Recently my y button started working intermittently. Took the console apart just now, cleaned the membrane, physical button, and the pad on the board, and it's still doing the same thing. I can't see any kind of damage on the board, I haven't dropped it or anything. Is the pad on the board just going bad?
Last night I noticed that my Y button was only registering presses every so often, or would sometimes register a double press when I used it. I've just downloaded 3ds-test and sure enough, the Y button isn't registering presses as it should. The console itself hasn't been dropped, and the other buttons around it are working fine, so my assumption is that the membrane is still intact and that dust or something has somehow found it's way under the button.
Is my only option to disassemble the console and check? I normally wouldn't care to do a bit of surgery on it, but the ifixit guide I found said there's 8 ribbon cables I'll need to detach, and I'm not good with them. I've already tried to brush the button with 99.9% isopropyl alcohol, but so far no dice.
Last night I noticed that my Y button was only registering presses every so often, or would sometimes register a double press when I used it. I've just downloaded 3ds-test and sure enough, the Y button isn't registering presses as it should. The console itself hasn't been dropped, and the other buttons around it are working fine, so my assumption is that the membrane is still intact and that dust or something has somehow found it's way under the button.
Is my only option to disassemble the console and check? I normally wouldn't care to do a bit of surgery on it, but the ifixit guide I found said there's 8 ribbon cables I'll need to detach, and I'm not good with them. I've already tried to brush the button with 99.9% isopropyl alcohol, but so far no dice.
It's certainly seen better days, I used it in my deck as a kid, but here's my DDS-001 Blue Eyes. I used to play the game a lot too.
I wasn't necessarily sure how to title this, but I just wanted to share my experience so far as someone who is unemployed here.
Some background to myself, I have a B.Sc. in physics, a M.Sc. in material science, have C1 German, dual citizenship between the US and Germany, and have roughly 10 years of work experience. In August of 2024, I lost my job in the automotive industry due to the current crisis going on.
Since then, I've had one full year on Arbeitslosengeld I, and since January of this year I've been receiving Bürgergeld. During my time on ABG1 I received a total of 14 job recommendations, 5 of which were Duale Studium positions at Bosch. In total, I've sent roughly 1200 applications (give or take) and while I have received three offers, all of them had contracts that were designed to take advantage of the employee. For example, two of them were from a company that had additional clauses that allowed the employer to take away the bonus that was earned through the consulting (Arbeitnehmerüberlassung) work at any time and needing no reason, which equaled one-third of the yearly salary.
As many companies are shifting to the defense industry, I have been told numerous times by hiring managers that due to my status as a US citizen, my applications will not be considered as many companies do not wish to deal with the potential geopolitical issues that come with hiring an American. Of course, this was never the official reason for a rejection, nor was it ever officially documented in writing, only word of mouth.
During this time, I've been taking numerous courses online in various IT topics, from ISTQB to programming courses, however in searching for jobs in these fields, I find that they are overrun with applicants, so the chances of my own application being noticed are slim.
Upon receiving Bürgergeld, I was told that my rent without utilities is over the limit for a single person in the city I live in, and was given a one year grace period where it will be paid. After which, I was told that I was responsible for making up the difference between what I was earning and the cost of my rent. That will occur in December of this year.
If you've made it this far, I really appreciate you reading this. I'm not trying to complain about my current position, rather I want to put this out there for others who might be in a similar rough spot.
A number of years ago I purchased a second hand 1000 model psp. When I booted it up it was on a much earlier software version, 2 something iirc, and when I tried to update it I could only get it to 6.20 and nothing further. So i put it out of my head.
Recently I tried to see if I could find out why it wouldn't update. So far I've learned that the previous owner probably jail broke it. I didn't think that would be a huge issue, but somehow nothing I do to update it works. I've tried a new memory stick, downloading the update via the Internet and directly from the memory stick, new cables, and still nothing.
I looked up the error code I'm getting and I think it has something to do with the expected registry code of the system being incorrect. I tried to install cfw to change it, but so far no luck. The only other thing that I've read that can fix the issue is using a Pandora battery, and I can neither purchase one nor create one myself (lack of tools/expertise).
My question to you all is, is there anything else I can try so that I can update the system to the most recent software version?
This just arrived today and already I am incredibly satisfied with it. Tried a few games out (Pokemon White, Chrono Trigger and Trauma Center) and man do those games pop.
Not to mention this console is in exceptionally good condition for around $100. There were some scratches on the touchscreen but nothing a screen protector couldn't solve.
I already know that DA is on the list of legit batch identifiers, but I'm curious as to what the dot next to it means. I've never seen something like that before
Once more, with feeling!
Again, apologies for the second post. Was able to get a pic of the back without a light behind it
Need some verification on this copy of Pokemon Black. I'm almost certain it's legit, but just want to be sure
Recently I swapped the OEM battery in my DS Lite with a 1200 mAh one from Ostent. After the swap, I noticed that the battery door doesn't fit as snugly as when the original was installed, and isn't flush with the back of the console, but figured it could be attributed to the extra capacity. When playing, I pressed the on the upper left-hand corner of the touch screen (above the battery), and the console immediately shut down. I tried this a couple more times, and each time the console would power down afterwards. After taking the new battery out and putting it back in, I've noticed that this no longer happens.
Now to the point, I'm considering returning the battery and getting a 1000 mAh one instead. Would that just be a waste of time? From what I can find online, the extra performance from the larger capacity battery is practically negligible, maybe a few minutes at best. But I'm mostly "concerned" about the battery cover no longer sitting flush with the housing.