r/myog

Maybe not SOS since this is a hobby and not my full time job but still looking for help.

My industrial sewing machine (Artisan 618-1SC, Chinese Mitsubishi clone) had a hard stop and then started clicking when running. Looks like the rotary hook took a few good hits (most of those marks are definitely not from me, I'm at least the 2nd owner of this machine). Does it look like its out of time or just that the hook got mangled and needs to be filed back a little?

First stab at a hammock. Happy with the end result considering still very new at sewing. Very comfy! Love the feeling monolite offers in respect to the comfort to structure. Works best for me. Roughly 11 foot hammock.

- 1.5 Oz monolite fabric (black)
- 7/64” amsteel

Nashville Packs was not taking new orders and I’ve been eyeing the Cutaway for a while for an upcoming trip.

Made a clone from photos, descriptions, and the generously detailed spec sheet from their website. A really nice design which can be made with just a front and back panel and a single continuous seam. (the bottom is an extension of the back panel.

This is my first time working with Ultra 80X. To compensate for its lower denier and thinner backing, I backed the center and side anchors on the font panel with a double layer patch that I taped over on the inside.

Vest straps are made from Ultra 200X, 3mm spacer mesh and some 6mm eva foam in the shoulder sections.

Total weight with Y strap came out to 9.7oz

I don’t know why I hadn’t thought of this workaround earlier! Sad that I can’t do it with my Juki industrial but this trick should work on most domestic machines. Happy sewing!

I want to add a perimeter mesh to a tarp/tent fly, and like the idea of using the kam snaps to quickly attach or detach it from the fly. My worry though is that the hole it puts through the fabric will spread? I don't have any experience with this type of thing so I want to check before I go ahead and do it. There won't be really any tension on it, just hanging down from the perimeter, but the fly will be under tension so my worry was it will make the hole spread. Maybe a non issue but, i wanted to be sure!

Edit: I'll add, I'm open to other ideas on how to attach it! These were just the best way I had thought of as of now!

I recently finished my 3rd project - the 3.6oz quilt - and wanted to share some pictures

I remember scouring this sub for days collecting all sorts of great info when starting out; it was such a huge help, so I thought I could make a post to hopefully help anyone interested with their own, similar projects.

Unfortunately, I didn't really take enough pictures for proper tutorials (kept forgetting until after a few steps had been completed), but hopefully the info here can be of some use to somebody. Happy to answer any questions, and I'll try to link some of the most useful resources I found for each project as well -

6.0oz APEX sewn footbox top-quilt

In hindsight, this was probably not the best "first project" (not counting some stuff sacks). The sewn-footbox design was a bit of a bear, especially with the 6.0oz APEX, which was a real challenge to work with and sew, at least for me. The good news is, starting with this one made the subsequent projects feel like a breeze

tips/resources:

• u/KyleKoppenhaver's 'sewn round footbox' post, along with the links he included, inspired the circular footbox design
• u/craderson's subsequent 'sewn footbox construction tip' sold me on giving it a shot. I didn't love the idea of the inner being detached from the footbox, but couldn't figure out how to get it attached until coming across his post
• another post from u/craderson which was helpful for closing up the quilt cleanly
• tips for sewing apex (apex-side-down didn't work for me, hence the tape over my walking presser foot; I'd recommend trying both to see which you prefer)

1.1oz SilpolyXL 6'x9' tarp

pretty straightforward - a (small) rectangular tarp

tips/resources:

• the most notable change was sewing the tie-out box stitches a ways off the edge of the tarp "to hide them better". I would not recommend that; it makes the edges of the tarp fold back awkwardly as pictured
• I would also probably go with slightly longer tie-out ribbons if I were to make another version

3.6oz APEX top-quilt/underquilt hybrid

designed to be able to function well as an underquilt, a cinched footbox top-quilt in warmer weather when I don't need the 6.0 quilt, and as a casual blanket. Very simple & versatile

tips/resources:

