I saw that there is a new gym at the newly opened Lookout Apartments. Has anyone been there yet? How does it compare to the rec center? Is there anywhere to shower there or is it just the gym equipment?
I was wondering if there are any safe(ish) spots on campus to park a bicycle during the day and into the early evening? I have a nicer hybrid bicycle (worth maybe $500 on the used market) and will be commuting to campus every day. I already have a U-lock and a cable to lock my front wheel. I saw that there are storage lockers but those are only for folks living on campus as far as I can tell.
I'm looking at purchasing a 2-channel Viofo A229 Plus dash cam (link here). It's a 2k resolution front and rear cam combination and I would hardwire the cameras using their kit. Has anyone done this successfully with their 4th gen? I don't see why this would be a challenge at all for me, but I wanted to check ahead of time in case there are any issues that I don't foresee right now. I've seen some threads on other 4th gen forums about 3D printing a mount for the rear camera and things like that and I feel comfortable fabricating my own mount.
Also, any recommendations for how to cleanly run the cable up to the front dash cam? I am thinking about following the contour of the windshield but I'm not sure if there are good organization clips available to make that happen.
New to framing and construction-- I'm planning out my soffits now as I put the finishing touches on an 8'x16' gable shed with a vented attic space. I included some images showing what I am thinking of doing. I was going to put on some 1x6 fascia over the 2x6 subfascia and let it hang down about 3/8". Then I was going to rip some 4'x8' sheets of 3/8" plywood down to 12" and run that between the subfascia and 2x2 material running the length of the eave. I'd cut in some openings for an air vent like this every few feet and add a 12"x12" gable vent on both gable ends. I'd do birdboxes at the transitions between eave and rake.
I've also included a picture of the rafter/wall interface. It's not great quality but I'm not at the jobsite to take a better picture.
For cost reasons, I'm considering using a mix of eastern white pine (a 1x6x8' board like this from Menards or a local supplier) and northern white cedar (also known as arborvitae, this is available to me locally). I was thinking of using the pine on the walls and northern white cedar for the ceiling and benches due to the risk of hot pine sap dripping down or contacting a bather. I'd save a little over $1000 with this modification and I also really like the smell of pine and pine sap.
I am already planning on using pine for the changing room cladding. I think it'd be obvious to a woodworker or sauna enthusiast that there are different wood species in the hot room but I'm not sure I really care. Any concerns this group would have with this decision?
For framing reasons, it’d be a lot easier for me to have my ceiling joists at 24” on center than anything else. I was just wondering if this could be an issue with installing 1x tongue and groove cedar paneling? Is that too much of an unsupported span between nails?
I'm building an 8'x8'x8' (512 cu. ft) hot room with insulated walls and ceiling. There will be a 18"x48" transom window towards the ceiling. I'd like to use a Nippa stove but there are two models I'm between (link to stoves here). The WB-18 is shown as sufficient for up to 525 cu. ft, and the larger size WB-21 is shown as sufficient for up to 775 cu. ft. According to the website, "Heating estimates are based on bringing an insulated sauna to approximately 220°F in 60–90 minutes, depending on exterior temperature." I don't plan on having my sauna that hot very often, to be honest, probably closer to 180-190 F on the hotter end.
I feel like considering that I have a transom window and I'm already at the upper end of the WB-18's heating capacity even without the window, I should just upgrade to the WB-21. What do you all think of this? Any concerns in doing that?
I’m looking at living near North Table Mountain and I wanted to know if this route would be a good option to commute by bicycle to the Mines campus. This image is from the Ralston Creek Trail map and the route is marked “out of city-equestrian”. Google Maps shows a dirt double-track trail. Would the trail be rideable on a road or hybrid bike with no suspension? I’d follow this route to Clear Creek Trail to get into downtown Golden.
Just want to make sure this would be a reasonable bike commute before finalizing my living plans.
Building an 8’x16’ shed right now and I can’t figure out if this wall is “good enough” plumb or not. I’m measuring about 4 feet up the wall on both sides. It’s been tricky getting this into place so far working solo, and I’d like to know if I’m chasing too much of perfection here.
This is one of the 8’ long walls and will serve as the reference wall from which all the other walls will be somewhat connected to (if that makes sense). I worry that any amount of non-plumb here will affect the adjoining walls too much.
I'm planning out my bench heights and transom window location for an 8x8x8' wood-fired hot room in an 8'x16' shed. How does this look? The benches will be 2x4 ceder held in by cleats in the wall. I'm mostly concerned here with making sure I've got the right distance from the ceiling to my top bench. It will have 3/4" T&G paneling everywhere but it's not shown in the sketch or reflected in my calculations. I'm cool being off by 3/4" or 1 1/2" for these dimensions. Just need something to get me in the ballpark. There will be a Nippa WB18 in there as well, it's just not sketched. Feet will be a little over 6" above the stones.
