r/myog

Nashville Packs was not taking new orders and I’ve been eyeing the Cutaway for a while for an upcoming trip.

Made a clone from photos, descriptions, and the generously detailed spec sheet from their website. A really nice design which can be made with just a front and back panel and a single continuous seam. (the bottom is an extension of the back panel.

This is my first time working with Ultra 80X. To compensate for its lower denier and thinner backing, I backed the center and side anchors on the font panel with a double layer patch that I taped over on the inside.

Vest straps are made from Ultra 200X, 3mm spacer mesh and some 6mm eva foam in the shoulder sections.

Total weight with Y strap came out to 9.7oz

I want to add a perimeter mesh to a tarp/tent fly, and like the idea of using the kam snaps to quickly attach or detach it from the fly. My worry though is that the hole it puts through the fabric will spread? I don't have any experience with this type of thing so I want to check before I go ahead and do it. There won't be really any tension on it, just hanging down from the perimeter, but the fly will be under tension so my worry was it will make the hole spread. Maybe a non issue but, i wanted to be sure!

Edit: I'll add, I'm open to other ideas on how to attach it! These were just the best way I had thought of as of now!

I don’t know why I hadn’t thought of this workaround earlier! Sad that I can’t do it with my Juki industrial but this trick should work on most domestic machines. Happy sewing!

So I make custom upcycled clothes —mainly jeans. I am trying to make a freezer paper stencil for a patch that's 4×5 for a knee patch. I keep tearing the letters because the there's not enough room to make decent size spaces. Any tips or tricks for doing more intricate designs?

1. Ironed the writing side of two packets of clean Crisps (potato chip) packets together to make a thicker mylar sheet.

2. Used an online paper template to get the shape I wanted. Hold to face, make marks, trim and repeat to get a good fit. Transfer to mylar sheet and cut.

3. Either hole punch holes both sides and tie thin elastic (lighter), or sew thicker elastic (comfier). Do one end and test the fit before finalising how taut the strap is. I put some Duct tape over the stitching to reinforce.

I have not comfort tested overnight yet, but so far it feels fine. It does reflect some heat back onto your face, making it feel a bit warm. The fit for me is very good; it doesn't compress my eyelids or create friction on my eyelashes

The outer fabric is BTM breathable polyester microfibre in burgundy from profabrics UK. The lining is airtex eyelet mesh from eBay.

All seams are fully enclosed and the pattern has no inner leg seam, to reduce scratchiness and chafing. I drafted the pattern using my trouser pattern block (following Winifred Aldrich's metric pattern cutting guide) - squaring down from the crotch to make it possible to remove the inner leg seam, and then adding a section below the knee to taper it back in.

The waistband is elasticated but I also added elastic cord and a toggle for extra security.

I designed the pattern from scratch using a 3D CAD program to help define the more complex shapes, then laser cut the fabric. I took inspiration from the Black Diamond Blitz and Distance backpacks where the cinch top is integrated with a flap that opens and closes in one smooth motion. The keys to this design were using a cyberian cord loc for the cinch and integrating it to the top flap. I used Fidlock buckles for the top and piping sternum straps, and Fidlock winch dials to add side compression.

I went through a lot of prototyping and testing with this design and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out!

Hey guys,

I finished my first project a few days ago. I'm going to use it for a section hike of the GR10 this summer. I wanted to make a very simple and light pack made for walking all day.

I made my own pattern for the body, I traced the dimensions of my two backpacks I have and adjusted it for my needs. It tapers a lot to the bottom, so as my food disappears, the backpack stays tight, the extension collar isn't as long as I wanted but it'll work. More ultralight I guess lol. For the fabric I used recycled 70D diamond ripstop nylon with a UTS-coating.

For the straps I took inspiration from nashville packs since I've heard their supposed to be the most comfortable, but I wanted more space in the strap pockets, so I made em a little more vest like. I used their way for measuring the strap size and it worked good. I used the method of attaching the straps to the body with an O-ring which I got from the pa'lante joey straps. Mine don't have the perfect angle for my body shape but still very comfortable. I used gossamer gear 8th inch foam, 3d mesh and the ripstop nylon.

Large front mesh pocket, bottom pocket, shoulder strap pockets that fit 600ml softflasks and small items like sunscreen, sunglasses, soap, spoon and toilet paper. Side pockets that fit one 1l bottle my cold soaking jar and trekking poles. I wanted to make adjustable side compression straps for holding my trekking poles in place but decided on a non adjustable 10mm elastic instead for simplicity and less difficulty sewing. I also a added a sleeve for three sections of a thinlight pad.

