r/skoolies

155k miles - $15k OBO. Currently based in Minneapolis, MN. Negotiable on traveling to complete sale

We can provide all maintenance records. We’ve owned for 3 years, lived in full time for over a year. Work we’ve done/had done includes: New fuel pump, All new tires, New shocks, New battery, New starter and connected wires, Updated brake system, New exhaust pipe, Rust Undercoating, Regular oil changes every 5,000 miles

Oil just changed and AC charged up July 2026

Interior / RV Features:
Queen size bed (8” mattress included)
Desk with space for duel monitor setup
Rust treated and wool/foam board insulation
Treated butcher block counter + ample cabinet and closet space
30 gallon freshwater tank and mounted 21 gallon gray water tank
Ladder and bike rack
Real front door
Dry flush toilet
Camping stove with propane canisters
Starlink internet hardware

All interior build work was completed by us. This bus is fully built out, and has been livable for us for over a year, but a couple notes:
- We homemade a rear Dutch double door, it likely needs a little bit of work, but we’re leaving that in case the next owner wants to permanently remove the door or has a different vision for the rear set up
- We have not finished the electrical setup. All components listed below are included and brand new, but we got by on the road with our Jackery and battery powered lighting that is included.

Electrical components (including Renogy 12V 200Ah lithium LiFePO4 battery, Renogy 1500W inverter, Renogy DC to DC charger, Blue Sea Systems 12 circuit fuse box and extra fuses, lithium battery charger, bus bars, port plug, Shurflo electric water pump, 12V 3.3 cubic ft fridge, fans, clear source RV water filter system) will come with the sale, none of them have been used, some are set up, many are still in box.

We bought this skoolie (named Tessie) in 2023, lovingly built her out, and drove her all around the country. We’re sad to see her go, but now that we aren’t full-time bus-lifers anymore we are planning to downsize to a small van. It’s important to us that she goes to a good owner who will love her the same way we have. She’s ready to be lived out of full time if you’re rushing to get out there, or also a canvas for you to make your own home and build out further before setting sail!

Reddit limited me to 20 photos. Happy to provide more, and some videos, if you are interested!

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I'm curious about using a 12V air conditioning system versus a 120V mini split. I'm thinking that going from the 12V solar batteries to an inverter to a 120VAC mini split would be less efficient than just running a 12V air conditioner. Of course the 12V would require thicker wire. Am I overlooking something? Can anyone give ride reports for such a system?

I’m having a power loss, https://www.reddit.com/r/Diesel/comments/1uc073j/73_18ft_box_truck_climbing_hill_struggling_what/

I was going to change fuel filter, this is the first time I open dog house cover. I’m not very handy at fixing cars.

4 things I noticed not right

1. It has lots of soot on the walls, on right side. Maybe it’s from the fire last time transmission overheated? I want to clean it up, wash it off and see it came back.
2. Very greasy, black oil everywhere, I want to clean it(maybe spare some degreaser then power wash it?), before any repair.
3. Turbo cover is missing(blue lined), probably not important
4. The supporting bar(P4) for the resonator, is broken. Probably not important either.
5. Bottom side of the turbo, has some grease on it.P5

Other than replace fuel filter, I will also need to check the fuel sending unit, it can clog up too. I will also install a Glowshift fuel pressure gauge on the fuel bowl.

So my cab has multiple "removable" panels, for the steering/pedals, shifter, ebrake (which they had all jacked up) and doghouse. They are all being removed so I can clean, scuff and paint it with the platinum. At the same time I plan on digging out a bunch of cracked seam sealer and replacing it with the dynatron 550 over top of the encapsultaor.

So what should be used to seal theses panels down to the platinum?

I dont need to topcoat the platinum correct?

Will be laying down crapazon siless max and 3 in 1 on top of it with a final covering of one lonseals marine flooring, just not quite sure on which one yet waiting one samples.

Any tips or tricks I am welcome to hear

Former Georgia bus, bottom is rust free, has stock under storage
Only has 45k miles
Engine: Cummins 8.3 rear engine
Trans: Allison MD3060
Body is 33 feet in length
It's surprisingly easy to drive this thing, and has alot of power (once you get past the turbo lag) I have driven it loaded and unloaded, seems to get 8 MPG regardless, has a 60 gallon tank, I have never driven it in the winter time up here

I know its a pretty rare bus, i'm not sure what is a good price to ask for it, I am open to offers

feel free to message me if you have any questions

It’ll take some modding, but I think it’ll work out.

