After about 8ish years I’m finally setting up some old systems again. Before, I would just use the rca converter boxes on Amazon, but I want to get something better. Also, I’m sure with 8 years of new tech those boxes won’t work nearly as good anymore. Not looking to spend large amounts on this set up, couple hundred is fine.

I don’t need perfection quality, just something that isn’t painful to look at. Was looking at RetroTinks 6x CE and 5x Pro wondering if either of those would work well for my higher end price tag. I’ve also looked at Hyperkin who has direct rca to hdmi connection for a light price tag. Other options are welcome, thanks.

Tv is LG QNED 65”

The systems being set up needing conversion are:
SNES
64
Genesis (connection currently is rf switch)
PS1
Xbox

As title says, have PS3 been put on still and not left off.

A new RetroTINK-4K experimental firmware is available!

Version 1.96.1 (2026-10-10)

• Fixed bug that dropped data in decimation factor 5x
• Further tuning of thresholds

Download from the RetroTINK 4K experimental Firmware Repository

A new RetroTINK-4K experimental firmware is available!

Version 1.96.0 (2026-10-09)

• Second-generation inverse telecine engine for RT4KPRO with two field look back decorrelation analysis and multi-tap filter bank artifact detection
• Dual FPGA and MCU detection state machines for fast lock / unlock
• Result is significantly improved inverse 3:2 and 2:2 reliability
• For example, Final Fantasy X cutscenes should be nearly free of artifacts and adapt quickly to changing frame rates
• New inverse telecine engine does not need manually tuned thresholds (removed from menu)
• Minor fixes to the XBR smoother plus optimization to reduce the amount of resources used

Download from the RetroTINK 4K experimental Firmware Repository

Hello! I’ll be getting my 6X in the mail, tomorrow. First time RetroTink user. I have a 1-Chip SNES and a set of HD Retrovision Component cables for it that I’ll be using with the scaler. I have an LG C2 Oled, 65”. Any good settings/profiles out there I can use to get started? Let me know!

I have a Gamecube (with Digital AV and RGB Scart right now), a Ps2 (regular, right now with an Eaxus Component cable or a Kaico Hdmi adapter (the silver version if that matters but it has problems cutting off screen) and N64 with RGB Advanced mod (component cable).

My questions:

1. Is there any quality advantage for the GC (e.g. retrobit prism is available near me) or Ps2 (the Kaico or others) to upgrade them to HDMI (for the N64 does not make sense) before connecting it to a HDMI switch or directly with a Retrotink?

2. I read a lot about the CE being probably the fitting choice (and a bit cheaper) but not being that good for Ps2 (and the black pro version looks better than CE ;)

Do I have to worry about quality when going CE?

3. Any other newer or modded consoles (Ps3, Mini consoles, Switch 2, Dreamcast DCHDMI or ultraHDMI N64 - any purpose to connect them to a HDMI switch or directly with a Retrotink?

I will play on a Samsung OLED TV if that makes a difference

Thanks!

I'm making up a new retro nook and I'm going all in on VGA with the Retrotink dongles. Just wanted to know if anyone had used em and had any tips or warnings.

I'm skipping out on the tink branded end cables except for a SCART one or two, since they're basically non-existent outside of the Retrotink store. I've sourced my own high quality VGA to VGA and BNC, which was actually one of my questions.

Has anyone had issues using non-tink cables with the dongles? I'm they're wired as per standard VGA. I'm going with high quality VGA+3.5mm lines from elsewhere because they're both cheaper and I can use longer or shorter lengths than the 6ft store one. Same for the BNC. My second assumption is that they'll be fine going through a matrix switcher. I've got two tailor-made models: 8X8 with a full suite of VGA video and 3.5mm audio. It's literally like it was made with these in mind and finding these two for a song was the icing on the cake for my decision.

