A new RetroTINK-4K experimental firmware is available!

Version 1.48.0 (2026-07-04)

• The Horizontal Blur filter engine has been rewritten from the ground up [RT4K Pro Only]. The old first-order filter is now a true second-order design, which enables a whole family of new filter types with no change in processing latency.
• The original two modes are still there, renamed to reflect what they actually are: "IIR LPF" is now "RC Lowpass" and "IIR HPF" is now "RC Peaking". They behave the same as before and existing profiles carry over automatically.
• Three new lowpass types, in order of steepness: Gaussian (zero ringing by construction, the gentlest), Butterworth (maximally flat), and Elliptic (the sharpest cutoff).
• Three new notch types: Notch, Notch Wide, and Notch + Low. Instead of rolling off everything above the cutoff, these remove a narrow frequency band and leave the rest of the picture alone.
• Notch filters are aimed at cancelling dither patterns at their exact frequency. For example, Notch + Low at 3.35 MHz is well suited for cancelling Genesis/Mega Drive dithering -- the "+ Low" variant also gently shelves everything above the notch to mop up the leftover high-frequency residue.
• The filter frequency control now adjusts in 0.05 MHz steps for much finer tuning. Existing profile values are migrated automatically.
• Corrected the filter frequency calibration on the composite/S-video decoder path (it was previously off by a factor of 2).
• Fixed two long-standing bugs in the edge detection of the motion adaptive deinterlacer. Diagonal edges should now resolve more consistently.
• Internal optimizations.

Download from the RetroTINK 4K experimental Firmware Repository

Hi guys,

I have SNES, PS1 & PS2. I mostly play those consoles on Sony Trinitron M2100K.

I recently bought Retrotink 4K CE and I wanted to try connecting it to LG B9 with hope to replicate that CRT look/feel on my TV.

I focused mostly on PS1, I've connected PS1 to Retroink via SCART cable and then to TV.

If someone likes to play without any CRT filters and don't mind, I think it does a quite good job. However I wanted to have CRT-like feel because I believe that's how those games were meant to play.

Initially I've experimented a bit on my own with Scanlines options etc. I've installed the latest hardware. Eventually I've started to test different profiles for CRT like PVM ones etc.

To be honest, nothing is even close to real CRTs as far as I am concerned. Not only colors usually do seem to look a bit different, but also with those "masks" there are some artifacts that happens when characters/backgrounds move.

Am I doing something wrong? I honestly expected something better, but it's also possible that I am just doing something incorrectly, perhaps didn't calibrate something or whatever. I think I've tried all CRT profiles and I didn't think anyone of them were particularily good. Maybe it would be better with VGA dongle? Or should I look for different profiles online?

I literally tried different filters, then I switched to Trinitron and I was like "Trinitron looks 10x better"

Do you have any tips?

Thx!

Are there any alternatives to laser bear or wiring your own for S video to vga adapters for the n64 for enhanced s video? Part of it is the availability but also the shape of the laser bear one seems somewhat bulky

On a side note i noted the retrorgb page on the adapter shows a different model, was that an old design of it?

I keep getting a glitch with the pcie 4K60 Pro, and now the 4K S is causing audio crackling on the HDMI when it's not on, and even in recording gameplay, and it even kills off the audio after so long.

So I’ve opened up my brand new Retrotink, dusted off my older console and cables to go with it: and I’m not noticing a difference off the bat.

For my PS1 games, I‘ve booted up my OG PS3 using a component cable from HD Retrovision, and chosen to display it at 480i as recommended by other users. Yet even with that and selecting a couple of the profiles loaded onto the included SD card, (Wobbling Pixels NTSC Sharp 4-3 being one), the picture quality from my Digimon Rumble Arena isn’t really more crisp/looking upscaled as I expected.