Hello all, well I finally got her! She just needs a name. And a build out. And a paint job. And insurance. And...

the good: 7.3 powerstroke

the bad: this truck motor is in a van (short bus) and you know what that means. In terms of access, with the hood open I feel like Helen Keller.

Has anyone pulled off this job successfully?

I've seen many instructions out there, but they are all for trucks; probably OBS and NBS F250/F350.

Not vans.

If you've got any tips, let me know.

Deciding between seal kit from dieselorings or riffraffdiesel, just to get it fixed cheap ASAP before potentially more expensive conversion kit to returnless for higher fuel pressure later on ( ~$50-100 vs. ~$400)

I did open the doghouse to look, but that's the back of the motor. And the motor is longer than my arm, with not much vertical room in the compartment, and a bunch of stuff in the way along the way to the fuel bowl.

I heard one person say remove the turbo. But that is at the back of the motor, and given the above, doesn't sound like it makes sense. Not to mention the fuel bowl is kind of almost at the front of the motor.

For illustrative purposes I have googled a 7.3 van engine bay pic and as you can see; can't see shit. Yes the airbox does come out with about 5 bolts but that doesn't really change anything.

I am starting a project for our 32' CE300. 18" roof raise. 4 kids, 1 wife, 2 dogs. Ill add a folding seat up front as well, but couldnt find a suitable one in sketchup. Our conversion is going to be oriented toward camping more so than full time living. We typically only camp in moderate climate and cook outside 95% of the time. We basically only sleep in our camper now. Ive added a fridge, sink/counter, and as much storage as I can fit. No TV's, no stove, no microwave. The wheel wells are going to pose a problem for the bathroom. Still working on a solution for that. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Brake calipers partially seized on the way home but we made it. New tires, new batteries, fluids all looked and smelled brand new. Full tank of fuel. Intake was removed but it fired right up. Stayed around 35mph the whole ride(15 miles). There was knock noise(maybe??) at idle. I’m new to diesels so I’m not sure if it sounds normal or not.

Has anyone done this? Closest thing I can think of is a Snap On tool truck that has toolboxes still on casters. I have no idea how they’re secured.

I was thinking of unbolting the casters on mine and maybe dropping them down with a dolly, so they sit flat to distribute load and have friction grip.

I’ve got a 56x22” and 34x23”. About waist height.

It’s a short bus E350. An ugly steel partition might fit but they’re ugly.

I was gonna put them ahead of the wheel wells, with a cargo bar in between to prevent falling over. Until I come up with a better solution to free hallway space.

I have a lot of tools in storage. The new-to-me bus needs work. Friends always hit me up to work on their car.

I have furniture I don’t need inside. I figure I should put toolboxes inside and get to wrenching.

2 concerns at this point are:

1. If someone else runs a red light causing me to T-bone them in a frontal impact collision, that could send my boxes with their weight and tools flying forward into me.
2. They’ll probably rattle loud. I guess I’ll make foam cutouts or something.

Here is an example. The bus needs power steering fluid flush, brake flush, rear diff service, fuel bowl reseal, and likely more. I figure it’s better to have my things inside and accessible (tools, fluids, sealants) rather than buried in storage where access is ridiculous.

1996 Ford E350 7.3 Diesel powerstroke, with (allegedly, the instrument cluster/odometer had to be replaced so taking the seller at their word) 195k kms on it.

Details in the 3rd pic.

It's always been a dream of mine to get into van life, but I might start by using this as a recreational vehicle until I'm ready (if ever) to take the plunge. I like that it's built out already so I wouldn't have to do it from scratch, I'm not very experienced with building but would be willing to learn if I do have to start with less. In highschool I ripped out the back rows of seats in my GMC Safari and made a very basic diy camping setup which was a blast.

After six years of living in a forty footer I’m downsizing. It will be nice to be able to park almost anywhere.
I found my dream Shorty.
‘04 Express 3500 Collins body, with 32,000 miles.
I’ll be selling the big bus soon.

We're trying to remove the center aisle, but most of the screws are corroded to the point that the bit cannot make contact. How do I go about this? I have access to most tools. Talk to me like Im five. Like, if I should use an angle grinder, where do I start the blade ect.

Thank you so much!!