cheap trail rider. I just would like to know where I should go from here.

It looks like it’s had some pretty bad piston slap, the piston skirts are pretty worn and the block also has some chatter marks but nothing that catches a fingernail. A local shop said that I should just hone it and throw a new piston in, but he didn’t look at the block with a bore gauge. I also noticed some shallow pitting near the bottom in the cylinder.

So should I just get a new 72mm piston, a new jug and piston, or rebore the stock jug and get an overbore piston? I feel like to get it running cheaply a hone and new piston isn’t a bad idea, but I’d like to hear some advice from you guys! Thanks in advance

I know it’s asked all the time, but I just would like to understand how quick it really happens and how to stop it from happening quickly. I bought the CRT to play older, kinda gritty games like NFSMW. I use 47 contrast and 43 brightness on my Dell E773c and I just wanted to know how long it really takes for burn in to occur because I’m way too worried about it. To the point where it’s kind of hard to enjoy using it.

In other news, for $40 I think I did pretty good for myself

Coming up on 200k miles, last owner put a new motor in that has about 100k miles on it. Before that, it was an Utah car so it has no rust. I think the knock sensor could be going bad because it lugs sometimes and it pulls timing. The issue is pretty well documented and be fixed for maybe $1k or you can splice in a new sensor somewhere else on the engine block for $20. Pretty rare supercharged model in yellow with 4wd and comes with an automatic. I know $4000 is a bit high, but the truck is in pretty good shape overall with no rust and the price is flexible. I’m looking for somewhat of an enthusiast who knows about these trucks. Near the North Conway area in New Hampshire. If you have any questions please ask!

Just had trans fluid and filter changed, undercoated with wool wax, lower ball joints and tires done 9200 miles ago, front pads and rotors and wheel bearings done 9500 miles ago, and new oem wheels. Also had a leaking exhaust header fixed along with the o2 sensor

I know this seems really off, but I was wondering why. I find it odd that the toe on the front is inversely proportional to the toe in the back, along with the thrust angle and steer ahead. Is it possible the shop used the alignment machine incorrectly? Or is it more likely I have frame shift or bent suspension? I also heard some noise from my rear left wheel bearing, but I gotta be honest I’m pretty lost. That shop didn’t seem great to be honest and it wasn’t rated well, only went there because that’s where my t1res got delivered.