With my Wii sent out to a tech for AVE HDMI installation, I recently bought a Bitfunx GCvideo HDMI adapter for the Gamecube. Naturally I expect the Carby to go back in stock any minute now.

But seriously, it looks and sounds great through the Retrotink 4K -- at least for a few minutes. After around 5 minutes or so, the audio starts crackling. Reloading the profile fixes the issue for a few minute, after which the crackling comes back again.

I used the Wobbling Pixels GCVideo 4:3 Fill preset as a basis, and added CRT effects. It's been set to use Gen Lock.

The Gamecube is a DOL-001 with no SP2. It already had a Picoboot installed when I got it so I didn't touch that. Swiss is installed on a memory card SD slot adapter in the 2nd memory slot -- the first one contains a GCMCE. The ODD is installed but not in use. I use a USB-C trigger cable connected to a USB PD adapter for power.

Any ideas on what could be wrong here?

As a bit of background, I've had a 5x since 2022 or so. My main console is the PS2 thru component, but I also have a variety of consoles with different inputs

• Component (PS2, PS3, Xbox, 360, Wii)
• S-Video (N64, Saturn, SNES)
• Composite (DC, NES, Genesis [planning on picking up a Toro box soon for VGA/SCART], VCR for VHS digitizing)
• SCART (PS1, planning on getting cables for more systems eventually)

For the most part, I've played on my 27inch LCD monitor and been quite happy with it. But we've since gotten an LG OLED TV (C4), and I'd like to start migrating to a bigger setup. I've also toyed with the idea of putting together a Windows XP gaming rig, and I could use the VGA input to help with capturing footage (presumably).

I like the idea of upgrading, especially since there's so many more customization options and the profile system is a lot better on the 4k. But I guess I wanna know if there's anything significant I'd miss in the 4k if I went for the CE?

The ps2 wobbling pixels CRT filters are awesome, but I just plugged in my genesis for the first time and it seems like there were no CRT options at all from wobbling pixels or firebrandx. Am I missing something?

I have a few consoles: OG Xbox (bitfunx), PS2 (basic RetroGEM), Xbox 360 and PS3.
My TV is a 48” 4K OLED LG C4.
My question is this: with this exact configuration, will i benefit that much from buying a RT4K CE? I’ll explain better: I also have an mClassic on the way and I’m willing to return it. I know that the mClassic is incomparable to the work and effort behind the RT4K, but will I see that much change with the fact that I’m spending ~500€ for the RT4K?
Sorry, it may look like a newbie question, but after reading so many post here on reddit and YouTube videos I still am very confused.

What I find most fascinating on my Retrotink 4K is the HDMI-In. It makes you try things you never thought about before buying it. After getting crisp 720p with 3x integer scaling and nearest neighbor with old consoles like Xbox 360, I now tried the PS4 Pro. 🙂

Back then I bought the Pro when I still had a 1080p TV (my main motivation for the upgrade was PSVR). It looked like the games were still rendered at something like 2160p with checkerboard rendering or at 1440p and then were downscaled to 1080p. So you got some sort of super sampling. Games like Horizon Zero Dawn or Days Gone looked amazing that way, the anti-aliasing was perfect.

Then I got a 4K TV and the graphic quality kind of degraded because nearly no game on PS4 Pro rendered at native 3840x2160 and checkerboard rendering created ugly artifacts like little holes in hair and gras. Setting the console to 1080p also doesn’t look great because the stupid TV then bilinearly upscales it to 2160p and everything looks blurry.

Now with the Retrotink 4K I tried setting the PS4 Pro to 1080p and scaling it up to 2160p with 2x integer scaling and nearest neighbor.

The result is quite fascinating. Of course everthing looks a bit less detailed because you only have around half of the render resolution. But with the downsampling effect you don’t really notice it too much. The render quality itself is actually better. And games like Bloodborne or Until Dawn that never got a PS4 Pro 4K-upgrade also look sharper that way.

Now I wonder whether I should try the same with my PS5 to improve all those games that are full of FSR2 upscaler artifacts or quite low res from the beginning (e.g. Rise of the Ronin or Star Wars Outlaws). 😄 But losing 120 Hz (40 fps modes!) and VRR is probably a bit too much.