The other thing I wanted to know was how they fare for cross console compatibility, like using the Wii dongle for an Xbox with a Wii2xbox adaptor, a SNES with an etim modded N64/AV Famicom, PS2 with PS1 (for RGB instead of the dedicated dongle pulling YPbPr - this is more out of interest than desire to do it), and the Mega Drive one for stuff like an RGB modded PC Engine. Theoretically these should all work since it's just wiring it up correctly and maybe some resistors in some cases.

That way way longer then I interned, sorry. If anyone can chime in with anything that would help, I'd want appreciate it. Cheers.

Edit: I forgot to ask: how is the weight and size (diameter) of the tink cables? Running 9+ chunky VGA shielded bastards off the back of a switcher could really put some strain on. I'm focusing on sourcing the best quality (coax+shielding+blahblahblah) while maintaining the slimmest profile. BTW, if anyone is else is looking, the Kramer C-MGMA/MGMA are incredible.

A new RetroTINK-4K experimental firmware is available!

Version 1.95.0 (2026-10-08)

• Many bug fixes for edge cases and rarely used modes and functions
• Cleaned-up HDMI output audio mute policy: no more garbage audio when no valid audio input is present
• Improved handling and scaling of content when 1080i is selected as the output mode
• Fixed Auto Fill Int and Int HV behavior at higher decimation rates

Download from the RetroTINK 4K experimental Firmware Repository

I've just upgraded to firmware 1.94 (and subsequently 1.95) on my 4K Pro, and I'm getting some pretty bad stuttering every second or so on MiSTer cores that run at 60.1Hz (NES, SNES) when using VRR+VRR Sync Lock.

I'm using the MiSTer DV1 profile set from TheJesusFish (the October 2006 VESA Synclock version). I've tried a couple other cores (Genesis, Saturn), and didn't see any issues there. Switching to Gen Lock fixes the stuttering for NES/SNES. Has anyone encountered similar issues? I'm wondering if this is a specific issue with my monitor (which is a Samsung G80SD 4K OLED) or setup, or something more widespread.

Hi again,

So, for setting up PS2 via component, I went through all of the profiles I liked (mostly CRT stuff) and then I used Mr. Moro's video to set the sample rate, turning on the auto factor + auto phase detection, inputting the correct ADC rate, followed by turning on progressive and interlaced detection. Then I went into the scaler, trimmed via auto fill integer, finishing up by switching to proportional.

My question is, when I'm applying profiles like Kuro's CRTs which already have CRT emulation settings and 4:3 aspect ratio by default, should I be following the process above to set them up correctly for each console?

Many Thanks!

A new RetroTINK-4K experimental firmware is available!

Version 1.93.0 (2026-10-02)

• Improved VRR compatibility
• True VRR now works with BFI (same as Gen Lock)

Download from the RetroTINK 4K experimental Firmware Repository

A new RetroTINK-4K experimental firmware is available!

Version 1.93.1 (2026-10-02)

• Further cleanup of true VRR generation
• ALLM automatically enabled when the display reports support

Download from the RetroTINK 4K experimental Firmware Repository

I’ve been saving up a bunch of money for the 5X Pro but the 6X CE dropped not too long ago. I heard it rivals that of the 5X Pro and for $100 less but I mainly use PS2 and heard the 5X Pro is ideal for it. I’m unsure on which to get especially when the 6X CE just sold out till October-November so do I settle on the 5X Pro or wait for a 6X CE restock??

Hey everyone! I’m looking at getting a dedicated OLED to pair with my RetroTINK 4K Pro for my classic consoles, but I’m torn between the 42" and 48" C6.

The 48" is getting LG’s new tandem panel, which offers higher brightness and better HDR color volume, while the 42" uses the older EX panel but has a higher PPI due to its smaller size.

Since this TV would be specifically for retro gaming, I’m wondering if the 42"’s higher pixel density would be more beneficial, or if the 48"’s newer panel would make a bigger difference. What would you guys choose?