u/Arkaium

I popped it in on the spool and set it for 5 hours at 60°C.

QUESTION: I probably should have asked/checked sooner, but there’s no risk to the spool melting, is there? If I have a PLA silica bead inner spool thingy in the middle, would PLA warp at 60°c or could I put it in too? Seems like a convenient way to dry out some silica beads

UPDATE: to be clear, I did NOT put the PLA inner spool bead holder in. It’s just the PETG on its stock spool. But I wasn’t sure if I need to worry about the little sticker label, or the cardboard, etc

SOLVED: Seems it’s a BESTA after all, made in late 2012 in Italy, and likely able to carry more than the current models. I may not get definitive proof as exact year/variant manuals don’t seem super easy to find but their own assembly guide for BESTA just a few years ago says 110lbs.

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I bought it 13 years ago and on Monday I’m getting a new 75” Bravia 9 II delivered and it’s a HEAVY TV, up to 100 lbs with the stand potentially. It used to have a 60-80 lbs Panasonic plasma on it without issue but suddenly I’m freaking out based on all the Bestas (which look similar but not quite?) maxing out at 66lbs.

I wish I’d kept the documentation but I can’t find it.

A defining characteristics is the integrated wire management railing in the back (which I never use and added some 3d printed organizers to the top of instead).

It’s a birch effect (not veneer) so it’s never yellowed.

Pardon the mess, I’ve been rewiring/prepping.

I found the MKII revision of the Boxy Pixel shells remarkably easy to mod into, probably because of how little time I needed to spend trying to harvest ribbon cables or anything but the screen, main board, and wheel (for one of them, the aluminum one has an aftermarket one). Fit is great, tolerances great. No rattling. The glass inserts are really good, the black is fingerprint smudge city but easy to clean and don’t have to deal with scratched plastic like all these other cheap after market front plates entail.

I haven’t tested Bluetooth, I’m sure it’s ok. He included an adhesive BT antenna that can likely easily be added to the back of the rear glass, and connects to his expansion board, but I’m not really that concerned with BT. The most important part for me was clean audio and they both sound great in that regard.

The brass shell comes with a couple warnings. If you intend to handle it a LOT, note that the brass is likely ever so slightly leaded, so you’ll want to immediately clear protect the brass (which means no tarnish, part of the fun of brass imo). The other warning is conductivity. Luckily with kapton tape that is largely managed, but I did find that the slider buttons have some phantom inputs, mainly the hold, which I think is a conductivity thing, but short of dipping the sliders in clear protect, I don’t know how I can kapton them. I always intended to dock one of the two, why not make it the heavier one!

I will say, flashing the SD cards were a bitch. Not a Boxy Pixel issue, just a modern Mac issue. My M1 Studio refused to restore either, but luckily I’d bought a 2011 Mini for another purpose and it got the job done with High Sierra 10.13.

Anyways, other than hunting down a backup 5.5 replacement screen (one of the two I harvested turned out to be cracked but at least it’s a hairline thing and you can barely see it), my iPod modding journey is complete.

This time the first few layers seemed to adhere perfectly, and then all of a sudden I look back at the camera view and it's doing these spires and clearly it's about to fail.

This print HAS to be PETG because it'll be exposed to the sun and the PLA I've tried to date warps so fast but what can I do? Is there a flow rate or temp toggle to try? This is Bambu's own PETG basic in black.

I've had many perfectly fine PETG prints, but not with the 0.4 hardened tip which I installed a few weeks ago. Everything else has printed perfectly in PLA.

Please help!

I can’t twist it on any more and don’t want to ruin any threads but I wasn’t sure if it was supposed to have any more curvature or not. This is the 100+. Thank you!

Hi all, I’m currently kicking myself for buying a 77” C6H from LG direct. Their shitty fulfillment company LX Pantos damaged the screen while setting it up. Now I have to wait a while for a replacement, and the time to think has made me wonder whether this is all wrong. I hate how big this thing is, how fragile it is. I hate that it can almost certainly never be moved safely again. I’ve rented the same apartment for 14 years and I’m not sure I’ll be here for another 5. What happens to the TV then? And if a replacement does come it’ll be the same shitty fulfillment, again. Same risk of damage again. And likely harder the second time to get it replaced.

I started looking at USPs. I’ll have to sacrifice 4k 120 based on the current DLP limitation, and I’m not sure how soon I could get a screen for it (and understand it’s mediocre on a wall), but I could move it myself, it could easily be relocated, and I think my setup would take it well.

My questions are around the below points, advice appreciated:

- Can the projectors typically do true 24p for movies? Do I need to buy a VRR one for that?

- Is latency tolerable for gaming? Does VRR work well for anyone who’s tested it with a PS5?

- I usually keep the blinds closed, but during the day can I expect it to be viewable? If I don’t have a screen at first, will it be unwatchable (and I don’t mean in a purist sense)

- Hisense at the $3500 price point looks like the best match for my needs, but I also saw there’s an AWOL one coming this year that’s more expensive but maybe even more feature rich? Is that a known brand?

