r/Welders

Got my grandpas old welding helmet, it has a whole bunch of crap on the inside screen. How would I go about cleaning it without fuckin up the screen?

If you know, how to improve my skills, pls, type some advice, how to do better welde seams

Hi, I'm teaching myself stick welding. In this photo I made a flare bevel weld between some 11 gauge rectangle tubes using 3/32" 6011 electrodes at 80A DCEP. I think the "stack of dimes" appearance looks ok, not great, but what worries me is there's something that looks like maybe scalding or porosity along the edges of the weld. What is this, is it a problem, and if so how can I correct it?

Thanks,

My Dad's Work... Each piece is built up by individually shaping and welding pieces of steel together until the form starts to emerge. No casting, just a slightly ridiculous number of pieces of steel and a lot of hours in the shed 😅

I've recently started sharing his work online because most of it has never really been seen outside family and friends.

Thought this might be a good place to show some of it to people who actually know their way around a welder!

https://www.instagram.com/burning__fingers?igsh=NHhkNXRzM3Q1aWY1

Hyy guys. I've been trying to learn vertical uphill welding on my own. After few days of practice this is what my welds look like. Fellow experienced welders, can you take a look and give me advice on making it better.

Thanks

So I asked to do this job that keeps coming in, and it's 3/8 Aluminum. Ill post a picture of the welder and the settings I'm using. I keep getting soot and spatter, it's either too hot or the gun gets way too hot. I've brought it up to my supervisor multiple times and all I get is a shoulder shrug and excuses. I can't seem to dial this machine in and I'm so over this looking like crap. Yes it does get powder coated, but I want to do it right! Thanks in advance

Don’t really weld that much at all, I own an old sears craftsman gasless mig welder that was gifted to me by a coworker a while back that I use for small stuff mostly broken bolt removal. Another coworker let me try his multimatic 215 and these were the results what do you think. 1/8in steel. settings on last slide.

Hey there , trying to get into practicing some stainless pipe but can’t really get my hands on stainless coupons. I have tons of 6inch sch 80 and some 2 inch monster, Would I be able to practice using carbon? Given I’d set it up as if i were doing stainless, purge it and use stainless wire?

The whole staircase is made by us , same structure on top.
Due to size and weight we made it in smaller parts that were fitted and welded on site.

Just to share how we work in the north of France !

Have a good day welders !

There are some jobs that many welders are reluctant to do. One of them is repair of Aluminum rims So this posting and pictures are of a repair that was never done. It is for instructional purposes only of how one MIGHT go about performing a repair to a damaged spoke. Because this is a post about a repair that was never done, no need to post warnings about how its not safe to do these types of repairs. Remember, this repair was NEVER DONE!

CRACKED SPOKE

Most rim damage is in the form of cracks along the the edges of the rim where the bead seals. These are usually cracked by hitting the curb or other obstruction with enough force to cause a crack. Because aluminum does not have the ductility of steel, it is more likely to crack than bend and absorb the force of the blow.

This rim had a crack on one of its five spokes. Spoked rims tend to be relatively thick, sometimes over an inch thick. This requires that the crack be entirely cut out. The way this is accomplished is to grind a deep bevel that goes from the top to the bottom.

The bevel starts approximately about 1/2" to 5/8" on either side of the crack. Sometimes its best to use a cutting wheel and slice the bevel down rather than grind it out, its faster and more precise.

Once cut out A bead is run along the bottom of the bevel. It does not mattter if you are able to fuse to the bottom of the cut because the rim will have its backside ground out until it hits the top side weld making a full penetration weld once its fill in from both sides.

PUT PLENTY OF METAL AT THE START AND STOPS WHEN FILLING THE GROOVE

It is a good idea to start and stop your beads on the outside of the groove so it protrudes if you do this you will end up with enough build up on the outside edges so that you won't have to go over the areas and fill them in. You may only want to run a light cover pass over the areas, smoothing the beads down and making them even.

BUILD UP TILL JUST PAST FLUSH

When filling the groove run overlapping beads. It is better to run stringers (straight beads) one overlapping the other until the groove is completely filled in. Keep running beads until the entire groove is filled past flush. This way you allow enough material so when grinding it down you have solid metal ready to go.

Once filled in this repair shows a cover pass done by depositing a large weave from side to side smoothing the final pass and making it easier to grind flush.

FLIP IT OVER AND GRIND DOWN INTO CRACK

Once the top side is welded out, flip it over and grind out the backside of the crack. This is important because you need to make sure that there are no poorly fused areas along the root of the weld, air pockets or inclusions of foreign matter that can reduce the integrity of the weld. You want it to be pure, solid metal from top to bottom. It is a good idea to build up the backside above the original level as this will leave a larger mass of metal and help strengthen the repair. While this will throw the balance all to hell, it will have to be countered with plenty of lead weights and a balancing machine.

COVER WITH A HEAT RESISTANT BLANKET WHEN DONE

It is a good idea to let these types of repairs cool slowly. This can be done by covering the rim with a heat resistant blanket.

USE AN EMERY DISC TO BLEND IN THE WELD MATERIAL

Once all the welding is done an emery cloth or flapper disc is used to pare the metal down to flush. Two grits can be used. These flapper discs come in various grits. a 40 or 36 grit will remove a lot of metal and then a 60 or 120 grit can be used to finish off the repair.

The use of the grinder is a learned skill when performing these tasks as it is easy to be too heavy handed and find yourself busting out the welder again in order to put back excess metal you removed by accident.

Finally you can get some medium grade stainless steel wool to run over the repair and it will blend in the metal further making the repair invisible.