I used an old electric sewing machine from my grandma. I had no sewing experience less than a month ago, but this was good exposure therapy :D. I learned alot. I used Gütermann tera 80 thread for everything with a microtex 70 and 80 needle.

I estimate it has 25l fully rolled down and maybe close to 35l filled to the brim. Finished weight is 326g.

This is everything I used:

https://www.extremtextil.de/netzstoff-elastisch-fein-und-leicht-180g-qm/72974.SW

https://www.extremtextil.de/ring-25mm-edelstahl/70665

https://www.extremtextil.de/elastisches-band-10mm/70222.SW

https://www.extremtextil.de/gurtband-polyamid-15mm/70283.SW

https://www.extremtextil.de/blitzverschluss-zum-einseitigen-faedeln-15mm-buddy-lion/72840

https://www.extremtextil.de/leiterschnalle-15mm-flach/70219

https://www.extremtextil.de/3d-netzgewebe-2-7mm-unelastisch-400g-qm-kleinmenge-schwarz/73195

https://www.extremtextil.de/diamond-ripstop-nylon-robic-ocean-recycling-70den-uts-beschichtet-100g-qm/73078.WEI

https://www.extremtextil.de/kanteneinfassband-ripsband-polyester-15mm/70447.SW

https://www.extremtextil.de/kanteneinfassband-ripsband-polyester-20mm/70398.SW

https://www.extremtextil.de/kanteneinfassband-ripsband-polyester-10mm/70473.SW

https://www.extremtextil.de/magnet-zum-einnaehen-1-paar-oe-12mm-haltekraft-1-2kg/73064

If you have any questions or would like pictures of specific things I could add them afterwards.

No clue if he made this but I really hope he did!

I couldn't be happier! Thanks Prickly Gorse! https://www.myogtutorials.com/darted-hip-pack/

This was my best attempt at trying to tone down how many colors and patterns I used-ha!

Materials used:

• Waxed Duck Canvas (color: terracotta)
• Quilting Cotton (multicolor stripes)
• Ripstop (color: grey/green)
• VX21 X-Pac (color: coyote)
• Nylon Webbing (blue stripes)
• Gutterman TERA 80 100% Polyester Thread

Sewn on a Juki F600

Picture Description: a multicolored handmade hip pack. It's big enough to hold a book, uses a variety of fabric textures and has two zipper pockets. There's a green tag inside that says "quality shit".

Has anybody tried it? I'm -thisclose- to getting one. How on earth do they get that closed loop of paracord for the handle??

I bought this bouldering mat very cheap but I’m not sure how I’d go about fixing this strap? Any help would be much appreciated!

I’m seeking suggestions on how to re-cover or repair this kayak seat.

Was loaned a kayak long-term and told I could do whatever I like with the seat.

The original outer plastic-like coating was mostly peeled off, and a couple of extra EVA foam sheets were duct taped down over it (1st pic).

I removed the seat to clean it and investigate how to repair or fix it better. It appears to be (thermo?) molded EVA foam (2nd pic, bottom of seat), with a fabric cover, that had the original vinyl-like coating glued onto it (3rd pic).

Is there a glue fabric combination that could be used to recover it?

Alternatively, would it be a bad idea to cover it with overlapping 4” strips of Gorilla Waterproof tape, making sure to press it down into the contours of the seat?

I’m in the process of recreating a bunch of motorcycle bags my friend lent me.

Anyone have an idea as to where I might find these little metal clips?

Free-styled this ice bandana last night to run in this heat wave. There is a layer of stretch fabric under the pokemon print in the pouch to slow the melt. No bounce and kept me cool for 7 miles. Definitely not the prettiest thing In the world but works perfectly!

Project pictures with descriptions linked below https://imgur.com/gallery/SNXuzPZ

Super-ultralight backpacker Reuben recently passed away. In a memorial video, Reuben is shown introducing various pieces of personal backpacking kit, including a water-boiling cooking pot made out of a 750ml Fosters beer can. Reuben credits others with the design (12:49) https://youtu.be/MWXFDOw586w?is=hAi1Kz50CtFbCQRK

I decided to replicate the pot. I dont have a smooth edge can opener that would work for it. Part of the draw was finding a work-around. I went through 4 Tecate cans and 2 Fosters trying different approaches. And I ended up adding a small v-notch to the rim for improved pouring.

Please note, the inside of these beer cans are coated in plastic. Since boiling water keeps the plastic at 212F or below, there is debate on whether that's high enough to melt the plastic in cans.

Regardless, what people seem to agree on is that this plastic is harmful if consumed. So if you plan on actually using a pot like this, do so at your own risk.