I’ve spent the past couple hours doing searches and AI prompts but I’d like to hear from some real peeps if possible.

Thank you!

I think the black glass front and back is a nice improvement over the previous design he had. I will go clear front on the silver aluminum one I bought.

The tolerances are good. No real complaint. EDIT: the rear button didn’t depress no matter what I did last night. I slept on it and woke up determined to crack it. Sent him a couple more emails but then I realized I filming a video where I tried to push the button straight down on the switch that it’s not a case tolerance issue so much as the switch surface side is a hair too concave. I stacked two THIN pieces of adhesive paper and it works fine now. The glass pieces I was worried would have gaps, I was worried there’d be ratting when the iPod is shaken, but it all feels good.

EDIT: the battery seemed to make a clicking noise sometimes, I was worried there was a short and was waiting for Boxy to tell me where to add kapton tape (and it still might be a good idea) but I also removed the BT antenna which I hadn’t actually taped down and I think maybe that was actually causing the short by whatever it was touching, because it seemed to come and go and that’s the only thing that could move. I did reseat all the ribbon cables too. Seems fine.

UPDATE: my full library synced overnight and it’s playing now and sounds great. No buzzing. Feels like the old days.

Someone asked how much it weighs fully assembled: 246g

Both on TV apps and on hdmi 1, Apple TV.

Is it cooked?

UPDATE: the flickering stopped, now it just looks like those rows are dead, but they come and go. I wouldn’t be surprised if it flickers again, there definitely seems to be something wrong with those bottom couple pixel rows:

https://imgur.com/a/NlhGRnQ

I’ve already contacted LG about a replacement.

UPDATE 2: I got up real close and realized that the tip of the corner is actually cracked. I do think this likely happened when they installed the stand at a 90 degree angle (and it started again at that corner):

https://imgur.com/a/LdLc1I0

I have to spend time adjusting color, it’s amazing how perfect my old ST60 plasma was out of the box. But it’s nice and big and bright and I’m sure it’ll be good as long as it lasts.

Out of curiosity does anyone else here use a 2nd gen Apple TV 4K? The app transitions are so jerky at 4K, I’m thinking maybe it needs to be upgraded?

Unfortunately all my cable matters 4k cables don’t come until Saturday and I’m not sure I have any other true 2.1b ones so the wait to plug in my ps5 pro will be rough.

UPDATE: I’ll have to return it, a couple rows of flashing then dead pixels appeared and I realized after taking a light to it that the corner was cracked:

https://imgur.com/a/LdLc1I0

Not sure when I’ll have time to assemble and still hoping he’ll post an updated video guide but the tolerances and details seem exceptional to my eye. Excited to get one of this revised design without the back with that clear circle. A solid black glass back will look sharp.

Hi all,

For many years I was teased for still being on a 1080p plasma, but it was the legendary ST60 and it had great colors and black levels and got the job done.

With some concern about the price of everything going up and being able to get a great partner discount + memorial 10% on the C6H 77” (something like $26xx shipped), I’m finally taking the plunge.

The one thing I’m struggling to figure out are base dimensions for the incoming TV. I want to clear as much room as needed for the free stand setup, but it’ll be a bit tight. It seems like the base is MUCH smaller than my current plasma, which is amazing. I think I have the width and height space, but I was hoping I could push my APC and PS5 behind the TV.

Can someone help me figure out where the TV sits within the 10” or so width of the stand? (That’s the measurement I’m seeing online. The APC and NAS at the far left I think will fit if I push them back. The PS5 might need to be turned 90° but that too should fit. The stuff in the front will have to go, but I’m not too worried about that.

It’s the how close to the front of the stand measurement that’ll make the biggest difference for me, if anyone can point me to that or has done that measuring already.

Thanks, excited!

Everyone tells me my girl is cuter with a fluffy face. I think so too, she looks like a stuffed animal and it makes her more expressive. That said, in terms of hygiene, in terms of her sniff clarity, in terms of her fur curliness and how it can blow back into her eyes when longer, and in terms of her temp when it’s hot out, shaved face just makes so much more sense.

I’m going to do it this summer for sure, just debating if we do it today or in 5-6 weeks.

It has been over two decades since I saw ROTK in a theater setting and I’m so glad I waited for the live symphony experience.

I’d seen some people complain about the audience cheering too much but I thought they only made noise at appropriate times, maybe once or twice it was a bit silly but for the most part it added to the experience. Unbelievable work by the performers and singers, I was in awe of how well it all synced and how right it felt.

The only incontrovertible truths I left with are that the theatrical cut really does pale to the extended for ROTK, I missed the Saruman, Mountain of the Dead, and intro to the black gate sequences the most, but also related to that, that my aging posterior cannot handle 3.5 hours as comfortably as it used to, so I get why it couldn’t be 4.25 hours.

Got the dark base with lots of add-ons. Will find time tonight to put these on my silver Hippo TKL. Overall seem close enough to the renders to me, but not sure if the fiber glass mix is actually going to resist shine any better than any other caps. Packaging was good but I also don’t know that I can keep them in these trays as I have a ton of JTK trays and want everything to stack: