
Probably the coolest amp I’ve tried
Finally hunted one of these down, and oh lawd. It goes so hard. I have a lot of high gain amps and this one is definitely doing its own thing. Surprised these don’t get more love!

Finally hunted one of these down, and oh lawd. It goes so hard. I have a lot of high gain amps and this one is definitely doing its own thing. Surprised these don’t get more love!
So this is truly bizarre. Just got this text from a friend of mine this morning out of the blue. Obviously, I'm not gonna use the cabinet for the other one, but now I will have my own and that is pretty sweet!
As you may recall, I destroyed a customer's 1973 twin reverb cabinet by dropping it 4 feet onto a concrete floor. That sucked. Anyway I'm building him a new one and it's starting to come together a little bit. At this point I've done pretty much all I can do and I'm just waiting for the tolex and faceplate to arrive. The cabinet is solid and looks sharp.
Would that be enough to blow a fuse? The ground wire lost its connection to the chassis while the amp was off and when I turned it on the fuse popped.
Or should I be looking at another reason for blowing a fuse? New old amp recently purchased.
Got this amp used guy said it didn’t have much play time. Played it for about an hour when i first got it worked fine. Didn’t have much time to play finally plugged it in today let it warmup and started playing got up to grab something and smelt something weird looked inside and one of the 6l6 tubes was glowing much hotter then the rest. Took a couple pictures and turned it off.
Hoping for some insight before i try and find a tech to go through it. Thank you!
I'm currently looking for advice on the subject, I have a 45w-ish 2x12 combo plexi copy I built partially from recovered old fender parts (mostly from a 1993 blues deluxe), I built it to the circuit of a late 67'/early '68 plexi, but adapted to available parts.
Because of the PT off a fender, I'm limited to a total heater current of 3.75A, I'm currently using JJ 6L6GC tubes, which are great, but there's always room for improvement, so I'm looking for any tubes that could potentially fit, but not break the bank by being 50-year-old NOS things.
I tried Tung-Sol 5881 reissues, but I found them too agressive in the upper mids for my ear when cranked,
I'm considering Tung-Sol 7581As, but it's just a wild idea.
If anyone has any experience running those in a plexi-style circuit I'd greatly appreciate any insight.
The primary load is 4.3k ohm, plate current is around 435vdc and screens around 430.
Thanks!
Bonjour! est-ce "juste" un problème de lampe?! ça à l'air sacrement sérieux!
si j'enlève juste cette lampe qui a l'air défectueuse, est ce que l'ampli pourrait remarcher à nouveau?!
merci d'avance!
Had a customer bring in a completely bodged up amp by some ‘boutique’ builder that looked worse than when I run pedal building workshops. The fiberboard was warped and messed up (shouldn’t be used anyway as it’s prone to leakage and isn’t designed for lateral insulation), the wiring made a dozen ground loops so it was noisy as hell, and the whole thing was just a complete clusterfuck.
So I quickly spun up a replacement PCB in Kicad and added some upgrades including a proper bias circuit, and separate grounds for each stage. I don’t care if people want to espouse the virtues of ancient tech that wasn’t good when it was new, I went and studied EE and there’s a reason they spend whole units on PCB design and best practices.
Next step, finishing up the wiring and moving onto testing.
Ready to get redemption on the pigeon poop cap can ground lugs!
It's a 15 watt amp. It does have a direct recording out xlr that runs to my interface but the built in cab sound is just one thing, and it's always slightly distorted. In a really nice way, but pure clean isn't an option. Probably the preamps but I can get clean tone if I use the cabinet
I want to try to run the amp tone into the interface and use an IR for the speaker.
Does anyone know how to best do this?
I have recieved new Tung sol 12ax7 preamp tube, put it in v1 position. It sounds strange while touching. Can you determine the issue? Folks thanks in advance!
Dumble Amps officially announces reissues of the Overdrive Special, MegaPLX, and Tweedle Dee. Custom orders are now available for the legendary boutique amps
Does anyone have experience with the Origin 50 combo and what the circuit is like or based on?
I recently got a ST20C and I like it but it doesn’t have quite enough headroom so it’s a little more distorted than I’d like at stage volume. I started looking at the Origin 20 and 50 and those have a master volume as well as DI out and a Creamback speaker. On paper, it’s what I’m looking for but I don’t know much about the circuit. Are they based on the JTMs? I’m also looking at the Friedman Runt 20, but it’s more of a 2 channel amp and pricey.
I play alt-country and mostly play fairly clean rhythm but also trade leads. The ST20C handles boost for leads very well and the cleans sit well in the mix, but it starts getting pretty gritty pretty quick.
Hi.
Home player. I’m running 2 amps together and balancing volumes between a cranked Silvertone 1420(Sears XL 5w alnico) and a Garnet Tube PA (35W? 2x6L6)
If I were to jump up to a bigger small combo amp to crank, and get some sweet saxotones, I couldn’t play it at home and would HAVE to be gigging it…
…are there m/any tube rectified bass-and-guitar-friendly single ended heads that take kt88’s? Looking for 15-20w with big fat lows.
I think that’s the sweet spot for me. It’d have to be bass-friendly also, as funding this would likely have me moving my ‘69 Bassmaster. Extra points for a real slave out and variable negative feedback.
What’s out there?
I’m running the amp in the blend loop (red box) that hits an ampeg style AIAB before a slapback echo, the Diabolik is a Brassmaster cloner.
My setup sounds great, covers higher gain territory as well as classic American sounds.
Currently running through a UK Celestion Century G12 Neo.
I Am moving to Ecuador from the US in 2027 and am having my belongings shipped. Any recommended packing for a prs archon 50 to survive the trip? Or am i better off selling the amp and buying new when I get to Ecuador? UPDATE: thanks to everyone who responded. I really appreciate the advice. My plan is to take out the tubes and pack with bubble wrap separately, same with the cab, and use the expanding foam in garbage bag for the main chassis
recently got this amp and it is awesome, but last night at practice I noticed plugging into input 2 was much hotter and felt like more presence and power than input one, if that makes sense...this was curious to me because everything I have read says input 2 is the padded (-15) input so I was wondering what was up with that? did find a forum post that someone was saying how they put different preamp tubes for each input making their input 2 hotter and maybe thats whats going on?
Sorry for no video as I didnt think it was necessary.
I have this H&K18. Had all the tubes tested, checked the power amp itself, checked all my patch cables. Every time I plug into the return jack in the effects loop of the amp, my clean volume cuts to nothing. The dirty channel will engage a tiny bit of volume but thats it. When nothing is in the effects loop its fine. But the issue is I use a very nasty distortion and I need my noise gate in the effects loop because it cant handle all that gain.
Google says it can be a corroded jack or something as the other issues that it could be seem to not be the case. Is there anything I can do before I have to shell out for some big repair? This is my bedroom amp and its perfect for this.
Hello everyone, so I'm a little newer to the tube amp game. Was able to buy my friend's old DT 15 Watt for $450. She only ever used it for studio recording. Now it sounded beautiful plugged into her V30 1x12 and I do have a plan to get an actual better cabinet but I have this old cheap behringer combo which doubles as a loud speaker for 2 bugera speakers. I have 8ohms running into one of the speakers that is listed for 8ohms with a speaker cable and I'm getting this terrible glitchy signal. Please tell me this is just the 14 year old bugera speaker and not the nearly brand new Orange amp I just spent half my paycheck on ;-;.