• loosely based upon Backcountry Banter's classic top quilt tutorial
• highly recommend making secondary suspension tabs if using the grosgrain-style primary suspension channel, as it turns out grosgrain slides very easily against shock cord
• prusik'ing secondary suspension to the primary was inspired by Jacks R Better's video on it
• I'm still experimenting, but it seems the secondary suspension tabs may work well as a primary suspension, that way the long lengths of shock cord can be ditched. Kind of like this, but attached to the hammock ridgeline via prusiks
• spliced prusiks were inspired by Jeff Myers' video(s)

That's all - really appreciate all the contributions that have been made here. Hopefully this too can be of use to someone

Edit: one last general tip which has been valuable - Google-based subreddit search has been way more useful for me than Reddit’s search functionality. Just tack “site:www.examplesite.com” on to your google search, and it will restrict the search to that domain/subdomain. Works with or without subreddits. For example you could search “top quilt site:reddit.com/r/myog” and the results will be restricted to this sub. That’s how I found the majority the posts which were most useful

So I make custom upcycled clothes —mainly jeans. I am trying to make a freezer paper stencil for a patch that's 4×5 for a knee patch. I keep tearing the letters because the there's not enough room to make decent size spaces. Any tips or tricks for doing more intricate designs?

1. Ironed the writing side of two packets of clean Crisps (potato chip) packets together to make a thicker mylar sheet.

2. Used an online paper template to get the shape I wanted. Hold to face, make marks, trim and repeat to get a good fit. Transfer to mylar sheet and cut.

3. Either hole punch holes both sides and tie thin elastic (lighter), or sew thicker elastic (comfier). Do one end and test the fit before finalising how taut the strap is. I put some Duct tape over the stitching to reinforce.

I have not comfort tested overnight yet, but so far it feels fine. It does reflect some heat back onto your face, making it feel a bit warm. The fit for me is very good; it doesn't compress my eyelids or create friction on my eyelashes

The outer fabric is BTM breathable polyester microfibre in burgundy from profabrics UK. The lining is airtex eyelet mesh from eBay.

All seams are fully enclosed and the pattern has no inner leg seam, to reduce scratchiness and chafing. I drafted the pattern using my trouser pattern block (following Winifred Aldrich's metric pattern cutting guide) - squaring down from the crotch to make it possible to remove the inner leg seam, and then adding a section below the knee to taper it back in.

The waistband is elasticated but I also added elastic cord and a toggle for extra security.

I designed the pattern from scratch using a 3D CAD program to help define the more complex shapes, then laser cut the fabric. I took inspiration from the Black Diamond Blitz and Distance backpacks where the cinch top is integrated with a flap that opens and closes in one smooth motion. The keys to this design were using a cyberian cord loc for the cinch and integrating it to the top flap. I used Fidlock buckles for the top and piping sternum straps, and Fidlock winch dials to add side compression.

I went through a lot of prototyping and testing with this design and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out!

Hey guys,

I finished my first project a few days ago. I'm going to use it for a section hike of the GR10 this summer. I wanted to make a very simple and light pack made for walking all day.

I made my own pattern for the body, I traced the dimensions of my two backpacks I have and adjusted it for my needs. It tapers a lot to the bottom, so as my food disappears, the backpack stays tight, the extension collar isn't as long as I wanted but it'll work. More ultralight I guess lol. For the fabric I used recycled 70D diamond ripstop nylon with a UTS-coating.

For the straps I took inspiration from nashville packs since I've heard their supposed to be the most comfortable, but I wanted more space in the strap pockets, so I made em a little more vest like. I used their way for measuring the strap size and it worked good. I used the method of attaching the straps to the body with an O-ring which I got from the pa'lante joey straps. Mine don't have the perfect angle for my body shape but still very comfortable. I used gossamer gear 8th inch foam, 3d mesh and the ripstop nylon.