I would like to use a 16"x48" transom window and I've got that situated with the top sitting 5" above "eye level" (using a reasonable guess for average bather eye level).
How does this look to you all? Is it somewhat in the ballpark?
I am a DIYer building an 8x16 shed (to be turned into a sauna) and I would like to add a transom window opposite the wall where I would be sitting in the sauna. I have a few different options that I'm evaluating for window manufacturers and I'm not totally locked down on a size yet or where exactly I want the sill to be. I'd love to just finish putting up the walls with 16" O.C. studs, build my roof, housewrap the whole thing to get it weatherproof ASAP, and then rough in a window opening after the fact. I've got a free weekend this week to finish the walls and build the roof and won't have my window selected by then and I just want to keep this project moving along.
My AI chatbot assures me that roughing in a window opening after raising the walls and installing the roof is trivial, but I wanted to double check with actual people first. The window will be centered in an 8ft wall section (broke them up to make it easier to lift solo) along the load-bearing 16ft wall. I plan on adding some support studs while I cut into any studs in the way, and then just adding the kings, jacks, cripples, etc as normal. Then I'll cut out the Tyvek and sheathing with a circular saw after the fact. Any issues with this approach? Is this a common thing to do?
I'm building a Trumpkin style sauna and I would like to have a wide picture window opposite of the main bench. I don't really have a good place in the layout for a used double-hung window I picked up a few weeks ago (it's a wood window and would have to be somewhat close to the heater/stove pipe which I don't love) so I'm considering skipping it entirely and just relying on opening my vents all the way after finishing a session. Anyone seeing any problems with this? It's an 8x8x8' hot room with a wood-fired heater. It's adjacent to a changing room of the same size with a large casement window that could allow some cross-breeze as well.
Just picked up this framing nailer and cannot get the pusher to lock back for the life of me. The old Banks nailer I had was intuitive but following the instructions in the manual (pull it back until the pawl catches it) has not been helpful.
Would it look strange if I had southern yellow pine (or whatever is sold at Home Depot) as the door material to my sauna (interior door from changing room to hot room) if everything else in the sauna and changing room is Northern White Cedar? I’m thinking I could do a flame/char finish on the door if it looks strange next to cedar T&G on the walls and floor.
I’ve got a few days away from my build site and don’t have the cedar yet but thought this would be a good task to complete while I’m away from building.
I got this window cheap off of Marketplace but the frame around it is a little strange. The vertical frame pieces don’t line up flush with the horizontal frame pieces. What should I be measuring here to figure out what to frame the rough opening at? Worried that if I frame for the vertical dimension with those long vertical 1x pieces, there might be a larger gap between the top/bottom of the window and the RO. This window will be used in a sauna so I’d like to minimize drafts.
I’ve spent a while trying to get these two walls to line up and this is about as good as I can get. It’s maybe a little over a quarter of an inch gap maximum.
Putting the level on either wall tells me that they’re fairly level, but I just want to know if this is “good enough” or if I need to keep messing with the wall fit. I’m totally solo so getting these heavy walls to move around isn’t easy.
I’m building an 8x8 hot room in my cabin sauna with a ceiling around 8ft tall. My heater will be 28” tall (Nippa WB-18). Are there any good standards on where to place the benches for optimal hot zone seating but to avoid any very large “steps” between the levels? I figure the optimal bench heights (open to doing two, three, or either one with a little movable stepstool on the bottom) have long been figured out.
I scavenged this 30”x30“ window (assuming that it’s supposed to be measured from the widest point, which is the solid white trim area near where the tape measure starts in the last photo) but it seems pretty deep. Likely meant to work for a 2x6 wall I imagine? Is there a way for this to fit into a 2x4 wall without looking super weird? I have 1/2“ OSB sheathing and 3/4” interior tongue and groove paneling.
As you can see in the image, the post cap placement will interfere with a joist hanger here. Can I just run a 4x4 post across here and do 6” HeadLok screws in four places into the end grain (putting the screw in direct shear) on each side? I know the moment of inertia on a 4x4 isn’t too great—I could also add two additional joists right next to it where the post cap doesn’t interfere to help the 4x4 out a bit.
I’ve been messing with this for the last hour and am not sure what to do. This second 2x8x16’ bandboard will not sit flush with the other one. It’s bearing fully on the post cap and the 4x4 posts are level. I just measured the second bandboard and it’s at 7 1/2” width while the other one (and all my other 2x8s that I’ve framed the deck floor with) are at around 7 1/4”. It’s clear that this isn’t lining up due to the difference in thickness and the gap at the ends in the pictures is about 1/4”.
Can I just nail this in and then use a block plane to plane it down to flush? Getting another 16 ft board is not an option here.
