r/cade

The desk is a Qanba Arcade 2009, with the lever swapped out for a Seimitsu LS-56; these desks are readily available for around $800, but I was lucky enough to get it on steep discount. I added a VESA arm and an open box monitor from Micro Center, and put in a Brook Universal board for PS5/Switch support.

I got a Exa last week (I know I know, kinda drank the kool-aid on this one), so I also installed a JVS adapter and a marquee (read: I wrapped a promo marquee around some cardboard and taped that to the monitor).

Anyone know anything about this NBA Jam? It looks like a somewhat recent build. The seller told me it came from a company in Portland, Oregon that was working with Adidas called Set Marketing. Looks and plays like it’s brand new. Going into a brewery/food pod location where I run a pinball route.

Hi everyone,

I’m converting a 2-player bartop arcade from Pandora to a Windows mini PC and I’m currently troubleshooting the controls.

I have two genuine Sanwa joysticks, each connected to its own Zero Delay USB encoder.

Windows detects both encoders correctly, and I’m testing in joy.cpl.

The problem is identical on BOTH players:

When the Sanwa is connected through the supplied 5-pin joystick cable, only UP works correctly. The other directions do not register normally.

The 5-pin header on the encoder is labeled:

AU / AD / AR / AL / VDD

I tested the four separate 2-pin directional inputs using a normal 2-wire arcade button cable and a working button:

AU = works

AD = works

AR = works

AL = works

So all four directional inputs on both encoders are working properly.

I also tested the MODE input. It switches between axis mode and POV Hat mode, but the joystick problem stays exactly the same: only UP works.

I removed and inspected the supplied 5-pin cable. It appears to be straight-through, with the five wires remaining in the same order from one end to the other.

I found a video showing a very similar symptom caused by a 5-pin pinout/common mismatch, where the harness had to be reversed or re-pinned.

I briefly considered plugging the Sanwa-side connector 180 degrees reversed, but there was physical resistance/keying, so I did NOT force it.

At this point I don’t want to re-pin anything without knowing the correct wiring.

My questions:

1. Does this sound like a pinout/common mismatch between the Sanwa 5-pin PCB and this Zero Delay encoder?

2. Can I fix this with the hardware I already have by re-pinning one end of the 5-pin harness?

3. What should the exact Sanwa 5-pin → AU / AD / AR / AL / VDD wiring order be?

4. Is this encoder’s 5-pin header actually intended to work directly with a genuine Sanwa JLF/JLX-style digital microswitch joystick?

5. If not, should I bypass the 5-pin header and connect the joystick through the four separate 2-pin AU/AD/AR/AL inputs instead?

If so, I assume I would need a harness like:

Sanwa 5-pin

→

4 x 2-pin directional connectors

with the common duplicated to all four directions.

I do not currently have a multimeter, but I can re-pin connectors or buy an adapter/harness if needed.

I’ve attached photos of the encoder header, the Sanwa 5-pin connector, and the supplied cable.

Any help from someone who has used a genuine Sanwa with this style of Zero Delay board would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!!

I couldn't copy and paste from my phone so I just took a screenshot. Any help is definitely to the plus!

After working on this project off and on for 6 months, I have finished my first arcade cabinet! Decided to go with a design where you can swap out the front controller board piece, depending on if you want to play with joystick + buttons versus a keyboard and mouse (I am using a mini PC with Batocera so it can play up to original xbox / ps2, and also Steam). I also decided to design it around an electric standing desk to save on materials. I used MDF so it is nearly 100 pounds!

Also fun fact, I managed to make the entire thing in my small apartment using nothing but a jigsaw and wood glue! And a hole saw for the buttons. No screws / nails.

I've bought these buttons: Link

Anyone know if you can rotate the text bit somehow relative to the microswitch alignment?

Since all are in a line it looks like going to be tight for wiring. With plain buttons obviously I could roatate as I wanted to give access to connections on the microswitch but since these have text on them you have to have them all aligned in a row.

I've taken another button apart and it doesn't look like its possible but just checking I haven't missed something obvious or anyone has any tips

Built this out of mdf, made it NHL 94 theme.

I know I seen this for sale somewhere. I just picked it up with no PC . Trying to track down where I've seen it before