Large front mesh pocket, bottom pocket, shoulder strap pockets that fit 600ml softflasks and small items like sunscreen, sunglasses, soap, spoon and toilet paper. Side pockets that fit one 1l bottle my cold soaking jar and trekking poles. I wanted to make adjustable side compression straps for holding my trekking poles in place but decided on a non adjustable 10mm elastic instead for simplicity and less difficulty sewing. I also a added a sleeve for three sections of a thinlight pad.

I used an old electric sewing machine from my grandma. I had no sewing experience less than a month ago, but this was good exposure therapy :D. I learned alot. I used Gütermann tera 80 thread for everything with a microtex 70 and 80 needle.

I estimate it has 25l fully rolled down and maybe close to 35l filled to the brim. Finished weight is 326g.

This is everything I used:

https://www.extremtextil.de/netzstoff-elastisch-fein-und-leicht-180g-qm/72974.SW

https://www.extremtextil.de/ring-25mm-edelstahl/70665

https://www.extremtextil.de/elastisches-band-10mm/70222.SW

https://www.extremtextil.de/gurtband-polyamid-15mm/70283.SW

https://www.extremtextil.de/blitzverschluss-zum-einseitigen-faedeln-15mm-buddy-lion/72840

https://www.extremtextil.de/leiterschnalle-15mm-flach/70219

https://www.extremtextil.de/3d-netzgewebe-2-7mm-unelastisch-400g-qm-kleinmenge-schwarz/73195

https://www.extremtextil.de/diamond-ripstop-nylon-robic-ocean-recycling-70den-uts-beschichtet-100g-qm/73078.WEI

https://www.extremtextil.de/kanteneinfassband-ripsband-polyester-15mm/70447.SW

https://www.extremtextil.de/kanteneinfassband-ripsband-polyester-20mm/70398.SW

https://www.extremtextil.de/kanteneinfassband-ripsband-polyester-10mm/70473.SW

https://www.extremtextil.de/magnet-zum-einnaehen-1-paar-oe-12mm-haltekraft-1-2kg/73064

If you have any questions or would like pictures of specific things I could add them afterwards.

No clue if he made this but I really hope he did!

Has anybody tried it? I'm -thisclose- to getting one. How on earth do they get that closed loop of paracord for the handle??

I couldn't be happier! Thanks Prickly Gorse! https://www.myogtutorials.com/darted-hip-pack/

This was my best attempt at trying to tone down how many colors and patterns I used-ha!

Materials used:

• Waxed Duck Canvas (color: terracotta)
• Quilting Cotton (multicolor stripes)
• Ripstop (color: grey/green)
• VX21 X-Pac (color: coyote)
• Nylon Webbing (blue stripes)
• Gutterman TERA 80 100% Polyester Thread

Sewn on a Juki F600

Picture Description: a multicolored handmade hip pack. It's big enough to hold a book, uses a variety of fabric textures and has two zipper pockets. There's a green tag inside that says "quality shit".

I bought this bouldering mat very cheap but I’m not sure how I’d go about fixing this strap? Any help would be much appreciated!

I’m seeking suggestions on how to re-cover or repair this kayak seat.

Was loaned a kayak long-term and told I could do whatever I like with the seat.

The original outer plastic-like coating was mostly peeled off, and a couple of extra EVA foam sheets were duct taped down over it (1st pic).

I removed the seat to clean it and investigate how to repair or fix it better. It appears to be (thermo?) molded EVA foam (2nd pic, bottom of seat), with a fabric cover, that had the original vinyl-like coating glued onto it (3rd pic).

Is there a glue fabric combination that could be used to recover it?

Alternatively, would it be a bad idea to cover it with overlapping 4” strips of Gorilla Waterproof tape, making sure to press it down into the contours of the seat?

I’m in the process of recreating a bunch of motorcycle bags my friend lent me.

Anyone have an idea as to where I might find these little metal clips?