I sold a Retrotink 4K on eBay, sent it, and apparently the USPS smashed it somehow because the outer case looks fine but there’s something rattling around inside. Buyer is sending it back to me, but I’d like to see if there’s ANYTHING that can be done to salvage the device. Does anyone fix these at all?

Hi all, I'm completely new to the RetroTINK community. I received my RT4K a few weeks ago but due to a lot of things going on I didn't have time until now.

I'm looking for help on how to connect my devices properly. I did an initial search but got overwhelmed with the number of options and differences, so I would really appreciate any guidance.

My current setup:

Display

• Samsung 75" QN90D Neo QLED 4K Mini LED (2024)
• RetroTINK 4K Pro

Consoles

• Analogue Super NT
• Analogue 3D
• Analogue Pocket + Dock
• Switch 2
• PlayStation 3
• PlayStation 5
• Neo Geo AES (arriving in November, has HDMI output)

Plan so far:

• PS5 goes directly into one of the TV's HDMI ports
• Everything else (Super NT, Analogue 3D, Pocket, Switch 2, PS3, Neo Geo) would go into an HDMI switch, which then feeds into the RT4K Pro.

While this seems straightforward, after reading previous posts I found a lot of nuances for each device.

So I'm looking for the best HDMI switch solution for this setup, and would also welcome any cable recommendations.

I know this has been asked before but it seems every link I find is either not available or spotty at best. Basically Im trying to connect the ps3 to the retrotink but the hdcp knocks the quality down significantly. I currently solved this by just plugging directly to the tv but it alters my set up and I want to try and get the retrotink 4k scaling on it. I just want to know what the current solution people are using is.

A new RetroTINK-5X experimental firmware is available!

Version 4.00 (2026-05-16)

• Version 4.0 "CRT Simulation Edition"
• Ported RT4K RGB 4:4:4 12bpc Linear Light pipeline
• Outputs true HDR10/HLG with Rec. 2020 conversion and adjustable PQ
• Scanline engine supports Energy Normalization
• RGB Shadowmask and new CRT presets
• "Quasi-4K" modes with 3880x960, 2880x1200, 2880x1080 output for full native horizontal resolution on 4K TVs to preserve mask quality
• Limitations

--Rev A (Launch PCBs) may be capped to 1080p until the Gen Lock code is rewritten
--Rev B (before mid-2022) have degraded shadow mask quality, the mask may need to be changed to a mono type
--Rev C, the majority of units made, have no limits
--Current build does not have inverse telecine or MADI, which requires further and extensive re-optimization and memory management.
-This branch is focused on maximizing the quality of CRT effects and plug and play operation (generic sampling, CRT-sim deinterlace, etc.)

Download from the RetroTINK Firmware Repository

I recently picked up a Retrotink4K and really enjoy it.

However, I realize I need a new video switcher for my consoles. I primarily use a Xbox, SNES, and Genesis. I also have A Dreamcast.

I heard something about getting really good video quality from the Xbox if you connect a component cable into a video switch and then it somehow can output via VGA, but I’m not too familiar with it.

What would you all recommend?

If someone could test a few PS2 titles with the Retrotink 4K Pro that have a native 480p switch on startup and compare that with the game’s normal 480i resolution but deinterlaced with the Retrotink4K Pro’s best deinterlacing setting, and see what the difference is side by side I’d highly appreciate it👍👍

Just got a retro tink 4k pro with a HD retrovision cable for my ps2 but when I plug it in all I get is “hdmi no signal” message at the top right… I can use the retro tink remote to go to settings but no matter what Iv tried I can’t get it to work. Tried using TV for power originally with the type c to usb that came in the box, phone charger and a directly into a portable battery charger as I read low voltage could cause a issue and iv also tried 4 different HDMI cables

I can hear it when set to RCA on the retro tink input but that is all **

If I’m doing something dumb feel free to judge me anything helps thanks

My upscaler arrived, intended for my AES+ and SuperStation One, which still haven’t shown up yet. In the meantime, I’d like to play Garou on my PS5 with some CRT filters. Should I set the PS5’s output to 1080p instead of Auto so retrotink can properly do its job? Also worth noting: I’m using a 4K monitor.