Is there anyone here who has a similar setup, an OLED TV or just a great point of direction to the best profile/settings in general? ’Cause my 77” display ain’t showing it. And I’d even be willing to subscribe if it’s behind a Patreon or paywall if it’d save me the time of searching in the dark for the best tinks on the rest of my consoles like I’m currently doing for this one😓

https://preview.redd.it/tsn97cwhqgah1.jpg?width=615&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=784c20ddbbc49a62c68e8b441e3d2d0f25b3ecab

Thanks a Million In Advance🙏🏾

So I just ordered a Retrotink and am Excited for it to come in. Im a newb so If I ask a Dumb question please be gentle. But how do you hook up multiple devices to the Tink I have like 5 consoles that all need it but im not sure how to do this. Would I hook a switcher up to the Tink and then all devices up to the switcher? anyway what solutions have you guys figured out and any suggestions?

A new RetroTINK-4K experimental firmware is available!

Version 1.44.0 (2026-06-29)

• Fixed bug introduced a few versions ago where horizontal scaling changes were no long smooth.
• AUX4 now resets input crops to their base position (thank you cobhc for the idea).
• Fixed edge case handling of custom modelines from the sd card. Keep Cur. Res. only works for slots 1/2 (the universal ones) since otherwise it would overwrite the profile's existing data.
• Added "Native Sampling" to Video ADC menu. For applicable modes (Auto Fill, Proportional, Auto Fill Int/+ and where a know PAR is present or Free Form), the ADC sample rate will automatically track such that no horizontal scaling is needed.
• Note: the ADC has a maximum sample rate of 4095 and that CE models have a maximum input width of ~2048, so at 4K resolutions, this feature works only on the Pro model. For out of bound values, the ADC sample rate is set to the maximum and the horizontal scaler is used.

Download from the RetroTINK 4K experimental Firmware Repository

I’m curious if the Retrotink is designed to leave on (with the green light on) after use, or if I should turn it off and leave it off until I need to use it again?

I ask because it seems to be a pain to turn it on sometimes.

I am trying to connect both a dreamcast and an N64 via enhanced S-video (using the laser bear adapter) the 4k but im hoping to avoid having to switch between the two (specially considering that swapping HD15 cables is a bit of a pain). Im wondering if a manual HD15 switch paired with a audio jack switch an the retrotink HD15 to HD15 cable to connect the switches to the HD15 port on the 4k work and if the Enhanced S-video would travel through the switch and cable to the 4k?

I know its a Frankenstein of a set up but my goal is to have everything connected via switches rather than having to swap

A new RetroTINK-4K experimental firmware is available!

Version 1.42.0 (2026-06-27)

• EDTV Sample Rate Detection is now Off/On/On+VGA.
• On+VGA applies the CEA-861 timing when 480p type signals are detected on RGBHV (useful for Dreamcast).
• Sample Rate Detection adds Link Scaler/Vert.
• Turning Link Scaler/Vert. means that all decimation factors use the same base scaling mode and vertical scaling factor.
• Useful if you only want to define the horizontal settings for each decimation factor but want the vertical settings to be universal.

Download from the RetroTINK 4K experimental Firmware Repository

A new RetroTINK-4K experimental firmware is available!

Version 1.40.0 (2026-06-25)

• Internal optimizations

Download from the RetroTINK 4K experimental Firmware Repository

Basically I want to recreate what a CRT would feel but also make sure 2D games still have their 2D effect at all times (like with Sonic games) and also because I need to make it easier to adjust for future use for my Saturn.

Any suggestions or advices one might give? (I did play around setting but I don't wanna accidentally do something wrong)

It would mainly be for pal PS2, Wii and Gamecube games. What one would you guys recommend?

Anyone have 3D print files for a case that will fit a RetroTink RGB2COMP? I have one of the old ones, before the injection molded cases, and the 3D print is delaminating.

Hi, sorry if this has been asked many times but I'm a novice when it comes to this stuff. I have a RetroTink 4K CE. I want to use it for a Sega Mega Drive and an NES. I currently have the RetroTink connected to the TV via a HDMI splitter through HDMI 2.1 cables. The unit powers on and the light goes green but I'm not getting any signal displayed on the TV. Is the Splitter the problem? I have other things like a DreamCast, Laserdisc Player and Xbox connected to the TV through the splitter and same cabling with no issues.